Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter OR rim adapter??
#1
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Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter OR rim adapter??
Just bought a new low-budget winter commuter (Giant Escape Disc). Wheels come with Schrader-valve rims and tubes. My other bike has Presta valve stems. My CO2 cartridge inflators only work with Presta.
So should I:
1. Buy a Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter that I screw on the Schrader valve stem when I need to re-inflate the tube after a flat repair...
OR
2. Convert my wheel rims to smaller Presta-size holes using a different adapter (it inserts into the larger Schrader-specific hole in the rim and makes it smaller for the Presta valve stem to fit snugly) and then switch to presto valve tubes, just like my other bike?
Buying a whole new wheel-set that is better and lighter (and has Presta valves rims) would be my preference, but it'll cost a whole lot more and I can't really justify the expense right now.
So should I:
1. Buy a Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter that I screw on the Schrader valve stem when I need to re-inflate the tube after a flat repair...
OR
2. Convert my wheel rims to smaller Presta-size holes using a different adapter (it inserts into the larger Schrader-specific hole in the rim and makes it smaller for the Presta valve stem to fit snugly) and then switch to presto valve tubes, just like my other bike?
Buying a whole new wheel-set that is better and lighter (and has Presta valves rims) would be my preference, but it'll cost a whole lot more and I can't really justify the expense right now.
#2
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#2 . Once and done. No need to shout....
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1 if you dont ever plan on changing wheels & is okay buying two different tube styles.
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I hadn't seen a Schrader to Presta valve adapter before. I used the presta to Schrader valve converter and keep one with me on rides. The $10 (looks like each?) cost for the Schrader adapter is too much more than my cost for new tubes for me to consider it over switching to presta. BTW, I had one bike that was converted and I bought the Wheels Manufacturing hole sleeves. I managed to lose one while changing a flat on the road and I continued to ride the bike without it for a couple of years and many miles without ever replacing it.
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Anyway... no need to BOLD.
I say spend the $15 and just buy a new CO2 head for a Schrader valve and call it a day.
Personally, each of my bikes have their own saddle bag since they use different side tubes and I carry a 16g CO2 for my road bike and a 20g for my CX bike.
I say spend the $15 and just buy a new CO2 head for a Schrader valve and call it a day.
Personally, each of my bikes have their own saddle bag since they use different side tubes and I carry a 16g CO2 for my road bike and a 20g for my CX bike.
#8
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Good advice. Thanks.
BTW, bold is fine by me. it's not about need or not need, its about style...
#9
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I hadn't seen a Schrader to Presta valve adapter before. I used the presta to Schrader valve converter and keep one with me on rides. The $10 (looks like each?) cost for the Schrader adapter is too much more than my cost for new tubes for me to consider it over switching to presta. BTW, I had one bike that was converted and I bought the Wheels Manufacturing hole sleeves. I managed to lose one while changing a flat on the road and I continued to ride the bike without it for a couple of years and many miles without ever replacing it.
#10
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#11
Touring Rocks
Use your Presta tubes. Make a spacer by taking a Schrader valve cap, cut off the closed end and slide it over the Presta valve. Run the nut on the Presta valve down over it to hold it in place.
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I’ve used presta for years and just picked up a wheelset with Shrader holes.
There are some knurled presta locknuts that have a shoulder that is supposed to fit into the larger Shrader hole. Just thread them on the presta valve. They are still in the mail, but 10pcs for $10 seemed like a cheap, easy fix.
John
There are some knurled presta locknuts that have a shoulder that is supposed to fit into the larger Shrader hole. Just thread them on the presta valve. They are still in the mail, but 10pcs for $10 seemed like a cheap, easy fix.
John
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I’ve used presta for years and just picked up a wheelset with Shrader holes.
There are some knurled presta locknuts that have a shoulder that is supposed to fit into the larger Shrader hole. Just thread them on the presta valve. They are still in the mail, but 10pcs for $10 seemed like a cheap, easy fix.
John
There are some knurled presta locknuts that have a shoulder that is supposed to fit into the larger Shrader hole. Just thread them on the presta valve. They are still in the mail, but 10pcs for $10 seemed like a cheap, easy fix.
John
I have no idea how well they work, I've never tried running presta tubes in a schrader hole.
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So you're saying that a skinny Presta valve sticking out through a larger Schrader rim hole is no big deal? Maybe not. My only worry would be the side of the valve stem flopping around a bit in the larger hole, but maybe that's not an issue when the tube is fully inflated. Or maybe the pressurized tube pushing itself out and around the valve stem into the hole and outside the rim? Nightmare scenario.
#15
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They make adapters that shim a schrader valve hole down to presta valve hole size. Use one of those. Or, never mind and just use a presta valve in the existing hole. I've done so for over a decade with no failures. Presta/Schrader chucks are almost universal on floor pumps these days, and are available as replacements too - also an option. I've never seen or heard of something you screw onto a schrader valve to convert it to presta, and am having a hard time figuring how it would work in practice.
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1. Buy a Schrader-to-Presta valve adapter that I screw on the Schrader valve stem when I need to re-inflate the tube after a flat repair...
The Wheels Mfg adapter fits well, doesnt rattle, and protects the tube from slicing on the edge of the rim. It also allows for fast tire inflation since you dont need that pump adapter.
There isnt a downside to using it.
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John
#18
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WHY SO MUCH SHOUTING AND BOLD WHAT IS THE POINT?
Seriously folks if you need to use bold to highlight something sure but for your entire text? Really? What next Comic Sans MS or maybe some fire up the old Geocities for some sparkle letters. Make your point as everyone else does no need to shout no need to bold your entire text. It doesn't impress and just looks silly.
If you are commuting just use a dang pump or build up another seatbag with the proper co2 inflator or don't buy bikes with car tire valves.
For $830 you get Altus shifters and a proprietary seatpost gotta love Giant.
Seriously folks if you need to use bold to highlight something sure but for your entire text? Really? What next Comic Sans MS or maybe some fire up the old Geocities for some sparkle letters. Make your point as everyone else does no need to shout no need to bold your entire text. It doesn't impress and just looks silly.
If you are commuting just use a dang pump or build up another seatbag with the proper co2 inflator or don't buy bikes with car tire valves.
For $830 you get Altus shifters and a proprietary seatpost gotta love Giant.
#19
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WHY SO MUCH SHOUTING AND BOLD WHAT IS THE POINT?
Seriously folks if you need to use bold to highlight something sure but for your entire text? Really? What next Comic Sans MS or maybe some fire up the old Geocities for some sparkle letters. Make your point as everyone else does no need to shout no need to bold your entire text. It doesn't impress and just looks silly.
If you are commuting just use a dang pump or build up another seatbag with the proper co2 inflator or don't buy bikes with car tire valves.
For $830 you get Altus shifters and a proprietary seatpost gotta love Giant.
Seriously folks if you need to use bold to highlight something sure but for your entire text? Really? What next Comic Sans MS or maybe some fire up the old Geocities for some sparkle letters. Make your point as everyone else does no need to shout no need to bold your entire text. It doesn't impress and just looks silly.
If you are commuting just use a dang pump or build up another seatbag with the proper co2 inflator or don't buy bikes with car tire valves.
For $830 you get Altus shifters and a proprietary seatpost gotta love Giant.
PS: the angry tone of your post might have been better served with some strategic bolding here and there... for more impact!
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#20
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Relax, dude, it's only a typeface. If a few bold sentences upset you that much...maybe you need to get out more. Maybe go ride your bike; it'll all feel better afterwards.
PS: the angry tone of your post might have been better served with some strategic bolding here and there... for more impact!
PS: the angry tone of your post might have been better served with some strategic bolding here and there... for more impact!
Getting out, was a fun pastime. 2019 held such better days.
Didn't need to bold anything for impact, I especially wouldn't do it over car tire valves on a Giant. Maybe if I had gotten a true dream bike or if I had just eaten a Pacqui One Chip or had a bacchanalian orgy of delight I could see the need for excitement and boldness.
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The first thing I did with all my Dyad rims, is drill the buggers bigger. LOL. It is really hard to find schraeder tubes with a valve at least 40 mm and threaded. The makers seem to think they are only used on single wall steel rims. Pffft.
I think it's funny how the LBSs all have a box of presta to schraeder adapters at the till. Those are for the open end.
I actually used one with a metal valve cap, for a cable stop on my SA setup.
I wouldn't use CO2 in a million years.
I think it's funny how the LBSs all have a box of presta to schraeder adapters at the till. Those are for the open end.
I actually used one with a metal valve cap, for a cable stop on my SA setup.
I wouldn't use CO2 in a million years.
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Just to over-think this a bit...
In my household, a combination of N+1 and multiple cyclists has made it quite impractical to standardize on either valve type. Also, my sense of economy would prohibit me from disposing of a perfectly good tube. I suggest taking it as a given that at some point in your life you will own pump heads for both kinds of valves, so you might as well get a Schrader head now. It might actually be cheaper than new tubes.
When the tubes eventually need to be replaced for whatever reason, then you can convert to Presta if you still care.
In my household, a combination of N+1 and multiple cyclists has made it quite impractical to standardize on either valve type. Also, my sense of economy would prohibit me from disposing of a perfectly good tube. I suggest taking it as a given that at some point in your life you will own pump heads for both kinds of valves, so you might as well get a Schrader head now. It might actually be cheaper than new tubes.
When the tubes eventually need to be replaced for whatever reason, then you can convert to Presta if you still care.
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So you're saying that a skinny Presta valve sticking out through a larger Schrader rim hole is no big deal? Maybe not. My only worry would be the side of the valve stem flopping around a bit in the larger hole, but maybe that's not an issue when the tube is fully inflated. Or maybe the pressurized tube pushing itself out and around the valve stem into the hole and outside the rim? Nightmare scenario.
I'd prefer to have the right tube for the rim hole of course.
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Seriously.... this is still being discussed?