fixed gear build, suggestions about component choices: cranks, pedal system, wheels
#26
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Since the subject moved on to your wheels here's my 2 cents: while I would never have them that wheelset does fit an Aveton Mataro's character and if you use brakes as long as you don't mind the raggedy wear tracks brakeshoes will inevitably carve into the finish I can't see any real functional problem.
But for your sake I sure hope you are getting that frame at a ridiculously low price. Good luck...
Last edited by IAmSam; 01-09-22 at 07:23 AM. Reason: ooops...
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#27
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Carbon fiber rims may have a special brake track bonded to the rim because carbon fiber does not tolerate abrasion well, but aluminum rims are continuous extrusions with no separate track.
https://www.velonews.com/gear/techni...mbos-and-more/
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#28
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Well your build thread has left its short try at pedal discussion behind so I'll be brief - 1-sided road pedals are easier for me to get into than 2-sided MTB pedals by their nature of hanging just right to let you swing your foot in, and I find they give me a more stable foot platform.
Since the subject moved on to your wheels here's my 2 cents: while I would never have them that wheelset does fit an Aveton Mataro's character and if you use brakes as long as you don't mind the raggedy wear tracks brakeshoes will inevitably carve into the finish I can't see any real functional problem.
But for your sake I sure hope you are getting that frame at a ridiculously low price. Good luck...
Since the subject moved on to your wheels here's my 2 cents: while I would never have them that wheelset does fit an Aveton Mataro's character and if you use brakes as long as you don't mind the raggedy wear tracks brakeshoes will inevitably carve into the finish I can't see any real functional problem.
But for your sake I sure hope you are getting that frame at a ridiculously low price. Good luck...
#29
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Carbon fiber rims may have a special brake track bonded to the rim because carbon fiber does not tolerate abrasion well, but aluminum rims are continuous extrusions with no separate track.
https://www.velonews.com/gear/techni...mbos-and-more/
https://www.velonews.com/gear/techni...mbos-and-more/
#30
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#31
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No. 79pmooney is using toeclips AND straps, which work together as a system. They can be used with non-cycling shoes, but work best with cycling shoes with slotted cleats. After the shoe is inserted in the toeclip, the strap is tightened to secure the cleat. When coming to a stop, it is necessary to loosen the strap in order to remove your foot, which can be tricky with a fixed gear because your pedals continue to move. This is what was used universally before the introduction of clipless pedals, and why a clipless pedal system is preferable for general riding.
#32
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Thanks for the replies, as far as I understand you are running traditional slotted cleats with either toeclips or straps? Is it two different systems combined together (like straps or toeclips are "added" to clipless pedals) or traditional slotted cleats are designed to run with straps or toeclips? I'm not any close to your RPMs, but I'm asking if I can use similar approach to find my optimal cleats position. If I recall correctly, I was told by experienced person on this forum, that in the past it was possible to find one's optimal cleats position using clipless pedals with toeclips (not fully fixed cleats are supposed to "place" marks the shoe's sole over time), but I can be mistaken here, please, correct me if I'm wrong.
I do make two changes that make toeclip pickup far easier. (At a light, I have two chances to flip the pedal and get my foot in. After that, I'm going too fast.) I make tabs for flipping the pedals patterned after the old French Leotard platform pedals and add weight to the front of the pedal to get it to hand with that tab up and ready to be flipped back. Home Depot 1/2" by 1/8" flat bar works really well. Bend it to an "L", drill the short leg to take an M5 screw and mount it to a reflector drilling on the rattrap. Long leg gets bent to a gentle arc around 1 1/4" long. (Study those Leotards. They got it right.) For the weights I just use longer toeclip screws to secure whatever steel is available. For the Shimanos I use 1/2" fender washers. If I were to go back to traditional rattraps. I might cut two or three inches of light flat bar and drill for the toeclip bolts.
Some might scoff at the added weight. Especially weight added just to be weight. Killer on hills, right? But think about if you ever have to stop on that really steep killer. You're gonna have to start again. If you cannot get a first try pedal pickup, this could be "leg breaking". Perhaps the moment that shapes your entire ride and not for the better. By contrast, a clean first try pickup and you'll be thinking that one or two ounces of extra weight was the best investment you ever made.
And efficiency: I ride modern clipless on my geared bikes. As I believe I said in an earlier post, my knees require that I ride no-float pedals. So I run LOOK Delta compatible pedals (made by Wellgo; Forte brand). Convenient and light. But the ride is identical to the fix gears with their toeclips, straps and slotted cleats. Shoes feel a little different pulling up on hard hills but I find the strap-pedal connection to feel secure and good. (I'm not a monster. I use good quality toestraps and change them frequently. In recent years I've been going to Portland's leather shop and having them cut me long strips of exactly 1/2" leather and riveting that to old good buckles. These don't last as long as high quality straps but are so much cheaper! (And radically better and longer lasting than lesser brands straps. I'm looking at you, Christophe/Zefal.)
Just had a thought. A needed fix gear invention. I won't do it as I don't need them but - slotted pedals with float. Just need a second plate under the cleat with a bearing between (and probably a spring to keep the slot centered). Now you get the knee-saver float but no accidental unclips because you rotated too far and again, if you do unclip accidentally, you are still in the toeclip.
In case you guys haven't figured it out yet, I love riding fix gears. 120,000 miles and they are still my go-to bikes. Oh, and what I think an ultimate fix gear should be:
Climbing a 14% grade in a 42-17, (Good photo of the pedal hardware. Washers under the front of my foot. The tab is hard to see but exactly in line with the "t" of "city" on the waterbottle.)
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#34
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Finally! The weather is good and I got an opportunity to do a couple of rides. It's awesome! But will need front brake obviously. As for fixed gear drive train it's riding the way I expected, a bit noisy with slackened chain, but it's pure enjoyment. Thanks again for all your advises.
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