Schwinn Network 3.0 Ridiculous Build Thread....
04-27-23, 10:44 PM
#76
Clark W. Griswold
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I've seen more broken Yetis and Konas than Schwinn frames... And several Trek and Fuji frames have had some breakage too... not one broken "low end" schwinn.. i live a fairly short ride from a downhill insanity park...... the old skycomish MTB frames have almost all snapped at the BB/Chain stay junction.... i'm presently working on a Biscayne bike.. the donator said it was "A Low-End" bike... it has Shimano Deerhead parts and a set of Nitto Bull Moose bars.. the frame is fairly light Cro-mo.. the hubs are Shimano Exage and smooth with their new grease....... sometimes our experiences tell us one thing, and other's opinions tell us something completely different..... Now.. if Arron builds this frame up with decent pieces and then later finds a nice frame with Disc brake mounts .. guess what Arron will be doing with his new skills....building wheels and swapping parts.
when i saw how far arron had torn the schwinn down without a question on HOW to get to that point, i learned much respect for him. you should too.
My first MTB build was a Trek 720..that needed EVERYTHING done... i bought more tools than parts, and i bought a LOT of Parts! I still have the tools, except for the cone wrenches i've Worn Out and Replaced, and one 13mm that i snapped working on a walmart mongoose front hub.....park replaced that one... i don't warranty things i wear out.
stop dissing and start reminiscing, veggie. I really like pearl white...
PS.. he's using it mostly on roads, so no big loads.. it will work great when he's done.
PPS.. Snobby Thieves will turn their thieving noses up at a "SCHWINN !" so it's less likely to get jacked...
when i saw how far arron had torn the schwinn down without a question on HOW to get to that point, i learned much respect for him. you should too.
My first MTB build was a Trek 720..that needed EVERYTHING done... i bought more tools than parts, and i bought a LOT of Parts! I still have the tools, except for the cone wrenches i've Worn Out and Replaced, and one 13mm that i snapped working on a walmart mongoose front hub.....park replaced that one... i don't warranty things i wear out.
stop dissing and start reminiscing, veggie. I really like pearl white...
PS.. he's using it mostly on roads, so no big loads.. it will work great when he's done.
PPS.. Snobby Thieves will turn their thieving noses up at a "SCHWINN !" so it's less likely to get jacked...
Deerhead stuff was good stuff back in the day what comes on this bike was not. I understand what you are trying to say but I think you have missed what this bike is. It is not a mountain bike and is not mountain bike adjacent and it is a low end bike. Maybe a notch higher than say the absolute bottom of the bottom Wally-Mart specials but not the Schwinn of old and also not the Schwinn branded stuff made by actual quality manufacturers.
Tearing it down is a good skill to learn not saying that I don't respect tearing something down and learning how it all works my argument was more putting good money towards bad.
Also it should be noted the 720 was Trek's high end touring bike back in the day and the newer version was a solid entry level bikepacking type bike (I should not when I say entry level I don't mean bottom end cheap crap, but it had 105 a good solid workhorse groupset that lasts a long time and works really well at a lower pricepoint)
Yes potentially less likely to get jacked but also more of a known quantity so easier to sell so a bit of a double edged sword in that sense but yeah probably a lot of the thieves who know their stuff might pass on it
In terms of reminiscing let's do it. A proper Chicago Schwinn Paramount made by Emil and Oscar Waystyn or some of the 70s Paramounts with Campy and Nervex lugs. Now those are Schwinns
04-27-23, 10:52 PM
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Why are you mentioning mountain bikes in a thread about a hybrid? Of course MTB frames can snap as they are subjected to a lot especially in downhill and more rocky and rutted trails and I am talking modern Schwinn not say some of the nicer Schwinns of old or the Homegrown stuff made by others with Schwinn branding. Compare the right bikes.
Deerhead stuff was good stuff back in the day what comes on this bike was not. I understand what you are trying to say but I think you have missed what this bike is. It is not a mountain bike and is not mountain bike adjacent and it is a low end bike. Maybe a notch higher than say the absolute bottom of the bottom Wally-Mart specials but not the Schwinn of old and also not the Schwinn branded stuff made by actual quality manufacturers.
Tearing it down is a good skill to learn not saying that I don't respect tearing something down and learning how it all works my argument was more putting good money towards bad.
Also it should be noted the 720 was Trek's high end touring bike back in the day and the newer version was a solid entry level bikepacking type bike (I should not when I say entry level I don't mean bottom end cheap crap, but it had 105 a good solid workhorse groupset that lasts a long time and works really well at a lower pricepoint)
Yes potentially less likely to get jacked but also more of a known quantity so easier to sell so a bit of a double edged sword in that sense but yeah probably a lot of the thieves who know their stuff might pass on it
In terms of reminiscing let's do it. A proper Chicago Schwinn Paramount made by Emil and Oscar Waystyn or some of the 70s Paramounts with Campy and Nervex lugs. Now those are Schwinns
Deerhead stuff was good stuff back in the day what comes on this bike was not. I understand what you are trying to say but I think you have missed what this bike is. It is not a mountain bike and is not mountain bike adjacent and it is a low end bike. Maybe a notch higher than say the absolute bottom of the bottom Wally-Mart specials but not the Schwinn of old and also not the Schwinn branded stuff made by actual quality manufacturers.
Tearing it down is a good skill to learn not saying that I don't respect tearing something down and learning how it all works my argument was more putting good money towards bad.
Also it should be noted the 720 was Trek's high end touring bike back in the day and the newer version was a solid entry level bikepacking type bike (I should not when I say entry level I don't mean bottom end cheap crap, but it had 105 a good solid workhorse groupset that lasts a long time and works really well at a lower pricepoint)
Yes potentially less likely to get jacked but also more of a known quantity so easier to sell so a bit of a double edged sword in that sense but yeah probably a lot of the thieves who know their stuff might pass on it
In terms of reminiscing let's do it. A proper Chicago Schwinn Paramount made by Emil and Oscar Waystyn or some of the 70s Paramounts with Campy and Nervex lugs. Now those are Schwinns
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04-27-23, 11:08 PM
#78
Clark W. Griswold
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Correct, this is a hybrid-fitness bike and I am too old and broken to mountain bike and jump anymore. This is for pure enjoyment on paved streets and possibly an easy dirt trail. There will never be any hard stress put on it other than pedaling it. The reason is to have the most enjoyable experience I can building upon what I was given. That includes the build itself and not just riding it. I would have just bought a used Trek if I weren't a curious engineer interested in seeing what can be done.
04-27-23, 11:10 PM
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Here are a couple of pictures. I will put together a complete 'picture' of everything later. And YES the Allen key set you see is in a Standard plastic holder but I am using metric socket drive or metric hand keys for everything. I have a metric set fitted into a standard plastic holder. I am pretty much against the Standard system. It is useful for carpenters cutting boards but not for accuracy. And to be clear, my torque specs were used in NM and calculated to ft/lb or in/lb for the masses.
Last edited by aaronM46; 04-27-23 at 11:19 PM.
04-27-23, 11:51 PM
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Research has shown that Fuji sells unused high-quality frames to other companies. As I have mentioned before, this is not a Walmart Schwinn. It is currently selling for over $550 which in my opinion is stupid but I believe that price is based on the frame and not the components. I WOULD NEVER buy this bike for that price or any price knowing what I know unless it was $50 just for the frame. I could be completely wrong but I am confident that my frame is pretty decent. I am going to build upon it regardless. I see no problems with a frame with very nice welds, quality aluminum, and low weight. Granted the size and shape of a structure does not make up for it's integrity but it is 3.7 lbs and it is a hybrid/fitness bike. I would be very tempted to make it into an MTB with no suspension to prove the strength of the frame if it weren't for my bad hands and knees. Volunteer if you are in the vicinity of North Myrtle Beach and I may have to do that.
04-28-23, 10:38 AM
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why are you mentioning mountain bikes in a thread about a hybrid? Of course mtb frames can snap as they are subjected to a lot especially in downhill and more rocky and rutted trails and i am talking modern schwinn not say some of the nicer schwinns of old or the homegrown stuff made by others with schwinn branding. Compare the right bikes.
Deerhead stuff was good stuff back in the day what comes on this bike was not. I understand what you are trying to say but i think you have missed what this bike is. It is not a mountain bike and is not mountain bike adjacent and it is a low end bike. Maybe a notch higher than say the absolute bottom of the bottom wally-mart specials but not the schwinn of old and also not the schwinn branded stuff made by actual quality manufacturers.
Tearing it down is a good skill to learn not saying that i don't respect tearing something down and learning how it all works my argument was more putting good money towards bad.
Also it should be noted the 720 was trek's high end touring bike back in the day and the newer version was a solid entry level bikepacking type bike (i should not when i say entry level i don't mean bottom end cheap crap, but it had 105 a good solid workhorse groupset that lasts a long time and works really well at a lower pricepoint)
yes potentially less likely to get jacked but also more of a known quantity so easier to sell so a bit of a double edged sword in that sense but yeah probably a lot of the thieves who know their stuff might pass on it
in terms of reminiscing let's do it. A proper chicago schwinn paramount made by emil and oscar waystyn or some of the 70s paramounts with campy and nervex lugs. Now those are schwinns
Deerhead stuff was good stuff back in the day what comes on this bike was not. I understand what you are trying to say but i think you have missed what this bike is. It is not a mountain bike and is not mountain bike adjacent and it is a low end bike. Maybe a notch higher than say the absolute bottom of the bottom wally-mart specials but not the schwinn of old and also not the schwinn branded stuff made by actual quality manufacturers.
Tearing it down is a good skill to learn not saying that i don't respect tearing something down and learning how it all works my argument was more putting good money towards bad.
Also it should be noted the 720 was trek's high end touring bike back in the day and the newer version was a solid entry level bikepacking type bike (i should not when i say entry level i don't mean bottom end cheap crap, but it had 105 a good solid workhorse groupset that lasts a long time and works really well at a lower pricepoint)
yes potentially less likely to get jacked but also more of a known quantity so easier to sell so a bit of a double edged sword in that sense but yeah probably a lot of the thieves who know their stuff might pass on it
in terms of reminiscing let's do it. A proper chicago schwinn paramount made by emil and oscar waystyn or some of the 70s paramounts with campy and nervex lugs. Now those are schwinns
Last edited by maddog34; 04-28-23 at 10:57 AM.
04-28-23, 11:15 AM
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Here are a couple of pictures. I will put together a complete 'picture' of everything later. And YES the Allen key set you see is in a Standard plastic holder but I am using metric socket drive or metric hand keys for everything. I have a metric set fitted into a standard plastic holder. I am pretty much against the Standard system. It is useful for carpenters cutting boards but not for accuracy. And to be clear, my torque specs were used in NM and calculated to ft/lb or in/lb for the masses.
Nice light and collapsible bike stand, btw... i have one of those too
It went to a lot of CX races in the past and is now my "final shifting tune" stand in the shop.my 930 Trek was a bare frame/fork purchase in '83... the 27" wheels/tires from my Puch touring bike wouldn't fit so i bought hubs/spokes/rims/tires and a spoke wrench...... etc... i still drag it out for a rip every now and then.... i mostly ride my $17 garage sale bike... it's worth a lot more now...pretty much every part has been swapped out and upgraded... except the XTR click shifters that were on it when i purchased it.
Make sure to check the Axle cone setting on those new wheels.. they sometimes are Too tight fromthe factory and that extra bearing pressure creates heat... galling is the result.. Proper bearing setting on a QR Wheel is just a touch of play when not installed on the bike... just a touch... the QR will COMPRESS the axle slightly when cammed over into the locked position... and do Not over-tighten the QRs, ok?
Last edited by maddog34; 04-28-23 at 11:51 AM.
04-28-23, 02:17 PM
#83
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you're gonna have some serious fun riding your new bike... black parts on a white frame always looks great too!
Nice light and collapsible bike stand, btw... i have one of those too It went to a lot of CX races in the past and is now my "final shifting tune" stand in the shop.
my 930 Trek was a bare frame/fork purchase in '83... the 27" wheels/tires from my Puch touring bike wouldn't fit so i bought hubs/spokes/rims/tires and a spoke wrench...... etc... i still drag it out for a rip every now and then.... i mostly ride my $17 garage sale bike... it's worth a lot more now...pretty much every part has been swapped out and upgraded... except the XTR click shifters that were on it when i purchased it.
Make sure to check the Axle cone setting on those new wheels.. they sometimes are Too tight fromthe factory and that extra bearing pressure creates heat... galling is the result.. Proper bearing setting on a QR Wheel is just a touch of play when not installed on the bike... just a touch... the QR will COMPRESS the axle slightly when cammed over into the locked position... and do Not over-tighten the QRs, ok?
Nice light and collapsible bike stand, btw... i have one of those too
It went to a lot of CX races in the past and is now my "final shifting tune" stand in the shop.my 930 Trek was a bare frame/fork purchase in '83... the 27" wheels/tires from my Puch touring bike wouldn't fit so i bought hubs/spokes/rims/tires and a spoke wrench...... etc... i still drag it out for a rip every now and then.... i mostly ride my $17 garage sale bike... it's worth a lot more now...pretty much every part has been swapped out and upgraded... except the XTR click shifters that were on it when i purchased it.
Make sure to check the Axle cone setting on those new wheels.. they sometimes are Too tight fromthe factory and that extra bearing pressure creates heat... galling is the result.. Proper bearing setting on a QR Wheel is just a touch of play when not installed on the bike... just a touch... the QR will COMPRESS the axle slightly when cammed over into the locked position... and do Not over-tighten the QRs, ok?
Thank you for the tips on the cone bearings and QR. I will double-check them.
I am currently waiting on headset parts and a chain so I have my girlfriend's bike in pieces right now to clean it up and tune it up. It is almost stripped and about to get pressure washed. Practically brand new Trek MTB but older and was not stored properly so it is very dirty and there is corrosion on some pieces. Not trying to fully restore it but I want to clean it up really nicely for her. And I have discovered that the rear brake spring is broken.
Thanks,
Aaron
04-28-23, 03:43 PM
#84
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Do you mean my headlight when you mentioned nice light? That thing is awesome. I will never own a different brand of headlamp. I use it all the time to work on things. I used to hike the Appalachian trail at night and I used it then. It is very bright and will make your forehead sweat from the heat on the highest power. It is a Nitecore brand by the way. I am a bit forgetful sometimes and misplace things so I even have a Bluetooth tag attached to it so I can find it if I misplace it.
Thank you for the tips on the cone bearings and QR. I will double-check them.
I am currently waiting on headset parts and a chain so I have my girlfriend's bike in pieces right now to clean it up and tune it up. It is almost stripped and about to get pressure washed. Practically brand new Trek MTB but older and was not stored properly so it is very dirty and there is corrosion on some pieces. Not trying to fully restore it but I want to clean it up really nicely for her. And I have discovered that the rear brake spring is broken.
Thanks,
Aaron
Thank you for the tips on the cone bearings and QR. I will double-check them.
I am currently waiting on headset parts and a chain so I have my girlfriend's bike in pieces right now to clean it up and tune it up. It is almost stripped and about to get pressure washed. Practically brand new Trek MTB but older and was not stored properly so it is very dirty and there is corrosion on some pieces. Not trying to fully restore it but I want to clean it up really nicely for her. And I have discovered that the rear brake spring is broken.
Thanks,
Aaron
but i use a "headlight" too.. but while working in shadowed areas, dusk, etc.
04-28-23, 03:47 PM
#85
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His bike, his money, our entertainment. A frame quality lower than cutting-edge carbon fiber and higher than old Taiwanese swing sets*. Looks like fun.
*My most comfortable bike was probably made from old Taiwanese swing sets, so there's that...
*My most comfortable bike was probably made from old Taiwanese swing sets, so there's that...
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04-28-23, 08:28 PM
#86
Clark W. Griswold
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I would love a long vacation are you going to take care of my bills and all the tasks that need to get done at the shop because that would be excellent. I will still be posting here as I enjoy it even with silly arguments as yours. In a thread about a cheap hybrid you mention mountain bikes not being durable after being used for downhill.
04-28-23, 08:34 PM
#87
Clark W. Griswold
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You are correct in your thought although there is nothing wrong with this frame as far as I know other than it carries a Schwinn sticker. It has already been speculated that it is a rebranded high-quality frame. A Fuji Nevada to be specific. The frame weighed 3.7 lbs with the bottom bracket and headset cups. The only difference is that Nevada has internal cabling. This frame is identical and the unusual shape of the tube connecting the headset tube to the bottom bracket tube pretty much proves that.
Research has shown that Fuji sells unused high-quality frames to other companies. As I have mentioned before, this is not a Walmart Schwinn. It is currently selling for over $550 which in my opinion is stupid but I believe that price is based on the frame and not the components. I WOULD NEVER buy this bike for that price or any price knowing what I know unless it was $50 just for the frame. I could be completely wrong but I am confident that my frame is pretty decent. I am going to build upon it regardless. I see no problems with a frame with very nice welds, quality aluminum, and low weight. Granted the size and shape of a structure does not make up for it's integrity but it is 3.7 lbs and it is a hybrid/fitness bike. I would be very tempted to make it into an MTB with no suspension to prove the strength of the frame if it weren't for my bad hands and knees. Volunteer if you are in the vicinity of North Myrtle Beach and I may have to do that.
Research has shown that Fuji sells unused high-quality frames to other companies. As I have mentioned before, this is not a Walmart Schwinn. It is currently selling for over $550 which in my opinion is stupid but I believe that price is based on the frame and not the components. I WOULD NEVER buy this bike for that price or any price knowing what I know unless it was $50 just for the frame. I could be completely wrong but I am confident that my frame is pretty decent. I am going to build upon it regardless. I see no problems with a frame with very nice welds, quality aluminum, and low weight. Granted the size and shape of a structure does not make up for it's integrity but it is 3.7 lbs and it is a hybrid/fitness bike. I would be very tempted to make it into an MTB with no suspension to prove the strength of the frame if it weren't for my bad hands and knees. Volunteer if you are in the vicinity of North Myrtle Beach and I may have to do that.
Keep in mind though this isn't a personal attack on you or anything this is just facts about Fuji and Schwinn as it is now. I know you are going to go ahead with the build you made that clear and ain't nobody can stop you.
04-28-23, 08:45 PM
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The Fuji Nevada was a low end mountain bike and honestly some Fuji stuff wasn't bad but they overall did plenty of low end stuff and for the most part I would not want a more modern Fuji frame. The pricing for the Schwinn is based in la-la land because they are trying to scrape together some shreds of credibility with the name they use and compete with the bottom end of say Specialized or Trek or similar manufacturers hybrids but at least with Specialzied...you get their support. It is a notch up from wally-mart but not a huge leap and bound.
Keep in mind though this isn't a personal attack on you or anything this is just facts about Fuji and Schwinn as it is now. I know you are going to go ahead with the build you made that clear and ain't nobody can stop you.
Keep in mind though this isn't a personal attack on you or anything this is just facts about Fuji and Schwinn as it is now. I know you are going to go ahead with the build you made that clear and ain't nobody can stop you.
04-28-23, 10:05 PM
#89
Clark W. Griswold
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Hahaha you are silly. You are extremely silly and you couldn't even respond to what I wrote to you. Thanks for the laugh I am currently watching Shrinking on that Apple TV thing and there was a scene that hit me a little hard as I lost my Mother when I was Alice's age or so (maybe a year older or so)
Great show you should watch it. I am having fun on a bike forum talking bikes. You seem to be obsessed with other's mental health maybe you need to look inward. Maybe you are giving us a cry for help and if you need it, hey I can help out as best I can. If not chill out dude and talk bikes.
Great show you should watch it. I am having fun on a bike forum talking bikes. You seem to be obsessed with other's mental health maybe you need to look inward. Maybe you are giving us a cry for help and if you need it, hey I can help out as best I can. If not chill out dude and talk bikes.
05-01-23, 06:34 PM
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So, things are coming to a close. I will post final pictures and thoughts in the next couple of days. Everything is together and I rode it a mile today with no issues. It was very nice compared to what it started out as. I was very impressed. 3x9 is a lot more than I need but it's still lovely. Shifting is almost unnoticeable and the brakes are excellent. All of the new bearings are much better and so much smoother. I need to adjust the bar angle or possibly get new more flat-style bars. I am not happy with the angle of these bars and how my wrists are situated.
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05-01-23, 08:16 PM
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Ok, I have spent a couple of more hours on the bike and really only have one complaint, so far.
The front brakes. I can put it on the stand and get everything perfect and I can ride it for a while casually but after a few hard stops to bed the pads in, I am noticing that the rotors are warped! I am not dragging the brakes and they were not rubbing when I left. I am not fiercely braking to see if I can kill myself either. Also, the rotors were torqued to spec. They are just warping under moderate stops. Yay! SO ZERO stars on the brakes!
So -1 for me. I will return and get my money back for the whole set. My question to you IS, what do I buy now? I need a front and rear hydraulic brake setup with discs that are reasonably priced. 6 Bolt. Thanks!
The front brakes. I can put it on the stand and get everything perfect and I can ride it for a while casually but after a few hard stops to bed the pads in, I am noticing that the rotors are warped! I am not dragging the brakes and they were not rubbing when I left. I am not fiercely braking to see if I can kill myself either. Also, the rotors were torqued to spec. They are just warping under moderate stops. Yay! SO ZERO stars on the brakes!
So -1 for me. I will return and get my money back for the whole set. My question to you IS, what do I buy now? I need a front and rear hydraulic brake setup with discs that are reasonably priced. 6 Bolt. Thanks!
05-01-23, 08:30 PM
#92
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Ok, I have spent a couple of more hours on the bike and really only have one complaint, so far.
The front brakes. I can put it on the stand and get everything perfect and I can ride it for a while casually but after a few hard stops to bed the pads in, I am noticing that the rotors are warped! I am not dragging the brakes and they were not rubbing when I left. I am not fiercely braking to see if I can kill myself either. Also, the rotors were torqued to spec. They are just warping under moderate stops. Yay! SO ZERO stars on the brakes!
So -1 for me. I will return and get my money back for the whole set. My question to you IS, what do I buy now? I need a front and rear hydraulic brake setup with discs that are reasonably priced. 6 Bolt. Thanks!
The front brakes. I can put it on the stand and get everything perfect and I can ride it for a while casually but after a few hard stops to bed the pads in, I am noticing that the rotors are warped! I am not dragging the brakes and they were not rubbing when I left. I am not fiercely braking to see if I can kill myself either. Also, the rotors were torqued to spec. They are just warping under moderate stops. Yay! SO ZERO stars on the brakes!
So -1 for me. I will return and get my money back for the whole set. My question to you IS, what do I buy now? I need a front and rear hydraulic brake setup with discs that are reasonably priced. 6 Bolt. Thanks!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33459210378...Bk9SR8D4qKT7YQ
the calipers probably aren't at fault... just the rotors.
and if you later find fault with tht calipers and levers... the Shimano MT-200s work decent... about $100 a pair, or less. Prices jump up in the springtime... sigh..
05-01-23, 08:57 PM
#94
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Amazon refunded my money with no need to return what I have. I may just buy better rotors to see if they will work. I will respond back soon.
05-01-23, 08:59 PM
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i've used these... do some research and read up on which type matches your pad type best.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33459210378...Bk9SR8D4qKT7YQ
the calipers probably aren't at fault... just the rotors.
and if you later find fault with tht calipers and levers... the Shimano MT-200s work decent... about $100 a pair, or less. Prices jump up in the springtime... sigh..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33459210378...Bk9SR8D4qKT7YQ
the calipers probably aren't at fault... just the rotors.
and if you later find fault with tht calipers and levers... the Shimano MT-200s work decent... about $100 a pair, or less. Prices jump up in the springtime... sigh..
05-01-23, 09:06 PM
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SO, now I need to decide if I buy good rotors and put them in these cheap calipers or just upgrade it all. If you know me you know the answer to that.
AND, so I will measure and go out and buy good rotors in the hope that I don't F them up on my free and cheap hydraulic system. Suggestions on those 'Good Rotors'? Not those ebay specials please. I want something brand named so I can now see something.
AND, so I will measure and go out and buy good rotors in the hope that I don't F them up on my free and cheap hydraulic system. Suggestions on those 'Good Rotors'? Not those ebay specials please. I want something brand named so I can now see something.
05-01-23, 09:11 PM
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AND YES, to clear it up to this part:
1. Amazon Brake rotors warped from the hydraulic brake set in my parts list.
2. Amazon told me to keep the whole junk set and they refunded my money. I still have everything.
3. I am going to buy NEW good rotors and run them on them on the Amazon brake calipers. Maybe?
1. Amazon Brake rotors warped from the hydraulic brake set in my parts list.
2. Amazon told me to keep the whole junk set and they refunded my money. I still have everything.
3. I am going to buy NEW good rotors and run them on them on the Amazon brake calipers. Maybe?
05-02-23, 08:27 AM
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The brakes work by converting kinetic energy to heat energy. It's not surprising that after a few hard stops that the rotor would warp as the outer edge of the disk expands with heat to a different dimension than the center of the disk that was not heated.
Some brakes are just that way. Shimano IceTech rotors have a substantial aluminum spider that holds the braking surface true. Floating rotors tend to do well. I'm sure there are others but laser cut stamped steel isn't the best possible solution.
BTW: It's totally normal to fine tune a disc brake system after initial install. Truing a rotor periodically is well within the range of expected norms. Especially after first use. I suspect it may have something to do with surface tension from the manufacturing process being scrubbed off. (I'm probably wrong in that. But it seems a reasonable guess.)
Some brakes are just that way. Shimano IceTech rotors have a substantial aluminum spider that holds the braking surface true. Floating rotors tend to do well. I'm sure there are others but laser cut stamped steel isn't the best possible solution.
BTW: It's totally normal to fine tune a disc brake system after initial install. Truing a rotor periodically is well within the range of expected norms. Especially after first use. I suspect it may have something to do with surface tension from the manufacturing process being scrubbed off. (I'm probably wrong in that. But it seems a reasonable guess.)
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I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
05-02-23, 09:53 AM
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The brakes work by converting kinetic energy to heat energy. It's not surprising that after a few hard stops that the rotor would warp as the outer edge of the disk expands with heat to a different dimension than the center of the disk that was not heated.
Some brakes are just that way. Shimano IceTech rotors have a substantial aluminum spider that holds the braking surface true. Floating rotors tend to do well. I'm sure there are others but laser cut stamped steel isn't the best possible solution.
BTW: It's totally normal to fine tune a disc brake system after initial install. Truing a rotor periodically is well within the range of expected norms. Especially after first use. I suspect it may have something to do with surface tension from the manufacturing process being scrubbed off. (I'm probably wrong in that. But it seems a reasonable guess.)
Some brakes are just that way. Shimano IceTech rotors have a substantial aluminum spider that holds the braking surface true. Floating rotors tend to do well. I'm sure there are others but laser cut stamped steel isn't the best possible solution.
BTW: It's totally normal to fine tune a disc brake system after initial install. Truing a rotor periodically is well within the range of expected norms. Especially after first use. I suspect it may have something to do with surface tension from the manufacturing process being scrubbed off. (I'm probably wrong in that. But it seems a reasonable guess.)
05-02-23, 04:45 PM
#100
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I rode a few miles today ignoring the rotor noise. I tried adjusting the caliper repeatedly but there is no help for it. Also, I really need different handlebars. These cause me to bend my wrists inward which makes them sore. Any recommendations on bars? I found an article that said to determine the length of bars you need to multiply your height in cm by 4.4. That leaves me with 780mm bar options. Does that seem too wide for road riding and maybe an easy trail? I was thinking I should try 720mm bars. Also, I have a stem that uses 25.4mm bars. Is there any reason to go to 31.8mm?
Thanks!
Thanks!