Paint removal for welding
05-02-23, 05:35 PM
#51
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Can't speak for aluminium but I've done the same repair on steel (Tange Champion) with TIG and a gusset.
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05-02-23, 05:42 PM
#52
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Interesting your using Stycast 2850?
I used to use it years ago for encapsulating electronic parts in optical oceanographic instruments I built.
It was a highly thermo-conductive insulating epoxy we used because we wanted the electronics to respond quickly to temperature changes as they were being lowered to depth.
It basically, for lack of a better term, has lots of ground glass in it.
I'd find it difficult to believe that there aren't "stronger" products out there.
I used to use it years ago for encapsulating electronic parts in optical oceanographic instruments I built.
It was a highly thermo-conductive insulating epoxy we used because we wanted the electronics to respond quickly to temperature changes as they were being lowered to depth.
It basically, for lack of a better term, has lots of ground glass in it.
I'd find it difficult to believe that there aren't "stronger" products out there.
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05-02-23, 05:45 PM
#53
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Did you use the black stuff? The blue stuff 2850ft bl is for electrical insulation and I was hoping that the black stuff would be slightly stronger.
I chose it because it looked like the strongest stuff I had lying around.
the epoxy is a class two reproductive hazard, since we are bringing Darwin into this
I chose it because it looked like the strongest stuff I had lying around.
the epoxy is a class two reproductive hazard, since we are bringing Darwin into this
yet another pointer to this not being a repair, but an illusion
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05-02-23, 05:55 PM
#54
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off topic but back in the day of when I did Oceanographic research for the Coast Guard (Marine Science Technician first class) we used to put the electrical connection to a Salinity Temp Depth (STD) sensor in a film canister and fill it with epoxy to seal, (we also had Nansen bottles with the cool flip and save the temperature thermometers to do controls samples)
Conductivity (which pretty much is salinity) Temperature & Depth.
Maybe you used one of my transmissometers?
05-02-23, 06:11 PM
#55
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but this was 75 thru 76 on the USCG Evergreen which as designated as WAGO for oceanographic. we did most of our work off of newfoundland for ice berg drift predictions. worked with UW and Woodshole
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05-02-23, 06:12 PM
#56
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(* the remark about the included zip ties)
The more I read, the more I wonder if Larry isn't trolling everyone...
Last edited by sweeks; 05-02-23 at 06:18 PM.
05-02-23, 06:16 PM
#57
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forgot the brand it was pretty much a steel cylinder, with a protective cage around the sensors on the botttom.
but this was 75 thru 76 on the USCG Evergreen which as designated as WAGO for oceanographic. we did most of our work off of newfoundland for ice berg drift predictions. worked with UW and Woodshole
but this was 75 thru 76 on the USCG Evergreen which as designated as WAGO for oceanographic. we did most of our work off of newfoundland for ice berg drift predictions. worked with UW and Woodshole
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 05-02-23 at 06:20 PM.
05-02-23, 06:43 PM
#58
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I was thinking tonight. If Larry has a TJ Maxx, or better yet a Ross near by, he can get some of their price stickers and put over the repair. Those things don't come off of anything.
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05-03-23, 07:07 AM
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I agree with Bill Kapaun You are much better off scrapping the frame. Also think about safety. You don't want that frame to completely break on you in the middle of a ride.
05-03-23, 09:48 AM
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Koyote this is/was a fancy road racing bike, not a clunker. I only got one layer of cloth and there was so much epoxy I don’t think I got a nice clean wrap, but what’s done is done. The “wiping” I did was of the epoxy that got on the drivechain
as long as this joint fails before another weld I’m happy, I don’t think it will make me crash when it fails. Other welds, yeah can’t say that. So I guess in a since it’s good that the repair isn’t super robust, since it’s hard to say how much I’ve damaged the other welds in the 15 or so miles I’ve ridden it like this.
and yes there are 2 zip ties under the glue which are going to be structural/permanent, they are fancy weather/UV resistant ones. Or atleast I think they are
as long as this joint fails before another weld I’m happy, I don’t think it will make me crash when it fails. Other welds, yeah can’t say that. So I guess in a since it’s good that the repair isn’t super robust, since it’s hard to say how much I’ve damaged the other welds in the 15 or so miles I’ve ridden it like this.
and yes there are 2 zip ties under the glue which are going to be structural/permanent, they are fancy weather/UV resistant ones. Or atleast I think they are
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05-03-23, 09:58 AM
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05-03-23, 01:45 PM
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Has a productive conversation with an engineer who happens to be a bicycle nerd. He explained to me how with this failure the bicycle frame is now a parallelogram, and the integrity of the other welds are now called into question. The next one to fail is likely where the downtube meets the forks (I think that’s what he said) and it will happen when I grab a handful of the front brake in an emergency, and my face will slam into the ground.
that being said, I got on the bike today. There was an initial creek, which was honestly concerning, and now it’s riding silently. I really hope this joint fails again before another fails, I think that’s the biggest worry now. Kind of glad I did a hack job on this repair, might be safer this way. It’s like a fuse or pressure relief valve now.
I found this bicycle abandoned and like the look of the frame. It’s pretty heavy though. This is what I have in mind to put the components of the race bike on. Need to bite the bullet and buy the tools and start trying to put it together.
what kind of stuff should I be looking up in terms of choosing a compatible frame for the components on the epoxied bike? Should I just buy the tools to take everything off, try to put it all back on the Japanese bike, and see if something doesn’t fit and go from there?
that being said, I got on the bike today. There was an initial creek, which was honestly concerning, and now it’s riding silently. I really hope this joint fails again before another fails, I think that’s the biggest worry now. Kind of glad I did a hack job on this repair, might be safer this way. It’s like a fuse or pressure relief valve now.
I found this bicycle abandoned and like the look of the frame. It’s pretty heavy though. This is what I have in mind to put the components of the race bike on. Need to bite the bullet and buy the tools and start trying to put it together.
what kind of stuff should I be looking up in terms of choosing a compatible frame for the components on the epoxied bike? Should I just buy the tools to take everything off, try to put it all back on the Japanese bike, and see if something doesn’t fit and go from there?
05-03-23, 02:04 PM
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05-03-23, 02:09 PM
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Has a productive conversation with an engineer who happens to be a bicycle nerd. He explained to me how with this failure the bicycle frame is now a parallelogram, and the integrity of the other welds are now called into question. The next one to fail is likely where the downtube meets the forks (I think that’s what he said) and it will happen when I grab a handful of the front brake in an emergency, and my face will slam into the ground.
that being said, I got on the bike today. There was an initial creek, which was honestly concerning, and now it’s riding silently. I really hope this joint fails again before another fails, I think that’s the biggest worry now. Kind of glad I did a hack job on this repair, might be safer this way. It’s like a fuse or pressure relief valve now.
I found this bicycle abandoned and like the look of the frame. It’s pretty heavy though. This is what I have in mind to put the components of the race bike on. Need to bite the bullet and buy the tools and start trying to put it together.
what kind of stuff should I be looking up in terms of choosing a compatible frame for the components on the epoxied bike? Should I just buy the tools to take everything off, try to put it all back on the Japanese bike, and see if something doesn’t fit and go from there?
that being said, I got on the bike today. There was an initial creek, which was honestly concerning, and now it’s riding silently. I really hope this joint fails again before another fails, I think that’s the biggest worry now. Kind of glad I did a hack job on this repair, might be safer this way. It’s like a fuse or pressure relief valve now.
I found this bicycle abandoned and like the look of the frame. It’s pretty heavy though. This is what I have in mind to put the components of the race bike on. Need to bite the bullet and buy the tools and start trying to put it together.
what kind of stuff should I be looking up in terms of choosing a compatible frame for the components on the epoxied bike? Should I just buy the tools to take everything off, try to put it all back on the Japanese bike, and see if something doesn’t fit and go from there?
by any chance does the blue/white bike shop label say "the off ramp"
it would be english bottom bracket
you would need a claw derailler or claw derailler adapter https://www.performancebike.com/sunr...BoCzsMQAvD_BwE
the rear is 126 mm so you need to check your wheels or current bike to see if they are 126 or 130. you can stuff a 130 into 126 steel frame, but results can vary, cold setting frame to 130 better
all do able, but take some detail knowledge and planning, not just jump in and see what happens
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
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05-03-23, 02:43 PM
#67
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late 70's early 80's nishki...hard to tell model. good quality frame, likely double butted cro mo tubing. frame likely made by miyata
by any chance does the blue/white bike shop label say "the off ramp"
it would be english bottom bracket
you would need a claw derailler or claw derailler adapter https://www.performancebike.com/sunr...BoCzsMQAvD_BwE
the rear is 126 mm so you need to check your wheels or current bike to see if they are 126 or 130. you can stuff a 130 into 126 steel frame, but results can vary, cold setting frame to 130 better
all do able, but take some detail knowledge and planning, not just jump in and see what happens
by any chance does the blue/white bike shop label say "the off ramp"
it would be english bottom bracket
you would need a claw derailler or claw derailler adapter https://www.performancebike.com/sunr...BoCzsMQAvD_BwE
the rear is 126 mm so you need to check your wheels or current bike to see if they are 126 or 130. you can stuff a 130 into 126 steel frame, but results can vary, cold setting frame to 130 better
all do able, but take some detail knowledge and planning, not just jump in and see what happens
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05-03-23, 02:55 PM
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Heabadge tells me early '70s. There are folks in the C&V section that could probably pinpoint it closer. I agree 100% that it's do-able, but it probably won't be simple. I expect there will be some old vs. new computability issues that will make certain parts of it more challenging to swap parts from the broken (newer) bike to this one. I would also expect some moments of real frustration. It looks like the rear derailleur hanger is missing. It's very possible i was hacked off to make give it a cleaner appearance for a single-speed setup. This can be dealt with, but it's just one of the hurdle that will have to be crossed. There may also be a 27" vs 700c wheel size challenge. Challenges mean money will probably need to be spent.
I would bet it did not have a derailler hanger, but a claw derailler.... (had a 71 or so Azuki that was set up like that and had the diacomp center pull)
forgot about 700 / 27 wheel difference.
doable, but I am looking at it from having done this before and have the tools so to reassess would be challenge for someone who has not
newer frame would be lots easier
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
05-03-23, 03:01 PM
#69
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headbadge did not change a lot very similar to the 82 i had., concur more likely early 70's
I would bet it did not have a derailler hanger, but a claw derailler.... (had a 71 or so Azuki that was set up like that and had the diacomp center pull)
forgot about 700 / 27 wheel difference.
doable, but I am looking at it from having done this before and have the tools so to reassess would be challenge for someone who has not
newer frame would be lots easier
I would bet it did not have a derailler hanger, but a claw derailler.... (had a 71 or so Azuki that was set up like that and had the diacomp center pull)
forgot about 700 / 27 wheel difference.
doable, but I am looking at it from having done this before and have the tools so to reassess would be challenge for someone who has not
newer frame would be lots easier
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05-04-23, 02:47 PM
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I think the repair failed, is better than the zip tie array but the epoxy cracked and the rest of the frame is probably being stressed on every stroke now. I can feel the flex.
05-04-23, 02:51 PM
#72
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Time for a new frame.
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05-04-23, 04:47 PM
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05-04-23, 05:17 PM
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Don't give up so easily. I'm confident in your skillz. Find a good 10%+ descent, maybe some rumble strips at the bottom and let 'er rip! 