Mr. 66

I have a few sets of Suntour, Cyclone 7000, Is probably the cleanest. I have Superbe but they are later additions, in black, strictly user condition.

Oldairhead 

Anybody know the production dates of Union U40 pedals? I've got a NOS pair with French threads that I want to use on a period build.

The Golden Boy 

I haven't gotten to that point yet with them- but IIRC, they're cartridge bearings.

Looks like I have an excuse to take more pix!!!

juvela

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have observed some small variations in dustcap and inner end of spindle

also they are offered in two finishes:

the chrome, such as your set, and the more commonly encountered zinc

ironically the zinc seems to hold up better against corrosion from what have observed

one way to see a number of examples all in one place is to go to the Deutschland ebay site


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grumpus

I used to love those Lyotards, had them on several bikes in the 1980s, I think I still have a set. I tried several "better" pedals but I have wide feet and used both flat and cleated shoes, on and off road; they were the most comfortable solution, and reasonable quality bearings.

embankmentlb

Those pedals look super great! They really complement C-record era Campy equipted bikes. I however find them harder to clip into than the standard two sided spd's.

ehcoplex 

They do take a little getting used to, but I’ve only ever used single-sided SPDs so….I’ve gotten used to ‘em! I’m also far from being a ‘racer’ & don’t live in an urban area, so speed & lots of in-&-out aren’t an issue (for me).

embankmentlb

I have a couple of sets. If I could avoid stopping at intersections……. well that would solve many of my problems. Excellent pedals!

steelbikeguy

I do like these, partly because of the sleek silver appearance making them compatible with my vintage stuff, and partly because they are lighter than some of the simpler double sided MTB SPD's.

The overhaul is easy if you just pull out the axle/bearing assembly, shove some new grease into the bottom of the pedal body cavity, and put the axle/bearing assembly back in. I've disassembled the bearings before, which involves handling some small parts. The bearings themselves are 3/32" diameter, so don't drop them!!





If you do pull the bearings apart, be aware that some use left hand threads for the cone on the right (drive side) pedal! I managed to destroy these threads on one A520 before I knew this.


Steve in Peoria

Mr. 66

Here is the opening pair, installed on TA Specialties cranks with ramp, ring guard, and lots of dome nuts.

Mr. 66

I lol admit, I have a few street finds mostly MTB, not from the Burke-Gilman though, most of my finds were picked from Thorn**** and Dravus. That location had a used bike, and ebike shops, along with a bike trail that had many revolving crusty RVs parking. I've given away and sold off all of those except one, a Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30.

tjfastback66

My feet are too large for these small French pedals - Lyotard but they cleaned up nicely!

Force 

My favorites are these track version TA pedals

juvela

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also offered in an "orthopedic" variant with plates of ten optional heights to solve problems of unequal leg length




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juvela

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these appear to be model 45CA which have been truncated into track pedals from road originals




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grumpus

I put those on one of my better bikes because they were really nice quality for the price, but they were just too narrow, even after I filed the quill flat.

79pmooney

Steel cages - yes! I only run steel cages because I always want and use great gripping cleats. The best grip - metal to metal. The cleats - aluminum. Doesn't take long for aluminum cleats to massacre aluminum cages. Now aluminum cleats on decently chromed pedal rattraps - that combo goes forever. (Well, the cleats wear out but not the cages. I have a pair of Campy NR pedals with steel cages that have seen 40,000 miles of aluminum cleats.)

tjfastback66

Well you could be spot on with your assessment. Pedals and Crank were about $44 on Ebay, all I was interested was the TA Specialties Crank. So sad if you are correct, but it makes sense to me that the ends were cut off.

1989Pre 

The Moser dust caps cost almost as much as the Gipiemme Dual Sprints.

juvela

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the dustcap shape and fixing of cages to body looks just like the Atom 700

wonder if these pedals could have been subbed...

do not know how much of a GIPIEMME road ensemble was actually made by the company

have a set of Galli badged road pedals that are Atom 700's


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Mr. 66

So many wonderful shoots! Many wide foot posters, here are the wider of the bunch. SP-155

I bought these for the straps these are on my Gran Premio.

Here is the wide platform Specialized.

Are they size 15 wide? that I don't know I have a rather narrow footprint.

juvela

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on the subject of pedal width one model which have always found striking is the Sheffield Nr. 655 -





it is so narrow between its inner and outer "spurs" that i nicknamed it "the ballerina pedal".


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1989Pre 

Could well-be, I know that some "Gipiemme" shifters and derailleurs are actually Simplex.
I haven't used Atom pedals, so don't know much about them.

Mr. 66

More pedals, grey 105 with the plastic toeclip.



and another Frenchy

non-fixie 

On my racing bikes I'll use whatever seems correct for the bike, but on my touring bikes I am way more picky. Their pedals need to be comfortable both with cycling shoes and various sneakers and look the part, too.

Lyotard 460D. They look good on older bikes, work well both with and without clips (most of mrs non-fixie's bikes have them), and fit all kinds of shoes. A pair on my Union:



Lyotard Modèle 23, aka "Marcel Berthet". For a 1923 design they are surprisingly nice for everyday use. My Robust wearing a pair:



Campagnolo's late eighties aero offerings. Comfy with whatever shoe fits the toe clips. These are Chorus or Athena, on my Roy Thame: