Camilo

Thanks for the info. I want aware that they did.

jonathanf2

Another quick question. Would it be worth it to switch my FSA Tempo 40/30t crankset w/square tapered BB, to a GRX FC-RX600 10 speed 40/36t crankset and BB-RS500 Shimano BB (the recommended bottom bracket for the crankset). It's the only components on my bike that isn't part of the Shimano/GRX400 groupset. The total investment wouldn't be much ($134 cranket + $22 BB + online discount codes) and I'd have a complete GRX setup.

Saying that, my current crankset hasn't given me any issues and I could just potentially run it until it needs replacing or I swap out my bike frame. That money could also be put elsewhere on my bike or I could just save the money. I'm considering purchasing it now though (in-stock), if I'm unable to get the crankset in the future due to parts scarcity. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

nathand

I'm going to assume you meant a 46/30 crankset and not a 40/36 - and are you sure your current one is 40/30 and not 46/30? I can't find any mention of an FSA 40/30 crankset in a quick search online.

In my experience, bottom brackets are simple devices that don't fail, particularly a square-taper one with an internal cartridge bearing. I had one on an old steel mountain bike that made it through years of abuse including a lot of road salt from riding through snow; for all I know that bottom bracket is still running fine (the bike was stolen). I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference between the cranks and bottom brackets while riding. My 2c: save the money for parts you need to replace or upgrades that will make a noticeable difference. If you want to change your gearing, swap out the chainring, not the whole crankset and bottom bracket.

jonathanf2

I meant to say 46/30t. The crank is running fine and the bottom bracket is spinning smoothly with no issue. I was looking at lighter wheels and some other weight reduction aspects. I'll focus on those upgrades first. Thanks!

jonathanf2

Any opinions on Bicycle Wheel Warehouse wheelsets? I found an alloy wheelset they're selling on EBay and they come in at 1596g for the pair. They're rated up to 38c, but I'd probably pair them with 38c GravelKing tires either the SK or TLC.

Chilepines

Those wheels are 19.5 mm internal width. Personally I would not go with less than 23 mm internal.
FYI - There is another thread about wheels.

jonathanf2

I'm looking at swapping the fork on my bike. Current head tube angle is 71.4 degrees with a 99.5 wheelbase length. I'm thinking of swapping out for a carbon fork with a 48mm offset. I'm wondering if I should go with that or stick with a 45mm offset fork instead? I was thinking the 48mm offset would help reduce toe overlap. The two forks I'm looking at are either the Soma Fog Cutter (48mm) or the Fyxation Sparta (45mm) carbon forks both with 1 1/8 steerer tubes and QR release. I usually ride on streets and fire road trails. Thanks for any advice!

Chilepines

It depends on what you are trying to achieve with a new fork. If your problem is toe overlap the only way to fix it with the same frame is to increase the fork offset. You can easily find a fork with even more offset to gain toe clearance, but you are doing that at the expense of trail. And you have relatively low trail already.

jonathanf2

I was looking at reducing toe overlap when riding technical trails and cutting weight. I've developed good technique to avoid hitting my toes, so I guess the other reason is just for the lighter weight. I was thinking I could get a less jarring ride with a carbon fork when riding fast on the downhill fire roads.

franswa

You might have better results with larger volume tires at lower pressure and/or a redshift stem

iancredible

I'd say... getting a carbon seatpost. It's noticeable enough upgrade to the compliance--I can feel the seatpost flexing. It's also a "basic" upgrade in that it's very easy to order the part and swap it yourself. Some of the other suggestions could take more involved work.

For example:
-Tubeless tires are a great upgrade, but if your wheels currently aren't tubeless compatible, that could mean getting new wheels too.
-Getting new handlebars might be a necessity if your current ones are not the right fit, but swapping can be somewhat involved. It requires at least redoing the bar tape, and could be even more involved if there's internal routing within the handlebar.

Camilo

I have a set of Pure race rim brake wheels I bought on one of their sales (closeout of unsold?) a couple of years ago. They seem to be very good quality wheels and I've been very happy with them.

Kapusta

Did I miss where the OP describes his/her current bike?

Really hard to make upgrade recs without knowing what someone has.