Bklyn

[Two men enter, one man leaves.]

All the recent debate has inspired me to go clipless. (That and Nashbar's current 20%-off sale.) I'm tempted by the eggbeaters, but 1) it's a much higher pricepoint, and 2) they look too delicate for someone as casually clumsy as I am.

So it's down to these two.

This is the description of the M540: This pedal from Shimano is designed with a mud shedding, open binding for easier cleat engagement and release. Cro-Moly axle with 8mm Allen wrench mount. Sealed bearings. Grey/silver. 350g. $75 at Nashbar.



This is the description of the M520: A very affordable, lightweight design with an easy step in cleat retention system. Adjustable spring tension top and bottom. Cro-Moly axle with sealed bearings. Black and silver. 376g. $39 at Nashbar.



Apart from $35 and 26 grams, what is the difference?

lyledriver

The colour as well.

I've got the M540s.
They're actually my second set, as the first set had a defective bearing.

Don't let the product literature fool you, it says 'sealed cartridge axle' for the 540s, but that just means its looseball, with a dust seal.

flipped4bikes

Don't know. Don't care. What I do know is that my M520s work fine.

DataJunkie

Only $60
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true

They are by no means fragile. Mine have taken a ton of abuse.

cyccommute 

I've use the 520's since they came out. I have 5 or 6 different sets on mountain bikes and road bikes and they stand up to everything even hard core mountain biking. I haven't had one fail yet but then I've only ever broken one pedal anyway

The major difference, aside from finish, is that the 540's can't be put on with a regular wrench but have to be put on with an 8mm allen wrench. That, by itself, is enough to put me off from using them. Every tried to take off a pedal using an 8mm allen on the back side of the pedal? It ain't pretty!

LóFarkas

Not much. You can see how the 540 can't be mounted with a 15mm pedal wrenc cuz it has a different axle. An allen crank puller works, though.

Some say that the 540 has a mechanism like the XTR, not like the cheaper 520... I'm not seeing a difference btw 520 and 540.

I'd get the 520. I'm sure the bearings/mechanism/materials are marginally better on the 540, but it's not worth $36 more, I think.

bsyptak

I bought these not too long ago and they are really nice. Made by Wellgo, 295g. True SPD compatibility (98A cleat), which is a requirement because I've got diff SPD pedals on diff bikes. Excellent looking, sleek pedal.

https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...egory_ID=5240#

nitroRoo

I've had the 520s on my mtb for about 8 months. They've stood up to plenty of off road abuse and work fine. I'm still on platforms for my commuter though...

barba

The 540s are a little lighter and the bearings are nicer. They feel great when you give them a spin and they just go and go. In practice, I doubt you will feel the difference. The binding mechanism is the same. The 520s (and likely the 540s) scuff fairly easily.

The Eggbeaters are anything but delicate. They are very solid pedals.

superted

I've got the 540s and they are great, the bearings are of a higher quality than the 520s but as has been said, i think its unlikely that you'll notice the difference.

loki_1

I ride the A520 on my commuter. spd cleat with a patform. very comfortable. $55 on ebay.

I run the M540 on my mtn bike. Never had a problem removing them with an allen wrench.

CHenry

I have a set of each. Both are nice. Both work fine. The advantage of the M520s is that they free up $60 to buy something else.

sauerwald

I have the 540s on one of my bikes, and they are the best set of the pedals that I have - although that is not saying much. I have M424s on one bike, and because of the platform, they do not work with my new PI Vapor shoes - although they do work with the older PI Vapors.

Bklyn

Thanks for your help. If only I took this much care in all my life decisions....

Here's a can of worms: good shoes? How about those Adidas sneaker-looking things?

CastIron

Ditto. Use 'em on my 'cross bike. Cheap, effective, reliable.

eider.oliveira

The M520 I bought for $28 at amazon started do 'click' after less than 2 months of use. M540 seems sturdier.

noglider 

I suggest you return them if they are still under warranty. Or have a mechanic check them to see if you've left something loose.

You should know that you have revived a ten-year-old thread. That seems OK, since both pedals appear still to be in production by my googling.

Mr IGH

There's no real difference, go for the 520s and spend the left over cash on beer.

Zurichman2

I know this is a 2006 thread but I have a ? on the Shimano pedals. I had a set of PD-M540 put on my gravel bike 2 years ago. Probably less than a 1000 miles on them with no hard core mt. biking on them. The one has a bind in it already and guessing the bearing is gone in it. My LBS would probably charge me $40 - $50 to replace the bearing. Not worth it. Curious if the new PD-M9100 is just that much better of a pedal for over $100. I see I would only be saving about an ounce of weight. Would these pedals be under warranty?

Thanks
Zman

Jack Kessler

First one has to recognize that L and R pedals have opposite threads, not just on Shimano, but on all pedals. This was invented by Orville Wright to keep pedals from unscrewing themselves by precession. Second, recognize that crank arms are soft alloy while pedal shafts are hard steel. Which means that, with a little extra force, easily available with a wrench, one can strip the hell out of the crank arm threads with the 520's by turning them the wrong direction. On the 540's, without a place for a wrench, the only way to turn a pedal is with an Allen wrench from the back. Which allows too little leverage to easily strip the crank arm threads. Which means the 520's can easily strip crank arm threads and the 540's really cannot (unless one has Mighty Joe Young gorilla hands).

520's and 540's are almost identical except for a few grams and the risk of stripping the crank arm threads and stranding oneself deep in the boondocks. A moment's carelessness, or a green bike shop mech being clueless, can really ruin your day with the 520's, not with the 540's.

DorkDisk

M520 uses the older spindle with the plastic sleeve that requires a special tool and can click due to the plastic wearing. M540 uses the newer spindle that is serviceable with an adjustable wrench.



used to be included, now costs $3

Leisesturm

I have a honking big 15mm pedal wrench by Park Tools and even if I jumped on it from 3' height I would not destroy the crank-arm threads! There are a lot of threads engaged when the pedal axle is properly seated and unless the pedal is badly crossthreaded, the combination of lots of fine threads and hard alloys means ordinary human efforts will not be enough to strip threads.

Be at peace. Cheap out on the 520's in good conscience. I've never felt the need to justify them in any way. That being said, I have a pair of Crank Bros. Eggbeater pedals that use an 8mm Allen wrench for installation. I would not be as dismissive as you are about the strength of 8mm Allen wrenches. Why do so many high end pedal models use them?

A final pro tip before I go: It is not necessary (as many seem to believe) to tighten pedals with Magilla Gorilla level forces. Hand tight is more than good enough because pedals are designed to be self tightening in use! When I am working on a project bike and auditioning components, I will often install the pedals just finger tight and go for a test ride. This makes for easy swapping in the field while I try different things out. FWIW.