What unlikely tools or products do you keep in your bike repair/restoration toolbox?
#51
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shop
i have two eye dropper bottles one filled with Kroil and one filled with transmission fluid...for rusty nuts and bolts......I use guitar makers nut files to file screw driver grooves in stripped out screw heads.....way better than a hack saw blade........I use a three inch long needle in a pin vise constantly for scribing ...moving around ball bearings... decals ...cleaning valve stems and hard to reach spots......a million uses.....I made a small wooden tray with holes drilled in it to hold all my screws and bolts in the order that I removed them and a tray for all the small parts.....no more laying parts on the bench.......outside calipers for measuring seat posts and stems.........screw thread gauges a must for old bikes........carnauba paste wax protects everything from weather............home made bamboo tweezers are invaluable and a jewelers hand vice for polishing and cleaning small parts.....stick shellac for dings and chips and tons of other secret uses like stopping cables from un raveling
#52
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It is, but that's just one of the very few benefits of living in an oddly progressive/libertarian state... but I digress. Permanent magnets (like steel tools that have acquired magnetism by being introduced to a magnetic field) can lose their magnetism by banging them on solid surfaces, or banging them with a hammer (sometimes problems are a nail). See here.
#53
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end and pull the cable out the other end. Keeps the cable round. Or cut with a dremel tool. Makes a clean, round cut.
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#56
2-Wheeled Fool
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It is, but that's just one of the very few benefits of living in an oddly progressive/libertarian state... but I digress. Permanent magnets (like steel tools that have acquired magnetism by being introduced to a magnetic field) can lose their magnetism by banging them on solid surfaces, or banging them with a hammer (sometimes problems are a nail). See here.
#57
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In all these years, I can’t believe I didn’t think about putting scrap cable inside housing before I cut it...
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
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#58
tantum vehi
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We may have legalized weed, but we haven’t legalized that... that’s just wrong. I’d never call anybody Lance.
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
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#59
elcraft
using a ball shaped bur, I grind depressions into the tweezer tips to provide the “grip” for ball bearings. I am fond of a stainless steel set that is unaffected by magnetism. I think it is marked LaCrosse. If you compress a 3/8” copper pipe in a vise, split it along the two edges, by filing or grinding to a tapering point ( except the last1/2” at the wide end), you can make an acid resistant, non magnetic tweezer that is effective for placing or removing ball bearings.
Last edited by elcraft; 02-08-21 at 06:10 PM.
#60
Senior Member
The more exotic things in my shop:
- a freewheel vice made by drilling two holes in my work table. The freewheel is then bolted to the table through one hole, using a QR skewer. Then a chain whip is attached to the bottom-most cog in the freewheel. The back of the chain whip has a hole in it, which lines up to the second hole in the table. This chain whip is then secured through the hole to the table with about QR skewer. Then I use a second chain whip to unscrew the cogs. The first chain whip holds the freewheel in place and allows me to put the high level of force needed on the freewheel to loosen the cogs. The reassemble the freewheel, simply reverse the process. Cost = $0 and works with any freewheel.
- little $50 ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight. Essential for cleaning components.
- several sets of jeweler's files
- 3 foot heavy steel pipe, threaded at both ends, with different-sized adapters on both ends. used as a breaker bar, the different ends allow me to get the most snug fit over a tool.
- brass rotary brushes for my electric drill. 2 drills, one with a slow rotational speed and one with a high rotational speed. Very useful for polishing parts and removing oxidation or built up grime as well.
- Like other folks on this thread, I have my own handmade system for securely removing bottom bracket fixed cups.
- a freewheel vice made by drilling two holes in my work table. The freewheel is then bolted to the table through one hole, using a QR skewer. Then a chain whip is attached to the bottom-most cog in the freewheel. The back of the chain whip has a hole in it, which lines up to the second hole in the table. This chain whip is then secured through the hole to the table with about QR skewer. Then I use a second chain whip to unscrew the cogs. The first chain whip holds the freewheel in place and allows me to put the high level of force needed on the freewheel to loosen the cogs. The reassemble the freewheel, simply reverse the process. Cost = $0 and works with any freewheel.
- little $50 ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight. Essential for cleaning components.
- several sets of jeweler's files
- 3 foot heavy steel pipe, threaded at both ends, with different-sized adapters on both ends. used as a breaker bar, the different ends allow me to get the most snug fit over a tool.
- brass rotary brushes for my electric drill. 2 drills, one with a slow rotational speed and one with a high rotational speed. Very useful for polishing parts and removing oxidation or built up grime as well.
- Like other folks on this thread, I have my own handmade system for securely removing bottom bracket fixed cups.
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Check out www.djcatnap.com for articles on vintage Japanese & French bicycle restorations, components and history.
Check out www.djcatnap.com for articles on vintage Japanese & French bicycle restorations, components and history.
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#63
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Thread Starter
#64
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The more exotic things in my shop:
- a freewheel vice made by drilling two holes in my work table. The freewheel is then bolted to the table through one hole, using a QR skewer. Then a chain whip is attached to the bottom-most cog in the freewheel. The back of the chain whip has a hole in it, which lines up to the second hole in the table. This chain whip is then secured through the hole to the table with about QR skewer. Then I use a second chain whip to unscrew the cogs. The first chain whip holds the freewheel in place and allows me to put the high level of force needed on the freewheel to loosen the cogs. The reassemble the freewheel, simply reverse the process. Cost = $0 and works with any freewheel.
- a freewheel vice made by drilling two holes in my work table. The freewheel is then bolted to the table through one hole, using a QR skewer. Then a chain whip is attached to the bottom-most cog in the freewheel. The back of the chain whip has a hole in it, which lines up to the second hole in the table. This chain whip is then secured through the hole to the table with about QR skewer. Then I use a second chain whip to unscrew the cogs. The first chain whip holds the freewheel in place and allows me to put the high level of force needed on the freewheel to loosen the cogs. The reassemble the freewheel, simply reverse the process. Cost = $0 and works with any freewheel.
#65
Mad bike riding scientist
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Nope. Hairspray is water soluble. It comes off easier with either alcohol or water. Spray adhesive is solvent soluble and doesn’t release as easily.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#66
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#67
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I like this idea. I may not want to drill a hole through my workbench, but I can foresee a modified version on a board which I could then mount to my workbench. I have to replace one of my chain whips. It got bent in a failed attempt to remove a particularly stubborn cog. Hard to keep the angles straight with two chain whips and a wheel between the legs while bursting blood vessels like Lou Ferrigno. Do you have any photos of your setup?
#68
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I utilize my vice as well. I fabricated replacement jaws with oak and drilled holes for 2 bolts on each, 3/8 " IIRC. Placed the holes, thus the bolts such that they would engage the largest cog on each side. This works pretty well but not quite well enough. I can tell the oak will fail on me eventually. Should have them made from steel. The vice sure is solid though.
#69
señor miembro
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For some, a vise is their vice.
And if that's the case, I'm not sure we need all the details.
And if that's the case, I'm not sure we need all the details.
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#70
Abuse Magnet
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RemOil, a light, slick, and tenacious gun lubricant. It's like TriFlo, but oilier and with less solvents. I use it as a chain lube, but there's a lot of uses for it.
#72
Full Member
A block of Paraffin To lube cables, a tube of Permatex Blue RTV instant gasket maker to keep all threaded things from unthreading, A pair of rail nipers to cut nilon ties. and a four leged furrry helper
#73
Full Member
The long discontinued Craftsman 45492. This is some kind of snap ring plier but when I spotted it in the Sears tool department 20 years ago I knew exactly what it was made for.
It is perfect for prying and holding open stems and seat tube ears. No scratches on my handlebars or seat posts....ever!
It is perfect for prying and holding open stems and seat tube ears. No scratches on my handlebars or seat posts....ever!
#74
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I see I'm not the only one who uses the washer as tool stand and has a cat that watches to make sure I'm doing it right.