1x12 Lightweight Full Suspension Trail MTB: Let's Spend Lots of Money!
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1x12 Lightweight Full Suspension Trail MTB: Let's Spend Lots of Money!
Terrain:
I'm looking to buy a mountain bike that can easily handle "trail" at the least, where the terrain I want to ride is a mixture of flowy and technical. I live in PA where we are nicknamed "rocksylvania", and the trails tend to look like hiking trails with lots of up and down elevation. Not sure what travel suspension would be best for this.
Geometry:
27.5 vs 29 - I am open to either, however I'd like to maybe use this to commute to and from trails where a 29er would be best. But not sure how I can have a 29er while still having a balance of nimble and downhill capability. Does that equate to a specific head tube angle I should look for?
There are often medium sized logs on trails, where I don't want to hit my bottom bracket, but nothing crazy high.
Drivetrain:
I'd like the drivetrain to be 1x12 for maximum range, mainly for steep climbs, but with the newer GX Eagle if it saves money.
Weight:
I am hoping to get a mtb that is around 30 lbs or less, if possible.
Conclusion:
Thanks for helping! I'd like actual bikes to compare which helps introduce me to specs to learn about. No budget, but don't want to spend money unnecessarily.
I'm looking to buy a mountain bike that can easily handle "trail" at the least, where the terrain I want to ride is a mixture of flowy and technical. I live in PA where we are nicknamed "rocksylvania", and the trails tend to look like hiking trails with lots of up and down elevation. Not sure what travel suspension would be best for this.
Geometry:
27.5 vs 29 - I am open to either, however I'd like to maybe use this to commute to and from trails where a 29er would be best. But not sure how I can have a 29er while still having a balance of nimble and downhill capability. Does that equate to a specific head tube angle I should look for?
There are often medium sized logs on trails, where I don't want to hit my bottom bracket, but nothing crazy high.
Drivetrain:
I'd like the drivetrain to be 1x12 for maximum range, mainly for steep climbs, but with the newer GX Eagle if it saves money.
Weight:
I am hoping to get a mtb that is around 30 lbs or less, if possible.
Conclusion:
Thanks for helping! I'd like actual bikes to compare which helps introduce me to specs to learn about. No budget, but don't want to spend money unnecessarily.
Last edited by lmike6453; 09-24-17 at 05:44 PM.
#2
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Once you spend enough to get a bike stock with a 1x12 you are already at the higher end of high end bikes so the under 30lbs requirement won't be a problem. Something like a Santa Cruz 5010 would be about right. 130mm of travel 27.5 and only $6800 to get a build with your 1x12 setup. Throw in a few more bucks for a bash guard.
#3
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Trek Fuel EX (29er) has been a much-praised bike the last few years. Lots of sizes. Lots of dealers. Aluminum or carbon fiber.
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Another option that climbs well and truly shines when it gets chunky (up or down).
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I'm running a Jones Plus which does 29+ with ease. No suspension but I find I can get through the single track faster than I could on a suspension bike. I use a Rolhoff, which has more range than the Eagle, with a steel frame still under 30 pounds but just barely.
The only full squish I know of that didn't absorb energy on the pedal strokes was/is the Tantrum, which has a pretty interesting setup for the rear suspension.
I'm more into distance bikepacking, so what works for me may not be your gig; there's a lot of variance in what might be called a 'mountain bike'...
The only full squish I know of that didn't absorb energy on the pedal strokes was/is the Tantrum, which has a pretty interesting setup for the rear suspension.
I'm more into distance bikepacking, so what works for me may not be your gig; there's a lot of variance in what might be called a 'mountain bike'...
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Terrain:
I'm looking to buy a mountain bike that can easily handle "trail" at the least, where the terrain I want to ride is a mixture of flowy and technical. I live in PA where we are nicknamed "rocksylvania", and the trails tend to look like hiking trails with lots of up and down elevation. Not sure what travel suspension would be best for this.
Geometry:
27.5 vs 29 - I am open to either, however I'd like to maybe use this to commute to and from trails where a 29er would be best. But not sure how I can have a 29er while still having a balance of nimble and downhill capability. Does that equate to a specific head tube angle I should look for?
There are often medium sized logs on trails, where I don't want to hit my bottom bracket, but nothing crazy high.
I'm looking to buy a mountain bike that can easily handle "trail" at the least, where the terrain I want to ride is a mixture of flowy and technical. I live in PA where we are nicknamed "rocksylvania", and the trails tend to look like hiking trails with lots of up and down elevation. Not sure what travel suspension would be best for this.
Geometry:
27.5 vs 29 - I am open to either, however I'd like to maybe use this to commute to and from trails where a 29er would be best. But not sure how I can have a 29er while still having a balance of nimble and downhill capability. Does that equate to a specific head tube angle I should look for?
There are often medium sized logs on trails, where I don't want to hit my bottom bracket, but nothing crazy high.
Geometry & Supension: Bikes are pretty much made based on their intended use, mainly these 4: XC, Trail, Enduro, and DH bikes. Once you gain more bunny hop or back wheel lift skill, you really shouldn't be hitting logs or rocks on your bottom bracket. Even on a 26'er. Also- most bikes tend to come with protection for the bottom bracket. Usually a thicker piece of plastic or carbon.
Trail bikes and Enduro bikes are seen as the "do it all" bikes, but I lean towards Trail bikes for beginners. Hell, I race XC in Sport class on an enduro bike so all of this doesn't matter that much.
90-110mm XC, Cross Country Bike - XC bikes are light and nimble (even 29'ers) because of the short wheelbase. It can be taxing to ride over rough terrain with less travel. You get one of these if you know you're going to be racing or want to focus on climbing. Aggressive position usually has the handlebars lower than the seat. This makes lifting the front end a bit harder but puts down power better.
120-140 - Trail Bike I think for you 120-140mm of suspension travel is what you want. It's the sweet spot. Not a lot of power loss, position isn't too aggressive, still nimble and can climb. Higher bars to get that front wheel up and feel comfortable on descends over rock gardens.
150-170 - Enduro - If you don't know what suspension you need then 150mm+ is a bit too much. It has a long wheelbase and makes a lot of squish when you pedal. If you want to jump the bike, it takes more effort to pre-load 160mm of suspension so it can be more fatiguing to ride or difficult to lift the front end of the bike. Yes you can set up your suspension and use remote lock outs but man, don't complicate cycling! I don't recommend Enduro.
170+ - Downhill - You're not going to need this.
You wanna ride trails, get a trail bike, here are my suggestions for 27 and 29" in Sram GX spec. Assuming you're from the USA.
$5300 Niner RDO JET 9 RDO 3-STAR
29'"
120mm Travel
$5400 Yeti SB 5.5 Yeti Cycles - SB5.5
29"
140mm Travel
$5300 Evil Calling https://www.evil-bikes.com/products/calling
27.5"
140mm Travel
In the end, all bikes are cool. Get what you think looks cool and you'll never go wrong!
Last edited by Panza; 10-18-17 at 10:58 AM.
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$5400 Yeti Cycles - SB5.5
29"
140mm Travel
In the end, all bikes are cool. Get what you think looks cool and you'll never go wrong!
29"
140mm Travel
In the end, all bikes are cool. Get what you think looks cool and you'll never go wrong!
Panza is giving you pearls OP ---
I have the pre-cursor to the SB 5.5 , the SB-95, a 2014 model. I will simply add that Yeti's suspension design is rock solid, whether one went with the 5.5 or the 4.5 (4.5 is a bit less burly - and lighter )
My SB 95 alloy frame bike with alloy Race Face wheels hovers around 29 pounds with a 1x11 XTR group. I'm sure the carbon frame 5.5 can get its weight down to this level with careful parts selection, but the SB 4.5 should weigh a couple of pounds lighter still
My 2014 has 126mm travel in the rear and 140 up front , and it is more than capable of running any blue line downhill trail and most of the blacks , while still being firm enough to be my main ride ---
For an all -rounder, I don't feel the need for much more than 126mm of rear travel with a 29'er as the big wheels themselves also help to roll over things
I don't really have a true need to replace my bike, but if I did replace it, it would be with the SB 5.5 and a set of carbon hoops from Lightweight Bicycle
Another one that piques my interest is Evil's "The Following" -- a 120mm 29'er -- but again, my 3 year old Yeti is so good, I don't feel compelled to replace it yet, but the Evil looks like a competitor to the SB 4.5
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Panza is giving you pearls OP ---
I have the pre-cursor to the SB 5.5 , the SB-95, a 2014 model. I will simply add that Yeti's suspension design is rock solid, whether one went with the 5.5 or the 4.5 (4.5 is a bit less burly - and lighter )
I don't really have a true need to replace my bike, but if I did replace it, it would be with the SB 5.5 and a set of carbon hoops from Lightweight Bicycle
Another one that piques my interest is Evil's "The Following" -- a 120mm 29'er -- but again, my 3 year old Yeti is so good, I don't feel compelled to replace it yet, but the Evil looks like a competitor to the SB 4.5
I have the pre-cursor to the SB 5.5 , the SB-95, a 2014 model. I will simply add that Yeti's suspension design is rock solid, whether one went with the 5.5 or the 4.5 (4.5 is a bit less burly - and lighter )
I don't really have a true need to replace my bike, but if I did replace it, it would be with the SB 5.5 and a set of carbon hoops from Lightweight Bicycle
Another one that piques my interest is Evil's "The Following" -- a 120mm 29'er -- but again, my 3 year old Yeti is so good, I don't feel compelled to replace it yet, but the Evil looks like a competitor to the SB 4.5
I'm living vicariously through OP. I wish I had a $5K budget when I started MTBing or could afford a fancy sub 30lbs carbon fiber rig. I had an aluminum cross bike which I sold to help me pay for my budget FS aluminum enduro bike. It has good components and wheelsets so I can't complain.
$4900 Santa Cruz HighTower https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/hightower
Here's the Santa Cruz HighTower. A lot of people swear by Santa Cruz and for good reason.
Sram GX Eagle spec will only run you $4900 for 27.5 OR 29"
You can save that $400 and get yourself a pair of pedals $100, shoes $100, Schwalbe Magic Mary tubeless tires $100, a tubeless kit $30, and then get like 4 derailleur hangers $60. Yeah. 4.
For the record, 27.5+ is about the same height as 29" but that footprint accomodates for 2.8" tires vs 2.25-2.35" tires from standard widths. The wider footprint helps cling onto rocks and roots as you climb and makes for a plush ride. You can also stick 27.5's on there if you're feeling racy.
Last edited by Panza; 10-18-17 at 10:58 AM.
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