Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Why don't (old?) bike designs have slotted stems or bike posts?

Search
Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Why don't (old?) bike designs have slotted stems or bike posts?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-09-20, 12:43 AM
  #1  
CaptainPlanet
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 71 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Why don't (old?) bike designs have slotted stems or bike posts?

Being a bike maintenance noob, I think I might have spent upward of an hour every time I readjust the stem. I always feel like it's not aligned and I get stuck in a loop trying to realign it, overshoot, repeat. If the fork is simply manufactured with a slottle tip so that the stem can only fit onto it one way and fully aligned, then there will be no problems.

Has anyone ever attempted it? If not, was it a structural strength issue? or manufacturing cost?

Bike posts have this issue too, but aligning it s much easier because you can just look at the bike tube for reference.
CaptainPlanet is offline  
Old 05-09-20, 06:32 AM
  #2  
freeranger
Senior Member
 
freeranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,601

Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked 700 Times in 436 Posts
As to bike posts (assuming means seat post)--not everyone rides with their seat pointed exactly straight ahead-some will have it angled a little to the left or right. Forks are made with the steerers longer than needed, to fit whatever bike they are to be used on. Head tubes are not all the same length, and the fork steerer must be cut to size to fit the bike. A slot, if it went all the way down the steerer tube might catch and/or rub on loose bearings. My take on it, anyway.
freeranger is offline  
Likes For freeranger:
Old 05-09-20, 06:43 AM
  #3  
Miele Man
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,624

Bikes: iele Latina, Miele Suprema, Miele Uno LS, Miele Miele Beta, MMTB, Bianchi Model Unknown, Fiori Venezia, Fiori Napoli, VeloSport Adamas AX

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1324 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times in 640 Posts
Originally Posted by freeranger
As to bike posts (assuming means seat post)--not everyone rides with their seat pointed exactly straight ahead-some will have it angled a little to the left or right. Forks are made with the steerers longer than needed, to fit whatever bike they are to be used on. Head tubes are not all the same length, and the fork steerer must be cut to size to fit the bike. A slot, if it went all the way down the steerer tube might catch and/or rub on loose bearings. My take on it, anyway.
So true! Years ago I spent a very long time getting my bike set up just right for me. that involved having the handlebar set just a bit off center to the right a few degrees to compensate for a shoulder that wouldn't allow me to reach the handlebar comfortably. Ditto for the seatpost. I had the bike in a shop to get a couple of items installed and when they returned the bike to me they said, "we noticed the seatpost and stem weren't at 90 degrees so we straightened them for you for no extra charge". I was a bit upset but figured no problem. I told them that the offsets were deliberate and asked to borrow two hex keys so I could reset them to what I needed.

Oh, i keep my stem snugged up but not so tight that it can't turn in a fall whilst riding. If the stem was keyed to the fork I couldn't do that. Being able to do that has save a handlebar from serious damage a couple of time over the decades.

Cheers
Miele Man is offline  
Old 05-09-20, 07:37 AM
  #4  
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 364 Posts
Try closing one eye while you align your handlebars.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Likes For Retro Grouch:
Old 05-09-20, 08:13 AM
  #5  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,517

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times in 2,058 Posts
Before you take it apart put a dot on the stem and headset with a sharpie and line them back up when you reinstall
dedhed is offline  
Likes For dedhed:
Old 05-09-20, 08:56 AM
  #6  
Moe Zhoost
Half way there
 
Moe Zhoost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,957

Bikes: Many, and the list changes frequently

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 987 Post(s)
Liked 880 Times in 527 Posts
I've never seen a stem with a slottle tip. I'm also incredibly surprised that the term slottle was not torpedoed by the forum censor.
Moe Zhoost is offline  
Likes For Moe Zhoost:
Old 05-09-20, 09:01 AM
  #7  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,909

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4806 Post(s)
Liked 3,932 Times in 2,557 Posts
I center the tire on the front of the stem, then check to make sure the amount of spoke showing on either side of the tire is identical. (A tiny bit off makes for a big difference in seen spoke lengths.)

Like many, I set my seats a little to the left. Also used to set my my right brake hood inboard. Now I do both. (Helps after broken collar bones. I've done both sides and am back to symmetrical.)
79pmooney is offline  
Old 05-09-20, 09:04 AM
  #8  
BobbyG
Senior Member
 
BobbyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 5,974

Bikes: 2015 Charge Plug, 2007 Dahon Boardwalk, 1997 Nishiki Blazer, 1984 Nishiki International, 2006 Felt F65, 1989 Dahon Getaway V

Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1364 Post(s)
Liked 1,678 Times in 827 Posts
A seatpost "slottle" would preclude "dressing left" or "dressing right".
BobbyG is offline  
Old 05-09-20, 09:50 AM
  #9  
PoorInRichfield
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Richfield, WI
Posts: 720

Bikes: Trek Domane SL7 Disc, Cannondale F29

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 389 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times in 186 Posts
I totally agree with you, OP.

I've been a bike-o-holic for over 30 years (since BMX bikes in the early 80's) and can't believe that with all the advances in technology and all the changes to "standards", a standard hasn't arisen to simply make handlebar alignment a no-brainer task. As you stated, a simple channel in the fork tube and a corresponding bump in the stem clam would resolve this alignment issue.

I've watched all sorts of videos for tips on how to align handlebars and haven't been happy with any of them as they all pretty much come down to "eyeballing" the handlebars against some other parallel object and I always feel like my bars still aren't straight. I would think that Park would've devised some kind of tool for quickly aligning the bars so as to save mechanics a lot of time, but nope... no such tool exists.

My 2020 Trek Domane finally alleviated the seat-post alignment issue as the seat post is not round so it only fits on the bike completely straight. Back-in-the-day when aftermarket parts were a bigger deal (and most bike frames where round-tubed steel), people would balk at the idea of a non-round, non-standard seat post as that prevented using aftermarket parts. Today's bikes come in all shapes and sizes due to their carbon make-up and whatever post the bike comes with is usually the one that stays... so I'm glad that Trek finally killed the round seat post on my bike.
PoorInRichfield is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 02:27 AM
  #10  
CaptainPlanet
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 71 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
So it's more of a fitting and freedom thing than an engineering issue. I never thought of that before. Always thought bikes should be perfectly symmetrical, but then human bodies are not really that symmetrical. Interesting point.
CaptainPlanet is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 05:25 AM
  #11  
Miele Man
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,624

Bikes: iele Latina, Miele Suprema, Miele Uno LS, Miele Miele Beta, MMTB, Bianchi Model Unknown, Fiori Venezia, Fiori Napoli, VeloSport Adamas AX

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1324 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times in 640 Posts
Originally Posted by CaptainPlanet
So it's more of a fitting and freedom thing than an engineering issue. I never thought of that before. Always thought bikes should be perfectly symmetrical, but then human bodies are not really that symmetrical. Interesting point.
Also it'd take a pretty fine bit of machining to get a god fit between a keyed stem and fork. In other words, it's a solution looking for a problem and not something probably 99.9% of bicyclists need let alone want.

Cheers
Miele Man is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 09:33 AM
  #12  
woodcraft
Senior Member
 
woodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 6,016
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1814 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 923 Times in 569 Posts
Stems and seatposts frequently get stuck from corrosion,

Not being able to rotate the parts would make it much harder to deal with that.
woodcraft is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 09:42 AM
  #13  
unterhausen
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,400
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times in 2,519 Posts
You would need a puller to get them out if they were keyed. Virtually impossible for a seatpost without some extra design elements.
unterhausen is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 10:04 AM
  #14  
JustinOldPhart
Junior Samples
 
JustinOldPhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 83

Bikes: '74 Eisentraut, '94 Univega Alpina Pro, KLR650, R1200RT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts
I thought I was, if not the only one, in a very small minority by not having my seat perfectly straight. I have learned that we are a community!
We need to demand our rights, but let's not let a left-vs-right schism develop.

My handlebars are perfectly aligned, handlebar 90 degrees to the axis of the wheel, but I would not want something in place that had to shear in the event of a mishap. I want the stem to rotate in the steerer tube.

My seat lug has a vertical point at the front. A long time ago I put a dimple right at the top of that point so that I could easily R&R the seat post and get it back in place at the proper height and alignment. I R&R the seat post every couple of years and clean the inside and apply a bit of grease to the seat post before it goes back in. Just maintenance.
JustinOldPhart is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 11:16 AM
  #15  
FiftySix
I'm the anecdote.
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: S.E. Texas
Posts: 1,822

Bikes: '12 Schwinn, '13 Norco

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1110 Post(s)
Liked 1,176 Times in 795 Posts
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Try closing one eye while you align your handlebars.
If any one wears perspective curving glasses like I do, I look with the left eye closed then the right eye closed and try to pick a visual average between each view to get things straight.
FiftySix is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 01:08 PM
  #16  
Geekage
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 191
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Liked 28 Times in 21 Posts
In the past, manufacturing tolerances- especially of small scale, handmade frames- meant that alignment wouldn't be that great. It seems that any alignment features would often be more troublesome than helpful, and they would just add unnecessary labor and cost.

Also, any slot on the steerer tube would make it weaker and increase the chance of failure, unless the steerer were made thicker and heavier. Sure, old style threaded steerer tubes did have slots on them, but those slots weren't much deeper than the external threading, and the quill stem reinforced that area.

With practice, you should be able to align the handlebar in under a minute to, say half a degree. Longer if you need it even straighter.

Originally Posted by PoorInRichfield
I would think that Park would've devised some kind of tool for quickly aligning the bars so as to save mechanics a lot of time, but nope... no such tool exists.
There is at least one laser handlebar alignment tool- not made by Park- available on the market, in addition to one you can 3D print yourself.
Geekage is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 01:46 PM
  #17  
Buzzkill53120
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 128

Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 2019, Trek Trek Madone 5.1 (2011), Trek 1400 (1991)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Liked 74 Times in 33 Posts
Originally Posted by CaptainPlanet
Being a bike maintenance noob, I think I might have spent upward of an hour every time I readjust the stem. I always feel like it's not aligned and I get stuck in a loop trying to realign it, overshoot, repeat. If the fork is simply manufactured with a slottle tip so that the stem can only fit onto it one way and fully aligned, then there will be no problems.

Has anyone ever attempted it? If not, was it a structural strength issue? or manufacturing cost?

Bike posts have this issue too, but aligning it s much easier because you can just look at the bike tube for reference.
Really? Do we really need a solution for this "problem". I too am a little OCD about alignment, however the solution(s) suggested is a bit much for the additional cost and complexity. People it's not that hard.
Buzzkill53120 is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 02:20 PM
  #18  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,517

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times in 2,058 Posts
https://bikerumor.com/2018/01/17/rev...tune-spurtreu/
dedhed is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 02:23 PM
  #19  
Leebo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North of Boston
Posts: 5,721

Bikes: Kona Dawg, Surly 1x1, Karate Monkey, Rockhopper, Crosscheck , Burley Runabout,

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 854 Post(s)
Liked 111 Times in 66 Posts
A ruler, tape measure or piece of string will work.
Leebo is offline  
Old 05-10-20, 11:19 PM
  #20  
Camilo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1109 Post(s)
Liked 1,200 Times in 760 Posts
Honest question: those of you that are bothered by slightly off handlebars when you're in the shop (garage, basement, living room) adjusting them - does it really actually bother you once you get moving on the road? Do you squint down the stem to the tire and make sure it's lined up? Do you think it affects your fun, speed, whatever? Or do you just ride and steer the bike right or left as needed and it's the last thing on your mind?

Handlebars need only be square enough, and that isn't very precise, frankly. If you're noticing a tiny bit off , that eyeballing it isn't good enough, well, they make medication for that. Just kind of kidding. When I'm initially adjusting bars, I've noticed handlebars slightly off and it bothers me enough to try to get it better. But I've never actually noticed it while riding. or if I do, I don't care. But I'm not OCD, a trained scientist or engineer.... far, far from it.

Many have also mentioned off center saddles as a fit issue. I do the same. It helps my ergonomics. I also have my brake lever hoods adjusted differenlty on the bars since my right arm can't go as straight as my left (which also can't go straight).
Camilo is offline  
Old 05-11-20, 09:51 AM
  #21  
subgrade
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Saulkrasti, Latvia
Posts: 898

Bikes: Focus Crater Lake

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 391 Post(s)
Liked 337 Times in 204 Posts
^ Agreed with the poster above. Although I always try aligning everything the best I can, I have never actually felt any minute offset while riding. In fact, sometime ago I discovered that I had ridden for well over a year with my handlebar 5mm off center, resulting in one side of it being 1cm wider than the other (flat bar, 640mm length). I never noticed it, and I didn't feel any change in handling after I centered the handlebar.
subgrade is offline  
Old 05-11-20, 10:24 AM
  #22  
79pmooney
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,909

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4806 Post(s)
Liked 3,932 Times in 2,557 Posts
I just has a rather amusing thought - our handlebars being a mm or three off to one side makes absolutely no difference to anything on the bike while riding except to that grey blob between our ears, Yet it is so important that we be able to dial it in exactly because it we detect the slightest bit off, it may bug us to crazy over a 5 hour ride! (And if we didn't looked down, we would never know.)

It's like missing the dish on a wheel by a couple of mm. Yes, it matters to swapping wheels cleanly. And tire clearance on very close bikes. But for the rest? Just grey matter stuff. Right up there with drive-side photos, correct locations of labels, etc.

Ben
79pmooney is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.