Mini Pump Decision
#26
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The lezyne micro floor drive weighs only about 160 grams, reversible presta/schrader, HV or normal volume available, and can also have an inline pressure gauge optionally. It is fantastic with two small niggles
1. Use you palm on the tiny T handle, otherwise, the little handle is awkward
2. Screwing it on takes care. Either make sure your valve cores are tight or make sure no lateral force is applied when unscrewing......basically keep the chuck vertical inline with the presta valve and you are GTG. Pull to the side and you will unscrew a loose valve core.
I just carry two CO2 now that I am back on tubeless but that pump goes on every ride with clinchers.
1. Use you palm on the tiny T handle, otherwise, the little handle is awkward
2. Screwing it on takes care. Either make sure your valve cores are tight or make sure no lateral force is applied when unscrewing......basically keep the chuck vertical inline with the presta valve and you are GTG. Pull to the side and you will unscrew a loose valve core.
I just carry two CO2 now that I am back on tubeless but that pump goes on every ride with clinchers.
#27
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#29
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No experience with either Lezyne or Silca pumps. I've been using two versions of Topeak Race Rocket for years that have a similar screw on hose as the Lezyne pumps.
In the case of Topeaks, the hose is permanently attached to the pump and can handle both presta and schrader valves. Not as pretty as the Lezyne or the Silca...
I have unscrewed valve cores a couple of times. If the valve cores are tight, then it shouldn't be a problem. Also, I've heard of people lightly greasing the threads of the valves to avoid the pump head sticking to the valve core.
To be honest, I don't use the mini pumps that often. I guess I don't puncture that much, maybe 2-3 times per year.
In the case of Topeaks, the hose is permanently attached to the pump and can handle both presta and schrader valves. Not as pretty as the Lezyne or the Silca...
I have unscrewed valve cores a couple of times. If the valve cores are tight, then it shouldn't be a problem. Also, I've heard of people lightly greasing the threads of the valves to avoid the pump head sticking to the valve core.
To be honest, I don't use the mini pumps that often. I guess I don't puncture that much, maybe 2-3 times per year.
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And yet, the Lezyne uses less strokes and less effort to put in the same amount of air as the Tattico does. The Tattico takes 193 strokes to get to 80 psi while taking more physical strength, while the Lezyne Road Drive long takes just 117 with a lot less effort. I think I would much prefer using 76 less strokes and less effort over using a 33 gram heavier "solid" feeling pump.
"Inside hides Silca’s cup seal instead of more basic o-rings – meaning the pump shows no signs of air loss once hot. The volume is decent but is nicely balanced to provide an easy action at higher pressures."
#31
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#32
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I just purchased and compared the Silca Tattico with the Lezyne Road Drive (large), and in a nutshell, I'll be returning the Tattico. Though the Tattico is solid, it failed in three ways: 1) it weighs 53 grams more than the Lezyne 2) it's pump head failed to hold onto a Tubolto stem (which is important to me), whereas the Lezyne was solid. And most importantly, @100 strokes the Lezyne pumped 35.5 psi, and the Tattico a dismal 21psi. On the plus side for the Tattico, it doesn't get warm while pumping like the Lezyne does. But that wasn't enough to sway me. Regarding the reputation of valve stems unscrewing on the Tubolitos with a screw-on chuck (and other brands with the same valve/stem set up), Tubolito now glues the valve into the stem...and if (after releasing the pump pressure with the ABS button) the valve unscrews, the Lezyne has a built in valve stem tool.
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#35
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Plus at least one. I have had a lot of pumps, most of which I sent back because either the number of strokes was too high, some upwards of 500! Most was because they could not pump my tires to even 70 pounds, and that took a huge effort, not to mention the 500 stroke range.
Topeak Race Rocket HP, and the Lezyne Road Drive long version, both do great but the Lezyne does it about 50 strokes less, and with a bit less effort.
With any mini pump size matters, those tiny little pumps will be lucky to get to 50 psi while doing so at around 500 strokes.
There was an article done by Velo on 45 different pumps, all the pumps they tested did not pass or did so marginally, but what they said was the two pumps I listed, and I own both of them, were the best. That article is no longer avail on Velo though. Don't trust YouTube on pump testing, those dopes won't test to standard road pressure, if they test it all, they won't show you how the pumping went so you can find out how many strokes it took, or see the pain in their faces as they try to get the pump up to the tire pressure. No pump will reach their acclaimed 160 psi or whatever is on the box, not even Lezyne! Not sure how they get those figures, but it wasn't by human strength. I've had pumps split their internals, or blow the end caps off from trying to get near 90 and they were rated for 160! I've sent back about 15 pumps that failed either in getting anywhere near the desire pressure or blowing apart over the years, and only kept the Lezyne and the Topeak. I do have an old SKS carbon race rocket, that thing takes quite a bit of effort and strokes to get to 90, but it will do it, but it is very tiring and painful, plus the pump body gets very hot, carbon fiber cannot dissipate the heat like other materials, so it just builds and builds from the friction.
Topeak Race Rocket HP, and the Lezyne Road Drive long version, both do great but the Lezyne does it about 50 strokes less, and with a bit less effort.
With any mini pump size matters, those tiny little pumps will be lucky to get to 50 psi while doing so at around 500 strokes.
There was an article done by Velo on 45 different pumps, all the pumps they tested did not pass or did so marginally, but what they said was the two pumps I listed, and I own both of them, were the best. That article is no longer avail on Velo though. Don't trust YouTube on pump testing, those dopes won't test to standard road pressure, if they test it all, they won't show you how the pumping went so you can find out how many strokes it took, or see the pain in their faces as they try to get the pump up to the tire pressure. No pump will reach their acclaimed 160 psi or whatever is on the box, not even Lezyne! Not sure how they get those figures, but it wasn't by human strength. I've had pumps split their internals, or blow the end caps off from trying to get near 90 and they were rated for 160! I've sent back about 15 pumps that failed either in getting anywhere near the desire pressure or blowing apart over the years, and only kept the Lezyne and the Topeak. I do have an old SKS carbon race rocket, that thing takes quite a bit of effort and strokes to get to 90, but it will do it, but it is very tiring and painful, plus the pump body gets very hot, carbon fiber cannot dissipate the heat like other materials, so it just builds and builds from the friction.
#36
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Aside from its other positive characteristics, part of the magic here is that Lezyne offers the Road Drive in a "large" size.
Although not as large as a full-sized frame pump, it's substantially larger than many mini pumps. I'm carrying mine on the frame, next to a bottle cage, and neither the size nor the weight is a deal-killer for me.
Although not as large as a full-sized frame pump, it's substantially larger than many mini pumps. I'm carrying mine on the frame, next to a bottle cage, and neither the size nor the weight is a deal-killer for me.
#37
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This really is a problem. I put up with it because I love the idea of the threaded rather than snap-on pump-head. Peaty's, and probably many others, make valve stem caps that are also valve core tighteners. Or just pack the little blue Park tool $10 one.
#38
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I don't use any threadlocker, but I do make it a point to check the tightness of the valve core whenever I put a new tube into my saddle bag. When using the pump, I don't tighten the chuck much more than necessary to get it to seal, and I use the bleed valve on the chuck to relieve any pressure in the hose before removing it. So far, so good.
#39
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I have yet to be bitten by this, but I can imagine the frustration of having a valve core go flying off into the grass on the shoulder of the rural highways I ride.
I don't use any threadlocker, but I do make it a point to check the tightness of the valve core whenever I put a new tube into my saddle bag. When using the pump, I don't tighten the chuck much more than necessary to get it to seal, and I use the bleed valve on the chuck to relieve any pressure in the hose before removing it. So far, so good.
I don't use any threadlocker, but I do make it a point to check the tightness of the valve core whenever I put a new tube into my saddle bag. When using the pump, I don't tighten the chuck much more than necessary to get it to seal, and I use the bleed valve on the chuck to relieve any pressure in the hose before removing it. So far, so good.
Someone mentioned that their hand pump has a valve core tool on it, which is ideal.
I wouldn't put thread lock or anything on the valve core, because you do need to be able to get it out, sometimes during a ride.
#40
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Someone should have invented the left-handed valve core thread.
#41
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I have the full-length Silca frame pump. It was eye-wateringly expensive, but is great.
#42
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#43
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I just checked. My floor pump claims to have that, too. Who knew?
#44
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I have yet to be bitten by this, but I can imagine the frustration of having a valve core go flying off into the grass on the shoulder of the rural highways I ride.
I don't use any threadlocker, but I do make it a point to check the tightness of the valve core whenever I put a new tube into my saddle bag. When using the pump, I don't tighten the chuck much more than necessary to get it to seal, and I use the bleed valve on the chuck to relieve any pressure in the hose before removing it. So far, so good.
I don't use any threadlocker, but I do make it a point to check the tightness of the valve core whenever I put a new tube into my saddle bag. When using the pump, I don't tighten the chuck much more than necessary to get it to seal, and I use the bleed valve on the chuck to relieve any pressure in the hose before removing it. So far, so good.
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#45
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I have a full size Zefal, same performance as the Silca but at a much lower cost, my first one I had lasted 40 some odd years, I just had to replace it last year, and I replaced it with another Zefal, the Zefal is built like a tank too. I don't use the Zefal on any of my road bikes, but it's on my touring bike to make pumping a lot easier and faster.
#46
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As a Lezyne owner (floor pumps and mini pumps) I always tighten my valve cores before I install it pack a tube. It's happened to me both at home and on the road, even with pre-tightening, but I have valve tools (and my mini multi tool has a valve tool on it as well) so it's never been unfixable and I still like to use my Lezyne pumps.
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#47
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I have the Lezyne Pocket Drive and it's terrible. 1 in 3 attempts will result in the valve core coming out and that's not acceptable. I've now relegated it to the junk drawer but not before having to walk my bike twice in the last month when it failed. The integrated valve core tool should be included on all models or one included in the box.
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I’ve been carrying Lezyne Road Drive pumps for over 10 years, and have them on three bikes. I don’t think I’ve pulled a valve core more than once, and besides not remembering, it wasn’t a crisis: I just threaded it back in.
How is this a big deal for people? Bad technique, maybe? As a tip, spin the pump straight off the valve; don’t pull it sideways and load up the valve
How is this a big deal for people? Bad technique, maybe? As a tip, spin the pump straight off the valve; don’t pull it sideways and load up the valve
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#49
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I’ve been carrying Lezyne Road Drive pumps for over 10 years, and have them on three bikes. I don’t think I’ve pulled a valve core more than once, and besides not remembering, it wasn’t a crisis: I just threaded it back in.
How is this a big deal for people? Bad technique, maybe? As a tip, spin the pump straight off the valve; don’t pull it sideways and load up the valve
How is this a big deal for people? Bad technique, maybe? As a tip, spin the pump straight off the valve; don’t pull it sideways and load up the valve
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Can't rule out user technique but it's something that when it happens once, the user usually becomes more careful to avoid future instances. For those who have not experienced this, it might be that your tubes did not have removable cores, or that some tubes have cores that are installed more securely from factory.
I have no brand loyalty when it comes to tubes, I buy what's cheap and what valve length and tube size fits my needs. I also tend to buy periodically at bulk (so a 4-8 pack at a time, once every couple of years), so if a particular brand or model of tube is susceptible then all the tubes in the same lot might be as well.
It could also be that user error early on caused some damage to the threads in my chuck, causing it to be more likely to cross threaded a valve core and unthread it from the valve when removing the chuck.
I have no brand loyalty when it comes to tubes, I buy what's cheap and what valve length and tube size fits my needs. I also tend to buy periodically at bulk (so a 4-8 pack at a time, once every couple of years), so if a particular brand or model of tube is susceptible then all the tubes in the same lot might be as well.
It could also be that user error early on caused some damage to the threads in my chuck, causing it to be more likely to cross threaded a valve core and unthread it from the valve when removing the chuck.