Gifted Basso
#51
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You could use some rubbing compound on the areas touched up and sometimes it will blend the touch-up to the original.
Starting to look like something!
Did some touch-up enamel over the bad rust spots and it looks terrible. It might have been cooler to just spray the spots with some rattle can primer. Never too late for spray paint! I thought I could use the clamp style NR downtube shifters from my International, but realized you have to destroy them to do that. I hate DT shifters anyway! I had some adapters and some power-ratchets, so that’s what it gets! The brakes had rock-hard Scott Mathauser pads and holders, but I had some Kool Stops, so those will do for now. Maybe I’ll bend the fourth tab off the aluminum holders and give it a go? I had some Pasella 28s and they fit with room to spare.
Did some touch-up enamel over the bad rust spots and it looks terrible. It might have been cooler to just spray the spots with some rattle can primer. Never too late for spray paint! I thought I could use the clamp style NR downtube shifters from my International, but realized you have to destroy them to do that. I hate DT shifters anyway! I had some adapters and some power-ratchets, so that’s what it gets! The brakes had rock-hard Scott Mathauser pads and holders, but I had some Kool Stops, so those will do for now. Maybe I’ll bend the fourth tab off the aluminum holders and give it a go? I had some Pasella 28s and they fit with room to spare.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#52
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Thanks, I’ll try that. We got the color pretty close, but it was Testors, so it brushed on pretty lumpy. I’ll try the rubbing compound, then maybe some clear metallic. At least the bare metal is covered and it looks good from ten feet.
#53
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Shimano bottom bracket
I found a Shimano BB-6400 bottom bracket in a DeRosa given to me from my brother. Italian threaded, 70mm bb shell with a Nuovo Record crankset. The mounting taper of that era crank is closer to JIS (Japan standard) than ISO, so it does work.
From renehersecycles.com (2013): "It is slightly larger, somewhat stronger, square taper interface. It is this taper that is used on all classic Gran Sport, Record, Nuovo Record and Super Record cranksets. It is also this taper that was used as the basis for the JIS standard. So if you are fitting a new BB to a classic Campagnolo crankset, treating it as JIS will provide a close approximation; closer than assuming it is ISO, anyway."
From renehersecycles.com (2013): "It is slightly larger, somewhat stronger, square taper interface. It is this taper that is used on all classic Gran Sport, Record, Nuovo Record and Super Record cranksets. It is also this taper that was used as the basis for the JIS standard. So if you are fitting a new BB to a classic Campagnolo crankset, treating it as JIS will provide a close approximation; closer than assuming it is ISO, anyway."
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Oh yeah, those are definitely different. Might be a little tough to replace pads in those.
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#56
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@JacobLee - How did the OA bath work on those rust runners under the paint?
My Burley had the same and because of that, I stripped it. and found a ton of runners which did not show with paint blisters.
P1010027 on Flickr
P1010140 on Flickr
Treated by sanding.
P1010141 on Flickr
My Burley had the same and because of that, I stripped it. and found a ton of runners which did not show with paint blisters.
P1010027 on Flickr
P1010140 on Flickr
Treated by sanding.
P1010141 on Flickr
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
#57
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I found a Shimano BB-6400 bottom bracket in a DeRosa given to me from my brother. Italian threaded, 70mm bb shell with a Nuovo Record crankset. The mounting taper of that era crank is closer to JIS (Japan standard) than ISO, so it does work.
From renehersecycles.com (2013): "It is slightly larger, somewhat stronger, square taper interface. It is this taper that is used on all classic Gran Sport, Record, Nuovo Record and Super Record cranksets. It is also this taper that was used as the basis for the JIS standard. So if you are fitting a new BB to a classic Campagnolo crankset, treating it as JIS will provide a close approximation; closer than assuming it is ISO, anyway."
From renehersecycles.com (2013): "It is slightly larger, somewhat stronger, square taper interface. It is this taper that is used on all classic Gran Sport, Record, Nuovo Record and Super Record cranksets. It is also this taper that was used as the basis for the JIS standard. So if you are fitting a new BB to a classic Campagnolo crankset, treating it as JIS will provide a close approximation; closer than assuming it is ISO, anyway."
#58
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#59
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I like your frame bathtub made out of pipe. Very clever and efficient.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#60
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Me too. That is a great saver of evaporust.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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#61
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Thanks Tom! It was scrap leftover from a radon vent installation, otherwise it would have been prohibitively expensive. I also realized that the rear end doesn’t really fit into it, so it’s a little awkward to dip the stays without tipping everything over. Oh well, that’s the prototype process!
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It rides! Took a quick 2.5 mile ride to the nearest lbs to pick up a few more feet of brake housing so I could have a front brake. I took it easy, but was impressed with the one brake. Not bad, in my opinion! I ended up taking sandpaper to the Scott Mathauser pads and they seem to work well.
I also remembered that there is no good reason to ride those Campy pedals, imho, and that I might as well face the facts and install my Technomics stem before I wrap the bar. I was considering which bike to steal pedals from, but then hit an estate sale and picked up this pile for $4. The Wellgo pedals should work, and now I have a ‘Long’ Cycle Repair Outfit, so I’m ready for anything!
I also remembered that there is no good reason to ride those Campy pedals, imho, and that I might as well face the facts and install my Technomics stem before I wrap the bar. I was considering which bike to steal pedals from, but then hit an estate sale and picked up this pile for $4. The Wellgo pedals should work, and now I have a ‘Long’ Cycle Repair Outfit, so I’m ready for anything!
#63
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How the heck do you keep finding estate sales with great biking stuff...
I go to estate sales and all they have are cat picture plates, Christmas decor and Knick knacks...
I go to estate sales and all they have are cat picture plates, Christmas decor and Knick knacks...
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#64
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Seriously, I see a lot of cat plates, too, but every once in a while I hit a cache of cool bike stuff, usually in the west hills. Heck, the closest bike store is an authorized Eddy Merckx dealer that specializes in classic racing bike restorations. There aren’t many reasons to recommend Portland these days, but good sales are one.
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Well, I took a bit of the Italian racing heritage out of the Basso with my cheap-middle-aged-guy build, but I haven’t entered any Italian races lately, so nothing lost, I suppose.
If you follow the Where Did You Ride sticky, you might have noticed that my maiden voyage went poorly. I was zipping along, congratulating myself on a job well done, when I attempted, unsuccessfully, to shift into the big ring. Loose cable? Nope. Loose bottom bracket? Yep!
I had read about the counter-intuitive Italian bb loosening syndrome, but hadn’t applied any of the solutions. I had used a plastic spacer to compensate for the cartridge bb, and hadn’t tightened it enough, thinking it would be okay temporarily. It was not! I thought about the different way a loose cartridge bb would act on the threads, as opposed to a traditional cup and cone, and I figured I better not try to limp home, or I might destroy the shell.
I think I’ll try to find a better bb, but in the meantime I figured I’d go through all of the advice and cautions I’d read about in the Italian bb threads, ISO to JIS discussions, etc. The Campy bb is from my International, but it was a good reference comparing tapers.
First, I took a radius file to an aluminum spacer until it fit over the threads. Then I measured the bb shell to see where the plastic cup would need to be when tight. It measures 69 mm, so the plastic thingy needs to be buried in the shell.
I had seen a torque spec of around 70 Nm for the ds cup to stay tight. I found it easier to torque this on the ground instead of in the stand. I got it to 70, then worked it up to around 80 without feeling like I was over-tightening.
Both the ISO and JIS tapers seem to have about a 10 mm deep area of contact. Both sides of the crank cinched up nicely and seem to be in a good spot. The drive side might be a little close, but chainline seems great. Here’s the crank tightened, then bolt removed to check where the spindle seated.
Seems okay. Here’s where everything sits:
I guess the question will be: Does it work? If not, at least I know what bb not to use!
If you follow the Where Did You Ride sticky, you might have noticed that my maiden voyage went poorly. I was zipping along, congratulating myself on a job well done, when I attempted, unsuccessfully, to shift into the big ring. Loose cable? Nope. Loose bottom bracket? Yep!
I had read about the counter-intuitive Italian bb loosening syndrome, but hadn’t applied any of the solutions. I had used a plastic spacer to compensate for the cartridge bb, and hadn’t tightened it enough, thinking it would be okay temporarily. It was not! I thought about the different way a loose cartridge bb would act on the threads, as opposed to a traditional cup and cone, and I figured I better not try to limp home, or I might destroy the shell.
I think I’ll try to find a better bb, but in the meantime I figured I’d go through all of the advice and cautions I’d read about in the Italian bb threads, ISO to JIS discussions, etc. The Campy bb is from my International, but it was a good reference comparing tapers.
First, I took a radius file to an aluminum spacer until it fit over the threads. Then I measured the bb shell to see where the plastic cup would need to be when tight. It measures 69 mm, so the plastic thingy needs to be buried in the shell.
I had seen a torque spec of around 70 Nm for the ds cup to stay tight. I found it easier to torque this on the ground instead of in the stand. I got it to 70, then worked it up to around 80 without feeling like I was over-tightening.
Both the ISO and JIS tapers seem to have about a 10 mm deep area of contact. Both sides of the crank cinched up nicely and seem to be in a good spot. The drive side might be a little close, but chainline seems great. Here’s the crank tightened, then bolt removed to check where the spindle seated.
Seems okay. Here’s where everything sits:
I guess the question will be: Does it work? If not, at least I know what bb not to use!
#67
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Thanks for the input! I appreciate it!
#68
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Well, since this thread has been littered with estate sale finds, many of which have ended up on the Basso, I figured I’d tack these on. The only bits here that might get near it are the gloves. Pretty sweet! No place to wipe my nose though!
Unfortunately, the Fuji mentioned on the cards was long gone. I guess the rivoli chain tool is nib, even if the box is all twisted. Pretty entertaining stuff.
Unfortunately, the Fuji mentioned on the cards was long gone. I guess the rivoli chain tool is nib, even if the box is all twisted. Pretty entertaining stuff.
#69
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Avocet shoes. Nice find.
Those toe clips look like they are for a size 4 women's shoe...
Those toe clips look like they are for a size 4 women's shoe...
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#71
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I’ve been flailing around trying to fill the threaded dropout adjuster holes with something appropriate. I’ve been riding with the wheel all the way back in the dropouts, and thought the shifting was fine, but I figured I’d try to set it up as it should be. My LBS was enthusiastic about ordering my some hardware, but they came up with this:
Seemed like a good solution, but the springs are way too long, as are the screws. I quickly lost one of the knurled nuts, so it was off to the hardware store as I had initially planned. I found the shortest stainless springs I could (still too long) and some stainless 3mm acorn nuts. I cut about 10mm off the screws, and there it is.
Looks to me like the axle should scoot back a little, but I’ll need shorter springs for that. I suppose I could cut them.
I also splurged on a lightly used Sella Anatomica at the co-op to replace the old 80’s Specialized azz-wedge I had on there. It sort of resembles a medieval torture device, but it’s pretty comfy.
Seemed like a good solution, but the springs are way too long, as are the screws. I quickly lost one of the knurled nuts, so it was off to the hardware store as I had initially planned. I found the shortest stainless springs I could (still too long) and some stainless 3mm acorn nuts. I cut about 10mm off the screws, and there it is.
Looks to me like the axle should scoot back a little, but I’ll need shorter springs for that. I suppose I could cut them.
I also splurged on a lightly used Sella Anatomica at the co-op to replace the old 80’s Specialized azz-wedge I had on there. It sort of resembles a medieval torture device, but it’s pretty comfy.
#72
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Champagne is a tough color to match since it is metallic. Did you try nail polish colors...?
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#73
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What happened to that thing, anyway?