Sturmey Rear Drum Brake
11-22-21, 03:56 AM
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Sturmey Rear Drum Brake
Does anyone have any good tricks for making the final adjustment to the left side bearing while making sure that the brake torque arm is aligned with the left chainstay and the brake bolt fits properly? The best way to do it would be on the bike, but I can't always get in there with some chain pliers to manipulate the cone adjuster.
11-22-21, 09:14 AM
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Have you tried a proper cone wrench? Andy
After hitting send I realized that, as often is the case, I have more to say. We don't know if this hub is a "classic" English SA made one or a more current Asian made one. I don't remember the cone/lock nut arrangement of the English hubs and haven't seen a modern one enough to know that design too. Some hubs back in the day used a notched lock nut, much like a small lock ring, and needed a small hook wrench (which use to be dirt common in your LBS in the 1970s). Can photos or better description be posted? Andy
After hitting send I realized that, as often is the case, I have more to say. We don't know if this hub is a "classic" English SA made one or a more current Asian made one. I don't remember the cone/lock nut arrangement of the English hubs and haven't seen a modern one enough to know that design too. Some hubs back in the day used a notched lock nut, much like a small lock ring, and needed a small hook wrench (which use to be dirt common in your LBS in the 1970s). Can photos or better description be posted? Andy
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Last edited by Andrew R Stewart; 11-22-21 at 09:20 AM.
11-22-21, 09:26 AM
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You need to figure out how to align it in the vise. I align the flat of the axel to something on the face plate.
Mine now lines up to a point on one of the rivets. Trial and error until you get it right. There is NO way else to do this on the bike. I hold the arm with my thumb, wearing a glove or holding a rag for padding.
Maybe take a photo or draw a picture of the final alignment.
Mine now lines up to a point on one of the rivets. Trial and error until you get it right. There is NO way else to do this on the bike. I hold the arm with my thumb, wearing a glove or holding a rag for padding.
Maybe take a photo or draw a picture of the final alignment.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 11-22-21 at 09:30 AM.
11-23-21, 02:41 PM
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Before I did any work I would measure the angle between the hole on the lever and the axle flat and then use that as reference for reassembly. I had a plan to make a template tool out of thin aluminum that would fit over the axle flats and then extend to the right position for the hole on the lever. Alas, never got to it and haven't used those wheels for years.
I have to say that this adjustment is one of the most vexing operations that I've had to do, though installing fenders is worse.
Good luck
I have to say that this adjustment is one of the most vexing operations that I've had to do, though installing fenders is worse.
Good luck
11-29-21, 04:50 PM
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Yes, I feel the same way. Sometimes I can work in a pair of chain pliers and a cone wrench when the wheel is in the frame, which makes it a little like setting one of the old AWs.
11-29-21, 04:54 PM
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AWs are easy to adjust bearings. Clamp the RH axle nut down snug with the wheel in the frame and snug the LH side to test for a tiny amount of slop. Loosen the LH axle nut and use a thinned down cone wrench for the LH cone and a regular cone wrench for that lock nut. Perform a bearing adjustment and resnug the LH axle nut to test again. Repeat till after all is tight the rim has about a 1-2mm slop. Check chain being untensioned. Then go for a ride. Andy
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