Changing out Shimano HG700-11
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
If you never find yourself "between gears" and wanting a 16T or 14T, then you should be fine.
Cross chaining only really matters at the outer-most combos, so if you're not running 50x30 or 34x11 today, then you'll be fine. Otherwise, a slight difference in chain angles isn't going to make a difference with regards to real-world, non-race performance.
Cross chaining only really matters at the outer-most combos, so if you're not running 50x30 or 34x11 today, then you'll be fine. Otherwise, a slight difference in chain angles isn't going to make a difference with regards to real-world, non-race performance.
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Looking at the gear sizes I bet a 14-28t cassette would work really well with a 52/36t or 53/39t front sprocket for my rides. Or just use the SRAM like someone else listed.
12-25t also looks interesting.
12-25t also looks interesting.
Last edited by jjay03; 09-18-21 at 09:50 AM.
#28
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It's not only the gears you use the most. It's also the gears you need to get up any hill you normally encounter. If you are muscling your way up a hill at a low cadence every ride you do, then you might need some lower gearing.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
#29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It's not only the gears you use the most. It's also the gears you need to get up any hill you normally encounter. If you are muscling your way up a hill at a low cadence every ride you do, then you might need some lower gearing.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
#30
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It's not only the gears you use the most. It's also the gears you need to get up any hill you normally encounter. If you are muscling your way up a hill at a low cadence every ride you do, then you might need some lower gearing.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
Sure you might build muscles and over come that difficult gear, but you might also risk future knee problems as you age.
#31
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#32
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Hard to say. I recommend finding the biggest hill you ride, and include it near the end of one of your longer rides (if possible). Don't sandbag the ride up to the hill - ride your normal pace. Fill your water bottles or hydration pack (or both )just before the hill (if possible). See what gear you need to get up it comfortably. Then choose a cassette that has a cog or two larger than that (for those days when you ride longer, or harder, or it's windy).
Changing to a smaller cassette should not require any changes to the rear derailer or to chain length.
Changing to a smaller cassette should not require any changes to the rear derailer or to chain length.
Last edited by Gonzo Bob; 09-22-21 at 03:59 PM.
#33
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I have a new Domane SL5 with the 11-34t rear cassette and 50/34 compact crank. I ride mostly on flat bike trails and dont ever really use the largest sprocket on the rear cassette. What gearing would you recommend? I was thinking about going to an ultegra 11-30t rear cassette.
If I swapped out the rear cassette HG700-11 to a CS-r8000 11-30t would I need to change anything else? Still use the same rear derailleur? I was also thinking about going to an ultegra chain at this time.
What tools should I buy to remove/install the rear cassette?
Thanks
If I swapped out the rear cassette HG700-11 to a CS-r8000 11-30t would I need to change anything else? Still use the same rear derailleur? I was also thinking about going to an ultegra chain at this time.
What tools should I buy to remove/install the rear cassette?
Thanks
I also love the 16 tooth and basically live in the 15, 16, 17 tooth on a 50 tooth chain ring