Scored a 1970 Robin Hood on Craigslist, now I have a question!
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Scored a 1970 Robin Hood on Craigslist, now I have a question!
Hello bike forums community,
I'm a newbie member here and new to the vintage bike kick. After years of riding a cruiser bike, I bought a Public V1 which is a perfectly nice ride for most of what I do (I live in a flat, very bike-friendly island community in the SF Bay Area) but soon decided a few gears would be nice. Research led me to the old Raleighs, and I've spent a lot of time reading this forum, drooling over the pictures, and scouring Craigslist.
I finally scored a nice 1970 Robin Hood for $40. The shifter wasn't working but after my bike shop hit it with some WD-40 and lubed it that problem was solved. It's there right now getting new cables and a basic tune-up. I'm pretty excited. The only thing I can tell that isn't original is the kickstand. Otherwise the bike is in really good shape.
I plan to hit it with some scratch remover and polish and then I will share a picture. I might also customize it a little, remove the fenders (we are in a drought here) and put some new Schwalbe cream-colored tires or Panaracers on it. And swap out the original saddle for a Brooks B17.
However, part of me is toying with putting a 90-degree quill stem on it and some Velo Orange handlebars. So my question is, what stem to buy? If I understand it right, I need a stem that is 7/8" (22.2mm)? Can someone point to some examples online? Should I be looking for a Nitto 22.2? And would swapping this be easy for me to do, including the brakes, shifter, and grips? I've never done bike work.
Or maybe I will keep it original
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
I'm a newbie member here and new to the vintage bike kick. After years of riding a cruiser bike, I bought a Public V1 which is a perfectly nice ride for most of what I do (I live in a flat, very bike-friendly island community in the SF Bay Area) but soon decided a few gears would be nice. Research led me to the old Raleighs, and I've spent a lot of time reading this forum, drooling over the pictures, and scouring Craigslist.
I finally scored a nice 1970 Robin Hood for $40. The shifter wasn't working but after my bike shop hit it with some WD-40 and lubed it that problem was solved. It's there right now getting new cables and a basic tune-up. I'm pretty excited. The only thing I can tell that isn't original is the kickstand. Otherwise the bike is in really good shape.
I plan to hit it with some scratch remover and polish and then I will share a picture. I might also customize it a little, remove the fenders (we are in a drought here) and put some new Schwalbe cream-colored tires or Panaracers on it. And swap out the original saddle for a Brooks B17.
However, part of me is toying with putting a 90-degree quill stem on it and some Velo Orange handlebars. So my question is, what stem to buy? If I understand it right, I need a stem that is 7/8" (22.2mm)? Can someone point to some examples online? Should I be looking for a Nitto 22.2? And would swapping this be easy for me to do, including the brakes, shifter, and grips? I've never done bike work.
Or maybe I will keep it original
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Last edited by Dougbloch; 04-01-16 at 12:52 AM. Reason: forgot to add degree for stem
#2
Senior Member
Hello and welcome.
I would start by getting it ready to ride as is. It will probably need more work than a basic bike shop tuneup so you may want to start learning. I would repack the bottom bracket with new grease and ball bearings, same with the headset and front hub. Rear hub should take a sip of oil. New cables and housing, maybe new chain if yours is gritty or worn and a general cleanup.
Once you decide you like it or not is when you should put money into it. These are heavy bikes and not great platforms to upgrade so to speak. Alloy rims are nice as is a nicer saddle if you want to make it a bit nicer. If you want a lighter road bike with a 3 speed hub try searching for a clubman style bike. You may be able to find a nice frame locally and build it from that.
I would start by getting it ready to ride as is. It will probably need more work than a basic bike shop tuneup so you may want to start learning. I would repack the bottom bracket with new grease and ball bearings, same with the headset and front hub. Rear hub should take a sip of oil. New cables and housing, maybe new chain if yours is gritty or worn and a general cleanup.
Once you decide you like it or not is when you should put money into it. These are heavy bikes and not great platforms to upgrade so to speak. Alloy rims are nice as is a nicer saddle if you want to make it a bit nicer. If you want a lighter road bike with a 3 speed hub try searching for a clubman style bike. You may be able to find a nice frame locally and build it from that.
#3
Senior Member
narhay made some good points
Hello bike forums community,
I'm a newbie member here and new to the vintage bike kick. After years of riding a cruiser bike, I bought a Public V1 which is a perfectly nice ride for most of what I do (I live in a flat, very bike-friendly island community in the SF Bay Area) but soon decided a few gears would be nice. Research led me to the old Raleighs, and I've spent a lot of time reading this forum, drooling over the pictures, and scouring Craigslist.
I finally scored a nice 1970 Robin Hood for $40. The shifter wasn't working but after my bike shop hit it with some WD-40 and lubed it that problem was solved. It's there right now getting new cables and a basic tune-up. I'm pretty excited. The only thing I can tell that isn't original is the kickstand. Otherwise the bike is in really good shape.
I plan to hit it with some scratch remover and polish and then I will share a picture. I might also customize it a little, remove the fenders (we are in a drought here) and put some new Schwalbe cream-colored tires or Panaracers on it. And swap out the original saddle for a Brooks B17.
However, part of me is toying with putting a 90-degree quill stem on it and some Velo Orange handlebars. So my question is, what stem to buy? If I understand it right, I need a stem that is 7/8" (22.2mm)? Can someone point to some examples online? Should I be looking for a Nitto 22.2? And would swapping this be easy for me to do, including the brakes, shifter, and grips? I've never done bike work.
Or maybe I will keep it original
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
I'm a newbie member here and new to the vintage bike kick. After years of riding a cruiser bike, I bought a Public V1 which is a perfectly nice ride for most of what I do (I live in a flat, very bike-friendly island community in the SF Bay Area) but soon decided a few gears would be nice. Research led me to the old Raleighs, and I've spent a lot of time reading this forum, drooling over the pictures, and scouring Craigslist.
I finally scored a nice 1970 Robin Hood for $40. The shifter wasn't working but after my bike shop hit it with some WD-40 and lubed it that problem was solved. It's there right now getting new cables and a basic tune-up. I'm pretty excited. The only thing I can tell that isn't original is the kickstand. Otherwise the bike is in really good shape.
I plan to hit it with some scratch remover and polish and then I will share a picture. I might also customize it a little, remove the fenders (we are in a drought here) and put some new Schwalbe cream-colored tires or Panaracers on it. And swap out the original saddle for a Brooks B17.
However, part of me is toying with putting a 90-degree quill stem on it and some Velo Orange handlebars. So my question is, what stem to buy? If I understand it right, I need a stem that is 7/8" (22.2mm)? Can someone point to some examples online? Should I be looking for a Nitto 22.2? And would swapping this be easy for me to do, including the brakes, shifter, and grips? I've never done bike work.
Or maybe I will keep it original
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
First things first! See Narhay's comments
The old grease is probably close to being petrified (not scared, hardened) and you can do some damage if you ride much. Tear it down and build it back up with fresh grease and you'll be surprised how nice it rides. Plenty of on line info (See Sheldon Brown to start) or ask here. Your investment of mainly sweat equity will pay big dividends. Pads and cables are cheap and you can get usable tires from Niagara Cycle for about $10 each + shipping. Wash and wax and you are ready to go, but be real careful around and pin striping.
Get a couple of hundred miles under you belt and you will have a good idea of what you want to replace or change. I'd be careful about losing the fenders. They can come in handy and as a classic, I think they make the bike look "better." And as for saving weight, if that's a main concern, you should look at another bike.
I'm intrigued by the frame size.....looks to be 58 cm (center of crank to top of seat tube). That's my size and is sometimes difficult to find in anything other than a road bike. If it fits you, hang on to it cause it maybe sometime before you find another.
Good luck with your new bike!
Last edited by okane; 04-01-16 at 06:01 AM.
#4
Seńor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,926
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1492 Post(s)
Liked 1,096 Times
in
642 Posts
I suggest doing the basic maintenance and what the others have suggested. After doing those things, try riding it with the existing stem and bars and get a feel for whether you like it that way. Those bikes are tanks, and if you want something that handles like a ten speed, I think you'll be disappointed with the result.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,472 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Nice bike. Like the others said, I'd overhaul it but I would not be in a hurry to change anything out. Ride it first and see what you think. Old 3 speeds are great bikes but you may find that your bike will lose much of its charm if you modernize it. Here is my 1969 Robin Hood and it's pretty much all original (except the saddle):
#6
Abuse Magnet
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,870
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 151 Post(s)
Liked 175 Times
in
89 Posts
You should keep it mostly original...you'll learn more that way. Get a better saddle, though. If you have questions as you're working on it, go to the For the Love of English 3-Speeds thread...matter of fact, you'd do well to read that whole thread all the way through and take notes, it's an amazing resource.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I really appreciate all of the quick and thoughtful responses! You've convinced me to keep it original but throw a nicer Brooks saddle on it.
I've thoroughly enjoyed riding my heavy, single speed Public V1 around my home town. We have a bike trail that rings the island, plenty of bike lanes, and other trails and paths. Very bike friendly!
That being said, I just moved into a new office that is a little more than 5 miles one-way from my house, and there have been times where I thought having a few gears for the ride would be nice.
I'll see what the bike store did in terms of the tune up besides lubing it, trueing the wheels, and replacing the cables. Then I may do more.
I will dig into that giant thread and report back to you guys!
I've thoroughly enjoyed riding my heavy, single speed Public V1 around my home town. We have a bike trail that rings the island, plenty of bike lanes, and other trails and paths. Very bike friendly!
That being said, I just moved into a new office that is a little more than 5 miles one-way from my house, and there have been times where I thought having a few gears for the ride would be nice.
I'll see what the bike store did in terms of the tune up besides lubing it, trueing the wheels, and replacing the cables. Then I may do more.
I will dig into that giant thread and report back to you guys!
#8
Senior Member
Nice score! I really like the simplicity and looks of those Robin Hoods. Everyone else has given you the advice you need, the only thing I have to add is- Keep whatever you take off... If you decide to sell it in the future then you can swap back on the original stuff and keep your newer upgrades for your next project. It works out better for everyone.
Bruce
Bruce
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Posts: 5,630
Bikes: one of each
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
12 Posts
On my Phillips (really similar bike) I found a stem with longer reach. The handlebar diameter is smaller than what's standard these days so it had to be an older English stem. I think I found it on Ebay, it was cheap. It looks right on the bike and gives me just the right reach. Ride that thing a bit and see how it fits you. Then start monkeying.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I got it back from the shop today. New brake cables. Everything cleaned and lubed, including the bottom bracket.
I adjusted the seat a little higher, cleaned it up a little with a rag, and took it for a spin.
What a fun bike! The 3 speed hub is great. Compared to my single speed Public V1, I was really cruising in 3rd gear.
I'm going to throw my Brooks saddle on it and enjoy it more. Everything seems to be original on it except for the tires and kick stand. How do I know if the rims are original? Thanks
Unfortunately I can't seem to post another pic from my phone.
I adjusted the seat a little higher, cleaned it up a little with a rag, and took it for a spin.
What a fun bike! The 3 speed hub is great. Compared to my single speed Public V1, I was really cruising in 3rd gear.
I'm going to throw my Brooks saddle on it and enjoy it more. Everything seems to be original on it except for the tires and kick stand. How do I know if the rims are original? Thanks
Unfortunately I can't seem to post another pic from my phone.
#11
Seńor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,926
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1492 Post(s)
Liked 1,096 Times
in
642 Posts
Well I got it back from the shop today. New brake cables. Everything cleaned and lubed, including the bottom bracket.
I adjusted the seat a little higher, cleaned it up a little with a rag, and took it for a spin.
What a fun bike! The 3 speed hub is great. Compared to my single speed Public V1, I was really cruising in 3rd gear.
I'm going to throw my Brooks saddle on it and enjoy it more. Everything seems to be original on it except for the tires and kick stand. How do I know if the rims are original? Thanks
Unfortunately I can't seem to post another pic from my phone.
I adjusted the seat a little higher, cleaned it up a little with a rag, and took it for a spin.
What a fun bike! The 3 speed hub is great. Compared to my single speed Public V1, I was really cruising in 3rd gear.
I'm going to throw my Brooks saddle on it and enjoy it more. Everything seems to be original on it except for the tires and kick stand. How do I know if the rims are original? Thanks
Unfortunately I can't seem to post another pic from my phone.
As for the rims - they will be almost certainly chromed steel, made in England, and laced to a rear hub that's dated 69 or 70.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#12
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,792
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3591 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times
in
1,935 Posts
If you might ride in wet conditions, aluminum rims are a welcome upgrade, just to be able to stop safely. The 590mm Sun CR-18 rim is a drop-in replacement for the original steel rims, and is available in 32, 36, and 40 hole drillings (your bike looks to have traditional British 32h front, 40h rear wheels).
#13
Seńor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,926
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1492 Post(s)
Liked 1,096 Times
in
642 Posts
If you might ride in wet conditions, aluminum rims are a welcome upgrade, just to be able to stop safely. The 590mm Sun CR-18 rim is a drop-in replacement for the original steel rims, and is available in 32, 36, and 40 hole drillings (your bike looks to have traditional British 32h front, 40h rear wheels).
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've been reading up on the CR-18s and just might do this. Also thinking about those sweet Schwalbe cream colored Delta Cruisers! I am little intimidated at the idea of building the wheels though...
#16
Seńor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,926
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1492 Post(s)
Liked 1,096 Times
in
642 Posts
Youtube (or a friendly, local C&Ver) can get you through it.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I've been playing around with this bike and enjoying it immensely. I flipped the handlebars, threw my B-67 on it, added a bell and lights to it, and I've been slowly polishing it up with scratch remover. I also flushed the SA hub with WD-40 then added some 3-in-One SAE 20 engine oil. The bike is running smooth. Next step is definitely new tires and new brake pads from Harris. It has the original John Bulls. And although I am in drought-stricken California and rain is not an issue, they don't have the best stopping power. I might break down and do new rims, too.
here are a few pics.
here are a few pics.
Last edited by Dougbloch; 04-15-16 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Problem with pictures
#18
52psi
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 4,015
Bikes: Schwinn Volare ('78); Raleigh Competition GS ('79)
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 790 Post(s)
Liked 802 Times
in
391 Posts
...Wish I had a B-67 just lying around when I started this vintage bike thing.
Good job keeping it original but still making it yours. As others have said, keep those fenders around. And for a first shot at working on your own bike, I'd suggest shortening the cables and housing; they're waaay too long for the current setup. Looks like spaghetti. Going shorter and getting a nice, graceful curve will do wonders for the overall look.
But most of all, enjoy it!
Good job keeping it original but still making it yours. As others have said, keep those fenders around. And for a first shot at working on your own bike, I'd suggest shortening the cables and housing; they're waaay too long for the current setup. Looks like spaghetti. Going shorter and getting a nice, graceful curve will do wonders for the overall look.
But most of all, enjoy it!
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#19
Senior Member
Fenders! LOL. I almost put mine back last weekend, but I'd guess that little damp spell is about it for the season. Without fenders I'd be tempted to go for the white Schwalbe tires too. It would be pretty stylin' IMO.
I would probably do the rims. It won't change the appearance noticeably if you get polished aluminum rims, and it will ride quicker and brake better. That said, the old stock steel rims are perfectly usable.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,544
Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 351 Post(s)
Liked 599 Times
in
229 Posts
My 71 Robin Hood, 23" frame. All original save tires and saddle (new B67 Honey) My vote would be to keep the bike as original as possible with the fenders, they just don't make them like that anymore.
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hadn't thought about shortening the cables, but I think that's good advice. I know nothing about bikes so I will have to look into it. Thanks!
I think I will put the fenders and chain guard back on after I get them polished up. Much easier to do after they are off.
I think I will put the fenders and chain guard back on after I get them polished up. Much easier to do after they are off.
#22
Senior Member
fenders are pretty much a non-issue for the foreseeable cali future, but they don't take up much space hanging on a wall. heck of a bike for $40! very nice find
#23
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,274
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1298 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
I can't comment about the stem, but I'm happy for you. It's good to see people getting excited about these old, British 3-speeds. They just give an amazing ride like no other bike. Riding them is a great experience.
Why do you want a quill stem? You want to push the bars forward? Or lower them?
If you do, get a nice old British stem Like GB or Reynolds.
Why do you want a quill stem? You want to push the bars forward? Or lower them?
If you do, get a nice old British stem Like GB or Reynolds.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Posts: 5,630
Bikes: one of each
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
12 Posts
Don't know about that 3 in 1 oil. Some of their oils are made for open systems where it's expected to leak and get replaced. they can congeal in a closed system. I just use straight motor oil.
Bike looks great, though.
Bike looks great, though.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I read on here and other web sites that the 3-in-One Motor Oil is okay -- the one in the blue and white tin. Also read the standard in the black and white tin is bad for the exact same reason you listed.