Help estimate frame size on thrift Miyata 512 road bike
#1
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Help estimate frame size on thrift Miyata 512 road bike
Saw this for $50. Earlier today. I may decide to buy it.
I am 6ft 1in, so I need a frame for a tall person. My Fuji Absolute 2.0 has a 23" frame (the max I could get). It fits well.
I only had my GF Advance mtb (frame) which was what I was on as as I went past the thrift store.I think the GF has a 21" mtb frame. It fits fine.
Not sure about the
I am 6ft 1in, so I need a frame for a tall person. My Fuji Absolute 2.0 has a 23" frame (the max I could get). It fits well.
I only had my GF Advance mtb (frame) which was what I was on as as I went past the thrift store.I think the GF has a 21" mtb frame. It fits fine.
Not sure about the
#2
Full Member
It will fit you. Off the cuff I would guess a 60cm frame.
One thing to be aware of is I have heard some miyata frames with the top tube cable routing can crack at the hole. Now I presume that's on higher mileage ones, which this isn't.
That's in very good shape so it's probably fine.
One thing to be aware of is I have heard some miyata frames with the top tube cable routing can crack at the hole. Now I presume that's on higher mileage ones, which this isn't.
That's in very good shape so it's probably fine.
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Guess = 57cm.
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Size, from 1987 catalog
I put my 1993 GF Advance mtb (frame/fork.handlebar orig; the rest are modified for commuting/hybrid/pannier use) right next to the 512. The GF has a 20.5 inch frame (the largest they had of that model) . And the sizes seemed very close. The 512 head tube "gap" may have been a bit longer.
Last edited by elcyc; 05-14-24 at 10:09 PM.
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Gauging by the seat pushed all the way forward on the Fuji I'm gonna guess the Miyata's reach is gonna be rough on ya. You could always get a shorter stem I reckon.
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Miyata 512
If I go for it, I'll have to mod it a little. Raise the handlebars and seat -- of course. Neck pain -- for long rides -- is major issue for me.
Not sure how original (true to catalog) the $50 thrifty is? According to the 1987 literature, the 512 has a smaller front wheel. But I've seen photos of 512's with std wheels. That smaller front wheel looks ugly.
I don't really want a "competition" bike, which the 512 seems to be designed as. So yeah ... pick this one up for 50 bux, lube it up, make some adjustments. Have a little fun ... but then sell it for a bit more so I can acquire some more practical machine; like a touring bike.
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2087.pdf
Anyone know what the 1987 brand new price was for this model?
Not sure how original (true to catalog) the $50 thrifty is? According to the 1987 literature, the 512 has a smaller front wheel. But I've seen photos of 512's with std wheels. That smaller front wheel looks ugly.
I don't really want a "competition" bike, which the 512 seems to be designed as. So yeah ... pick this one up for 50 bux, lube it up, make some adjustments. Have a little fun ... but then sell it for a bit more so I can acquire some more practical machine; like a touring bike.
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2087.pdf
Anyone know what the 1987 brand new price was for this model?
#8
Senior Member
The smalll wheel would have only come on the smallest size. Keep in mind that raising the handlebar may require a different stem and new brake cables. Is a road bike what youre looking for? No idea of its original price but I think $50 is a deal for that, though its a moot point if its not a good fit.
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If I go for it, I'll have to mod it a little. Raise the handlebars and seat -- of course. Neck pain -- for long rides -- is major issue for me.
Not sure how original (true to catalog) the $50 thrifty is? According to the 1987 literature, the 512 has a smaller front wheel. But I've seen photos of 512's with std wheels. That smaller front wheel looks ugly.
I don't really want a "competition" bike, which the 512 seems to be designed as. So yeah ... pick this one up for 50 bux, lube it up, make some adjustments. Have a little fun ... but then sell it for a bit more so I can acquire some more practical machine; like a touring bike.
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2087.pdf
Anyone know what the 1987 brand new price was for this model?
Not sure how original (true to catalog) the $50 thrifty is? According to the 1987 literature, the 512 has a smaller front wheel. But I've seen photos of 512's with std wheels. That smaller front wheel looks ugly.
I don't really want a "competition" bike, which the 512 seems to be designed as. So yeah ... pick this one up for 50 bux, lube it up, make some adjustments. Have a little fun ... but then sell it for a bit more so I can acquire some more practical machine; like a touring bike.
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2087.pdf
Anyone know what the 1987 brand new price was for this model?
- the '87 model clearly shows the smaller wheel came on the smallest frame size.
- the picture you provide of the bike clearly shows the wheels are the same size.
- the '89 512 came in 50, 54, 56, 58, 60, and 63 sizes. So its a 56 or 58, I guess.
- I am shocked that there is this much hand wringing over a $50 bike. If you want it- buy it. If you dont want it- dont buy it. Its an entry level road bike from 35 years ago for $50...there really shouldnt be much to think over since those who like older road bikes would buy it right away and those who dont like older road bikes would think $50 is too expensive.
ETA-
- No idea what the retail cost was in '89, but beyond simple curiosity, I really hope it doesnt matter when it comes to deciding if you want to buy this bike or not. My guess, based on similar entry level enthusiast road bikes from '89 that I know of $350 retail price.
Last edited by mstateglfr; 05-15-24 at 08:14 AM.
#10
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As for frame size, why not just take a tape measure with you when you go back?
Last edited by alcjphil; 05-15-24 at 08:37 AM.
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#13
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It can't be a 57. Miyata didn't make it in a 57.
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You'll be putting a lot more money into that Miyata than it'll ever be worth. If you are good at DIY for everything it'll need then maybe not quite as bad.
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My guess at first glance is 60cm (~24in).
I'd buy it, but I'm impulsive and can't help myself if I see a good deal. I found some other catalogs on ragandbone.com (can't post links yet), and based on the paint, it looks like a 1989.
It's the bottom of their Triathlon lineup. The frame should be miyata's in house splined, triple butted crmo, fork should be Reynolds 525. Total weight with original components is listed as 23.5lb, which is only slightly heavier than my Centurion Ironman, based on weights I've seen quoted.
It looks like the primary differences between the frame of the 512 and higher end models is that the higher end models have investment cast lugs, fancier dropouts, and the catalog specifically mentions crmo stays, which would lead me to believe the stays on this frame may be hi-ten.
regardless of whether the components are original, it's complete and seems like a great deal for what it is. I'd get it, overhaul it, ride it, and then if I didn't like it, sell it for more than $50. Alternatively, disassemble, keep some stuff for parts bins, and sell the frame.
Let us know what you decide to do!
I'd buy it, but I'm impulsive and can't help myself if I see a good deal. I found some other catalogs on ragandbone.com (can't post links yet), and based on the paint, it looks like a 1989.
It's the bottom of their Triathlon lineup. The frame should be miyata's in house splined, triple butted crmo, fork should be Reynolds 525. Total weight with original components is listed as 23.5lb, which is only slightly heavier than my Centurion Ironman, based on weights I've seen quoted.
It looks like the primary differences between the frame of the 512 and higher end models is that the higher end models have investment cast lugs, fancier dropouts, and the catalog specifically mentions crmo stays, which would lead me to believe the stays on this frame may be hi-ten.
regardless of whether the components are original, it's complete and seems like a great deal for what it is. I'd get it, overhaul it, ride it, and then if I didn't like it, sell it for more than $50. Alternatively, disassemble, keep some stuff for parts bins, and sell the frame.
Let us know what you decide to do!
#16
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#17
Either 58 or 60. If we're putting down money I'd go for 58.
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#19
23" so 58cm it is!
BTW- Awesome job carrying one bike home on the back of another bike!
BTW- Awesome job carrying one bike home on the back of another bike!
#20
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I lost two whole paragraphs in attempting to post in this thread, earlier today, because of the absurd BF log-out timer. 10 years here ... and same story. The buffer did not hold. And the outage was not on my end. Is this a way to run a railroad?
This is not not good for biz, BF admin, capisce? You might help if you have that copy of the "Auto Saved".
Meanwhile, let me recollect .... yeah, it was about re-using the 512 bike as a NON-RACING, NON-COMPETITION machine.
I want to reuse as much of the orig as possible.
This bike seems to have been stored much of its life. So in very good So Cal dry-climate shape.
The tires and tubes the 512 are dry rotted. How fat (wide) and "cross-country / touring" can I go with the present rims: ARAYA, SS45 700C Sliver 36H
Speaking of cross and touring (as well as daily commuting and grocery getting, with racks and panniers) ... will JUST changing tires to something a bit wider and "tractiony" again, same rims) work? I ride very gently and stick to smooth paved roads. Along with, of course, regular cleaning and lube and other preventive maint. You know, love and compassion for the ghost in the machine. This is why my 1993 GF Advance (a budget model mtb converted to commuter; see photos above) has lasted 31 years, in great shape, with every-other-day-use and 20,0000 miles on that orig frame/fork/handlebars/headtube.
But the Miyata 512, bottom line for me, needs: fenders; wider, commuting tires; 4 panniers; double-brake levers; a kick stand.
How about somewhat emulating a Surly Long Haul Trucker.
P.S. The solidity and "feel" of the 512 convinces me that it is more durable than modern $900-$1100 (new) bikes selling as touring, hybrid, city trekking and commuting. E.g., my 2010 Fuji Absolute 2.0 city trekker -- purchased new in 2010 for $800 -- seems much "flimsier" (it is mostly made in PRC).
This is not not good for biz, BF admin, capisce? You might help if you have that copy of the "Auto Saved".
Meanwhile, let me recollect .... yeah, it was about re-using the 512 bike as a NON-RACING, NON-COMPETITION machine.
I want to reuse as much of the orig as possible.
This bike seems to have been stored much of its life. So in very good So Cal dry-climate shape.
The tires and tubes the 512 are dry rotted. How fat (wide) and "cross-country / touring" can I go with the present rims: ARAYA, SS45 700C Sliver 36H
Speaking of cross and touring (as well as daily commuting and grocery getting, with racks and panniers) ... will JUST changing tires to something a bit wider and "tractiony" again, same rims) work? I ride very gently and stick to smooth paved roads. Along with, of course, regular cleaning and lube and other preventive maint. You know, love and compassion for the ghost in the machine. This is why my 1993 GF Advance (a budget model mtb converted to commuter; see photos above) has lasted 31 years, in great shape, with every-other-day-use and 20,0000 miles on that orig frame/fork/handlebars/headtube.
But the Miyata 512, bottom line for me, needs: fenders; wider, commuting tires; 4 panniers; double-brake levers; a kick stand.
How about somewhat emulating a Surly Long Haul Trucker.
P.S. The solidity and "feel" of the 512 convinces me that it is more durable than modern $900-$1100 (new) bikes selling as touring, hybrid, city trekking and commuting. E.g., my 2010 Fuji Absolute 2.0 city trekker -- purchased new in 2010 for $800 -- seems much "flimsier" (it is mostly made in PRC).
#21
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Bike has potential, definitely an upgrade.
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#22
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A 28mm tire would likely be the widest on that frame, and even then, it may be that not all 28mm tires fit.
If you want fenders, that might reduce tire size, but that totally depends on the brake bridge, chainstay shape, and bb shell.
4 panniers on that bike is really getting creative - it isn't built to handle a rear rack, much less front rack. Do it if you want and whatnot, but that's definitely getting creative.
Where a bike is made has 0nto do with if it flimsy or not.
Best of luck on the transformation.
If you want fenders, that might reduce tire size, but that totally depends on the brake bridge, chainstay shape, and bb shell.
4 panniers on that bike is really getting creative - it isn't built to handle a rear rack, much less front rack. Do it if you want and whatnot, but that's definitely getting creative.
Where a bike is made has 0nto do with if it flimsy or not.
Best of luck on the transformation.
#23
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Got it goin' -- but TALL tires an issue!
Well, I was able to get the raw thrift going after a tube patch and lube.
Gotta say that after clean and polish, this thing looks nice!
I had some 700c tires from the Fuji laying around; they are wider and a bit TALLER. And the TALL is where I ran into a snag -- it began hitting the brake caliper when the tire was fully inflated.
So I need wide and a bit low-profile, like originals.
Ideas welcome!
Gotta say that after clean and polish, this thing looks nice!
I had some 700c tires from the Fuji laying around; they are wider and a bit TALLER. And the TALL is where I ran into a snag -- it began hitting the brake caliper when the tire was fully inflated.
So I need wide and a bit low-profile, like originals.
Ideas welcome!
#24
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I had a 89 miyata 1400 I could put 28 on it but it was close. 28's that worked were vittoria corsa and Conti GP 5000
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Congratulations.
You are hard-core!
I have been bitten by that timeout thing, too, and BF loses good posts because of it.
You are hard-core!
I have been bitten by that timeout thing, too, and BF loses good posts because of it.
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