Ablaut

That looks like an 80mm stem right there, have you measured it? Anyway, I say wait until the bars arrive and pop them in for a sec, then see how stretched out/cramped you are... and only then proceed on deciding stem length. It'll also depend on how your seat is adjusted, so make sure you're comfy with that first.

sjpitts 

I have not measured the stem I have. I just assumed it was way shorter because of the picture. Where do you measure the length of the stem at? If I have an 80mm I really should just try it.

But one more general question about stems-- how do you know what "height" you need? I just assumed that with these kinds of stems you can move it up and down pretty easy-- and that the height of the stem did not really matter. Or that they were all the same height. Is that wrong? Do I need to measure the height of the stem I have? Or can you tell me what height I would need for an 61cm frame?

I am sorry if these are dumb questions.

Jared

miamijim

Jared, don't assume you need a shorter stem just because the frames 1 size to big. Not all copmaies used different length top tubes with each change in frame size.

Most of the older quilstems have a similar angle to them. Handlebar height is adjusted by how much it's inserted into the fork.

Stems are available with different (more steep) angles.

Ablaut

Exactly what Jim said. I have a 61cm Schwinn with a 57cm top tube. I have another 61cm frame with a 60cm top tube. So it really depends.

As for stem height, it's what you're comfortable with and where on the bars your hands will be most often. I usually have the tops of my bars level or a few cm below my saddle. Others have it dropped way lower.

Another thing... don't assume you're asking dumb questions, 'cos you're not!

sjpitts 

I measured, and the reach of the stem I have is 60mm. Measured center to center. Measured the top tube and it is 22.5 inches-- 57 cm.

But you give good advice. I will see how it feels with the new bars and the stem I have.

Jared

sjpitts 

Back to the Schwinn Circuit. I am starting to think that this bike is going to fit me. Even though it is a 61 cm frame, the top tube length is just a tad over 57cm. According to the bike calculator I used, a 57cm top tube is supposed to work for me.

So I bought a 46cm pair of handlebars from forum member and a 90mm nitto stem from craigslist. But even before I got the handlebars in the mail I found a new pair of 46cm nitto noodle handlebars at a bike swap meet. I bought those as well, thinking I could put one of them on the ProTour if I end up keeping it.

Then discovered that the nitto stem was a 25.4, and did not fit either of the handlebars. So I got another stem-- this one was a 120mm 3ttt stem with the right 26mm opening.

So I put on the noodle and the 3ttt stem on the bike last night, along with some cheap teckto brake levers. I did not really how to position the handlebars or the brake levers. But after trial and error, I ended up with the bars and brakes as shown in the pictures.

So how does it look? I really had no idea how high the brakes should be, I just tried to copy what I have seen others do.

I rode it around a bit (not much, given that it had no functioning brakes). I would say that it feels pretty darn good. But I also think the 120mm stem might really be too long. Right now I feel like the bike is very comfortable with my hands right on the spot where the brakes and handlebars meet. But if I move my hands on top of the brakes (where those nice little hand-holds are), it feels like I am stretching just a bit too far to be comfortable for the long term. OTOH, it feels OK in the drops.

Right now I am tempted to try and find a 100mm stem, and see if that feels better. Maybe the third stem will be the charm. OTOH, maybe I should ride if with the 120mm stem for a while and see if I get used to it? The problem with me making this kind of decision is that I am such a newbie that I don't know what it should feel like. Any advice on this? BTW, the bike calc said I should be using a 100mm-110mm stem.

Jared

PS: If this fits, I may get the frame powder coated. That will have to be the next topic.

miamijim

Your levers look OK. Back in the day we'd put a striaght edge along the bottom of the bar and adjust the levers so the bottom tips were even with the straight edge and go from there. Raising the levers will effectively shorten the stem yet increase lever reach while in the drops.

Caferacernoc

If you aren't used to riding roadbikes yet I would raise the stem a bit until you get a "feel" for it.

sjpitts 

So are you saying I would get used to the longer stem given some time? Or are you talking about something else?

Jared

JunkYardBike

If your saddle height is right, and your knee over pedal position is comfortable, but you find yourself sliding forward on your saddle, it's likely the reach to your bars is too long. You'll have to ride a bit to figure it out.

FWIW, I've found that those Nitto bars combined with Tektro or Cane Creek ergo levers make for a much longer reach on the hoods than traditional bars and levers (e.g. Cinelli 64's with non-aero levers). So you may indeed want to try a shorter stem.

sjpitts 

I have no idea what you mean by "knee over pedal position". I will have to research that.

I do have another bar, and I have the original dia-comp aero brake levers. Maybe I should try those. I wasn't sure which brake levers I was going to use anyway-- but I tried the Tektro first because I did not have any hoods for the dia-comp.

Thanks

Jared

Ablaut

He's talking about raising the stem vertically so that your bars are more level with your seat. This will give you a more relaxed position. Unless of course they're totally comfortable as they are.

Ablaut

Knee-over pedal position is when your crank arm is at 3-o'clock and your knee is over the pedal. This depends on the position of your seat. Anyway, it's still pretty agressive, a lot of people have their knees slightly behind that.

JunkYardBike

It's a big can of worms, and there's no definitive position for every rider. I just mean that if you are sliding forward on your saddle, it may be because the reach on your bars is too great. Or it may be because your saddle is too far back. I don't know if you're experiencing this, but it's something to consider. It's easier to move your saddle forward a bit, first, before swapping the stem out, to see if this increases comfort. But it appears you've already made your decision to try a shorter stem.

Anyway, if you really want to read about KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle) this is a good place to start:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html

JunkYardBike

Oh, definitely stick with the Tektro's. They are far more comfortable (at least for me) and it's likely they have mechanical advantages over the older Dia-Compes.

Caferacernoc

Yeah, you might find over time you would like a longer reach than when you first start. Also, a long reach won't seem as extreme if you raise the bars more level with your seat.

sjpitts 

Ok, if you had seen my other threads, you know that I bought a bike that fits. A nice clean schwinn paramount. A very nice bike. I need to pay for the new one, so I need to sell this one. It makes me sad, this is a nice bike. But it does not fit, so there is no sense in keeping it.

How much should I ask for it?

Since I bought the bike I put a nice 3ttt stem and handlebar on the bike. (the nittos went on the paramount). I also got some new tektro brake levers, a used but nice seat and new bar tape and brake cables (that are not yet installed).

I have been watching for these bikes. There are not many of them around. I saw a guy selling a bare frame for 150. I saw another guy selling a complete bike on CL for 300.

This bike is solid, but cosmetically rough in places. Surface rust on some components. White paint splotches on the frame. But I am sure it could be repainted and made very nice. If it was 58 cm I would have had it powder coated and not bought the paramount.

What is it worth?

Jared

JunkYardBike

Part it out. Sell what you don't want, keep components that might be useful to you in the future. Most of the value is in the frameset anyway.

You can sell me the brake levers.

sjpitts 

Ok, I am still going to sell this bike. And I have pretty much decided to strip it and sell the frame. In fact, I already have my eye on a couple of 58 cm frames that will do the trick.

But I have a question about the headset on this bike. It says "Paramount Stronglight". Given that I own one, the word paramount now catches my attention when I see it. I also did a search and found that some stronglight headsets are well thought of.

So does this one have any particular value? I was planning on just selling with the frame, but I don't want to do something foolish.

Jared

/Note that I recently paid for the upgrade membership, so as to not violate the no selling rule when asking such specific questions.

miamijim

The headsets nothing special but it is special. The Panasonic built Schwinns take a 30.0mm diameter cup whereas most other bikes take 30.2mm cups.

Because of the 30.0mm cup size my Circuit is built with full Dura Ace STI with the exception of the headset. I've been looking.....

afilado

I believe that headset is a rebadged A9 which employs roller bearings rather than ball bearings. If so, it is highly desirable and is no longer produced. You'll be sorry if you sell it.

It's easy to check the ID.

Also, I believe the Circuit was built in Mississippi in the Schwinn plant.

sjpitts 

That is what I thought about the headset. And it does have roller bearings. I checked. It could maybe use new ones. But I have had the frame on CL (and here) for several weeks, with me repeatedly dropping the price and still no takers. What is up with that?

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/1261430027.html

I think I need to learn to 1) sell on ebay; and 2)ship.

Jared

miamijim

Too much nonsense.

Thats it, nothing more nothing less

afilado

Yep. In a nutshell.

J