malcala622

I noticed the smallest cog from my freewheel was too close to the DS drop. Using a crankset from my Gios and a chain I had absolutely no clearance. I moved the silver spacer from the NDS to DS of the hub axle. Worked perfectly.

Also did a quick new grease job on the hub bearings.

merziac

Often nothing quick about this, many a lad have had plenty of experience with this and still get reduced to mush by it. a collection of items and a serious hunt and peck, swap in and swap out till you get there is what it can take.

Also plenty here that know this sort of thing much better, hopefully they will chime in.

SurferRosa

As far as spindle length goes, I look for a chainline around 4.3-4.5 cm as measured from the middle of the seat tube to the middle of the two chainrings (if using a double with two chainrings).

noglider 

@JacobLee, I suggest you replace those calipers. Despite the Dura Ace name, these are not very good. It was the first time they used that name, and it was later when they decided to put it on their best offerings.

JacobLee 

I’m inclined to agree with you on this, Tom. I knew they were nothing special, but they are a bit of a novelty, so I thought I’d give ‘em a shot. I’ve been able to keep the pads from moving around, but I’m still not sure I’m in love with them. Took a ride yesterday with some really steep descents and they were just barely cutting it. They seem to do pretty well on Ebay!

SurferRosa

@JacobLee, I'd replace the pads before you replace the calipers. Pads with long studs, even though they're threaded, remind me of the type usually used with cantilevers. Those aren't necessary at all with your center pulls and just make things more complex than they need to be. And they look a little out of place.

JacobLee 

True, these are cyclocross cartridge pads, used on cyclocross bikes with canti’s. They’re a little more presentable than using v-brake pads when you’re trying to get a centerpull to play nice with a narrow 700c wheel swap. I have a new set of salmon Kool-Stop Continentals and they just aren’t thick enough to hit the rim squarely. I don’t like these brakes enough to track down just the right pads, but if you have any suggestions, I’m open to them!

Drillium Dude 

Swapped out these:



For these:



Prepping the Super for the new owner. The milled levers bend - and threaten to break - when going from small to big ring. Hopefully it stays dry so I can do a final function check before the new owner assumes the watch on Wednesday.

DD

thumpism 

Not so much wrenching on as wrestling with. The Cannondale hybrid I found in the co-op's dumpster found a fan in trailmix , who has shown some interest in rehoming it. I finally gave up on finding a box of the proper dimensions and decided to make my own, so this thing will finally be able to leave my garage and go away.

gaucho777 

A couple French things and a mixte for my daughter.

brandenjs

Rebuilding a very nice condition Ross Signature 294S and just took this shot looking down the row of wall hangers to see what the next rebuild will be.

thumpism 

The Caliente does not belong in that group, so I'd skip that one.

brandenjs

I knew that would be the first one anyone would point out. LOL! That is the wifes bike from high school so it’s a sentimental thing.

brandenjs

Tear down complete on the Ross 294s. I love when the bench is covered in cool parts!

merziac

Appears to be lugged steel with nice scalloped seat stay caps so.........

ridelikeaturtle

Removed the bottom bracket from my steel Colnago. The bearings felt fine, but a new Chorus Ultra-Torque crankset is coming my way, and the Italian cups just arrived so I thought I'd get a head start on this.

I'm really glad I did, I've never had this bottom bracket apart - never needed to, but I do know it's something that should be done yearly, but certainly 99% of us don't.

It was not easy, even soaked with WD-40 and with my giant cheater bar everything was "at the limit" and I was slightly concerned I might strip the teeth on the bottom bracket. Obviously, that didn't happen. Nice to get it out and cleaned up, and ready for a newer crankset with outboard cups.

merziac

@ridelikeaturtle

Great work, glad you were successful getting out in front of it.

I don't do it yearly BUT I always remove the fixed cup when I have one apart, every time, period.

And am always amazed at the derision when we have this discussion.

JaccoW

It's always a surprise what you will find in those places and I too have had my share of stuck bottom brackets that needed cheater bars.

I decided I wanted to use the front rando bag on my other bikes as well and while the magnetic fittings of the Restrap x Pelago work pretty well they are also wider that the normal rando bags.
So I got myself a pair of Grand Bois 'Velo du Reve' EB bag clamps so the bag can be used on both the SilverAce, my girlfriend's Gazelle Lausanne and the WorldTraveller.





Still needs some slight cleanup on the inside but it feels solid as a rock.

malcala622

Touched up the panto on this SR crankset for a buddy. I painted the flutes but they didn't look right to me so I removed the enamel paint.

ridelikeaturtle

I picked up a Trek Y11 back in December, knowing the rear pivot bushing was a bit worn, and a little sloppy - and also knowing these aren't available. On the bright side, I got a very nice little bike for not much money.

I did find a pivot bushing for a Fisher Sugar, and took a chance that it was either the same or close... and I got lucky! Same all around, just slightly longer. Got out my grinder, finished it off with the file, and voila! It's much, much better now, a lot less slop than before.

[Edit] the bushing I used is for a Fisher Sugar, "Pivot Axle Bushing", I got it from pedalon[dot]co[dot]uk, their reference number is W200091. Maybe this can help someone in the future looking to replace the pivot bushing for any Trek Y11, Y22, or Y33 (it's all the same frame).

Sir_Name 

I went from 48/16 to 46/18. It’s a bit hilly here depending on route, so tough to balance staying on top of the gear for the most part without hitting that valve float feeling too often.

capnjonny 

Been working on this 1975 Windsor Carrera special . I just painted the frame cherry red and am waiting on decals . I also just finished painting an SR Semi Pro. It is hammered Copper. You can see the fork in the second picture. After a lot of trouble with the Rustoleum Clear which aligatored the paint, I finally got a nice coat of paint on it. I am not going to use clear anymore except over old hard paint. The acetone solvent in the clear reacts with the paint underneath unless it is VERY well cured.

xiaoman1 

cyccommute
Picked this up on Sunday and doing the usual service...Thanks to Stuart's advice (honestly why haven't we been doing this all along, nothing like the B.W.E!) it made removing and servicing the BB a breeze. I used a socket instead of BB cup. The hardest part was cleaning off the dried Campy grease on the cups and bearings.
It's relatively clean with just very minor chips to the paint.
I will be ordering some other consumables later.

Best, Ben

denaffen

I really should have measured the Nyala specs before ordering the headset. That was a big time suck of a mistake. "Luckily" it's too cold to ride it anyway. https://www.re-cycled.net/posts/2021/02/nyala-oops/

Jmpierce

I just picked up this last Friday.


I was looking for a frame to build and came across this on Craig's list. Never was a big Bianchi geek but once the weather clears up I'll ride it and see what the fuss is all about. I stripped everything off and cleaned and waxed the frame. Lubed all the bearings, replaced the Shimano cartridge bearing bottom bracket (don't think that was original) with a SKF roller bearing bb, new gear cables and San Marco saddle.

I ordered a pair of Modolo brake levers and Celeste cable housing.