cheesesandwich

Made a novice mistake of applying the brake when the front wheel was removed. The old brake pads were still there so I assume it acted as a safety feature. But as I was changing the pad I felt a tiny bit of oil on the brakeset. Not much as I don't see any drip on my rim or the floor. Lets just say as a comparison, I prick my finger with a needle and a bit of blood comes out, that's how I felt with the oil. But I am left wondering if that is enough to create a small pocket of air in the reservoir. After everything fixed up, there is a little rubbing of the disc. Is that a possibility of pocket of air not making the pads fully open? or is that just normal for a new set of pad that breaking in can solve?

cxwrench

Not possible to say with any certainty via the internet.

sapporoguy

1) Does your brake lever feel a little mushier than before? Or pull in farther? That was a sign of air in my HY/RD, which I bled out.
2) Did you press the pads/pistons back into the calipers before putting the wheel back? They might rub if you didn't push them back before working the lever.

cheesesandwich

It felt ok and I did push the pistons back. Guess I will find out more later after my ride.

sapporoguy

I also regularly re-align my HY/RD, even after I take the wheel off. A rub seems to occur even when it shouldn't.
It's super-easy to do and seems to correct any rubbing.
The procedure TRP calls for, roughly:
-Turn the thumbwheel to lock the cable clamp, loosen the cable bolt, pull the cable tight, tighten the cable bolt, then unlock the thumbscrew.
-Loosen the two bolts holding the caliper on, hold in the brake lever so it clamps down on the rotor (or just push the piston plunger in with your thumb) and centers the pads, then tighten.
I find this doesn't always center the pads--still some rub--in which case I loosen the bolts just a little, center it while eyballing the slivers of light coming through past the pads until it's even, then tighten.
That usually gets rid of rub, unless the rotor is out of true.