mdsalemi

Except for one guy I met on the forum here, never heard of or have seen another Lupo. As mine is SN 221 clearly they were not common.

mdsalemi

As mentioned in the first posting in this thread, back in the mid 1970s, "before it was cool", my brother and I decided to have all of our "alloy" components black anodized. This was before things like this were offered from the manufacturers. Well, it was cool until everyone was doing it. But, no matter, it looked great for many years. Like many coatings however, it wore off, aged off, faded and the like. So as part of this go around, I've de-anodized the components.

De-anodizing is not a perfect science. It's a combination of various dips and sprays with caustics (such as Oil Eater, or ZEP Purple degreasers) followed by acid sprays (Meguiars Chrome Wheel cleaner, with phosphoric acid and ammonium biflouride). Some mechanical action with scrubby pads and brushes.

So far, got the chainring set, Cinelli stem, and one brake done. I have one last brake to do, and then the cages on the Weyless pedals. Those are proving to be quite troublesome; only about 80% of the anodizing is coming off. I may have to come up with a plan B. No I don't yet have a plan B.


De-Anodized components

repechage

looked up jasco anodizing remover, seems to be discontinued.

If you google removing anodizing, there are a number of strategies. there is a thread in the BMX museum forum on the subject.

Easy-off oven cleaner was good, but in California... not now.

satbuilder 

Michael Gamstetter has a blog with an entry concerning Lupo Mascheroni and his bikes.
https://fortyfour16.wordpress.com/gi...t-ive-learned/

merziac

@mdsalemi

De-anodizing is not a perfect science. It's a combination of various dips and sprays with caustics (such as Oil Eater, or ZEP Purple degreasers) followed by acid sprays (Meguiars Chrome Wheel cleaner, with phosphoric acid and ammonium biflouride). Some mechanical action with scrubby pads and brushes.

So far, got the chainring set, Cinelli stem, and one brake done. I have one last brake to do, and then the cages on the Weyless pedals. Those are proving to be quite troublesome; only about 80% of the anodizing is coming off. I may have to come up with a plan B. No I don't yet have a plan B.


De-Anodized components [/QUOTE]

I use industrial strength drain cleaner from HD, proceed with extreme caution, sometimes goes too fast, sometimes works just right.

Dip and soak for a few minutes then dip in plain water, scrub with plain sturdy rag and brass bristle brush if needed, repeat as necessary, again, proceed with caution.

mdsalemi

Wow—thanks for that! There is a possibility I have a photo taken when either I ordered the bike or picked it up in July 1972. I am going to have to find my box of slides and look through it. That is a great photo in the blog you sent the link to, and I distinctly remember Lupo himself pulling down a bicycle off the hanger and letting me ride around the neighborhood; The signature on the frame was Roger DeVlaeminck.

satbuilder 

A new thread popped up on the Italian Vintage Bikes Facebook page, with some nice photos of a Lupo.

mdsalemi

Work in process

De-anodized crank, back to natural aluminum.

Olympic Rings decal

Rear wheel cleaned and re-installed

RustyJames 

mdsalemi ....Deviation.... that Pagoda-top M-B is AWESOME!!

pastorbobnlnh 

I beg to disagree--- the Suntour Winner wide-range five-speed freewheel is MORE AWESOME!!!!!

Actually, the Lupo is spectacular!

mdsalemi

Thank you—fully restored 1969 280SL. Been in the family since 1969, I rescued it in 1999, had it restored 1999-2001.

mdsalemi

Installed the rebuilt brakes, and the pads are at the top of the adjustment, and perfectly aligned with the rims now. There does appear to be about 4-5mm of drop left in the brake arms...

mdsalemi

The Suntour wide range freewheel was a good find. At the time I made the change to a wider range, silly me forgot all the things that needed changing! My Nuovo Record rear changer could only handle what, 14-28? I wanted more. So I realized I needed a Rally changer, and found one NOS. Of course I needed a larger freewheel and found this Suntour that's 14-34, also found NOS. Once I got those parts in, it dawned on me immediately that I'd need a few more parts: a longer shift cable, and a a new longer housing in the back that runs from the chain stay to the Rally. But of course I needed a new chain, too, one a bit longer. The chain I had been running was a Shimano "Ultra Glide" with "bowed outer plates" which allowed for easier shifting; I'd had that on since the late 1970s. That chain was no longer available, and I thought a new one would be an easier find that it was. I found a proper sized 10-speed chain, buried at a local sporting goods shop amongst the chains designed for 6, 7 and larger cogs, the chains getting progressively narrower for less and less spacing between the gears.

Right now the bike is very close to being completely re-assembled. Derailleurs all installed, just needing final adjustment. Brakes are installed. I'm debating on dumping the Weyless seat post and returning to the original Campy. I've decided to change the pedals, and will sell the extremely rare Weyless set; though nice, and fully rebuilt, they were never original to the bike and thus no love lost in selling those. Ditto for the seat post.

Those Campy brakes are truly amazing. Something like 25 or 26 distinct parts, and they are a dream. They install easy, adjust easy, and stay adjusted. The poor man's version, the Weinmann 500s, we used to keep in our shop as replacements. The Weinmanns were a bit simpler. I am constantly infuriated by these modern "V-Brakes" that I'm seeing on a lot of mountain bikes. Not once has anyone brought a bike to me for repair that had them adjusted properly, and on some of them they simply cannot be adjusted; the quality isn't there. My older Trek 930 had simpler cantilever brakes that stayed adjusted for over 20 years.

But nothing beats those Campy brakes.

repechage

Handsome car, myMom drove the car behind and to the immediate left as the family car, 1966 to 1982. My brother has it now, he needed a car as his truck was stolen.

pastorbobnlnh 

I have the Campagnolo Record brake calipers on my '71 Schwinn Paramount and Super Sport and can't agree more. Keep their adjustment and stopping power always dialed in!

repechage

Yes, but what pads are you using?

Does make a difference.

pastorbobnlnh 

Salmon Kool Stops, of course!

mdsalemi

I’ve been using original Campy brake pads. They stop like nobody’s business and they wear like iron.

Got my bike together yesterday completely. I realized the seat was a little too high so I lowered it and tightened the Campy seat post bolt. The seat still moved around so I went to tighten it up a little more and snap! 😞 there goes the bolt! So much for my





trial ride yesterday! I’m not about to pay $90 for a used Campy version so will settle for an $8 Sugino until I can find one a little more reasonable in price

All new Shimano cables, everything went in as smooth as silk. I elected to change the pedals to Shimano‘s with STB fittings. My bike is not and has never been a museum piece and will be ridden so this is a concession to riding. I am in the process of restoring the Weyless pedals I’ve had on the bike since 1977 and will probably sell those when done.

KonAaron Snake 

Correction - Daniel Marnati

satbuilder 

Hey Aaron,

After re-reading what I wrote, I can understand why it may be a bit confusing.
The Marnati I have is circa ~1974. I didn't have a frame built.

KonAaron Snake 

Got it! I’m also easily confused, so there’s that. Gorgeous bike.

Marco Rollo

Beautiful bike! Did you use new decals? As I am looking for new decals for my Lupo too. So I'd like to know if there are sets available, or printers who have the designs to reach out too. Cheers!

Marco Rollo

Hello everyone! I am looking for new decals for my Lupo frame dated 1970. So I'd like to know if there are sets available to buy, or printers who have the designs to reach out to. Cheers!

oneclick 

Drop bolt.