SoSmellyAir

I am in the process of installing new cables and housings. This time, instead of Shimano kits, I bought Jagwire compressionless brake housing.

Jagwire says: POP (Point Of Power) end caps are designed specifically for use with 5mm compressionless brake housing. This type of housing requires an end cap, but not all frames and brake calipers are built to accept a standard-size end cap. POP end caps act as a reducer, allowing compressionless housing to be used in these situations.

• When to use: If you’re upgrading to compressionless housing POP end caps are needed with some brakes that aren’t built for end caps

Jagwire End Caps Guide | Jagwire

Jagwire also says: Alternatively, if the caliper does not fit an open end cap, or it is a direct-mount or linear-pull brake with a noodle, use a POP end cap (D). Note that an end cap must be used at each cut end of the compressionless housing.

20442_JAG_Road_PRO_Brake_DIY_INST_VF.pdf (jagwire.com); see Fig. 6b.

However, neither type of Jagwire end caps (i.e., ferrules) fit within the brake housing tunnel of a Shimano STI lever. Are these end caps required only for the frame and brake calipers? They are not needed for the STI levers, right?

csport

Jagwire Pro brake housing comes with the so-called EZ-Bend housing segments which are to be inserted into STI levers. The other end of this segment has an integrated ferrule required for the compressionless housing.

I have Tektro cross levers and I simply ran regular Shimano housing from the STI levers to the cross levers. Jagwire Pro housing with its appropriate ferrule runs from the cross levers to the calipers.

I think it is not a good idea to use compressionless housing without a ferrule because it has longitudinal wires similar to shifter housing and the ferrule is there to prevent them from moving.

Edit: link to EZ-Bend housing segment - it should come with Jagwire Road Pro brake cable kit

SoSmellyAir

This makes sense but I am concerned that the interface between the EZ-Bend segment and the compressionless brake housing would become loose since the housings are run through a channel in the handlebar rather than taped against the handlebar.

I just bought the Jagwire Pro housings, not the kit, so I only have the two types of end caps, not the EZ-Bend segments.

delbiker1 

I recently installed a Jagwire Pro Brake Kit on a bike with disc brakes. I’ll be going back to regular Shimano stainless kit next time. Price, easy installation, good quality and performance, durability, all just fine with me.

ScottCommutes

Dang, man. I pay $10 on Amazon for a full set of brake and shifter cables and housings and endcaps. These work well enough for me. My commute is long and I try to keep the momentum flowing, so I'm not a power user of the brakes.

smd4

I use Aican compressionless cables, probably similar to Jagwire, and the end ferrules didn't fit into my DA 7700 brake caliper adjusting screws. I swapped them out for DA-7400 adjusters and the cable ferrules fit perfectly.

I can't speak highly enough of compressionless brake housing. And it's 30% lighter than regular housing, to boot!

csport

They can be purchased separately, Jenson, CBO and many other places have them.

I did not have a problem with the interface becoming loose, I think the cable tension will first of all push the housing into the ferrule.

For the same reason the longitudinal wires near the end of the housing inserted into the STI lever will move further into the lever unless there is a firm stop there. This is not a problem for the regular coiled housing, and the EZ-Bend segment is just a piece of the coiled housing with an integrated ferrule at the end.

PromptCritical 

Anyone use compressionless cable housings for the rear derailleur on a tandem?

SoSmellyAir

I also have a Shimano Dura-Ace brake kit, but now that I am on rim braked carbon fiber wheels, every little bit helps?

I just ordered a pack.

Yes, good point re: cable tension keeping both sections of the housing together.

Thank you for your detailed explanation (here and above). I peered into the brake housing tunnel of the STI lever body (with a flashlight), and the opening (for the brake cable) at the far end is small, comparable to the opening of a ferrule. In other words, that tunnel has the shape of a ferrule. So I suppose the question is whether the material of the STI lever body is sufficiently firm to withstand the longitudinal strands of the brake housing?

Rick

I use Yokozuna compressionless brake housing. It is the only compressionless housing on the market that I have found to actually be compressionless.

KCT1986

The EZ bend segment is for use when the routing from the brifter needs to make a hard bend, either at the brifter/hbar junction or next to the bar. It uses a wound housing in this section so it can bend and also acts like normal brake housing in the brifter tunnel. Jagwire probably uses something like their CEX (lower compression wound) housing for the flexible section.

With the compressionless housing into the brifter, the 'tunnel' would need to be the right ID to keep the housing reasonably 'lined-up' with the hole for the inner cable. If it hits the bottom of the bore at an angle, it will put strain on some of the lateral wire.

The effect would be similar to using 5mm housing end on 4mm shifter cable. Here the poorly matched housing/end misalignment allows the housing strands to push through the ferrule.

SoSmellyAir

Maybe I should have said "lumen" instead of "tunnel"?

I had hoped to use just the Jagwire Pro compressionless brake housing, but judging by the relative ease with which I removed the prior Shimano brake housing from the "tunnel" in the STI lever body, I would guess that the tunnel is a good fit but likely not as tight as a ferrule, so I plan to use the Jagwire EZ bend segment as you and csport have suggested. Let's hope that the ferrule on the end of the EZ bend does not rattle within the handlebar channel!

KCT1986

Another possible option, is to use a small washer at the end of the housing to 'square off' the load that may be presented by a slightly 'cocked' alignment.

For shifter housing, I drop these little washers into the plastic housing end ferrules to better support the strands. It reduces the 'settling' that happens and require very little further adjustment to indexing.

veganbikes

Ok?

I would recommend one buying good quality cables and housing like the Jagwire Pro and Elite kits. Buy them from an actual bike shop even an online bike shop that are authorized dealers. Those will be much better than whatever $10 stuff Billionaire Bezos is pushing. You may not have used better cables and housing so you may not have ever gotten to experience the difference especially long term but it does make a huge difference. The cheaper non-stainless cables that you get at the bargain bin prices are more susceptible to rust and may not be as smooth and with similar housing it is not going to give you nice smooth confident shifting and braking which is pretty handy for both since it is a major function of the bike. Even the Jagwire Sport kits are big step up from whatever $10 get you and with the kits you will usually have leftover housing and bits and bobs for the parts bin so if something happens you can quickly and easily replace stuff and just buy some Jagwire cables.

You want a good well made housing with good slick polished stainless cables that are uncoated. For brakes especially disc brakes compressionless housing is very important to better braking so you can use less brake because they will work better. If you are someone running through cables often the nice cables and housing should last a little longer if installed properly.

About the only time I might use something cheap is in an emergency to get me back on the road, it is not something I would want to use in my daily usage especially not commuting. I think all of my bikes are running Jagwire. 2 bikes with Elite, 3 bikes with Pro and the rest are sport but the sport bikes are rim brake and one is really rarely ridden and the other is a parts bin bike which sees a decent amount of riding but shifts nicely.

ScottCommutes

Interesting take. I may have to try a set of better cables. Here is a link to the ones I buy from Amazon, where they are the #1 best seller in bike cables:

​​​​​​https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

These are stainless steel cables, according to the description. I understand that steel comes in all kinds and qualities of alloys, but these are likely not as bad as you make them out to be.

SoSmellyAir

I plan to use my Dremel to square off the end of the housings after cutting and before inserting them into ferrules.

After all this is said and done, my braking using the prior Shimano brake housing (came with bike from factory, not the Dura-Ace brake kit) has been fine, so I wonder how much of an improvement I will see from all this effort.

veganbikes

Yes get some nice Jagwire stuff from an authorized dealer, you won't be disappointed (if installed correctly).

For 10 dollars they cannot be quite as good as you make them out to be, maybe not as terrible but not something I would put on a commuter. I also don't have any brakas on my bike so I don't need cables for them. I am sure they are short term functional but there is something you won't see and they won't ever talk about in why they are so cheap.

smd4

They’re just run of the mill cables and housing. They’ll do the job. Just not as efficiently or smoothly.

Russ Roth

Modern der housing is compressionless. Compressionless brake housing is designed similar to derailleur but has an additional reinforcing wrap around the wire strands to keep them from blowing out the side of the housing covers from the additional strain that a brake lever provides.

Tape it down, it won't rattle. Brake housing should be taped down with scotch tape in 2-3 spots under the handlebar tape area to make it easier to wrap the bars.

SoSmellyAir

The housings are partially routed internally through the handlebar I plan to install. There is room for the housings but the ferrule connecting the EZ bend to the Pro compressionless housing would be inaccessible within the handlebar.

3alarmer 

...the die drawn, slick stainless cables are much smoother, and reduce friction between cable and housing quite a bit. I can't really explain how different they feel in use, except recommend you try them. They make a large difference in derailleur applications. I don't know much about using them for brakes.