older with better components vs newer with lesser components
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older with better components vs newer with lesser components
Hello bikeforums community
Completely new to bicycling here, but I've been wanting to get a bike for a while. My girlfriend got a hand me down from her sister last summer, so I need to catch up so we can go riding together.
So my question is, would it be better to buy an older model with better components or newer with lesser components. I tried doing a search, but was unsuccessful, so I'm sorry if this is a tired topic.
Specifically, I'm looking at a 2011 bmc slr01 with sram force components vs a 2013/14 bmc slr02 with 105 components. I'm assuming that a lower ranked component group won't necessarily perform worse than an older, higher ranked group, am I correct?
How do you guys who have experience in biking approach this? I like the good things life, but I'm also of the mind that I find it uncomfortable to be completely new at something, like biking, yet own and ride a really nice bike. I feel like I haven't paid my dues. I'm hoping that starting off with a used bike will out those concerns at ease. So, community, any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Completely new to bicycling here, but I've been wanting to get a bike for a while. My girlfriend got a hand me down from her sister last summer, so I need to catch up so we can go riding together.
So my question is, would it be better to buy an older model with better components or newer with lesser components. I tried doing a search, but was unsuccessful, so I'm sorry if this is a tired topic.
Specifically, I'm looking at a 2011 bmc slr01 with sram force components vs a 2013/14 bmc slr02 with 105 components. I'm assuming that a lower ranked component group won't necessarily perform worse than an older, higher ranked group, am I correct?
How do you guys who have experience in biking approach this? I like the good things life, but I'm also of the mind that I find it uncomfortable to be completely new at something, like biking, yet own and ride a really nice bike. I feel like I haven't paid my dues. I'm hoping that starting off with a used bike will out those concerns at ease. So, community, any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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I'm not familiar enough with the BMC models to know if there's a significant difference between the SLR01 and SLR02. However, I'd go with whichever fit me best. If both are equal, I'd go with low cost. Are both being sold through a local bike shop? Equivalent warranties, after sales support, etc. Not that any of these answers are deal breakers, but there is some value (to some people) to buying locally.
Frankly if I was brand new to biking, I'm not sure I'd buy either one. I'd want to hedge my bets with something decent, but low cost, just in case I decided biking isn't for me. YMMV.
Frankly if I was brand new to biking, I'm not sure I'd buy either one. I'd want to hedge my bets with something decent, but low cost, just in case I decided biking isn't for me. YMMV.
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The bigger question is do you have a preference of Sram or Shimano?
2011 Sram Force is a great gruppo, so if its not beat up and worn, i'd go for it over the newer 105.
2011 Sram Force is a great gruppo, so if its not beat up and worn, i'd go for it over the newer 105.
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Ride them both. Sram and Shimano are apples and oranges so you can't compare them directly. The new 5800 11 speed 105 is a great deal so maybe consider some new 2015 models with 105
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what is the overall difference in the frame/fork from one to the other? What wheels do they have? I am not familiar with SRAM, but the 105 is a great group as well. If both are equally new and frames the same, I would go with the one that has the better wheels and group set (if you rather have one or the other). Ride them and see which one speaks to you!
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For used bikes it really depends on how the bikes were ridden and how well maintained they were. Both 105 and Force work fine, there are differences in ergonomics and the way they shift, but you'll be a lot happier on a bike in good condition of either setup rather than one that has been ridden into the grave.
Edited to add: You don't need to earn a nice bike other than earning the money to buy it with. The cheaper groupsets tend to have 99% of the functionality of the expensive ones. Pro riders would still be way faster than people here even if they were on the lowest entry level bike and we were on $20000 bikes.
Edited to add: You don't need to earn a nice bike other than earning the money to buy it with. The cheaper groupsets tend to have 99% of the functionality of the expensive ones. Pro riders would still be way faster than people here even if they were on the lowest entry level bike and we were on $20000 bikes.
Last edited by milkbaby; 02-13-15 at 04:15 PM.
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I also don't agree with the thought you have to earn a certain level of bike by paying your dues. I started cheap when I got into riding and went through a few bikes getting to what I want and I kind of wish I spent more money up front because I would probably still have my first bike and have spent less in the long run. You know you budget and what you can afford to spend so spend what you are comfortable with. Used bikes that were well cared for can be a great deal. But if you have money to spend maybe look at something like a new CAAD10 with latest greatest components
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Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback. I have no preference as far as shimano vs sram because I've never own a nice bike (last one was a wal-mart special 10 speed in grade school). I chose bmc simply because I like the visual aesthetics, I always have, though I've never been on one. I've gone to the LBS and hopped on a couple of friends' bikes and they all feel great, simply because it's just so much more quality than what I'm used to. It's kind of like when you first start drinking beer, it's all bitter and taste nasty, doesn't matter if it's an IPA, lager, stout, etc. Basically, no preference on brand and such because I don't have the knowledge to differentiate too much between high caliber bikes.
I guess what I'm asking is, could a 2013/14/15 105 groupset outperform (due to technological improvements) an older ultegra groupset? In essense, can newer "lower hierarchy" component perform better than older "high hierarchy" components. I'm assuming there is a potential for that, but it would probably be a case by case basis.
I guess what I'm asking is, could a 2013/14/15 105 groupset outperform (due to technological improvements) an older ultegra groupset? In essense, can newer "lower hierarchy" component perform better than older "high hierarchy" components. I'm assuming there is a potential for that, but it would probably be a case by case basis.
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I guess what I'm asking is, could a 2013/14/15 105 groupset outperform (due to technological improvements) an older ultegra groupset? In essense, can newer "lower hierarchy" component perform better than older "high hierarchy" components. I'm assuming there is a potential for that, but it would probably be a case by case basis.
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Weren't the 2011 and earlier BMC's having a problem with being prone to cracking ror no apparent reason?
Google it....
But yeah, you get so much more bang for the buck buying used. My first road bike as a cheap-O new one. My bikes since then have been high-quality used ones. Get a top quality used one. It will add to your cycling enjoyment and make you want to ride more. It won't make you any faster, but you'll feel as though you are.
Google it....
But yeah, you get so much more bang for the buck buying used. My first road bike as a cheap-O new one. My bikes since then have been high-quality used ones. Get a top quality used one. It will add to your cycling enjoyment and make you want to ride more. It won't make you any faster, but you'll feel as though you are.
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I guess what I'm asking is, could a 2013/14/15 105 groupset outperform (due to technological improvements) an older ultegra groupset? In essense, can newer "lower hierarchy" component perform better than older "high hierarchy" components. I'm assuming there is a potential for that, but it would probably be a case by case basis.
Last edited by kingfishr; 02-14-15 at 12:52 AM.
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I've ridden bikes my whole life, never cared about components. Bought my first road bike two years ago and went with a new carbon bike with 105. I've ridden $7k bikes and $1k bikes, everything from Red to Sora and the differences are apparent but minimal in terms of performance. You will always be the weakest link on a bike IMO. Go for a better frame because that will dictate the ride, components in the Shimano line really differ in weight first and performance second.
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Weren't the 2011 and earlier BMC's having a problem with being prone to cracking ror no apparent reason?
Google it....
But yeah, you get so much more bang for the buck buying used. My first road bike as a cheap-O new one. My bikes since then have been high-quality used ones. Get a top quality used one. It will add to your cycling enjoyment and make you want to ride more. It won't make you any faster, but you'll feel as though you are.
Google it....
But yeah, you get so much more bang for the buck buying used. My first road bike as a cheap-O new one. My bikes since then have been high-quality used ones. Get a top quality used one. It will add to your cycling enjoyment and make you want to ride more. It won't make you any faster, but you'll feel as though you are.
BMC does make a beautiful bike. There will always, be better and worse riders than you so don't worry about your riding ability and your bike. It's your bike and you should enjoy it.
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As for the BMC frames, the pre-2014 SLR01 and 02 frames are the same. The only difference being the paint job. However, for the 2014 and 15 models, the SLR01 is a different frame than the 02. The SLR01 is lighter, etc.
The 2011 model is the one with the seatpost without a collar ... the tightening mechanism is in the seatpost. They changed that with the 2012 model onwards. As an above poster has noted, there was a tendency for the 2011 seat tube to crack, which was solved by reintroducing the collar for the 2012.
I would personally choose Force over 105, especially if they are both 10 speed. If you can get the new 105 11-speed, I think that would make the decision a little more challenging. There is also a significant weight savings if you go with Force.
The 2011 model is the one with the seatpost without a collar ... the tightening mechanism is in the seatpost. They changed that with the 2012 model onwards. As an above poster has noted, there was a tendency for the 2011 seat tube to crack, which was solved by reintroducing the collar for the 2012.
I would personally choose Force over 105, especially if they are both 10 speed. If you can get the new 105 11-speed, I think that would make the decision a little more challenging. There is also a significant weight savings if you go with Force.
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sheesh 2011 vs 2013... practically the same year in the bicycle world, you're over thinking it. I thought this was going to be a thread about a twenty year old bike with Dura Ace vs a 2014 bike with Tiagra or Apex or something. LOL
The only thing to look at in regards to two recent bikes is the bottom-bracket style and maybe frame novelties that some manufacturers use (Trek using elastic shocks built into the frame tubing, for example). With much older bikes, hub spacing and fork dimensions become a concern... Generally speaking.
Personally, I think components make more of a difference unless you are a very powerful rider.
The only thing to look at in regards to two recent bikes is the bottom-bracket style and maybe frame novelties that some manufacturers use (Trek using elastic shocks built into the frame tubing, for example). With much older bikes, hub spacing and fork dimensions become a concern... Generally speaking.
Personally, I think components make more of a difference unless you are a very powerful rider.
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As for the BMC frames, the pre-2014 SLR01 and 02 frames are the same. The only difference being the paint job. However, for the 2014 and 15 models, the SLR01 is a different frame than the 02. The SLR01 is lighter, etc.
The 2011 model is the one with the seatpost without a collar ... the tightening mechanism is in the seatpost. They changed that with the 2012 model onwards. As an above poster has noted, there was a tendency for the 2011 seat tube to crack, which was solved by reintroducing the collar for the 2012.
I would personally choose Force over 105, especially if they are both 10 speed. If you can get the new 105 11-speed, I think that would make the decision a little more challenging. There is also a significant weight savings if you go with Force.
The 2011 model is the one with the seatpost without a collar ... the tightening mechanism is in the seatpost. They changed that with the 2012 model onwards. As an above poster has noted, there was a tendency for the 2011 seat tube to crack, which was solved by reintroducing the collar for the 2012.
I would personally choose Force over 105, especially if they are both 10 speed. If you can get the new 105 11-speed, I think that would make the decision a little more challenging. There is also a significant weight savings if you go with Force.
haha, and thanks for this too! "overthinking it" is probably correct! it's maddening but but enjoyable, looking for your first bike.