removing dropout set screws..?
11-10-10, 07:16 PM
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removing dropout set screws..?
i just picked up an old frame with campy semi-horizontal dropouts. they have some set screws, that i'd like to retain, but i gotta have the frame refinished. how do i go about this? i'd fiddle with them, but i don't want to hurt them. also, what's the best way to mask them off for the powdercoater? i'll probably ask the guys at the metal finisher, but i wanna be armed with suggestions, in case he's stumped...
thanks
-rob
thanks
-rob
11-10-10, 07:23 PM
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they're just nuts with bolts.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
11-10-10, 07:32 PM
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The knobs on the outside of the frame are caps. Hold the screw from the axle side of the dropout, then unscrew the from the axle side to remove.
11-10-10, 07:34 PM
#5
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cap on the back is a nut, it unscrews and then you unscrew the bolt forward with a screwdriver..
or it's rusted in place, then you just break off both ends and call it done.
or it's rusted in place, then you just break off both ends and call it done.
11-10-10, 07:38 PM
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it moves fine; i'll have em off in a minute. How should i mask the threads for the metAl finishers, do y'all reckon?
-rob
-rob
11-10-10, 07:42 PM
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Definitely remove them before painting the frame.
Screw off the little knurled nut at the end of the screw that's sticking out the back of the dropout. If it's been on there a long time it might need some penetrating oil and a torch. You'll need a long thin screwdriver to keep the screw from turning as you torque the nut, since the way you adjust them in the first place is by turning that nut with your fingers. Careful use of pliers, trying not to mar the knurlings, is OK if finger torque working against the screwdriver won't break it loose. Then use the same screwdriver to unscrew the screw, backing it out through the dropout. They don't look bent or particularly rusty so they should come out OK. If they are seized in place and heat and oil won't let the screwdriver turn them you are SOL.
Make sure your painter keeps the paint out of those tiny deep holes with their fine threads.
Grease them well when you put them back in and tighten the nuts only finger tight, just tight enough so that when you turn the nut counterclockwise, the screw turns but the nut stays on. Try not to let them get bent from banging stuff into the protruding ends.
If you are using modern derailleurs with B-tensioning screws you usually don't need these screws at all but they do make a classic bike look more complete. (If you are using a period-correct derailleur like a Campy NR or SR, you definitely do need the screws to find the optimal "set" to keep the jockey pulley from rattling against the biggest cog.)
Screw off the little knurled nut at the end of the screw that's sticking out the back of the dropout. If it's been on there a long time it might need some penetrating oil and a torch. You'll need a long thin screwdriver to keep the screw from turning as you torque the nut, since the way you adjust them in the first place is by turning that nut with your fingers. Careful use of pliers, trying not to mar the knurlings, is OK if finger torque working against the screwdriver won't break it loose. Then use the same screwdriver to unscrew the screw, backing it out through the dropout. They don't look bent or particularly rusty so they should come out OK. If they are seized in place and heat and oil won't let the screwdriver turn them you are SOL.
Make sure your painter keeps the paint out of those tiny deep holes with their fine threads.
Grease them well when you put them back in and tighten the nuts only finger tight, just tight enough so that when you turn the nut counterclockwise, the screw turns but the nut stays on. Try not to let them get bent from banging stuff into the protruding ends.
If you are using modern derailleurs with B-tensioning screws you usually don't need these screws at all but they do make a classic bike look more complete. (If you are using a period-correct derailleur like a Campy NR or SR, you definitely do need the screws to find the optimal "set" to keep the jockey pulley from rattling against the biggest cog.)
Last edited by conspiratemus1; 11-10-10 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Laughing because 5 responses, including 2 from the OP, came while I was making mine!
11-10-10, 07:49 PM
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Talk to your powder coater. The guy I used had a series of gadgets/plugs to fill holes and he made sure there was no coating in the shifter mounts and bottle cage thread holes. Same for the set-screw holes. A good powder coater knows not to let powder get where it isn't supposed to go. Also, talk to him about the cable guides on the top tube. If the powder goes on too thick the cable may not slide right through.
Good luck with that nishiki ultimate frame. I was looking at it on CL and thought it was a neat frame.
Mike
Good luck with that nishiki ultimate frame. I was looking at it on CL and thought it was a neat frame.
Mike
11-10-10, 07:52 PM
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they're out; no issues. i'm figuring i can do my best to mask it/make it clear that i don't want powder in there, but i can get all que sera sera if the threads get buggered and i end up not using them again. i'm rocking a b-screw equipped rd...
i'm psyched. just gotta remove the headset, pick out the right color, and i'm off...
-rob
i'm psyched. just gotta remove the headset, pick out the right color, and i'm off...
-rob
11-10-10, 07:56 PM
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Talk to your powder coater. The guy I used had a series of gadgets/plugs to fill holes and he made sure there was no coating in the shifter mounts and bottle cage thread holes. Same for the set-screw holes. A good powder coater knows not to let powder get where it isn't supposed to go. Also, talk to him about the cable guides on the top tube. If the powder goes on too thick the cable may not slide right through.
Good luck with that nishiki ultimate frame. I was looking at it on CL and thought it was a neat frame.
Mike
Good luck with that nishiki ultimate frame. I was looking at it on CL and thought it was a neat frame.
Mike
The frame is very nice. the finish, not so much. the headset is really pimp; it's just a levin, but it's got "tange-seiki levin japan" stamped on it, and the newer ones i've got don't. it is also in, like, perfect condition. Rolls smooth, too. i'm fairly stoked. Dude selling it posts on BF sometimes; really nice guy.
-rob
11-10-10, 07:57 PM
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If you are using modern derailleurs with B-tensioning screws you usually don't need these screws at all but they do make a classic bike look more complete. (If you are using a period-correct derailleur like a Campy NR or SR, you definitely do need the screws to find the optimal "set" to keep the jockey pulley from rattling against the biggest cog.)
11-10-10, 08:02 PM
#13
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You need to tap chase them back out to clean the threads up when the frame comes back
size M3 x 0.5 tp mm
size M3 x 0.5 tp mm
11-10-10, 08:09 PM
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Well, yes. You find the right fore-and-aft position for the right-side screw that lets the derailler ride properly, then you use the left-side screw to align the axle so the wheel is centred. But if you left the screws out you could just pull the axle all the way back into both dropouts and that should also centre the wheel, just as if you had modern vertical dropouts. I suppose the screws do allow some tolerance for error in brazing the dropouts exactly opposite each other....
11-11-10, 05:54 AM
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you should use a small standsrd screwdriver to insert into the slot on the axel side of the adjustment screw. Twist off the cap on the back side then back the screw out from the inside using the flathead screw driver. Don't force it. Use a bit of penetrating oil and let it sit over night. I removed a pair from a 40 year old frame with just a little coaxing. Good luck. Oh, replacements are available from old school bike shops.
11-11-10, 05:56 AM
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you should use a small standsrd screwdriver to insert into the slot on the axel side of the adjustment screw. Twist off the cap on the back side then back the screw out from the inside using the flathead screw driver. Don't force it. Use a bit of penetrating oil and let it sit over night. I removed a pair from a 40 year old frame with just a little coaxing. Good luck. Oh, replacements are available from old school bike shops.
Thank you, everyone, for your help on this little "project" =D
-rob
