mattm

Thinking of a more aero 2017.

Besides body position - which is generally free to work on, I'm wondering about other parts of the bike.

So I'm in the market for new handlebars, wondering if it's worth the $$ to get "aero" bars if the cables will be out in the wind anyway? (Tarmac SL4 - internal cable routing, but not Vias-like full internal routing).

And on that note, anyone have tips for tidying up cables that come out of the handlebar?

As for aero helmet, thinking of this one: Bontrager Ballista Road Helmet | Trek Bikes

aaronmcd

Wait some bikes have exposed cables?

I actually don't like these internal cables though, cuz it makes me lazy about replacing cables and housing. Cables require fishing through a frame with magnets, and housing requires rewrapping old bar tape cuz I didn't buy new tape.

Helmets are an expendable which is why I don't splurge on anything over 50 bucks. When I can buy aero for 50 bucks I will.

furiousferret

This is what convinced me to get aero bars:
On Bicycles, and.... what else is there?: Cervelo S5 and the aero road bars

dz_nuzz

Aero bars (Road aero bars) have another big benefit: They let you do IAB extremely comfortably. `

As for cables: My thinking is that it is better to cluster as many cables together as possible and reduce length as much as is reasonable. Honestly Di2 is also nice for this reason. I find using small zip ties and those jagwire housing-sheaths are great. They reduce the amount that cables move and reduce tapping.

Other thoughts: DC Rainmaker did a test with different computer mounts and their aero penalties. Common sense holds true and having a mount that puts your computer in-line with the stem is best. (K-Edge, Barfly Good. Garmin Bad)

Wylde06

May completely placebo, but I had a string of awesome rides immediately after getting one of these helmets...including 2nd out of a 2 man break in a club race.


That was enough to get me to wear it all the time!

dz_nuzz

Aero helmets make you think more aero as well, so there is that.

topflightpro

If you use cable liner when replacing cables, it makes it much easier and no magnets are required. Simply thread the liner over the cable before removing it from the frame, then leave the liner in place when pulling out the cable, then insert new cable and remove cable liner.

I bought 30m of cable liner for about $10. I think it came from Treefort Bikes.

And Mattm, I am considering doing the same thing. I'm looking at the Zipp or Specialized aero handlebars because I like the drop/reach they offer. And I am probably going to go with a Kask Protone because I can get a good deal on them, they look pretty good, and are rather comfortable. I may even go with a more aero frame, but that is mostly because I like the paint job on the new Allez Sprints.

jdms mvp

get some segmented cables that you can do tighter bends, that will get some of the housings out of the win. And the aero bars with cables out of the wind also will give you the wing-tops profile, which might help.

TMonk

I bought an Sworks Evade on ebay a while bike, and I like it. Not sure if it makes me ride faster, but it def. makes me want to . I use it for all of my interval sessions on Fiesta Island too.

Ygduf

I hate the ballista helmet I have. You want to try it? I don't like the straps at all.

Best way to tidy up cables is to get the sram wireless.

For the bars, I think bontrager makes an aluminum version, or there's the specialized or zipp carbons. The Bontrager alu is like $70, the others a couple hundred. If you stay with cabled brifters the wing bars force the cables through them, so that tidies it up from the front nicely.

TheKillerPenguin

Get a Giro Air Attack and you too can look like Toadstool. One of us! One of us!

furiousferret

I have the Bontrager aluminum bars, they're good bars. Besides price, the one thing that kept me from going with the other aero bars is the fit. For example, the 3T Aero bars add about 1.3 cm to the reach and 2 cm to the drop compared to my old bars, and my fit was so good I didn't want to risk it.

I really want the SRAM eTap, but didn't want 1st gen. Groupsets are too important to be a beta tester.

PepeM

Id the cable routing as bad as I've read it is?

hack

I have an evade and like everything about it other than having nowhere to put my sunglasses.


I'm drifting further away from aero this year by building up a Tarmac and putting the Venge in the backseat. I'll ride the Tarmac through the winter and make a call on which will get used next year. Will also look to go etap; a few teammates have it and love it.


Aero bars ... I've always been hesitant to go with the aero bars because I'm not sure how to feel about carbon bars. The Bontrager alloy ones were interesting, but the set on the bike now are just fine.

topflightpro

I am waiting for eTap to be available for employee purchase. Once it is, then I plan to get it, and make the move to 11-speed.

hack

I'm dreading the merge from 10 to 11s. So many cassettes to get rid of, need a couple new cassette bodies, etc.

Wylde06

I am thinking about the 3T aero bars (aeronova specifically). I want to try and get my hands on a set first before buying to see how drastic the claimed extended reach is. I don't really the cannondale bars that came on my caad12 and now is when I would want to switch them out

dz_nuzz

I used to have them, they definitely stretch you out another 1-2cm

furiousferret

The plastic cable sheath is about halfway dug into the bar at the exit point after about a year; so yeah, its not great but not something I lose sleep over. I should probably get it swapped out soon though!

Wylde06

I can go another 1cm out at least and still be comfortable. I had a 110 stem on my six13 and never changed out the 100 on my caad12...will have to do some more searching online, or hope to find someone local that has them..

Doge

Just some thoughts.
-ENVE SES aero have a bit better cable exit. Ritchey Solo Stream one piece and feel great.
-Power Cordz brake cables and those little alloy segments are smaller and more bendable / route-able than braided cable - and lighter too.
-Shave your arms/ride with sleeves
-Reduce tape size and coverage - if using big tape wrap to be more aero.
-Move hoods inline with bars (normally they are - just mentioning)
-Flaten aero bar tops.
-Narrower bars
-Optimize hands on hoods for forearms parallel to ground. So raising bars - maybe.
-Open up brakes to allow more air through - straight pass through forks.
-Wider gapes are better than small gaps.
-We've discussed this but elbows in seem to roll shoulders better. The wind tunnel guys say does not matter. The 2016 UCI ITT guys seemed to have elbows in.
-Put computer in front of stem/bars - not on top.
-Mount water bottle on seat tube - if using one.
-Wheels - internal spoke nipples, J-Bend on inside of front hub, fewer spokes, thinner spokes, radial spokes, then all the rim stuff you read about. Maybe thinner 24s/23s. Trade-off I know.
-More aero skewers or TT skewers.
-Glue number

mattm

No I mean internally routed cables, but exposed between the handlebars & the frame.

mattm

If you ever want to get ride of that horrible Venge you have, let me know!

hack

will do ... a 58 might be an odd look for you though

scheibo

Actually, I find the exact opposite - because more of the bar is untaped and exposed i end up sliding around like crazy on them (sweat and sunscreen are pretty slippery) compared to traditional bars. I believe @Doge used like spray on glue to help make this less of an issue, but it's not something I'm really going to do before all of my rides.