SONofADAM

G'day. Got a tricycle yesterday that has an very old Archer 3 speed. It seized up ! Can't pedal at all. I do not yet know the technical terms for the components, so I will do my best to explain. Also seems I'm not able to upload pics, as I am a new member....The chain-link system, well the part with the pin is loose. It says "94-5" on it...is that perhaps a model #?

I suppose the easiest thing to do is to replace the entire hub. So, any thoughts, based on that little and vague info, that would help you point me towards the correct replacement part....I'll happily supply any other info.

thanks for any help, I am grateful !

Iride01 

Replacement might get more pricey than the tricycle is worth. Are you good with DIY and small parts?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/internal-gears.html

Andrew R Stewart 

Having a specific SA hub model would help. Does the hub also include a coaster brake, a light generator, a drum brake? Usually there's a model and date of manufacturing on the hub shell, between the flanges.

Have you tried to add oil to the hub? Is the oil hole still in the hub shell? SA AWs are pretty reliable with rarely a broken part. But they can be sensitive to rust and adjustment. Lastly have you removed the chain yet?

Perhaps the best first stop to understanding the SA AW hub is Internal-Gear Hubs (sheldonbrown.com) Andy

Dan Burkhart 

The 94-5 is year and month of manufacture. The model should be etched prominently somewhere on the shell. Might have to clean off some crud to find it.

Gresp15C

I've resurrected a number of old SA hubs. My advice is to assume that it can be revived, but to proceed slowly and read as many references as possible. I've watched a number of Dan Burkhart's videos, read through the material at the Sheldon Brown site, and printed out the excerpts from the Sutherland manuals that are reproduced with permission at the Sheldon Brown site.

I had a coaster brake model that would seize up on hard braking, and I think I finally concluded that I was not assembling it correctly. However, loosening the axle nuts un-seized it, so that's worth trying if you haven't already.

tcs

If it's on a tricycle as the OP says, built May 1994, then it's most likely an AWC with a transfer sprocket screwed onto the RH flange.

Schematic:
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co.../pic-156.1.jpg




First step: unscrew the RH cone, pull the driver assembly and check on the health of the actuator plate.



Sturmey of course went to NGLI #00 grease lubrication in 1984 and discontinued the oil port at that time. Unlikely then that this 1994 hub has an oil port.

Andrew R Stewart 

"Sturmey of course went to NGLI #00 grease lubrication in 1984 and discontinued the oil port at that time. Unlikely then that this 1994 hub has an oil port. " tcs

I was thinking this hub was really old and not made by the current version of the Sturmey Archer company. The 94-5 date code could have been miss read and the age reference made me think of the English made stuff. Andy

SONofADAM

That's the closest i've seen to what i have !

SONofADAM

HELLO ALL!! Thank you so much for all your replies. I think I'm getting close to 10 posts and then i can post pics? (at least i keep getting told i need 10 posts before i can put up pics...?) regardless....i may have found a local repair shop willing to take a look. if not, i'll be moving forward with attempting to repair it myself. The resources you guys provided in this thread appear to be just what i need. i have the hub off the trike and just waiting to be fixed. once i heard back from the repair shop, i'll see about fixing it myself, and then beyond that, hopefully being able to locate the proper replacement. price isn't too much of an issue, this is worth it to me.

THANK YOU AGAIN!! super grateful.

tcs

Yeah, the one I showed has a fancier hubshell, but is the same inside. Complete internal mechanisms are available, and that might be less expensive than trouble shoot, individual replacement parts (every last one is available!) and repair.

These hubs are robust. This one just needed new R springs, (lots of) cleaning and lubrication ( <-- important!) to return to use!