Fork Thread tool- questions
#1
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Fork Thread tool- questions
Our Bike Coop is thinking about a fork threading tool, but cost and longevity could be an issue.
- How long(times) does the die/cutter last?
- Should this tool be limited to shop mechanics only? or could the average member with good mechanic knowledge be allowed to use it too?
Definately a tool that would be handy.
- How long(times) does the die/cutter last?
- Should this tool be limited to shop mechanics only? or could the average member with good mechanic knowledge be allowed to use it too?
Definately a tool that would be handy.
#2
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The non-cycling world calls this tool a die, except that its a bit larger than the average.
The cutters on these are generally made out of high speed steel (HSS is what you see on the retail box). In all honesty it should last you several years, depending on usage of course. The resulting thread and life of the tool will be a lot better if you use a good lubricant, my favorite is called tap magic. Liberally apply this to your area.
Somebody with good mechanical knowledge can use this. You might try having people wanting to use it run a normal sized die over some cheap steel first to develop the "feel" for the tool, as this is paramount. It's crucial that the die start on the fork straight, that is, the face perpendicular to the tube. Eyeballing this is usually good enough. The other important aspect of proper use is feeling excess resistance. Being a larger cutting tool, you'll feel a lot of resistance by cutting here. However, you'll inevitably find places where it feels a little stiffer than others. This is usually because of chips being caught in the teeth, and is remedied by backing the tool out 1/4 of a turn. In fact, when I use these, I back the tool off a little after every full revolution.
The cutters on these are generally made out of high speed steel (HSS is what you see on the retail box). In all honesty it should last you several years, depending on usage of course. The resulting thread and life of the tool will be a lot better if you use a good lubricant, my favorite is called tap magic. Liberally apply this to your area.
Somebody with good mechanical knowledge can use this. You might try having people wanting to use it run a normal sized die over some cheap steel first to develop the "feel" for the tool, as this is paramount. It's crucial that the die start on the fork straight, that is, the face perpendicular to the tube. Eyeballing this is usually good enough. The other important aspect of proper use is feeling excess resistance. Being a larger cutting tool, you'll feel a lot of resistance by cutting here. However, you'll inevitably find places where it feels a little stiffer than others. This is usually because of chips being caught in the teeth, and is remedied by backing the tool out 1/4 of a turn. In fact, when I use these, I back the tool off a little after every full revolution.
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#3
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On the one hand, I'd say don't let anyone but the shop mechanics use it, because some will botch the fork, and some will botch the die.
On the other hand, the whole point of a coop is to let people do their own work as much as possible. Some may know how to use it, and some may be mechanically inclined enough that they can learn easily enough. All of us learned at some point.
So I can't decide, but I do think it's a good tool to invest in.
Be sure to stock up on cutting oil, and use it liberally.
On the other hand, the whole point of a coop is to let people do their own work as much as possible. Some may know how to use it, and some may be mechanically inclined enough that they can learn easily enough. All of us learned at some point.
So I can't decide, but I do think it's a good tool to invest in.
Be sure to stock up on cutting oil, and use it liberally.
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I think in a Co-op shop the majority of use will be to chase existing threads or to extend already threaded forks. With both of these tasks, it is more difficult to ruin a fork than to start completely new threads. In our shop it would probably fall on the shop mech to do this work because of the cost of the tool.
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#8
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your are talking about a chromeplated for yes? the chromeplating is what dulls the die correct?
I do think the use use of the tool should be limited to regular mechanics or to those that show real aptitude. one person who does lube or use this right can ruin it.
having never been to a coop is ther somekind of 'kitty' that members put money into for shop supplies and tools?
I do think the use use of the tool should be limited to regular mechanics or to those that show real aptitude. one person who does lube or use this right can ruin it.
having never been to a coop is ther somekind of 'kitty' that members put money into for shop supplies and tools?
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#9
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Thanks for all the great info.
Bianchigirl, The one in Boise is only a few years old. Income comes from yearly membership fees, bike and part sales and grants. The income pays the rent, utilities, tools, some minor parts, etc.... There are a couple of paid positions too. Bikes are always free to kids and refugees.
boisebicycleproject.org
Bianchigirl, The one in Boise is only a few years old. Income comes from yearly membership fees, bike and part sales and grants. The income pays the rent, utilities, tools, some minor parts, etc.... There are a couple of paid positions too. Bikes are always free to kids and refugees.
boisebicycleproject.org
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Most bike shops won't try to thread a threadless steerer or start threads on a threaded steerer that was shortened below the original threads. They will, with care, extend existing threads but that's all. And yes, chrome plating will indeed dull a die very quickly.
#11
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It doesn't "ruin" the die, but because the chrome is much harder than the steel, it dulls the die more quickly than would otherwise happen. Dies can be resharpened, but it is not cheap (usually cheaper than a new die, though) and each sharpening removes material from the die so ultimately dies have a finite lifespan measured in the number of sharpenings they can survive.
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 01-07-10 at 07:48 PM.
#12
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Of course, you could always just remove the chrome with a wire wheel right?
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I'm not familiar with a dedicated fork threading tool but with a normal die it's all too easy to start the die cross threaded when chasing threads and make a mess of things. I vote for experienced use of that tool.
We're trying to get a coop like yours going here in Nampa! Boise is pretty inspiring.
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We're trying to get a coop like yours going here in Nampa! Boise is pretty inspiring.
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I have never threaded forks but I have cut many threads for Schedule 40 and Schedule 80 pipe black iron as well as galvanized pipe . We used a manual ratcheting cutting head as well as motorized cutters. Once the dies go dull it will tear the metal instead of cut. The same if not enough lube is used, it will get hot and gall.
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