Got a Colnago Super
#26
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Thread Starter
I had a look at where the crank meets the spider/hub on the drive side, and thankfully it looks nice and free of cracks. I had seen in the "...wrenching on" thread AdventureManCo the Huffmeister's posting he had that issue recently and thought I should take a look at mine. I didn't realize that it was such a known issue with these. I was looking at this thread..
No cracks thankfully
I went a little extra maybe... when I worked as a machinist, I was taught that any sharp edges were weak points so I brought the radios down into the transition to the chamfer. Looking at the pic now, I maybe should have finished with 400 grit. I used needle files and then rolled up 120 grit, then 220 grit. The macro lens on my phone really shows the imperfections more clearly than they are to my eyes. I can see the chatter marks from the ball mill operation.
I tried to relieve the sharp edges/stress risers by smoothing it all out.
No cracks thankfully
I went a little extra maybe... when I worked as a machinist, I was taught that any sharp edges were weak points so I brought the radios down into the transition to the chamfer. Looking at the pic now, I maybe should have finished with 400 grit. I used needle files and then rolled up 120 grit, then 220 grit. The macro lens on my phone really shows the imperfections more clearly than they are to my eyes. I can see the chatter marks from the ball mill operation.
I tried to relieve the sharp edges/stress risers by smoothing it all out.
#27
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I found a pretty good match for repairing this Blue at a well stocked fingernail polish dispensing display.
would work for the top of the seat lug and probably elsewhere.
would work for the top of the seat lug and probably elsewhere.
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#28
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I had a go at it, tried it out just a little as it is a bit puddle-y outside, and it helped some for sure. There was a bit of glazing, hard spots, even some aluminum embedded in the pads. I picked out the shards, and matching the angle took off enough to smooth past the visible glazing. The difference is ok it seems, a bit more grip. Maybe I will put the Campagnolo pads in a drawer and take BradL's advice with the Kool Stop pads. I'd read that people were all about having the Campagnolo pads and how they are hard to come by. I do plan on riding this bike.
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There are new production Campagnolo pads. $40. For a set of four plus ship.
#30
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Ha, interesting The pics of the storefront do look a bit "blighted" as the article puts it, with the bottom of the "S" broken off and stains running down. Certainly they could have put the sticker on the bike more evenly. I'm gonna keep it though as part of the bike's history.
#31
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Thread Starter
It's no wonder they were glazed, the wheels when I got them were caked with adhesive from the tires being sloppily put on, and the black from the pads all smeared together with it all over. I went at them with lacquer thinner and elbow grease and got them a lot cleaner.
#32
Newbie
I broke my tibia 3/4in from the end of the bone when I was 14, snapped like a 4x4 when my foot slipped off the pedal, rolled my ankle and snapped, sounded like a gunshot.
On a Sunday, drunk Dr. shows up and doesn't set it, just puts on a cast.
Healed very crooked so can't do clipless, which is fine, can't stand clipless on any C+V.
Those are really long ones but work just fine.
On a Sunday, drunk Dr. shows up and doesn't set it, just puts on a cast.
Healed very crooked so can't do clipless, which is fine, can't stand clipless on any C+V.
Those are really long ones but work just fine.
I have trouble with cleats etc. these days as my feet are not flat and tend to twist when riding. When I was racing was not aware of the issue and used to get massive cramps in the legs generally at 2 AM in the morning, you could feel the cramps for days after.
I now use Shimano PD-T100's with toe clips and straps. My feet can move around in them, on the flat plastic platform, and I still get most of the benefits of toe clips.
Been a long term buyer of PD-T100's over the years and always have a spare set on hand. Toe strap rub seems to be minimal for some reason with these pedals as an added bonus.
MKS GR-9's can do a similar job after some modification with a hacksaw to fit normal toe clips but I find the strap rub is a problem again with the MKS.
Great to hear that your badly set bone issue has not stopped you from cycling.
Last edited by 1970bikes; 01-20-24 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Several Errors
#33
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Next weekend is supposed to be better weather here, and I'll see how it goes with these.
It's no wonder they were glazed, the wheels when I got them were caked with adhesive from the tires being sloppily put on, and the black from the pads all smeared together with it all over. I went at them with lacquer thinner and elbow grease and got them a lot cleaner.
It's no wonder they were glazed, the wheels when I got them were caked with adhesive from the tires being sloppily put on, and the black from the pads all smeared together with it all over. I went at them with lacquer thinner and elbow grease and got them a lot cleaner.
Assuming you did clean and grease the cables in the process.
#34
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Thread Starter
Note how @merziac routed his straps- he does have wide feet but, the way you have them routed may or may not be the easiest to engage. You may or may not Need the twist.
great color, we called it Electric Blue, I first saw it in early 1973 on a 1971 Colnago. I have one but a 1973.
I fully understand the urgency of wanting to get it on the road. Good you repacked the BB. The spacer ring that was probably used under the fixed cup… maybe the BB was aggressively faced? Be sure to check the chainline, spindle overall length and drive side crank year.
rebuilding the calipers completely I think is a good near course Idea. Consider trimming the front brake cable housing if it is long enough, looks a bit beat near the lever.
get the saddle adjusted and review the reach to the bars.
great color, we called it Electric Blue, I first saw it in early 1973 on a 1971 Colnago. I have one but a 1973.
I fully understand the urgency of wanting to get it on the road. Good you repacked the BB. The spacer ring that was probably used under the fixed cup… maybe the BB was aggressively faced? Be sure to check the chainline, spindle overall length and drive side crank year.
rebuilding the calipers completely I think is a good near course Idea. Consider trimming the front brake cable housing if it is long enough, looks a bit beat near the lever.
get the saddle adjusted and review the reach to the bars.
I did think the spacer was kind of weird. It was indeed on the fixed cup side. I thought maybe it had to do with the change in the lip on the front derailleur, like the bottom bracket was cut for the early derailleur/axle, but they were rolling out with the longer axle. It does have the longer axle and lipped derailleur and pegged chain ring. But given the 78 stamp on the nds crank, they still had some stuff from earlier? Idk.. The crank side is dated 79. I put the spacer back in where I found it. I don't mess with too many bottom brackets so I figured that would be safest.
#35
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Wow, really sorry to hear about your accident and bad medical treatment.
I have trouble with cleats etc. these days as my feet are not flat and tend to twist when riding. When I was racing was not aware of the issue and used to get massive cramps in the legs generally at 2 AM in the morning, you could feel the cramps for days after.
I now use Shimano PD-T100's with toe clips and straps. My feet can move around in them, on the flat plastic platform, and I still get most of the benefits of toe clips.
Been a long term buyer of PD-T100's over the years and always have a spare set on hand. Toe strap rub seems to be minimal for some reason with these pedals as an added bonus.
MKS GR-9's can do a similar job after some modification with a hacksaw to fit normal toe clips but I find the strap rub is a problem again with the MKS.
Great to hear that your badly set bone issue has not stopped you from cycling.
I have trouble with cleats etc. these days as my feet are not flat and tend to twist when riding. When I was racing was not aware of the issue and used to get massive cramps in the legs generally at 2 AM in the morning, you could feel the cramps for days after.
I now use Shimano PD-T100's with toe clips and straps. My feet can move around in them, on the flat plastic platform, and I still get most of the benefits of toe clips.
Been a long term buyer of PD-T100's over the years and always have a spare set on hand. Toe strap rub seems to be minimal for some reason with these pedals as an added bonus.
MKS GR-9's can do a similar job after some modification with a hacksaw to fit normal toe clips but I find the strap rub is a problem again with the MKS.
Great to hear that your badly set bone issue has not stopped you from cycling.
The story is longer and sadder as it has come back to bite me now that I'm going down the backside, it will become much more challenging from here on out.
#36
Newbie
I was looking for a Colnago Super with Campagnolo Record at least groupset, and came upon it on ebay a few days before Christmas. I was taken by the dark non-metallic Nuovo Blue — I have a thing for that color apparently as one of my long term projects is an Adriatic Blue 1972 Porsche 914. With the original paint, and it generally needing love, it seemed like my kind of bike. It also was not priced at over $1500 which was my budget.
With Campagnolo Record hubs, brakes, pulls, seatpost, pedals, and front and rear deraillurs, and what seems like correct/original Fiamme tubular wheels (with orange Michelin Club 22 x 700's) it was exactly what I was looking for. Wearing a well-worn Brooks Professional saddle, and dirty yellow Cinelli cork bar tape, it was pretty cruddy looking, chipped paint around the rear dropouts and top of the seat post, and a few random chips here and there, I kind of went back and forth whether it could be made presentable while I waited eagerly through the holidays for it to arrive.
Colnago Super ebay pic 1
With Campagnolo Record hubs, brakes, pulls, seatpost, pedals, and front and rear deraillurs, and what seems like correct/original Fiamme tubular wheels (with orange Michelin Club 22 x 700's) it was exactly what I was looking for. Wearing a well-worn Brooks Professional saddle, and dirty yellow Cinelli cork bar tape, it was pretty cruddy looking, chipped paint around the rear dropouts and top of the seat post, and a few random chips here and there, I kind of went back and forth whether it could be made presentable while I waited eagerly through the holidays for it to arrive.
Colnago Super ebay pic 1
One thing that I noticed, after seeing seeing several U.S. Colnago Super's listed on the forum. Pantograph parts do not seem all that common.
Here in Australia, if you were rich enough to buy a Colnago, you always seem to get it with most components pantographed. That is my experience anyway as a 'interested spectator' and non - Colnago owner.
#37
Newbie
Thread Starter
Note how @merziac routed his straps- he does have wide feet but, the way you have them routed may or may not be the easiest to engage. You may or may not Need the twist.
great color, we called it Electric Blue, I first saw it in early 1973 on a 1971 Colnago. I have one but a 1973.
I fully understand the urgency of wanting to get it on the road. Good you repacked the BB. The spacer ring that was probably used under the fixed cup… maybe the BB was aggressively faced? Be sure to check the chainline, spindle overall length and drive side crank year.
rebuilding the calipers completely I think is a good near course Idea. Consider trimming the front brake cable housing if it is long enough, looks a bit beat near the lever.
get the saddle adjusted and review the reach to the bars.
great color, we called it Electric Blue, I first saw it in early 1973 on a 1971 Colnago. I have one but a 1973.
I fully understand the urgency of wanting to get it on the road. Good you repacked the BB. The spacer ring that was probably used under the fixed cup… maybe the BB was aggressively faced? Be sure to check the chainline, spindle overall length and drive side crank year.
rebuilding the calipers completely I think is a good near course Idea. Consider trimming the front brake cable housing if it is long enough, looks a bit beat near the lever.
get the saddle adjusted and review the reach to the bars.
#38
Newbie
Thread Starter
Yet another really nice looking bike. Always fun getting a new toy and discovering that it was better than you expected.
One thing that I noticed, after seeing seeing several U.S. Colnago Super's listed on the forum. Pantograph parts do not seem all that common.
Here in Australia, if you were rich enough to buy a Colnago, you always seem to get it with most components pantographed. That is my experience anyway as a 'interested spectator' and non - Colnago owner.
One thing that I noticed, after seeing seeing several U.S. Colnago Super's listed on the forum. Pantograph parts do not seem all that common.
Here in Australia, if you were rich enough to buy a Colnago, you always seem to get it with most components pantographed. That is my experience anyway as a 'interested spectator' and non - Colnago owner.
Overall I was very happy with it's condition when I got it. Once I went through it, got it together and went for a ride, you're not looking at everything with a macro lens and all the chips and stuff don't seem so terrible. I do think some spot repair is in its future though..
Here's a shot of the first ride.
My 1981 Colnago Super that I'm working on.
#39
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Very nice, and in my favorite Colnago color. Here is mine, which according to the research I have seen, is a 1981 Super, same color as yours. Great bike!
#40
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Thread Starter
Note how @merziac routed his straps- he does have wide feet but, the way you have them routed may or may not be the easiest to engage. You may or may not Need the twist.
get the saddle adjusted and review the reach to the bars.
get the saddle adjusted and review the reach to the bars.
#41
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Thread Starter
Yours is very very nice lol. All super record stuff, and the real chrome chain stay and dropouts. Yours is definitely later [than mine] with the sloped fork crown and the flat seat stay tops — not to say I doubt it's an '81. I definitely see some varying info on when changes happened.
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Hey wildOG. I live in San Clemente, let's go for a ride some time. I'm in Laguna on Sunset Ridge two or three times a year. I always bring one of my bikes and head north on PCH to Newport Coast up the hill to San Joaquin down to Margarite, back to PCH through Corona Del Mar and home.
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#43
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All Record and Nuovo Record makes your bike look classic and timeless. No drillium, and none of the pantograph silliness that so detracts from later examples, imho. Just basic, classic, all-Campy road-racing bike from before the name was well-known here.
Nice cleanup - looks great. Congratulations!
Nice cleanup - looks great. Congratulations!
#44
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I had a look at where the crank meets the spider/hub on the drive side, and thankfully it looks nice and free of cracks. I had seen in the "...wrenching on" thread AdventureManCo the Huffmeister's posting he had that issue recently and thought I should take a look at mine. I didn't realize that it was such a known issue with these. I was looking at this thread..
No cracks thankfully
I went a little extra maybe... when I worked as a machinist, I was taught that any sharp edges were weak points so I brought the radios down into the transition to the chamfer. Looking at the pic now, I maybe should have finished with 400 grit. I used needle files and then rolled up 120 grit, then 220 grit. The macro lens on my phone really shows the imperfections more clearly than they are to my eyes. I can see the chatter marks from the ball mill operation.
I tried to relieve the sharp edges/stress risers by smoothing it all out.
No cracks thankfully
I went a little extra maybe... when I worked as a machinist, I was taught that any sharp edges were weak points so I brought the radios down into the transition to the chamfer. Looking at the pic now, I maybe should have finished with 400 grit. I used needle files and then rolled up 120 grit, then 220 grit. The macro lens on my phone really shows the imperfections more clearly than they are to my eyes. I can see the chatter marks from the ball mill operation.
I tried to relieve the sharp edges/stress risers by smoothing it all out.
__________________
There were 135 Confentes, but only one...Huffente!
There were 135 Confentes, but only one...Huffente!
#45
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Thread Starter
Hey wildOG. I live in San Clemente, let's go for a ride some time. I'm in Laguna on Sunset Ridge two or three times a year. I always bring one of my bikes and head north on PCH to Newport Coast up the hill to San Joaquin down to Margarite, back to PCH through Corona Del Mar and home.
It rates the path as "expert" but then oddly says "all skill levels" — I'm not sure how those 2 ratings coexist in the same route. I'm thinking once I have the bike more dialed in, I will give it a go and see if I'm expert enough or if it will kill me lol. It would be cool, knowing that I can do it to meet up and give it a go as a group.
https://www.komoot.com/tour/14192914...zF0dqrd1o4ifQ8
#46
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Another thing we don't often talk about is greasing the straps with some leather treatment, it keeps them good longer and makes it easier to get them threaded through the pedal without rasping them very much.
#47
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I've seen it called that, but also Nuovo Blue? I thought maybe one was what they called it in Italy vs a common name. I have seen another blue they had at the same time that is a metallic color, maybe that one is Nuovo blue? I prefer the non-metallic darker blue. I feel like that is the quintessential Colnago color, followed by Saronni Red.
I did think the spacer was kind of weird. It was indeed on the fixed cup side. I thought maybe it had to do with the change in the lip on the front derailleur, like the bottom bracket was cut for the early derailleur/axle, but they were rolling out with the longer axle. It does have the longer axle and lipped derailleur and pegged chain ring. But given the 78 stamp on the nds crank, they still had some stuff from earlier? Idk.. The crank side is dated 79. I put the spacer back in where I found it. I don't mess with too many bottom brackets so I figured that would be safest.
I did think the spacer was kind of weird. It was indeed on the fixed cup side. I thought maybe it had to do with the change in the lip on the front derailleur, like the bottom bracket was cut for the early derailleur/axle, but they were rolling out with the longer axle. It does have the longer axle and lipped derailleur and pegged chain ring. But given the 78 stamp on the nds crank, they still had some stuff from earlier? Idk.. The crank side is dated 79. I put the spacer back in where I found it. I don't mess with too many bottom brackets so I figured that would be safest.
I don’t like the spacer being split, but keep a watch on it, might be OK. I think the metallic medium blue was Nuovo Blue, but often Colnago surprised importers with what they received. I have a ‘72 super that is near school bus yellow, better I think but I have never seen another.
#48
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Good point about the dating, I think these can be kind of difficult to pin down during those years. I bought the frame from a guy who had gotten it from the original owner, who said he bought it new in 1982. I was actually looking for a Superissimo from this era. I actually had one I bought new in 1983, and it was this exact color with chromed lugs. I don't think Supers had chromed lugs (I am sure there are exceptions), but the Superissimo I had did. The research I found said:1981
- Chain stay bridge is spool shape (no longer tube)
- Chain stays stamped COLNAGO on sides, long stiffening flutes inner-side of chain stays and right chain stay chromed
- Derailleur cable routing on underside of bottom bracket
1982
- Superissimo model introduced with chrome head lugs and new decals
- New decals introduced with Worlds stripes at one end of white panel and club at other end of panel
Since this had all the features for 1981, but not the new decals with the white background (my old Superissimo had those), I am calling it a 1981. But it's possible that it is actually an early 82, before they changed decals(?).
One other topic, relative to fork crown, this one is sloped and the Panto
has a "C" with the clover inside the letter. I haven't seen too many like that - what does yours look like?
- Chain stay bridge is spool shape (no longer tube)
- Chain stays stamped COLNAGO on sides, long stiffening flutes inner-side of chain stays and right chain stay chromed
- Derailleur cable routing on underside of bottom bracket
1982
- Superissimo model introduced with chrome head lugs and new decals
- New decals introduced with Worlds stripes at one end of white panel and club at other end of panel
Since this had all the features for 1981, but not the new decals with the white background (my old Superissimo had those), I am calling it a 1981. But it's possible that it is actually an early 82, before they changed decals(?).
One other topic, relative to fork crown, this one is sloped and the Panto
has a "C" with the clover inside the letter. I haven't seen too many like that - what does yours look like?
#49
Newbie
Thread Starter
‘non drive side arm - no changes. Drive side arm, 79 places it post CPSC, it uses a longer spindle, Campagnolo did not mark them well actually. 115 +/- is the length for this crank version, prior was 112-113mm overall. There were adjustments to achieve the extra gap between the ring and the backside of the arm to provide room for the “safety” lip.
I don’t like the spacer being split, but keep a watch on it, might be OK. I think the metallic medium blue was Nuovo Blue, but often Colnago surprised importers with what they received. I have a ‘72 super that is near school bus yellow, better I think but I have never seen another.
I don’t like the spacer being split, but keep a watch on it, might be OK. I think the metallic medium blue was Nuovo Blue, but often Colnago surprised importers with what they received. I have a ‘72 super that is near school bus yellow, better I think but I have never seen another.
The yellow super sounds interesting. I do like to see the less common colors. Check out this one, maybe similar to yours, very early, a '68. https://steel-vintage.com/products/c...ke-1968-detail
#50
Newbie
Thread Starter
Good point about the dating, I think these can be kind of difficult to pin down during those years. I bought the frame from a guy who had gotten it from the original owner, who said he bought it new in 1982. I was actually looking for a Superissimo from this era. I actually had one I bought new in 1983, and it was this exact color with chromed lugs. I don't think Supers had chromed lugs (I am sure there are exceptions), but the Superissimo I had did. The research I found said:1981
- Chain stay bridge is spool shape (no longer tube)
- Chain stays stamped COLNAGO on sides, long stiffening flutes inner-side of chain stays and right chain stay chromed
- Derailleur cable routing on underside of bottom bracket
1982
- Superissimo model introduced with chrome head lugs and new decals
- New decals introduced with Worlds stripes at one end of white panel and club at other end of panel
Since this had all the features for 1981, but not the new decals with the white background (my old Superissimo had those), I am calling it a 1981. But it's possible that it is actually an early 82, before they changed decals(?).
One other topic, relative to fork crown, this one is sloped and the Panto
has a "C" with the clover inside the letter. I haven't seen too many like that - what does yours look like?
- Chain stay bridge is spool shape (no longer tube)
- Chain stays stamped COLNAGO on sides, long stiffening flutes inner-side of chain stays and right chain stay chromed
- Derailleur cable routing on underside of bottom bracket
1982
- Superissimo model introduced with chrome head lugs and new decals
- New decals introduced with Worlds stripes at one end of white panel and club at other end of panel
Since this had all the features for 1981, but not the new decals with the white background (my old Superissimo had those), I am calling it a 1981. But it's possible that it is actually an early 82, before they changed decals(?).
One other topic, relative to fork crown, this one is sloped and the Panto
has a "C" with the clover inside the letter. I haven't seen too many like that - what does yours look like?
The superissimo how I understand it, is basically a Super with chrome headset lugs, but it's still a Super. Like a Superissimo is a Super but not all Supers are Superissimos. Non-Superissimo Supers were definitely made in '82 and after. I've read that a dealer could get any combination of chrome on the chain stays, dropouts, and head lugs before and after the Superissimo was introduced.
I have thought about researching to develop a maybe more accurate timeline of when features were introduced. Like when did the Porta Catena/chain holder get dropped, when did front derailleurs get a brazing vs using a clamp?
I've read that the fork crown, you had an option of flat or sloped as late as '91. Like this '82 has a flat crown fork, flat seat stays, and a front derailleur brazing. Nevermind the decals with anything on Classic Steel Bikes site — I think they put the new decal on everything that goes through there.
https://www.classicsteelbikes.com/pr...-saronni-1982/
The fork on mine is the same as that one. Despite the fuzzy timeline on fork crowns, the sloped one is definitely later and I would say started to transition around '82. Of course all my observations are internet-based and sort of fuzzy because of that. I wonder if yours has a brazing for the front derailleur? — hard to see in the pic.
The fork on mine
I think people also may be confusing date of manufacture vs model year? I'm not positive if there is really such a differentiation in Colnagos back then, but I know for cars of that era, production for the new model year would start in August of the year before.