Deontologist

I finally got around to tearing down the rear wheel of a BSO. I, as well as the LBS, thought that the axle had simply broke in half. The symptoms were a sudden loss of control of the bike along with a very wobbly rear wheel. The axle, before I took it out the rear hub, also had significant amounts of play; I could easily wiggle it up and down while it was still locked in the hub.

When I took out the axle however it came out in one piece and it also came out perfectly straight. However, something that was threaded on the axle was chipped and cracked. Could this have caused the sudden onset of instability? I'm mainly curious for intellectual purposes.

JohnDThompson 

I see a broken cone and a stripped axle.

CliffordK

The axle isn't "stripped". It is a wear mark from the axle rubbing on the inside of the cup/race.

What did the bearings look like when they came out?

I'm guessing that the bad side was on the right side of the wheel. Did you take off the freewheel yet?

With that much damage, it is likely that the right bearing race is also toast, in which case the whole hub is generally toast. You can still rebuild the wheel, but it is a lot of work.

Deontologist

I actually pulled an axle from another rear wheel that was relatively functional to replace the pictured broken axle. The replacement axle has a wavy cone; the cone on one side isn't flat anymore and doesn't push up against the bearings evenly. As a result I can't really tighten down on the locknut to preload the bearings. Gotta love Wal-Mart bike axles.

Nonetheless the bike is still rideable. Maybe not for long but still do-able.

The bad side was on the drive-side of the wheel. No I haven't taken off the freewheel yet. I still have yet to figure out how; I only know how to take off cassettes. I have the Park Tool FR-5 and from what I understand I just stick that in (did that) and turn it counterclockwise with a crescent wrench (did that too). If that's it then I need to find a breaker bar.

CliffordK

I think it is usually a Park FR-1 or the compatible deep socket variety, FR-1.2 for most modern freewheels.

My Crescent Wrench is quite big.

Alternatively, people sometimes put the tool in a vice, then spin the wheel.

While technically you don't need to do it with splined remover tools, I always tighten the axle nut or QR down on the tool when I break it free, then loosen as I remove.

You undoubtedly have some broken bearings. Just replace the axle without cleaning up what is inside, and it will only last a few days. Your grease did, however, look surprisingly clean.

Deontologist

I made sure to wipe down the balls and put them back in with a liberal dose of grease.

I just tore down the entire hub again to replace the wavy cone with another, less wavy cone. I knocked some balls out of place so that was quite an adventure fishing them out and sticking them back in place with grease.

I'm still running into the same problem of not being able to find that sweet spot of bearing preload. Either the entire axle is loose or the axle doesn't turn at all. The cups are probably destroyed as you suggested.

Even the wheels on my Bikes Direct bike were better than this.

CliffordK

That cone is pretty destroyed, and one sees wear marks on the outside of the cone and the axle.

It appears as if it was ridden for a while as it was crumbling. You really need to view the condition of the rest of the hub, and make sure you get it all cleaned out and put together right. But, I can't imagine the races are still any good.

So, yes, a "new" wheel would in fact be better than that one.

Most of the generic cones I've been getting are pretty rough. I've started polishing them before reassembly which does wonders for the overall smoothness of the hubs.

SkyDog75

Dude... The cones are shot. The axle is shot. The cups are probably shot. I'm not surprised at all that you can't get it adjusted well.