AKmik

Hello all,

I just found your site , looks like lots of good info here.

I am looking for a new bike , I plan on spending somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000 or less. I have been looking at the Specialized rockhopper pro, seems like its well made with some decent components. What are your opinions on this rig?

Also the Hardrock pro looks like a good deal for around $700 with 6"disk brakes, any opinions on this one?

Ok last question , what othe bikes are in my price range that are good bikes? There is a specialized dealer here on the island and he is reasonable with his prices and seems like he will support his product after the sale.

My spot here is real hilly and mountainous, lots of steep rocky hills and muddy bottoms, are disks a real big help or will the rockhopper pro be all the bike I'll need to get myself into trouble? : )

Thanks for the help
Mike

DiL

If you're into specialized for around $1k I would shoot for a Stumpjumper. I don't see a hardtail rockhopper on the specialized site with discs on it, but I'll assume they're the Deore Hydro ones. People who have them seem pretty fond of them. Myself, I would rather go with a V brake or mechanical discs just for the simplicity. Bleeding the hydraulic lines is reall a pain.

DiL

Now that I take another look at the stumpjumper, I'm seeing a manitou fork on it. Thats not really my cup of tea. Manitou fans are in short supply on these forums. I know forum regular Raiyn recomends the Fuji Tahoe for a little under 1k. It comes with a RockShox Pilot, which isn't exactly my first choice either, but I would take just about anything before a Manitou .You'd probably have to order it, which would fill the gap to $1000 in shipping charges.

If your heart is set on disc brakes you could try a Kona Caldera for about 1k. You might also like a Kona Kula for a touch more.

math2p14

Hi mate,

I am a lucky owner of a heavily modified rockhopper 2003. In my opinion go for the rockhopper rather than the stumpy and spend the rest of the cash on upgrades. It has last years stumpy frame but beefed up and it can almost take freeride beating while capable of eating climbs. The manitou axel is a good fork but look for stiffer springs if you are heavy. I definately recommend rockhopper over the lightweight and possibly fragile stumpy and over the lower ended hardrock.

My rig is upgraded as follows.
Time Z control pedals
Raceface Deus stem
DeoreXT discs F/R.
DeoreXT drivetrain.

Go for it.

live311

I own a 2000 Stumpumper Pro that is currently far from stock (and isn't getting any stocker). It climbs like it has a motor and the frame is very stiff. And this is the old M2 frame. The M4's were stiffer, and I guess the new ones are stiffer yet. Good if you race and go uphill a lot, bad if you have bad joints and ride rocky trails a lot. If you do get a Stumpjumper, I would try to avoid the Pro edition. Most of the components are geared towards weight savings rather than durability. Don't find that out the hard way like I did (I just couldn't say no to that bright yellow frame, but did you know magnesium brake levers are easily breakable?). Other than that Specialized makes good components, like cranksets, stems, and headsets, and it keeps the cost of the bikes down. A Stumpjumper is a good choice.

Inf

I tested the stumpy twice. First time it felt like it was a nice ride but the second day I found that I was not that comfortable on it. So I tried GF Tassajara Disk it felt just right. So try out the bike a couple of times and see whats comfortable. Here is my previous post on it with a pic of the bike. Good luck.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ight=tassajara

Maelstrom 

It is really simple and is in fact easier than replacing the cables on mechs haha You also do it so infrequently it becomes irrelevant

The hardrock pro is a good bike. It is a bike that a local company uses for rentals for the mountains for the tourists who want a ht. I was considering buying one until I realized I had the money for my Kona ...

Raiyn

The Rockhopper Comp is a decently spec'd bike. I'd make a couple of modifications to it however. First, being a larger rider I don't trust the Mavic x139 wheel-set the bike comes with. You could get a set of Sun Rhynolites (on at least LX disc hubs) at www.pricepoint.com for around $100. Next you want Disc Brakes well opinions abound around here so here's mine: Get a set of Avid Mechanicals also at pricepoint for around $70 per wheel. You will need new cables and some more housing to properly run them but that stuff can be found anywhere for relatively cheap. The fork is a matter of personal preference. For example, my new Rockhopper Comp FSR never left the shop with it's Manitou Axel (read Flexel) instead I opted for a Rock Shox Duke XC U-turn (tuned for my weight of course) Bear in mind these are mod that I have done and have not regretted one iota. Ask your LBS if they'd have a problem mounting parts you bought online (mine didn't but I'm a regular customer) or if they'll give you comparable prices (adjusted for shipping costs) In my case the LBS gave me credit towards the new fork in exchange for the cast-off parts, making the new fork a free upgrade.
The mods that I picked were chosen after a LOT of research and I would suggest that you read reviews on ANY part that you consider for your new bike. One site I found useful was www.mtbr.com. One word of caution though READ the reviews. Some people will have one bad experience and trash the product even though in many cases it's their own fault (ie: improper installation or 350 lb dude on an air shock) Hope all this helps! Oh one other thing how long have you been riding?

Raiyn

Ahh but what happens when you biff and cut or snag one of those hydro lines? Buh Bye fluid! Buh Bye money for a whole new hose! If that happens on a mechanical system you just swap the cable (about 3 bucks and most experienced MTB'rs should have at least one anyway). Hmmm internally routed hydraulic lines....I wonder who will be the first to attempt this engineering nightmare? Internal line failure anyone?

FWIW I know I can swap the cables on my Avid's front and rear in about ten minutes INCLUDING adjustments.

AKmik

Thanks for all the info guys,

This is a big help .

I am kind of hoping to get the bike and ride it as is for a while , then do a couple of mods as I go along . seems like everyone surely hates that manitou fork...huh?

I am a heavy rider 5'10" and around 200lbs and the terrain is harsh here to say the least, lots of hilly rocky trails and places I probably have no business riding...I CAN'T WAIT!!! Some awesome mountains that have four wheeler trails ripped up the sides that just beg to be ridden.

I have been out of the biking scene for a while, havn't ridden in about 5 years. But I just hooked up with a bunch of pretty serious riders here and am chomping at the bit to get back out. especially with summer and 20yrs of daylight coming my way soon.

So the rockhopper will need some upgrades to make a good bike better it seems. I am still stuck between the hard tail RH or the full suspension version, and now the idea of the Stump jumper also, needs to be tough whichever way I go. ...so many choices.

thanks again
Mike

Scooby Snax

Rayin, great idea, use the frame as the resevior, one nippple in, one nipple out, fill the frame with fluid, lever attatches to the top tube. caliper attaches to the chain stay... oh the weight issue...

back to the drawing board!!

Im reading that you like you're Avids... Im thinking next year thats my route...

Maelstrom 

Never even thought of that. But I do know I feel a signifigant difference in power which has helped my left hand braking situation (small issue with missing fingers and no power)

Internal would suck if the line broke for sure. I have a couple of friends who route the line through the steer tube in their fork. It will be fun to see what happens if they break it.

Quote:

FWIW I know I can swap the cables on my Avid's front and rear in about ten minutes INCLUDING adjustments.

Yeah and it takes less then that to bleed. As long as the line isn't damaged everything is cool. If the line is damaged...expensive I assume and time consuming.

Maelstrom 

Rock Shox and Manipoo both have a couple of good forks in their lineup. But both have their share of squirely pieces of crap

No worries you are not big. A few of us here are in the 6'5 250ish rang (me being one). Just remember to absorb with your knees...

If your crowd is serious don't get a dually under a grand. Get the ht and save for a good dually.

Waldo

We've got a bunch of guys out of our shop riding Manitous with no problems (myself included). While I'm not a fan of the Axel, I'd say it's at least on par with the Pilot or anything else you might find in that price range. For your money, I'd see if you could afford the entry-level Stumpy. It should be right about a grand. This year's rockhopper frame is the same as last years Stumpy, though it is made of the A1 alloy rather than the M2. The M4 alloy and ORE tubing on the new Stumpy makes for a pretty sweet frame. You can always upgrade as you go, but you might as well get the nicest frame you can afford.

Raiyn

Me being another but an inch shorter.


Hardtail first - less to fix and it'll make a good backup should something break on the FS rig

moabrider47

Bought the bike yet?.....I've always been very impressed with the amount of bike you get for your money from Giant, especially around your price range. Based on the riding conditions you described, you would be a great canidate for discs, and would probably regret not getting them afterwards - hydraulic or not. It might be worth looking around some more in addition to the Specialized shop, unless it's the only decent LBS you can find. And remember that fit is the most important aspect of buying the bike. Make sure the LBS helps you get fitted properly. Good luck!

-Moab

dubMON

The Stumpjumper now comes with a Rock Shox Duke XC fork!!! Phooey on Manitou (poo).