Is This A Good Tire Swap ?
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Is This A Good Tire Swap ?
Looking for a tire with a bit more grip on grass, mud, slush, wet etc. Mostly on pavement but the current tires don’t inspire confidence if I encounter any of the above situations.
Thinking current Kenda Kwick-Trax 700 x 38c switch to WTB Byway, 650bx40c
Thinking current Kenda Kwick-Trax 700 x 38c switch to WTB Byway, 650bx40c
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No as they are completely different sizes and not cross compatible but WTB makes decent tires. I would recommend looking at Vittoria tires with Graphene in them they have excellent grip and you can get them in 700c. What I would recommend also is going with a wider tire if you can fit it.
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The WTB Byway is not a good performer when traction gets challenged (such as the conditions you mention). Despite its slick center section, it’s not an efficient tire on the road, either. For a balance between grip and rolling efficiency, you should be looking at “gravel” tires. A few worth considering…Tufo Gravel Thundero, Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H (or M, if you want better mud performance), WTB Vulpine.
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Situations such as slushy or snow patches on municipal bike lanes and turf when having to dodge pedestrians on multi use paths. The current Kendra always feel on the verge of sliding out of control.
So gravel tires are better than tires such as Continental Contact for a mix of pavement and nature. Interesting.
So gravel tires are better than tires such as Continental Contact for a mix of pavement and nature. Interesting.
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Situations such as slushy or snow patches on municipal bike lanes and turf when having to dodge pedestrians on multi use paths. The current Kendra always feel on the verge of sliding out of control.
So gravel tires are better than tires such as Continental Contact for a mix of pavement and nature. Interesting.
So gravel tires are better than tires such as Continental Contact for a mix of pavement and nature. Interesting.
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Take a look at the Continental Terra Speed Good reviews for rolling resistance on pavement as well as mild traction situations. Probably not good for actual mud.
Last edited by Camilo; 03-24-24 at 08:28 PM.
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The wheel sizes you mention are different. One is a 700C the other 650B. And there's no such thing as a "650bX40c. Widths are measured in MM, not "C". The letter in a wheel size does not refer to a size, but a naming convention, such as 700 tire would be 700c X 38 or 700X38c and the 650 tire would be 650bX40 or 650X40b.
Take a look at the Continental Terra Speed Good reviews for rolling resistance on pavement as well as mild traction situations. Probably not good for actual mud.
Take a look at the Continental Terra Speed Good reviews for rolling resistance on pavement as well as mild traction situations. Probably not good for actual mud.
Terra Speed is another good call.
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”Gravel” tires come in a wide range of tread configurations, widths, and casing types, for different uses. “Gravel” riding isn’t just riding on unpaved roads. Very frequently, a gravel ride includes a mix of surfaces, including pavement. Today, I did a 55mi road ride on my gravel bike, with a couple friends on high-end road bikes, using the same tires I use when I ride fireroads and singletrack. My tires roll efficiently enough on pavement that I wasn’t struggling to keep pace with my friends on a brisk tempo ride. My next gravel race will be on the same tires.
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Any thing can make sense.
However for me, I wouldn't put the surface conditions I ride in briefly in front of the surface conditions I ride in normally. The more tread pattern and thicker the tread pattern is, the more watts you'll loose. So on a long ride, that can be the difference in finishing tired or finishing with energy left. I just slow down and be careful when encountering adverse surface conditions so I can run slicks or tires with very little pattern.
However for me, I wouldn't put the surface conditions I ride in briefly in front of the surface conditions I ride in normally. The more tread pattern and thicker the tread pattern is, the more watts you'll loose. So on a long ride, that can be the difference in finishing tired or finishing with energy left. I just slow down and be careful when encountering adverse surface conditions so I can run slicks or tires with very little pattern.
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I’d take the advice of the professional who’s looking at the bike over advice of strangers on the internet, but that’s just me.
Last edited by bboy314; 03-25-24 at 02:58 PM.
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I get that but pavement here is in rough shape and I ride alot in the rain and slush. Looking for acceptable dry pavement performance with as much comfort and stability as possible in adverse conditions
the bike shop is telling me .wider Schwalbe Energizer Plus E-Bike Green Guard tire.
the bike shop is telling me .wider Schwalbe Energizer Plus E-Bike Green Guard tire.
Last edited by MikeDeason; 03-25-24 at 02:59 PM.
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EDIT: The Schwalbe Energizer doesn't look significantly different than the Kenda that is currently on your bike. That said, grip and rolling resistance are about more than just tread pattern.
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Last edited by Eric F; 03-25-24 at 03:47 PM.
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I don't think the bike shop is wrong to recommend the Schwalbe. You should try them. Then you'll know. It all depends a lot on most everything about you, the surface conditions you ride, how often you encounter the bad conditions, how far you like to ride, and your own personal preference. If they don't work for you then you'll know to try something else next time.
My experiences have led me to believe that tread pattern is unnecessary for riding paved road no matter how rough the road. Or for the few slippery spots with loose sand or mud that I encounter.
I've been riding GP5000's for quite a few years now and they grip the road very well. I'm not worried about slick spots. I just avoid them or slow down.
My experiences have led me to believe that tread pattern is unnecessary for riding paved road no matter how rough the road. Or for the few slippery spots with loose sand or mud that I encounter.
I've been riding GP5000's for quite a few years now and they grip the road very well. I'm not worried about slick spots. I just avoid them or slow down.
Last edited by Iride01; 03-25-24 at 03:28 PM.
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So they will hook me up a Cane Creek Thudbuster LT and Schwalbe Marathon tires. Hopefully, this smooths out and stabilizes the ride on cracked, uneven pavement in inclement weather. If not, my road bike hybrid will be traded for a different style bike.
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after doing a solid 20k ride home, these susp seats significantly up the comfort and confidence I have on this bike. Should be standard issue on bikes marketed as Urban, Commuter or Hybrids without Mountain bike susp systems. Perfect for cracked pavement, speed bumps, pot holes etc.
Last edited by MikeDeason; 03-26-24 at 11:55 AM.
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If you ever ride a bike that doesn't have such, most of us, especially those of us from BITD before such lavishness as active suspension on a bicycle, just unweight our butts from the saddle when we can't avoid bumps or are in them for a period of time. Similarly, the hands can be unweighted too during such bumps. Just takes some experience and practice.
It's not really standing so much as it is just putting more up pressure with out legs to hover above the saddle. The hand thing is balance, either while pedaling or not pedaling. Still holding on lightly, but keeping the bumps from being transferred into our arms and body.
It's not really standing so much as it is just putting more up pressure with out legs to hover above the saddle. The hand thing is balance, either while pedaling or not pedaling. Still holding on lightly, but keeping the bumps from being transferred into our arms and body.
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Sure. I do that and did it for years on my previous bike over speed bumps and pot holes. But severely cracked pavement makes up vast stretches of urban bike lanes and paths and I’m not into riding butt up my entire ride. This susp post seems like a perfect compromise so far
they give you 3 different density chunks of “elastobabble” aka , rubber, to tailor your ride
they give you 3 different density chunks of “elastobabble” aka , rubber, to tailor your ride
Last edited by MikeDeason; 03-26-24 at 01:00 PM.
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Imagine the backlash when every urban, commuter and hybrid bike goes up in price by $100-200 to include this wholly unnecessary suspension seat post. The current situation where those who want it, can add the brand/version of their choice and nobody else has to pay for it is working just fine.
As for the tires, I think the shop was happy to take your money to order you a slightly wider size from a different brand of tires just like what your bike came with. There are many versions of the Marathon tire, so I'm not sure exactly which ones you are getting, but they are a good tire and might offer better grip than the Kendas but probably not by a big margin.
I'm curious what pressure you were running in the tires, as too high of a pressure could certainly have contributed to both the ride quality and grip issues you experienced.
As for the tires, I think the shop was happy to take your money to order you a slightly wider size from a different brand of tires just like what your bike came with. There are many versions of the Marathon tire, so I'm not sure exactly which ones you are getting, but they are a good tire and might offer better grip than the Kendas but probably not by a big margin.
I'm curious what pressure you were running in the tires, as too high of a pressure could certainly have contributed to both the ride quality and grip issues you experienced.
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60 psi on the kenda. Sure an upgrade is an option but if they had mass adoption price would go down. This unit really smooths out the cracked bumpy concrete. Especially helpful in fast descents.
the unit bought was over $200CND but well worth it if it lasts.
the unit bought was over $200CND but well worth it if it lasts.
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What about people who ride on decent roads or manage to keep weight off the saddle over poor, bumpy roads? Why should everyone be forced into buying what you want for your situation?
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Dunno. This is my first narrow tire. Was told 60 is the sweet spot between mitigating the potential of pinch flats and punctures. The tire I bought is tubeless ready if I so choose.
they have a long travel LT version of the Thudbuster post but after using the ST I can’t see how you’d need more. Don’t see these on Mountain bikes.
they have a long travel LT version of the Thudbuster post but after using the ST I can’t see how you’d need more. Don’t see these on Mountain bikes.
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Situations such as slushy or snow patches on municipal bike lanes and turf when having to dodge pedestrians on multi use paths. The current Kendra always feel on the verge of sliding out of control.
So gravel tires are better than tires such as Continental Contact for a mix of pavement and nature. Interesting.
So gravel tires are better than tires such as Continental Contact for a mix of pavement and nature. Interesting.
Last edited by georges1; 03-26-24 at 05:31 PM.