Cut away my stem clamp to remove handlebars?
10-23-23, 08:15 AM
#26
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Plus doing all that nonsense just to raise 4 cm on a bike that already feels like standing upright.
10-23-23, 04:51 PM
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Welcome back to cycling! Modifying a stem like that could be risky and is generally not recommended. Cutting the clamp could weaken it or lead to uneven pressure on the handlebars. It's a critical part of your bike's steering system.
I'd strongly advise against trying this DIY approach. Instead, consider consulting a professional bike mechanic or a different bike shop. They may have alternative solutions for improving your riding position that don't involve potentially unsafe modifications. Safety should be the priority.
I'd strongly advise against trying this DIY approach. Instead, consider consulting a professional bike mechanic or a different bike shop. They may have alternative solutions for improving your riding position that don't involve potentially unsafe modifications. Safety should be the priority.
10-23-23, 05:23 PM
#29
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I sort of agree. However, it's the debate that I find ridiculous.
So, a thought experiment.
Imagine that the OP isn't raising the bars, and simply wanting to get rid of an AVA (so called) suicide stem.
If so, given that the replacement is a plate clamp type, cutting the original would be a labor saver vs. taking levers and grips off. So under those circumstances, many here would be happy to advise.
IMO, that's exactly where we are. Why doesn't matter, because to the OP the existing stem is going to the bin, same as it would if defective.
So, for the OP the only concern is that his replacement matches the bar. A good example of measure twice, cut once.
So, a thought experiment.
Imagine that the OP isn't raising the bars, and simply wanting to get rid of an AVA (so called) suicide stem.
If so, given that the replacement is a plate clamp type, cutting the original would be a labor saver vs. taking levers and grips off. So under those circumstances, many here would be happy to advise.
IMO, that's exactly where we are. Why doesn't matter, because to the OP the existing stem is going to the bin, same as it would if defective.
So, for the OP the only concern is that his replacement matches the bar. A good example of measure twice, cut once.
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10-23-23, 08:09 PM
#30
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If the bike doesn't fit well and its well over 42 years old wouldn't it be better to just replace it? Seems like a modern hybrid with a 1x11 system, a new saddle, and new bearings would make for a more enjoyable ride than a bike you didn't find enjoyable enough to pick up for 42 years.
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10-23-23, 09:30 PM
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Is it though? The thing that takes the longest is re-taping the handlebars. Aside from that, you're talking about 5 or 10 minutes of work, and zero risk. It seems like it would take a lot longer to carefully cut through the clamp, going slowly so you don't cut into the handlebar, and seems like more work and more hassle to me.
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10-23-23, 11:15 PM
#32
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In the clearest terms he asked for tips in support of his desire to do a "Caesarian". Likewise, he didn't ask if this was the best way, so I chose to answer the question asked, rather than argue for or against.
Alternatively, someone might refer him to a bike DIY co-op near him, or walk him though removing the levers, to show that it is within his skill set.
We each bring our own worldview to the forum, so there's rarely a single right answer. Hopefully, those asking for help can choose from a variety if answers for the one they want.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-23-23, 11:15 PM
#33
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Honestly, just find a bike shop that'll do this work. I wouldn't mind doing this--customers can try for whatever riding position they like, I'm happy to make that happen so long as it's mechanically sound, and a longer steel quill stem is reasonable so long it's installed above the minimum insertion mark. It would take me way longer to safely cut the stem than to remove/reinstall half the controls on the bars, and maybe loosen a few cables.
You may or may not like how your bike handles with a very high handlebar position, but it's really easy to just lower them somewhat with the quill if that's the case.
Attached is the most alarmingly tall
setup I did for a customer. Custom crazy long steerer steel fork from Zinn cycles. Dude is an OG roadie, just had some very real medical issues requiring a very upright posture, and a probably somewhat excessive attachment to his bike. I hated how it rode (so squirrely!) but I don't think there's anything mechanically unsound about it.
You may or may not like how your bike handles with a very high handlebar position, but it's really easy to just lower them somewhat with the quill if that's the case.
Attached is the most alarmingly tall
setup I did for a customer. Custom crazy long steerer steel fork from Zinn cycles. Dude is an OG roadie, just had some very real medical issues requiring a very upright posture, and a probably somewhat excessive attachment to his bike. I hated how it rode (so squirrely!) but I don't think there's anything mechanically unsound about it.
10-29-23, 12:21 PM
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Of course, raising the handlebar might require longer shift and brake cables.
11-02-23, 04:47 PM
#36
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best thing to do is STRETCHING EXERCISES... your body is old and stiff (Mine too)... limber it up.
as to getting your bars out of the stock stem... if it's rolled steel, just BEND it open!a big flat blade screwdriver works for this... start by placeing the driver in the clamp slot and TWIST,, then work the blade up between the bar and stem and pry...
i've done this more than once.
and be aware.. raising the bars too much will only lead to HIP and LOWER BACK PAIN.
go see a Bicycle Fitting expert and get your bike set up Correctly, or suffer the consequences.
i just re[placed a seat for a customer.. she arrived sore from chaffing, and requested a Wider, cushier seat... she tested a wider "couch" seat, and several that i recommended... she left much happier.. on a NARROWER, harder padded seat, featuring more roll-off in the inner thigh area, and it was moved Forward too... "I LOVE THIS SEAT!!!" BIG Smile! i also coached her to anticipate bumps and unweight her rump by placing more weight on the PEDALS..... "this lets the bike rock back and forth, but not rub you in the wrong ways..."
as to getting your bars out of the stock stem... if it's rolled steel, just BEND it open!a big flat blade screwdriver works for this... start by placeing the driver in the clamp slot and TWIST,, then work the blade up between the bar and stem and pry...
i've done this more than once.
and be aware.. raising the bars too much will only lead to HIP and LOWER BACK PAIN.
go see a Bicycle Fitting expert and get your bike set up Correctly, or suffer the consequences.
i just re[placed a seat for a customer.. she arrived sore from chaffing, and requested a Wider, cushier seat... she tested a wider "couch" seat, and several that i recommended... she left much happier.. on a NARROWER, harder padded seat, featuring more roll-off in the inner thigh area, and it was moved Forward too... "I LOVE THIS SEAT!!!" BIG Smile! i also coached her to anticipate bumps and unweight her rump by placing more weight on the PEDALS..... "this lets the bike rock back and forth, but not rub you in the wrong ways..."
12-15-23, 08:30 AM
#37
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Done
I paid a retired local guy to change my stem; he had worked in a bike shop for 9 years. He removed my old bars the old-fashioned way (without using a cutter!) and charged me only $20.
I asked him, "So how far were you able to raise the new stem without causing the cables to bind?"
He replied, "All the way to the safety mark."
What a difference the added 70mm (2.8 inches) has made. I can now ride upright, able to see everything around me. For the first time in 42 years, I'm riding with a smile on my face.
I asked him, "So how far were you able to raise the new stem without causing the cables to bind?"
He replied, "All the way to the safety mark."
What a difference the added 70mm (2.8 inches) has made. I can now ride upright, able to see everything around me. For the first time in 42 years, I'm riding with a smile on my face.
12-15-23, 10:24 AM
#38
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Definitely worth the $20 bucks.
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