Myths of the road tubeless (or Go back to clinchers)
10-09-21, 10:27 AM
#101
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10-09-21, 12:43 PM
#102
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What's a 'small puncture'? I'd consider this to mean a tiny slow leak from eg. one of those miniscule radial tire wires. Of course also, as a tire leaks, even if it starts at 85-90psi, if the sealant doesn't work up at that psi, doesn't it seal when the tire has eventually deflated to the aforementioned 70psi?
10-09-21, 02:24 PM
#103
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The posters reporting positive experience here usually mention pressures around 60-70 PSI. I think I saw only one mentioning positive experience at 100 PSI, with a particular sealant (Orange Seal). I didn’t test it but I can say that, in my experience, other sealants I tried (one being under Stan’s “umbrella”) simply do not seal a small puncture at 85-90 PSI or above.
I was the person that used OS at 100-105psi. OS would seal that. Any sealant to be used at road pressures should have particulate, as does OS. But we're just talking in circles because I've done it and you haven't, but you somehow know better.
I just don't understand why you don't go back to tubes if a) you're not willing to do this right b) you never had a problem with punctures. You're essentially running a TT tire. Are you just looking for the absolute lowest RR for races, or what?
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10-09-21, 04:02 PM
#104
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It nearly sealed: I was able to turn back home ok, but with around 50% deflated tire and some thin sealant spread over the brake and frame. But next 2-3 rides were the same: around 50% deflated tire, thin film of sealant spread over the brake and frame and a very small drop of sealant visible on the hole, after 2 hours of riding. It was like higher pressure always "spit" the seal and pushed the liquid sealant trough the hole. It was less than 1 mm.
10-10-21, 01:05 AM
#105
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Pretty simple, but in the case of tight tires, this is your best friend.....
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tir...s%2C200&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tir...s%2C200&sr=8-2
10-10-21, 04:23 AM
#106
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Don't forget to tuck one of these in your back pocket, too.
10-10-21, 05:02 AM
#107
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Thread revival: I probably found a way to fix it, although the long time of the process (including seating back an old tire to the rim) doesn’t make me feel any better about the road tubeless. The solution below might work, by avoiding the plug to be “spit” at high pressures of the road bike tire.
1. Remove the tire from the rim and clean well the hole area on inside part of the tire
2. Insert plug1 as per repair kit instructions
3. Insert a plug2 through the loop of plug 1 on inside part of the tire
4. Pull plug1, to assure that both plugs take contact with the inside of the tire
5. Apply further glue (if provided by repair kit) on the plugs, on the inside part of the tire
6. Wait for around 24 hours, then press the system on the inside part of the tire, to assure further pasting.
In real life, it looks as below. For those with lot of imagination: the brown color is not what you think it is…
. It is just the color of the repair plugs.
1. Remove the tire from the rim and clean well the hole area on inside part of the tire
2. Insert plug1 as per repair kit instructions
3. Insert a plug2 through the loop of plug 1 on inside part of the tire
4. Pull plug1, to assure that both plugs take contact with the inside of the tire
5. Apply further glue (if provided by repair kit) on the plugs, on the inside part of the tire
6. Wait for around 24 hours, then press the system on the inside part of the tire, to assure further pasting.
In real life, it looks as below. For those with lot of imagination: the brown color is not what you think it is…
. It is just the color of the repair plugs.
10-10-21, 07:35 AM
#108
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I've been riding mountain roads since 2003, but in my current area for just over 3 years. No rock related crash yet.
10-10-21, 07:42 AM
#109
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A tubeless tire is usually much easier to break the bead and get it back on, after some use. I tested my michelin tires at home, using the tire tools that came with my fulcrum wheels. It was no problem, so I know that I can get a tube in, if needed. I won't bother with plugs or bacon strips.
10-10-21, 08:17 AM
#110
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Why the opposition? Often, they can be a permanent fix (my last bacon strip lasted the remaining life of the tire, some 2,500+ miles) that gets you back rolling within a couple minutes. Or, if you really want to, you can treat it as an in-the-field fix, to get you rolling, and then address it to your satisfaction from the comfort of your shop. I went tubeless to minimize the amount of time and effort spent on roadside fixes; plugs are a natural and efficient extension of that, IMO.
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10-10-21, 08:52 AM
#111
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I've ridden over 15,000 miles since I started cycling again and haven't had a puncture yet, other than two rock induced pinch flats before I went tubeless. If I regularly got several punctures per year that needed bacon strips, I might try them. I've ridden about 5,000 on tubeless with no punctures so far, so I just plan to use a tube, if ever needed.
10-10-21, 08:57 AM
#112
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Yeah I was looking at those. My biggest concern was getting a puncture that won't seal and having to throw in a tube and not being able to get the bead off on a ride. And it would really suck if I was on a group ride and everyone would be having to wait for me. However, I had to remove/install my rear MTB tire so many times when I was trying to convert it that it loosened up pretty good. I'm assuming road tires would as well which is the reason I'm considering it now.
10-10-21, 09:06 AM
#113
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Okay, so it's still early. If you don't get to the point where you need to address, in one fashion or another, a non-sealing puncture in the field, cool - that'll be very fortunate. If you do, though, you may find yourself rethinking your stance. Adding plugs of some sort is cheap insurance, that doesn't take up much space or weight, against additional roadside work.
10-10-21, 10:02 AM
#114
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I bought some new Pirelli clinchers to try after running tubeless for the past 4 years or so. While I don’t get as many flats with tubeless, the flats I do get usually put an end to the ride because the sealant doesn’t work very well at higher pressures. And while plugs etc. may work to get me home, I don’t feel comfortable bombing 45 mph descents with a plug in my tire so I end up riding back home and fixing it….which is a complete pain in the ass compared to the 3 minutes it takes to swap a tube.
I’ve had 3 flats recently and 2 of them required the tire to be replaced. Since my wheels are tubeless ready, I can switch back and forth if want so, I figured I’d give tubes another go and see how much time I spend fixing flats compared the tubeless setup.
.
I’ve had 3 flats recently and 2 of them required the tire to be replaced. Since my wheels are tubeless ready, I can switch back and forth if want so, I figured I’d give tubes another go and see how much time I spend fixing flats compared the tubeless setup.
.
10-10-21, 10:53 AM
#115
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My rear TLR rim is such a PITA to change a tubed tire on, that I had decided to go tubeless, just on the rear. However that's a 23mm tire that I run at 100 lbs. And I've already ordered all the stuff except for the tire. After reading this thread, I think maybe what I have might be better that what I'd get, so I'll put that stuff in my spares tote and leave bad enough alone. I still do fast technical descents. The only flat I've had on that rear in the past year was on my rollers. Yeah, roller flats happen. I think I might have had a bit of grit between tire and tube which wore through the latex. Yes, wouldn't have happened with tubeless.
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10-10-21, 11:54 AM
#116
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I've never patched a tube on the road either. Never carried a patch kit.
10-10-21, 12:04 PM
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10-10-21, 12:05 PM
#118
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I really don’t want to find out what one of those pointy Dynaplugs will do to my carbon rim if the tire goes flat with one installed. I have a feeling one bad bump will drive that thing right through the rim…
Last edited by BHG6; 10-10-21 at 12:14 PM.
10-10-21, 12:18 PM
#119
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Pretty simple, but in the case of tight tires, this is your best friend.....
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tir...s%2C200&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tir...s%2C200&sr=8-2
10-10-21, 12:49 PM
#120
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10-10-21, 12:54 PM
#121
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Those patches are never used on the road. They're supposed to make a permanent repair, after getting home with a tube in the tire. That's why I carry a tube. Plugs and bacon strips aren't always a permanent fix.
I've never patched a tube on the road either. Never carried a patch kit.
I've never patched a tube on the road either. Never carried a patch kit.
10-10-21, 01:06 PM
#122
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Yeah I was looking at those. My biggest concern was getting a puncture that won't seal and having to throw in a tube and not being able to get the bead off on a ride. And it would really suck if I was on a group ride and everyone would be having to wait for me. However, I had to remove/install my rear MTB tire so many times when I was trying to convert it that it loosened up pretty good. I'm assuming road tires would as well which is the reason I'm considering it now.
That is what the dynaplug is for... no need to put a tube in
10-10-21, 01:09 PM
#123
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yes. I used one the other day to get the last little bit of tire over the rim on my new rear wheel.
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10-10-21, 01:17 PM
#124
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the plug tip generally stays on the plug itself and it not free floating. After I got a three inch nail in my tire and rode home without flatting, I pulled the nail, plugged the hole and pumped the tire back up ensuring the plug was doing it's thing. When I pulled the tire to check the rim due to the size of the nail, there was no damage and the plug head was still attached. I went ahead and pulled the plug head off while I had off. I have since put 500 miles on this plug without issue.
10-10-21, 01:17 PM
#125
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