Canker

https://reservewheels.com/products/f...ubeless-valves
There you go, no more clogs.

SoSmellyAir

At this point, I have bought: (1) Terske 44 mm titanium valves; (2) Stan's 55 mm valves; and (3) Muc Off V2 60 mm valves, so I should have just bought the Reserve Fillmores to begin with. The 50 mm version would have been the perfect height too. But at least the Muc Off valves are installed now.

JustAHouseCat

Has anyone worked with these Fillmore valves yet? They're pricey and it probably doesn't make sense monetarily to use when you can just replace a valve core. That promise of more air getting through does sound promising though. Just not sure if it actually is "impossible to clog".

SoSmellyAir

The Reserve Fillmore valves are supposed to allow more air flow, which is supposed to make it (1) easier to seat the tire beads and (2) harder to clog the valve cores. I have a compressor so the first is not an issue for me, and the second is, as you said, not a huge deal. Upon further research, the Reserve Fillmore has a "self-clearing poppet" which precludes a sealant injector from extending through the valve and past the rim bed, which is how I prefer to add sealant.

SoSmellyAir

Front tire mounted tubeless (per procedure outlined by Koyote) and holding air; so far so good.

My experience with the Muc Off V2 tubeless valves have been good. They just need to be finger tightened until the grommet -- I used the thicker conical version -- at the base is firmly compressed against the rim bed. Overly tightening them would actually deform this grommet. After learning this lesson from installing the Muc Off V2 valves (and before adding sealant) I went back to try installing the Terske valves again but one still audibly and discernibly leaks, so Muc Off V2 it is.

masi61

I commented earlier in this thread about how a tape job that is compromised at all can leak air and that the air then typically leaks through the valve stem. This can happen even when the tubeless valve is installed correctly. Even though you said they were taped good from the factory, it is may only be good for the first set of tires they are used with. If you are on your second set of tires with these original tubeless tapes, it may well be time to put 2 layers of the correct width of quality tubless tape then reinstall the valves of your choice, finger tight.

SoSmellyAir

These are brand new Roval wheels (with factory tubeless tape that looks good) on which I am installing my first set of brand new tires, so my first suspect were the nice looking but no name valves. If there was still a problem after replacing valves I would have retaped them (or brought them to a Specialized dealer for retaping).

masi61

Gotcha, I just wanted to put this out there since even a good looking tape job can sometimes have micro air bubbles where they don't adhere down. Sealant can leak under these dodgy spots which can then seal or maybe lead to poor air holding. I had got so stressed thinking that it was the valves that were not performing as they should to where I overtightened the valve nuts and created new leaks from the valve and damaged the cone. The learning curve for me on how to do a leak free install unfortunately took over a year of messing with these types of leaks.

Koyote

If you examine those wheels closely, you’ll find a tiny hole in each rim - right over the valve hole. Any air that gets past the rim tape will escape through that hole…Which means that, if the tire holds air with the new valve, the rim tape is fine. All of the air is staying right where it’s supposed to be.

SoSmellyAir

Yes, the drain / vent hole.

SoSmellyAir

In my case, I had also swapped the Terske valves between the two wheels and the hissing problem followed the valve, so it seems more likely to be an issue with one valve than the new factory tubeless tape.

From my limited experience so far, Stan's valves are more tolerant of over-tightening, because the grommet (which forms the seal between the valve stem and the valve stem hole) is molded over the base of the valve stem. In Muc Off and similar valves, the grommet is simply slid like a tight sleeve over the base of the valve stem, and subject to deformation if the valve stem nut is over-tightened, which may cause a leak between the grommet and the base of the valve stem.

SoSmellyAir

Both front and back tires mounted and holding air. Will soon have a functional gravel bike again (after installation of cassette, brake rotors, and chain). Thank you everyone for chiming in with good advice.