For the love of English 3 speeds...
#7351
Senior Member
Yeah, I had to search quite a bit online to get them. And yeah, the low max PSI was weird. 45 is acceptable for my 26" x 2.1" tires, but for 26" x 1 3/8"? I generally overinflated them, but still got flats.
#7352
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@ncrnelson, very very nice!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#7353
Senior Member
I have a couple SW hubs here. My experience with them is that they're very easy to overhaul -- fewer parts than the AW and no fiddly pawl springs to deal with -- but the springless pawls do not catch as reliably as the AW's sprung pawls. Most of the time this just means you might go half a crank rotation or more before they catch, but in cold weather the problem is exacerbated. When it gets below freezing you really can't count on them catching at all!
I also have an SW modified to use flat springs under the pawls in the manner Brian Hayes describes on Sheldon Brown's site. This works well, but the flat springs do wear because the pawls rock on them and eventually erode through the spring.
N.B. I do have a supply of SW spare parts, if you find you need something.
I also have an SW modified to use flat springs under the pawls in the manner Brian Hayes describes on Sheldon Brown's site. This works well, but the flat springs do wear because the pawls rock on them and eventually erode through the spring.
N.B. I do have a supply of SW spare parts, if you find you need something.
#7354
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You might consider a 4-speed like the FW if you want a lower gear. Its a lot more reliable than the SW. The problem I had with the SW is it would let loose in 3rd gear, regardless of temperature.
It didn't occur to me until after I got rid of it that a different lubricant might have worked better in it.
It didn't occur to me until after I got rid of it that a different lubricant might have worked better in it.
#7355
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@ncrnelson, very very nice!
#7356
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What's your opinion of the SW compared to an AW from the utility perspective? It would be nice to have a little lower first gear, but the difference between gears is greater than an AW and the biggest complaint I have with the AW is the difference between 2d and 3rd. I'd like the ratios to be a little closer.
#7357
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That seems like a small difference, but the gaps in an AW are too wide for me, too. I think the more vigorously you ride (and thus the better your conditioning), the closer you want your gears. It's a big reason I don't ride IGHs regularly.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#7358
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You might consider a 4-speed like the FW if you want a lower gear. Its a lot more reliable than the SW. The problem I had with the SW is it would let loose in 3rd gear, regardless of temperature.
It didn't occur to me until after I got rid of it that a different lubricant might have worked better in it.
It didn't occur to me until after I got rid of it that a different lubricant might have worked better in it.
Correct- an FW would do nicely for what he is describing.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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#7359
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Never had the opportunity to ride with a FW or AM hub. Overdrive on the AW is too high for me also. Right now, I'm having fun riding a 69 Sprite with a S5. It has two modes (wide ratio and close ratio) controlled by a two position shifter on the left side. After replacing the top tube stick shifters with a regular handlebar trigger, it works perfectly.The close ratio mode is what I've always wanted on a 3 speed. I haven't come up with a shifter for the left side yet. I'm too busy riding it in close ratio mode. I'll get to it someday. Not really missing the two extra gears.
#7360
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#7361
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I rode the sofa perched upon the seat post for a couple of days before I went to a real saddle. It's not a Brooks, but a Japanese B-15ish Fujita Belt model. I would like to find a B-66, but this will do for now. Second gear needed a bit of adjustment. It always worked up shifting from first, but sometimes found neutral down shifting from third.
I put a leather backpack that I bought from a college auction for a dollar on it and made a beer run. This one is definitely a keeper. I am going to ride it this summer and then address all of the bearings come late fall.
The only change I may make is a larger cog at the rear.
I put a leather backpack that I bought from a college auction for a dollar on it and made a beer run. This one is definitely a keeper. I am going to ride it this summer and then address all of the bearings come late fall.
The only change I may make is a larger cog at the rear.
#7363
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I rode the sofa perched upon the seat post for a couple of days before I went to a real saddle. It's not a Brooks, but a Japanese B-15ish Fujita Belt model. I would like to find a B-66, but this will do for now. Second gear needed a bit of adjustment. It always worked up shifting from first, but sometimes found neutral down shifting from third.
I put a leather backpack that I bought from a college auction for a dollar on it and made a beer run. This one is definitely a keeper. I am going to ride it this summer and then address all of the bearings come late fall.
The only change I may make is a larger cog at the rear.
I put a leather backpack that I bought from a college auction for a dollar on it and made a beer run. This one is definitely a keeper. I am going to ride it this summer and then address all of the bearings come late fall.
The only change I may make is a larger cog at the rear.
#7365
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I've noticed a few three speeds with front baskets on here. Has anyone had issues with the basket interfering with the front brake? I just got a really nice front basket and I can't actually seem to ride with anything in it, because the brake keeps half closing and squeaking on my wheel. Do I have to buy a zillion dollar front rack? Ughhhh.
#7366
Count Orlok Member
Depends on the basket and how it's mounted. What basket are you using?
You may need to set your cables in a certain position.
You may need to set your cables in a certain position.
#7367
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I've noticed a few three speeds with front baskets on here. Has anyone had issues with the basket interfering with the front brake? I just got a really nice front basket and I can't actually seem to ride with anything in it, because the brake keeps half closing and squeaking on my wheel. Do I have to buy a zillion dollar front rack? Ughhhh.
#7368
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@markk900 Thank you! So maybe I should replace the basket straps with some other hardware? Hmm. I might diy a bracket to stabilize it (woven basket).
#7369
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Have you got pictures of your current set up?
Edit: just looked at your blog - yes that basket set up like that is not going to work well! I think that particular style of woven basket is designed for coaster braked bikes (ie. nothing with cables up front!). I also expect you won't be able to put too too much into it anyway as there is no lower mount to hold the weight.
I know I have seen woven baskets at the LBS that come with standoffs, and one style that had a frame like on my wife's but the basket lifted free - but on your blog you said you didn't want a permanent mount so the easiest thing I think for your setup is a couple of metal straps (like the wald mounts in my picture) to push the bag away from the bars about 6".
Edit: just looked at your blog - yes that basket set up like that is not going to work well! I think that particular style of woven basket is designed for coaster braked bikes (ie. nothing with cables up front!). I also expect you won't be able to put too too much into it anyway as there is no lower mount to hold the weight.
I know I have seen woven baskets at the LBS that come with standoffs, and one style that had a frame like on my wife's but the basket lifted free - but on your blog you said you didn't want a permanent mount so the easiest thing I think for your setup is a couple of metal straps (like the wald mounts in my picture) to push the bag away from the bars about 6".
Last edited by markk900; 06-01-15 at 06:19 PM.
#7370
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@markk900 Thank you! So maybe I should replace the basket straps with some other hardware? Hmm. I might diy a bracket to stabilize it (woven basket).
I've made use of those to offset a front basket a bit. It won't work as well as that Wald set up, but it should keep the basket from interfering with the brakes.
#7371
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Have you got pictures of your current set up?
Edit: just looked at your blog - yes that basket set up like that is not going to work well! I think that particular style of woven basket is designed for coaster braked bikes (ie. nothing with cables up front!). I also expect you won't be able to put too too much into it anyway as there is no lower mount to hold the weight.
I know I have seen woven baskets at the LBS that come with standoffs, and one style that had a frame like on my wife's but the basket lifted free - but on your blog you said you didn't want a permanent mount so the easiest thing I think for your setup is a couple of metal straps (like the wald mounts in my picture) to push the bag away from the bars about 6".
Edit: just looked at your blog - yes that basket set up like that is not going to work well! I think that particular style of woven basket is designed for coaster braked bikes (ie. nothing with cables up front!). I also expect you won't be able to put too too much into it anyway as there is no lower mount to hold the weight.
I know I have seen woven baskets at the LBS that come with standoffs, and one style that had a frame like on my wife's but the basket lifted free - but on your blog you said you didn't want a permanent mount so the easiest thing I think for your setup is a couple of metal straps (like the wald mounts in my picture) to push the bag away from the bars about 6".
#7372
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i have a Wald basket that came with my bike . it was on it and the headlight had a handlebar mount as the factory mount with a light would hit the basket .i still have the factory mount that the headlight is on now as the basket is off . i almost threw the basket away .
#7373
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Oh hey, this guy uses a wooden block (scroll down a bit). That looks like it'll work in a pinch. Hmmm. I just ordered a heron light mount from Ebay because it's pretty cool, although my bike is a Glider, so it's heron-less. If it doesn't work, i'll try a block.
Last edited by forestine; 06-01-15 at 08:51 PM.
#7374
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Went to the biker bar tonight on my badazz Raleigh twenty full dresser. Got all rowdy, tried to pick up a chick, but rather she wanted my bike and told me to fly a kite.
Last edited by crank_addict; 06-01-15 at 10:02 PM.
#7375
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Oh hey, this guy uses a wooden block (scroll down a bit). That looks like it'll work in a pinch. Hmmm. I just ordered a heron light mount from Ebay because it's pretty cool, although my bike is a Glider, so it's heron-less. If it doesn't work, i'll try a block.