Advice on shock bolt dilemma
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Advice on shock bolt dilemma
Hi everyone
So I managed to pick up an old 2007 Giant Trance 1 frame for 1€ and want to bring it back to life. Unfortunately, I wasn't aware that sourcing the shock bolts would be so difficult. I have read that it would be better to use the Giant specific bolts designed for the frame but having reached out to several LBS there is no chance of getting only the bolts. One shop quoted me 119€ for the bearing set which apparently has the bolts but that would blow my budget out of the water.
Do you guys have any suggestion on possible alternatives? I cant believe that the frame is essentially unusable unless you are able to find factory bolts.
So I managed to pick up an old 2007 Giant Trance 1 frame for 1€ and want to bring it back to life. Unfortunately, I wasn't aware that sourcing the shock bolts would be so difficult. I have read that it would be better to use the Giant specific bolts designed for the frame but having reached out to several LBS there is no chance of getting only the bolts. One shop quoted me 119€ for the bearing set which apparently has the bolts but that would blow my budget out of the water.
Do you guys have any suggestion on possible alternatives? I cant believe that the frame is essentially unusable unless you are able to find factory bolts.
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Looking at a kit, it seems have a few other bits, on the basis that these are included, maybe it won't be such a bad price if they are needed as well?
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Hi everyone
So I managed to pick up an old 2007 Giant Trance 1 frame for 1€ and want to bring it back to life. Unfortunately, I wasn't aware that sourcing the shock bolts would be so difficult. I have read that it would be better to use the Giant specific bolts designed for the frame but having reached out to several LBS there is no chance of getting only the bolts. One shop quoted me 119€ for the bearing set which apparently has the bolts but that would blow my budget out of the water.
Do you guys have any suggestion on possible alternatives? I cant believe that the frame is essentially unusable unless you are able to find factory bolts.
So I managed to pick up an old 2007 Giant Trance 1 frame for 1€ and want to bring it back to life. Unfortunately, I wasn't aware that sourcing the shock bolts would be so difficult. I have read that it would be better to use the Giant specific bolts designed for the frame but having reached out to several LBS there is no chance of getting only the bolts. One shop quoted me 119€ for the bearing set which apparently has the bolts but that would blow my budget out of the water.
Do you guys have any suggestion on possible alternatives? I cant believe that the frame is essentially unusable unless you are able to find factory bolts.
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What puzzles me is that the bolts don't look to be particularly special. The upper bolt mounts directly into the swingarm, is it called that? I would assume that a standard m6x30 bolt with a washer would do the same job.
The lower bolt goes completely through, hence a bolt with some washers and a nut would also do the job. If I was to buy some generic bolts how long would the smooth part (shaft) need to be? I am asking because I have a Lapierre 410, which has a shock bolt, that has a very small shaft. I would even say that the bushing is entirely resting on the threads of the bolt.
Just stumbled upon a generic Shimano brake caliper bolt (m6x32,1) and when compared to the original bolt in the picture (the one on top) i can't see any noticeable difference. I would even say that the shaft is longer on the Shimano bolt. Would the material be different?
The lower bolt goes completely through, hence a bolt with some washers and a nut would also do the job. If I was to buy some generic bolts how long would the smooth part (shaft) need to be? I am asking because I have a Lapierre 410, which has a shock bolt, that has a very small shaft. I would even say that the bushing is entirely resting on the threads of the bolt.
Just stumbled upon a generic Shimano brake caliper bolt (m6x32,1) and when compared to the original bolt in the picture (the one on top) i can't see any noticeable difference. I would even say that the shaft is longer on the Shimano bolt. Would the material be different?
Last edited by Stormy85; 04-06-22 at 04:50 AM. Reason: supplement my answer
#5
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I tend to agree with you that factory bolt replacement should be possible with non-original fasteners. I have no experience with mountain bikes but assume you are talking about the bolts holding the bellcrank to the swingarm to the rear and to the shock in front, just above the bottom bracket. Check the heads of the factory bolts for markings that indicate grade. If none, I would use the strongest bolts you can obtain, at least grade 8 if these are imperial bolts or else 12.9 if they are metric. Provided you measure the bolt diameters accurately ( vernier caliper ) so that you have the correct play between parts, I can't see a problem. Your question about how long should the smooth part of the bolt be ( technically called the grip length ) is a good one, often ignored by everyone including manufacturers. You do not want the threads themselves being loaded in shear against the parts being secured, otherwise you have the workings of a low speed mill every time the suspension acts. Have the smooth part all the way through the assembly, with the threads only being there at the very end to allow the nut to fasten. If the factory bolts were special lengths, you may have to shorten the threads and perhaps add some washers on the bolts that you are able to get from a fastener specialist ( bolt shop ).
Last edited by redshift1; 04-07-22 at 03:09 PM. Reason: Removed brackets. Grammar.
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Just stumbled upon a generic Shimano brake caliper bolt (m6x32,1) and when compared to the original bolt in the picture (the one on top) i can't see any noticeable difference. I would even say that the shaft is longer on the Shimano bolt. Would the material be different?
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I tend to agree with you that factory bolt replacement should be possible with non-original fasteners. I have no experience with mountain bikes but assume you are talking about the bolts holding the bellcrank to the swingarm to the rear and to the shock in front, just above the bottom bracket. Check the heads of the factory bolts for markings that indicate grade. If none, I would the strongest bolts you can obtain, at least grade 8 if these are imperial bolts or else 12.9 if they are metric. Provided you measure the bolt diameters accurately ( vernier caliper ) so that you have the correct play between parts, I can't see a problem. Your question about how long should the smooth part of the bolt be ( technically called the grip length ) is a good one, often ignored by everyone including manufacturers. You do not want the threads themselves being loaded in shear against the parts being secured, otherwise you have the workings of a low speed mill every time the suspension acts. Have the smooth part all the way through the assembly, with the threads only being there at the very end to allow the nut to fasten. If the factory bolts were special lengths, you may have to shorten the threads and perhaps add some washers on the bolts that you are able to get from a fastener specialist ( bolt shop ).