Gipiemme Crono Sprint 870 Retrofrizione
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Gipiemme Cronosprint 870 Retrofrizione
Hello All-
I just picked up a set of Gipiemme Cronosprint 870 shifters and I’m trying to figure out what type of shifter braze-on and/or shifter clamp they mount on. The interior of the shifter is round just like a normal braze-on retrofriction shifter but the mounting plate is different. It looks like they might fit on a Simplex/Huret style clamp.
Does anyone have experience with these shifters?
Thanks!
____________
Simplex clamp with round mounts.
I just picked up a set of Gipiemme Cronosprint 870 shifters and I’m trying to figure out what type of shifter braze-on and/or shifter clamp they mount on. The interior of the shifter is round just like a normal braze-on retrofriction shifter but the mounting plate is different. It looks like they might fit on a Simplex/Huret style clamp.
Does anyone have experience with these shifters?
Thanks!
____________
Simplex clamp with round mounts.
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Turns out they fit on my Masi perfectly!
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Last edited by BertoBerg; 05-02-24 at 05:18 PM.
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Very cool..... in that classic coke spoon way!
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From the looks of it, these Gipiemme shifters are basically Simplex Retrofrictions. Gippiemme had sourced a lot of its components from Simplex back then, so it woupd not be surprising if they made very si.ilar products to Simplex. These might have been made right when the patent for Retrofrictions expired, which would make it simpler for them to design their own shifters, based on the Simplex Retrofrictions.
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I love their plastic scoops. These are awesome!
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From the looks of it, these Gipiemme shifters are basically Simplex Retrofrictions. Gippiemme had sourced a lot of its components from Simplex back then, so it woupd not be surprising if they made very si.ilar products to Simplex. These might have been made right when the patent for Retrofrictions expired, which would make it simpler for them to design their own shifters, based on the Simplex Retrofrictions.
I have a pair of Syncro II Campagnolo shifters marked Gippiemme.
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I’m having a heck of a time getting these things to not slip. If order to keep them from slipping I have to really crank down on the screw which makes moving the shifter forward very difficult. This is my third set of Retrofrictions and I’ve never had this problem before. Argh!
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I’m having a heck of a time getting these things to not slip. If order to keep them from slipping I have to really crank down on the screw which makes moving the shifter forward very difficult. This is my third set of Retrofrictions and I’ve never had this problem before. Argh!
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...e-feeding.html
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I’m having a heck of a time getting these things to not slip. If order to keep them from slipping I have to really crank down on the screw which makes moving the shifter forward very difficult. This is my third set of Retrofrictions and I’ve never had this problem before. Argh!
I also Do not lubricate the internals of my retrofrictions to give tye clutch spring a good grip on the internal barrel. Just clean them out with WD40 periodically to clean them out. Retrofrictions do not depend on the mounting bolts for its friction action. It gets its function one way action with just the clutch spring and internal barrel.. That is why they are not supplied with D rings or wing nuts. Just plain screws that can strip easily if overtightened.
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Did you get the shifter used or NOS?. If used, the clutch spring and/or the internal barrel that it grips on to, might be worn out.
I also Do not lubricate the internals of my retrofrictions to give tye clutch spring a good grip on the internal barrel. Just clean them out with WD40 periodically to clean them out. Retrofrictions do not depend on the mounting bolts for its friction action. It gets its function one way action with just the clutch spring and internal barrel.. That is why they are not supplied with D rings or wing nuts. Just plain screws that can strip easily if overtightened.
I also Do not lubricate the internals of my retrofrictions to give tye clutch spring a good grip on the internal barrel. Just clean them out with WD40 periodically to clean them out. Retrofrictions do not depend on the mounting bolts for its friction action. It gets its function one way action with just the clutch spring and internal barrel.. That is why they are not supplied with D rings or wing nuts. Just plain screws that can strip easily if overtightened.
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Did you get the shifter used or NOS?. If used, the clutch spring and/or the internal barrel that it grips on to, might be worn out.
I also Do not lubricate the internals of my retrofrictions to give tye clutch spring a good grip on the internal barrel. Just clean them out with WD40 periodically to clean them out. Retrofrictions do not depend on the mounting bolts for its friction action. It gets its function one way action with just the clutch spring and internal barrel.. That is why they are not supplied with D rings or wing nuts. Just plain screws that can strip easily if overtightened.
I also Do not lubricate the internals of my retrofrictions to give tye clutch spring a good grip on the internal barrel. Just clean them out with WD40 periodically to clean them out. Retrofrictions do not depend on the mounting bolts for its friction action. It gets its function one way action with just the clutch spring and internal barrel.. That is why they are not supplied with D rings or wing nuts. Just plain screws that can strip easily if overtightened.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
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You can tell if the internal barrels are worn out if you see grooves on them. Many don't believe that the mounting screws do not provide the friction on these shifters, You are getting good evidence though though that they don't as you noted that you tightened the mounting screws as much as you can and the shifters still did not function correctly. Remember, the shifters should only provide friction on the push forward direction to resist the springs on the derailleurs. There should be no friction when pulling back on the levers. You can check this before you install the cables from the shifter to the derailleurs.
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Typical Retrofriction layout on the inside.
However, these shifters don’t have a groove for the arm of the spring like every other Retrofriction I’ve seen. This makes me wonder how the spring is installed in the first place.
Anyway…I cleaned the hard and tacky grease that covered the washers and internals of the shifter. I sprayed the spring with WD40 as best as I could as suggested by Chombi1.
However, these shifters don’t have a groove for the arm of the spring like every other Retrofriction I’ve seen. This makes me wonder how the spring is installed in the first place.
Anyway…I cleaned the hard and tacky grease that covered the washers and internals of the shifter. I sprayed the spring with WD40 as best as I could as suggested by Chombi1.
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If it can be done, you might try switching the spring clutches from one side to the other. On the Simplex you cannot do that as the springs are handed left and right, but if the ones on the Gippieme are symmetrical it might work. The switching of springs might put the coils in a slightly different position on the inner barrel and away from the wear grooves.
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If it can be done, you might try switching the spring clutches from one side to the other. On the Simplex you cannot do that as the springs are handed left and right, but if the ones on the Gippieme are symmetrical it might work. The switching of springs might put the coils in a slightly different position on the inner barrel and away from the wear grooves.
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Weird/interesting.... without the slot in the lever barrel and the angled little bit at the end of the spring who does the 'clutching' work...?
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Typical Retrofriction layout on the inside.
However, these shifters don’t have a groove for the arm of the spring like every other Retrofriction I’ve seen. This makes me wonder how the spring is installed in the first place.
Anyway…I cleaned the hard and tacky grease that covered the washers and internals of the shifter. I sprayed the spring with WD40 as best as I could as suggested by Chombi1.
However, these shifters don’t have a groove for the arm of the spring like every other Retrofriction I’ve seen. This makes me wonder how the spring is installed in the first place.
Anyway…I cleaned the hard and tacky grease that covered the washers and internals of the shifter. I sprayed the spring with WD40 as best as I could as suggested by Chombi1.
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Deep cleaning the right shifter seemed to do the trick! Working as expected now.
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