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Patching Butyl Tubes - Problems

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Old 02-22-24, 01:38 PM
  #51  
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Better get a can as quick as ya can...

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Old 02-22-24, 06:33 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by easyupbug
It is acetone or in some brands a less effective remover. I use pure acetone to finally clean the tube prior to Rema, works well.
Thanks.
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Old 02-22-24, 06:41 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Pompiere
Something I have noticed, is that matching the tube size to the tire helps reduce the number of failed patches. When the tube has to stretch to fill the inside of the tire, it puts more stress on the patch and they start to pull away. I use the skinny tubes in my 25 mm tires and wider ones in the 28 and 32 mm tires.

I always use a kitchen timer to make sure the glue in thoroughly dry. I have also made patches out of old tubes, as well as rejoining the ends of a rubber rim strip. When gluing two pieces of rubber (vs. a patch), I put glue on both surfaces and let it dry before joining them together.

Those old Camel heat vulcanizing patches were the best, although I don't think they made any small enough for bike tires. My parents owned a truck stop in the 1970s and I put a lot of them on truck inner tubes. The second-hand smoke from one patch was probably equivalent to a pack of cigarettes.
I remember watching my dad do that in the basement. Probably wheelbarrow tubes.
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Old 02-22-24, 06:51 PM
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I doubt Rema fluid is available in my country. And I can never bring it down on thd plane. I should do some looking around though.
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Old 02-24-24, 05:52 PM
  #55  
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I go full Hank Hill and sand thoroughly in multiple directions, let the cement dry dry-dry, and after patching I stick it in a c clamp between a couple round-cornered pieces of planed-flat wood for a day or so.

no issues.
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Old 02-24-24, 06:30 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by seedsbelize2
I doubt Rema fluid is available in my country. And I can never bring it down on thd plane. I should do some looking around though.
However, the glue I just bought claims to be vulcanizing. I bet that’s not true though.
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Old 02-24-24, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by zandoval
In case you are wondering.... https://youtu.be/r9hMSVQcDSA
That's how my dad taught me to patch tubes, in the '60s. They used a specially-made small C-clamp that held the whole contraption tightly against the tube, then you lit it with a match. Super smelly, definitely outdoors only. I doubt they were intended for bicycle tubes, but that's what we used 'em for. I think I still have the little C-clamp around here somewhere, lot of good it does me without the patches...
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Old 02-25-24, 08:47 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by RCMoeur
You misunderstand.
I was being facetious and my joke fell flat. Sorry

I was describing the follow-up post-patching check, not the initial bubble check. On the first pass, yes, I go all the way around and clearly mark every discovered hole. If a tube has more than two holes, I usually discard it as the economics of patching goes way down (I consider Slime a hole for this evaluation, as it can temporarily mask holes and gum up valves). Exceptions can be made for uncommon or hard-to-find tubes.
I put far more patches on a tube before I discard it. It’s not that expensive for the patch and job ($0.75 to $1.25 per patch) but putting more patches on keeps the tube out of the waste stream. Since rubber really isn’t recyclable, any amount that you can keep out of the waste stream is better. 30 is probably too many but 2 is too few.
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Old 02-25-24, 10:33 AM
  #59  
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Recycle? They come in handy for wrapping when grafting trees and adding supports. Wrapped the bike rack to protect against accidental rear door opening. There is a thread on here somewhere.
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Old 02-25-24, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I was being facetious and my joke fell flat. Sorry



I put far more patches on a tube before I discard it. It’s not that expensive for the patch and job ($0.75 to $1.25 per patch) but putting more patches on keeps the tube out of the waste stream. Since rubber really isn’t recyclable, any amount that you can keep out of the waste stream is better. 30 is probably too many but 2 is too few.
There are NEVER misunderstandings regarding intent in electronic communications! Everyone knows that! This is the future, you see!!



The "more than two" is typically at one time, as I figure at so much per patch + my time that putting 3 or more patches on at once isn't efficient. But if the tube already has 8 good patches and I add one or two more, that's no biggie.

(here is where an economist would come bursting in and say "There's no difference!!" This is why we don't invite them.)
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Old 02-25-24, 05:16 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by RCMoeur
When a tube of vulcanizing fluid is opened and used on the road, I typically will replace it in the bike's patch kit with an unopened tube when I get home, and place the opened tube in the home patching supplies for use.
I was on a ride with Jacquie Phelan, and when we came to a scenic spot to rest and have a bite, she admonished the people who parked their bikes in the sun. She said "don't join the Park It In The Sun Hiking Club" as in you'll be walking home if you need a patch and the glue is all dried out. Though I question whether sun versus shade makes all that much difference for the little time we spent looking at the scenery, when we'd been out in the sun all day before and after the rest stop. I'd generalize the advice to "think about how old your glue is, and replace it before it dries up." Words to live by — or at least to ride (not walk) by.
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Old 02-25-24, 05:52 PM
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Jacquie is a charmer...
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Old 02-26-24, 07:05 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by curbtender
Jacquie is a charmer...
She was mentioned in an item that showed up on BRAIN today:

Charlie Cunningham selling unique spoke machine to support care | Bicycle Retailer and Industry News
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Old 02-28-24, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
Inquiring minds want to know--do you tear off the thin plastic outer-most layer on the Rema patches?
I just noticed that the Rema instructions show removal of the outer plastic as the last step in the process.
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Old 02-28-24, 10:34 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by NJgreyhead
I just noticed that the Rema instructions show removal of the outer plastic as the last step in the process.
Yes but that step can be skipped. I’m not a fan of fishing small bits of plastic out of the tire on the next flat so I remove the plastic but nothing is harmed by leaving it in place.
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Old 02-29-24, 10:27 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Yes but that step can be skipped. I’m not a fan of fishing small bits of plastic out of the tire on the next flat so I remove the plastic but nothing is harmed by leaving it in place.
This is good to know. Removing the plastic has the risk of peeling the patch up. I am now good at it, but I have to be careful. Waiting until the patch has worked in an inflated tire makes it easier.
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Old 02-29-24, 10:47 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by noglider
This is good to know. Removing the plastic has the risk of peeling the patch up. I am now good at it, but I have to be careful. Waiting until the patch has worked in an inflated tire makes it easier.
Most patches have a score in that plastic. If you bend the patch in half before you remove the foil it should release it.
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Old 02-29-24, 10:55 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by curbtender
Most patches have a score in that plastic. If you bend the patch in half before you remove the foil it should release it.
Yes, that's what I usually do. Gotta pull it in the right direction.
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