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Bar-end install trick?

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Old 12-16-22, 08:30 AM
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ehcoplex 
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Bar-end install trick?

Having a heck of a time with a set of Dia-Compe bar-ends. The tapered nut just spins with the pod and won't tighten down and spread the sleeve shims. Didn't have this problem installing Suntour Bar-Cons.... Yeah, I know that don't have to be super tight and the cable housing will (help) keep them in place, but I'd like 'em to be at least somewhat secure. Anybody have a trick to try?
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Old 12-16-22, 08:43 AM
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Did you adjust the sleeves to just barely insert into the bar? If there is enough friction between the sleeves and the bar, they might not rotate with the nut.
I am surprised there isn't a feature that prevents this situation.
Lubricate the threads.
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Old 12-16-22, 08:47 AM
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First idea that comes to mind after making sure both surfaces were clean is a bit of valve lapping compound (or toothpaste in a pinch) where the nut just spins to give it a touch of friction to allow you to tighten it and a little oil on the screw.
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Old 12-16-22, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
Did you adjust the sleeves to just barely insert into the bar? If there is enough friction between the sleeves and the bar, they might not rotate with the nut.
I am surprised there isn't a feature that prevents this situation.
Originally Posted by Schweinhund
First idea that comes to mind after making sure both surfaces were clean is a bit of valve lapping compound (or toothpaste in a pinch) where the nut just spins to give it a touch of friction to allow you to tighten it and a little oil on the screw.
Yeah, I put a little grease on the screw... toothpaste might be worth a shot. Seems like there ought to be a tiny tab or ridge on the nut that would lodge in the seam of the expanding shims to keep the nut from spinning...
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Old 12-16-22, 11:36 AM
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Maybe a bit of bees wax would work. Even better would be a product called Museum Wax, but it’s something most folks probably don’t have lying around.
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Old 12-16-22, 11:46 AM
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Or the mod bike shop use of friction paste
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Old 12-16-22, 12:10 PM
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I looked at the Suntour barcon. It has a spring around the wedges which induces friction against the mating surfaces and consequently doesn't rotate.
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Old 12-16-22, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
Seems like there ought to be a tiny tab or ridge on the nut that would lodge in the seam of the expanding shims to keep the nut from spinning...
Make one (hammer and punch).
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Old 12-16-22, 01:34 PM
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Well doh...! as the bald, yellow cartoon character says.... Tried a bit of beeswax, which did nothing, and was taking things apart to see about adding a little ridge to keep the tapered part from spinning (it's actually not a nut, it's a screw- the 'pod' is the nut part) and, lo-and-behold, the tapered part is hollow and takes an allen wrench. Remove the shift levers, put the pod in position, tighten with the allen wrench, re-install the levers.
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Old 12-16-22, 02:17 PM
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Well now I am confused about what you were trying to do before, but never mind - glad you got it sorted.
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Old 12-16-22, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by due ruote
Well now I am confused about what you were trying to do before, but never mind - glad you got it sorted.
I was just trying to get the shifters tightened in the bars- with the Suntours I tightened them enough to just slide into the bars then turned them to position and tighten securely- I didn't have to remove the shift levers from the pods to do it. Now if only the snow-storm hadn't delayed my cable-housing order I'd be taping up the bars!
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Old 12-16-22, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
Well doh...! as the bald, yellow cartoon character says.... Tried a bit of beeswax, which did nothing, and was taking things apart to see about adding a little ridge to keep the tapered part from spinning (it's actually not a nut, it's a screw- the 'pod' is the nut part) and, lo-and-behold, the tapered part is hollow and takes an allen wrench. Remove the shift levers, put the pod in position, tighten with the allen wrench, re-install the levers.
Well, now I'm intrigued. You installed Suntour barcons in the past without removing the shift levers? I thought that was just how it is done. That's why I couldn't picture the issue you were having with the Dia Compes, but now I get it.
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Old 12-16-22, 06:25 PM
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Was the allen key reverse thread?
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Old 12-17-22, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
Well doh...! as the bald, yellow cartoon character says.... Tried a bit of beeswax, which did nothing, and was taking things apart to see about adding a little ridge to keep the tapered part from spinning (it's actually not a nut, it's a screw- the 'pod' is the nut part) and, lo-and-behold, the tapered part is hollow and takes an allen wrench. Remove the shift levers, put the pod in position, tighten with the allen wrench, re-install the levers.
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/suntou...ers-manual.pdf
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Old 12-17-22, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by noobinsf
Well, now I'm intrigued. You installed Suntour barcons in the past without removing the shift levers? I thought that was just how it is done. That's why I couldn't picture the issue you were having with the Dia Compes, but now I get it.
I guess I must have just been lucky with the Barcons..
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Old 12-17-22, 09:06 AM
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I was in a parking lot a couple of years ago where a number of people were packing up an 18 wheeler. One person was installing the front wheel of a bike using the QR lever to screw it down tight.
I could not help myself. I instructed him how to properly use a QR and warned him of the potential damage to both him and the bike with the approach he was taking.

At least this approach did not do any harm!
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Old 12-17-22, 09:37 AM
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with the Suntours I tightened them enough to just slide into the bars then turned them to position and tighten securely- I didn't have to remove the shift levers from the pods to do it
This is how I've always done it - one of the nice features of the Suntours. You tighten until you can just barely insert them, insert with the lever pointing 90 degrees right, then twist clockwise a quarter turn until the lever is point down. You can also usually get them out without disassembling by twisting a quarter turn counterclockwise.
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Old 12-17-22, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
I was in a parking lot a couple of years ago where a number of people were packing up an 18 wheeler. One person was installing the front wheel of a bike using the QR lever to screw it down tight.
I could not help myself. I instructed him how to properly use a QR and warned him of the potential damage to both him and the bike with the approach he was taking.
The irony is how QRs were invented to replace wingnuts - mainly because of the possible dangers in a fall - but the industry has still failed to design a QR that the general public can't mistake for or use as a wingnut, which might instigate a wheel shifting out of place...and thus a fall.

-Kurt
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Old 12-17-22, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
The irony is how QRs were invented to replace wingnuts - mainly because of the possible dangers in a fall - but the industry has still failed to design a QR that the general public can't mistake for or use as a wingnut, which might instigate a wheel shifting out of place...and thus a fall.

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And thus, lawyers lips are explained.
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Old 12-17-22, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Schweinhund
And thus, lawyers lips are explained.
They only do so much. They're completely useless if the wheel shifts and jams against the inside of a chainstay or fork blade. Rider could go down anyway.

-Kurt
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Old 12-18-22, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
They only do so much. They're completely useless if the wheel shifts and jams against the inside of a chainstay or fork blade. Rider could go down anyway.

-Kurt
Aye, they won't stop a wheel from ejecting due to disc brake force, or rattling the nut off, either. I've frequently seen QR nuts where the nylon insert has 1) fallen out, 2) been used so frequently it has no function 3) the skewer length isn't long enough to reach it. And that's on new bikes that were ostensibly specified with them from the factory. How many years on, and the best that they've reached to outbuild the "better idiot" is to simply remove the lever altogether and make them use a hex key to tighten/loosen it.

And as above, you can frequently install bar-end shifters "mostly-tight", and simply turn the body of the shifter (which advances the threads through the compression assembly). Shimano's electric bar-end shifters for modern time trial bikes are actually built this way, meant to be installed with a large cone wrench to turn the body of the shifter around the [fixed] screw.
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