Bar-end install trick?
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Bar-end install trick?
Having a heck of a time with a set of Dia-Compe bar-ends. The tapered nut just spins with the pod and won't tighten down and spread the sleeve shims. Didn't have this problem installing Suntour Bar-Cons.... Yeah, I know that don't have to be super tight and the cable housing will (help) keep them in place, but I'd like 'em to be at least somewhat secure. Anybody have a trick to try?
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Did you adjust the sleeves to just barely insert into the bar? If there is enough friction between the sleeves and the bar, they might not rotate with the nut.
I am surprised there isn't a feature that prevents this situation.
Lubricate the threads.
I am surprised there isn't a feature that prevents this situation.
Lubricate the threads.
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Last edited by SJX426; 12-16-22 at 08:57 AM.
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First idea that comes to mind after making sure both surfaces were clean is a bit of valve lapping compound (or toothpaste in a pinch) where the nut just spins to give it a touch of friction to allow you to tighten it and a little oil on the screw.
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#5
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Maybe a bit of bees wax would work. Even better would be a product called Museum Wax, but it’s something most folks probably don’t have lying around.
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Or the mod bike shop use of friction paste
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I looked at the Suntour barcon. It has a spring around the wedges which induces friction against the mating surfaces and consequently doesn't rotate.
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Well doh...! as the bald, yellow cartoon character says.... Tried a bit of beeswax, which did nothing, and was taking things apart to see about adding a little ridge to keep the tapered part from spinning (it's actually not a nut, it's a screw- the 'pod' is the nut part) and, lo-and-behold, the tapered part is hollow and takes an allen wrench. Remove the shift levers, put the pod in position, tighten with the allen wrench, re-install the levers.
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I was just trying to get the shifters tightened in the bars- with the Suntours I tightened them enough to just slide into the bars then turned them to position and tighten securely- I didn't have to remove the shift levers from the pods to do it. Now if only the snow-storm hadn't delayed my cable-housing order I'd be taping up the bars!
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Well doh...! as the bald, yellow cartoon character says.... Tried a bit of beeswax, which did nothing, and was taking things apart to see about adding a little ridge to keep the tapered part from spinning (it's actually not a nut, it's a screw- the 'pod' is the nut part) and, lo-and-behold, the tapered part is hollow and takes an allen wrench. Remove the shift levers, put the pod in position, tighten with the allen wrench, re-install the levers.
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Was the allen key reverse thread?
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Well doh...! as the bald, yellow cartoon character says.... Tried a bit of beeswax, which did nothing, and was taking things apart to see about adding a little ridge to keep the tapered part from spinning (it's actually not a nut, it's a screw- the 'pod' is the nut part) and, lo-and-behold, the tapered part is hollow and takes an allen wrench. Remove the shift levers, put the pod in position, tighten with the allen wrench, re-install the levers.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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I guess I must have just been lucky with the Barcons..
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I was in a parking lot a couple of years ago where a number of people were packing up an 18 wheeler. One person was installing the front wheel of a bike using the QR lever to screw it down tight.
I could not help myself. I instructed him how to properly use a QR and warned him of the potential damage to both him and the bike with the approach he was taking.
At least this approach did not do any harm!
I could not help myself. I instructed him how to properly use a QR and warned him of the potential damage to both him and the bike with the approach he was taking.
At least this approach did not do any harm!
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
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with the Suntours I tightened them enough to just slide into the bars then turned them to position and tighten securely- I didn't have to remove the shift levers from the pods to do it
#18
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I was in a parking lot a couple of years ago where a number of people were packing up an 18 wheeler. One person was installing the front wheel of a bike using the QR lever to screw it down tight.
I could not help myself. I instructed him how to properly use a QR and warned him of the potential damage to both him and the bike with the approach he was taking.
I could not help myself. I instructed him how to properly use a QR and warned him of the potential damage to both him and the bike with the approach he was taking.
-Kurt
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The irony is how QRs were invented to replace wingnuts - mainly because of the possible dangers in a fall - but the industry has still failed to design a QR that the general public can't mistake for or use as a wingnut, which might instigate a wheel shifting out of place...and thus a fall.
-Kurt
-Kurt
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#21
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And as above, you can frequently install bar-end shifters "mostly-tight", and simply turn the body of the shifter (which advances the threads through the compression assembly). Shimano's electric bar-end shifters for modern time trial bikes are actually built this way, meant to be installed with a large cone wrench to turn the body of the shifter around the [fixed] screw.