What Would Sheldon Do? A 5 Speed Freewheel Morality Thread
#26
Senior Member
So... here's the the background... you have a workhorse rider from the days of the golden age of 5 speed freewheels (namely, the 70's) and it's time to give that old steed a new drivetrain. What would you go with? What do think Sheldon would go with (if he were still here)? I kinda want your specifics, as in "I'd still ride 5 speeds, with a Shimano 14-28 freewheel, and KMC Z6 speed chain, because I'm notoriously thrifty and it's a pancake topography here". Or, "I'm going to spread the chainstays, and slip a 7 speed IRD 12-32 in there, with an 8 speed SRAM PC-830 chain, because I'm all about Minimal Gains". Like that. What do you got?
When going to serious mountains, I have a very 1980's Ultra-6 set up I can swap into the drive train. It uses a 13-32 Ultra-6 freewheel and an Ultra-6 chain, a Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur and I switch to 42/45T chain rings. This yields a very nice half-step gearing pattern but I only use it in the mountains. Out west we have elevations of 5, 6, ,7,000 ft and more). When I get back home, I switch back to the 1970's gearing.
C&V gearing is where it's at for me, but your gearing has to SUIT YOU AND YOUR TERRAIN.
Last edited by Bad Lag; 05-01-22 at 11:24 AM.
Likes For Bad Lag:
#28
Señor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,923
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1491 Post(s)
Liked 1,090 Times
in
638 Posts
In Grant Petersen's book Just Ride is a chapter titled "You have way too many gears". I think he's right, for most people. 2x5 is plenty of gears to ride your bike just about anywhere you want to go. We didn't lack for more gears back when that's all there was, when a "ten speed" was the pinnacle of bicycle engineering. We just rode our bikes and did just fine.
All that is to say that if it were me, I would keep the original configuration and enjoy the bike for what it was originally. I never understood the obsession with putting more gears on an older bike, even up to and including spreading the rear triangle. If you need (or want) more gears or a different configuration, that's why we have more than one bike.
All that is to say that if it were me, I would keep the original configuration and enjoy the bike for what it was originally. I never understood the obsession with putting more gears on an older bike, even up to and including spreading the rear triangle. If you need (or want) more gears or a different configuration, that's why we have more than one bike.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
Likes For USAZorro:
#29
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,639
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4682 Post(s)
Liked 5,800 Times
in
2,284 Posts
Chas, I thought that was the purpose of this forum?
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
Likes For gugie:
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: south kansas america
Posts: 1,910
Bikes: too many
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 411 Post(s)
Liked 234 Times
in
140 Posts
Back when I was 18-21 (a fit young adult with a 10 speed), I only used the big ring up front and spent almost all my time on the small (14 tooth) rear sprocket. When I got to a hill (and while generally flat, my hometown of Rochester, NY has a few that are moderately steep), I'd downshift to the 15 tooth cog in the rear. After returning from a 25-ish year hiatus from cycling I found that those two gear combinations only suit me on slight downhills where I have no headwind. Clearly, the laws of physics have changed since 1981 and the world needs more gearing choices than it once did.
#31
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26419 Post(s)
Liked 10,380 Times
in
7,208 Posts
.
...since all my 120 spaced bicycles are friction shifted, I mostly just go with a regular 5 speed freewheel on them. A lot of them are equipped with the sort of derailleurs that seem to work best with a 14/24 or at most 14/26 cog configuration in the back, and it's easier for me to find a gear with a 5 speed freewheel than one of the narrower Ultra 6. I had one last Ultra 6 freewheel I was saving for a special occasion, and I put it on the rear of a Holdsworth Professional. Every time I have to fiddle with it to get it solidly on the cog, I wish I'd just gone with a 5. Most of these are 52/42 in front, but a couple are 52/40, or some Shimano cranks with 52/38. somehow I ended up with a Nervex crank with 52/40 rings. Until then, I never knew such a thing existed.
I pretty much use those KMC X-8.9 series chains on everything. Also, it's pretty flat here, but with a lot of wind at certain times of the year.
The troublesome Holdsworth Ultra 6.
...since all my 120 spaced bicycles are friction shifted, I mostly just go with a regular 5 speed freewheel on them. A lot of them are equipped with the sort of derailleurs that seem to work best with a 14/24 or at most 14/26 cog configuration in the back, and it's easier for me to find a gear with a 5 speed freewheel than one of the narrower Ultra 6. I had one last Ultra 6 freewheel I was saving for a special occasion, and I put it on the rear of a Holdsworth Professional. Every time I have to fiddle with it to get it solidly on the cog, I wish I'd just gone with a 5. Most of these are 52/42 in front, but a couple are 52/40, or some Shimano cranks with 52/38. somehow I ended up with a Nervex crank with 52/40 rings. Until then, I never knew such a thing existed.
I pretty much use those KMC X-8.9 series chains on everything. Also, it's pretty flat here, but with a lot of wind at certain times of the year.
The troublesome Holdsworth Ultra 6.
__________________
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,931
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
I don't think Sheldon would be afraid to update to something more modern. Mind you it really depends on the riding your doing. For some of us, like me, the most vintage part of the bike, is the engine.... Rather then swapping out the freewheel, I would rather run a different chainring, something like a 46/32 or even a 42/30 and leave the rear mechanism the way it is....
Likes For Wogster:
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SANTA CRUZ
Posts: 159
Bikes: 82 Univega Specialissima, Bike Friday Pocket Rocket, Kona Wheelhouse, Rocky Mtn Thunderbolt, Viner Strada Bianca, ~73 Bob Jackson, ~75 Volkscycle Mark100.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked 183 Times
in
73 Posts
For me, gear range, not the number of gears is important. Regardless of gear range, having a low gear is most important to me where I live. Almost any ride longer than 10 miles will include 1000' climbs with pitches in excess of 10%. I have to work hard to find routes that don't have big climbs (other than going around the neighborhood block over and over...).
I have converted 120mm to 130mm a couple of times. Had a local frame builder do it a few times, done it myself as well. If I really like the bike, I let some else do it... Not hard to do. Most converted to get a bigger gear range and lower gears, not to get more gears. Prefer 8spd stuff. Bullet proof, inexpensive and easy to find.
I have converted 120mm to 130mm a couple of times. Had a local frame builder do it a few times, done it myself as well. If I really like the bike, I let some else do it... Not hard to do. Most converted to get a bigger gear range and lower gears, not to get more gears. Prefer 8spd stuff. Bullet proof, inexpensive and easy to find.
Likes For OldCoot:
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,495
Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 583 Post(s)
Liked 698 Times
in
393 Posts
Since this thread has gone off script a bit, I will amend an earlier post about 6 speeds. I had one 13-30 on another bike and recently at the co-op came into a uniglide 13-30 cassette. Numbers for these 13-15-18-21-25-30 seem to come out nicely with common front chainrings. Unfortunately for me, one is on a seldom ridden 27” heliocomatic, and the other on an anodized set that is not my usual style. The numbers work out so well that I will reevaluate my fleet.
#35
I am potato.
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 3,116
Bikes: Only precision built, custom high performance elitist machines of the highest caliber. 🍆
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1789 Post(s)
Liked 1,629 Times
in
933 Posts
I'll see your 63 speeds and raise you by 18.
Quite honestly, I'm not sure whether Sheldon would have jumped all in, or would say that living in Kansas, the Author only needs one gear for upwind and one for downwind - which could be achieved by either a kickback hub, or by going with a single rear sprocket and a double, or a flip-flop. I think the key is to do something audacious and do it unapologetically. If the rear is to be spread, go to 130 and throw a 9-speed in there. One never knows when you may have to outsprint a pack of rowdy farm dogs, or get swept up in a tornado and find yourself in some far off land that has hills.
Quite honestly, I'm not sure whether Sheldon would have jumped all in, or would say that living in Kansas, the Author only needs one gear for upwind and one for downwind - which could be achieved by either a kickback hub, or by going with a single rear sprocket and a double, or a flip-flop. I think the key is to do something audacious and do it unapologetically. If the rear is to be spread, go to 130 and throw a 9-speed in there. One never knows when you may have to outsprint a pack of rowdy farm dogs, or get swept up in a tornado and find yourself in some far off land that has hills.
When the spec sheet says the biggest cog that can be used is a 34 tooth; What they mean is: "This is a road hub. Since road subcompacts are 50/34, don't run lower than 1:1 drive ratio."
Also fun fact: A Shimano 11 speed mountain cassette fits on a 8,9,10 speed freehub body.
I'm running mine with a 11 speed, 11-42, with a 42 tooth chainring. 20-140 gear inches. All but the 3-4 smallest cogs get used daily. As intended. Small cogs wear quickly.
Sturmey-Archer really created a gem of a hub with the CS-RK(f)3. It's cool to see another one out in the wild.
__________________
I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
I shouldn't have to "make myself more visible;" Drivers should just stop running people over.
Car dependency is a tax.
Likes For base2:
#36
Señor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,923
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1491 Post(s)
Liked 1,090 Times
in
638 Posts
Fun fact with that hub:
When the spec sheet says the biggest cog that can be used is a 34 tooth; What they mean is: "This is a road hub. Since road subcompacts are 50/34, don't run lower than 1:1 drive ratio."
Also fun fact: A Shimano 11 speed mountain cassette fits on a 8,9,10 speed freehub body.
I'm running mine with a 11 speed, 11-42, with a 42 tooth chainring. 20-140 gear inches. All but the 3-4 smallest cogs get used daily. As intended. Small cogs wear quickly.
Sturmey-Archer really created a gem of a hub with the CS-RK(f)3. It's cool to see another one out in the wild.
When the spec sheet says the biggest cog that can be used is a 34 tooth; What they mean is: "This is a road hub. Since road subcompacts are 50/34, don't run lower than 1:1 drive ratio."
Also fun fact: A Shimano 11 speed mountain cassette fits on a 8,9,10 speed freehub body.
I'm running mine with a 11 speed, 11-42, with a 42 tooth chainring. 20-140 gear inches. All but the 3-4 smallest cogs get used daily. As intended. Small cogs wear quickly.
Sturmey-Archer really created a gem of a hub with the CS-RK(f)3. It's cool to see another one out in the wild.
Mr. Author... note that this is installed on a 1971 Raleigh Super Course that I received as a frame with perished paint. Despite Chas's dire warnings, I detect no alignment issues with this critter. I DO have to get to the bottom of why the rear tire keeps going flat on me, but that's an entirely different issue. Only you can decide what seems right to you, but I sometimes have dreams of showing up at Lake Pepin with this, and that makes me smile. I'll take that over yet another (that would make somewhere between 6 and 13 of them - depending on definition) run of the mill ten-speed restored to near-factory specs.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,495
Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 583 Post(s)
Liked 698 Times
in
393 Posts
Blasphemy! Turn in your C&V membership card.
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: south kansas america
Posts: 1,910
Bikes: too many
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 411 Post(s)
Liked 234 Times
in
140 Posts
I'll see your 63 speeds and raise you by 18.
Quite honestly, I'm not sure whether Sheldon would have jumped all in, or would say that living in Kansas, the Author only needs one gear for upwind and one for downwind - which could be achieved by either a kickback hub, or by going with a single rear sprocket and a double, or a flip-flop. I think the key is to do something audacious and do it unapologetically. If the rear is to be spread, go to 130 and throw a 9-speed in there. One never knows when you may have to outsprint a pack of rowdy farm dogs, or get swept up in a tornado and find yourself in some far off land that has hills.
Quite honestly, I'm not sure whether Sheldon would have jumped all in, or would say that living in Kansas, the Author only needs one gear for upwind and one for downwind - which could be achieved by either a kickback hub, or by going with a single rear sprocket and a double, or a flip-flop. I think the key is to do something audacious and do it unapologetically. If the rear is to be spread, go to 130 and throw a 9-speed in there. One never knows when you may have to outsprint a pack of rowdy farm dogs, or get swept up in a tornado and find yourself in some far off land that has hills.
Last edited by uncle uncle; 04-30-22 at 02:07 PM.
#39
Señor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,923
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1491 Post(s)
Liked 1,090 Times
in
638 Posts
Rowdy farm dogs, constant winds, gravel roads that surprisingly turn to sand pits (or worse, wet fatty clay), and tornados are all to be expected. Just last night, a tornado formed a mile or so down the road from here, and wiped out a YMCA and some homes. All but the tornados, which I'm not sure can be pedaled away from, are part of my calculations....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7h6zdlTTeA
(not my video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7h6zdlTTeA
(not my video)
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: south kansas america
Posts: 1,910
Bikes: too many
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 411 Post(s)
Liked 234 Times
in
140 Posts
You didn't jinx me... lots of locals just shrug when the local news warns them about tornados and such, but I've had enough close calls that we (my family and I) take them seriously.
Likes For uncle uncle:
#41
Palmer
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 8,625
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, Alex Moulton AM, Dahon Curl
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1668 Post(s)
Liked 1,821 Times
in
1,059 Posts
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
I'm surprised no one has suggested one of these for Kansas. They have a good track record of dealing with tornados unless a house were to fall on the rider . . .
Likes For bikemig:
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: The Urban Shores Of Michigami
Posts: 1,749
Bikes: ........................................ .....Holdsworth "Special"..... .......Falcon "Special".......... .........Miyata 912........... ........................................
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 702 Post(s)
Liked 672 Times
in
420 Posts
5 speed FW for me.
If climbing is part of your routine, think about the frame. A well built, tight frame will climb better than a floppy frame.
If climbing is part of your routine, think about the frame. A well built, tight frame will climb better than a floppy frame.
#45
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,194
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Liked 1,296 Times
in
866 Posts
I've also used an O-ring to close off the opening left by removing the smallest externally-threaded cog from a Shimano Dura-Ace or Sante 7s freewheel.
Was yours also a modified 7s unit, or did you perhaps mean ...Suntour?
For hubs like certain vintages of Phil Wood where the (fixed) 5s axle spacing may not allow even an Ultra-6 freewheel to quite fit in the space, I built a 13-24t five-speed Uniglide freewheel to allow tight-enough ratios and sufficient range for spirited riding here in the foothills.
Combined with a 52-36t chainset, it achieves the same low gear ratio as 42-28t and has a decent 52-13t top gear (shown below).
On most 5s-era bikes, I have no trouble re-spacing the axle to 122m to accomodate a standard-spaced 6s freewheel. Atom/Normandy hubs in particular need only the slightest of spacer width changes to accommodate standard 6s Shimano freewheels, as long as the frame isn't one with inwardly-protruding seatstay ends (though going from a 14t to 13t top cog really improves the clearance there).
Clearance for inwardly-protruding axle stop or claw hanger hardware can usually be achieved using a Dremel where needed (on bikes without screw adjusters and/or without integral derailer hangers). Single axle stops are best moved to the left dropout (only one is really needed) and claw mounts serve as an axle stop (so no discreet stop is needed).
Last edited by dddd; 05-01-22 at 10:23 AM.
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1857 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
I have converted my 2x5 UO-8 to 2x6 (superb 45-42/13-15-17-20-23-26 half-step), using a Shimano "ultra-width" freewheel, because with half step, or even 1.5 step, I don't get both the range and tight ratio progression I want on 2x5.
I did the same with the 1959 Capo (very nice 46-38/13-15-17-19-22-25 1.5-step), using a standard-width Regina America freewheel
My Bianchi was already 2x6 (52-42/13-23, too high for my tastes), so I simply changed the 2x6 sizes to 50-42/14-16-18-20-23-26, another very nice 1.5 step.
I am leaning toward keeping the "keep it original" Capo Sieger as a 2x5, leaning toward 49-45/14-16-19-23-26 or, if the Gran Sport will handle it (iffy!), 14-17-20-24-28. (45T is the smallest chainring the period-correct 3-piece 3x6 bolt Simplex spider adaptor will accommodate.)
The mountain bike was sold as a 3x6. I bought it used as a 3x7, and it is now a very satisfactory 3x8: 46-38-24 / 12-13-15-17-19-21-24-28. It does NOT have too many gears, Grant!
I did the same with the 1959 Capo (very nice 46-38/13-15-17-19-22-25 1.5-step), using a standard-width Regina America freewheel
My Bianchi was already 2x6 (52-42/13-23, too high for my tastes), so I simply changed the 2x6 sizes to 50-42/14-16-18-20-23-26, another very nice 1.5 step.
I am leaning toward keeping the "keep it original" Capo Sieger as a 2x5, leaning toward 49-45/14-16-19-23-26 or, if the Gran Sport will handle it (iffy!), 14-17-20-24-28. (45T is the smallest chainring the period-correct 3-piece 3x6 bolt Simplex spider adaptor will accommodate.)
The mountain bike was sold as a 3x6. I bought it used as a 3x7, and it is now a very satisfactory 3x8: 46-38-24 / 12-13-15-17-19-21-24-28. It does NOT have too many gears, Grant!
Any experience with this size on standard-cage derailleurs?
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1857 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,878
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1857 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times
in
506 Posts
I don't think Sheldon would be afraid to update to something more modern. Mind you it really depends on the riding your doing. For some of us, like me, the most vintage part of the bike, is the engine.... Rather then swapping out the freewheel, I would rather run a different chainring, something like a 46/32 or even a 42/30 and leave the rear mechanism the way it is....
#49
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,786
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3588 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
I kinda want your specifics, as in "I'd still ride 5 speeds, with a Shimano 14-28 freewheel, and KMC Z6 speed chain, because I'm notoriously thrifty and it's a pancake topography here". Or, "I'm going to spread the chainstays, and slip a 7 speed IRD 12-32 in there, with an 8 speed SRAM PC-830 chain, because I'm all about Minimal Gains". Like that. What do you got?
More sprockets means closer spacing between available gears, allowing you to keep your pedal RPM within a narrower range of cadences.
#50
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,798
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1393 Post(s)
Liked 1,325 Times
in
837 Posts
John, I notice you do not have any 28 tooth big cogs on the Capos, nor any Simplex Prestige. I'm working on a 1970s bike trying to use a Simplex Prestige rear mech on its own claw, which is not "asploded," with that 14/28. It seems like the Prestige body (black with a red nameplate on the parallellogram) is just not long enough to accommodate the 28 teeth. Have you tried those derailleurs on your bikes? it seems like the dividing line might even be 24 teeth! The pivots seem sluggish, but I don't think that's the whole problem.
Any experience with this size on standard-cage derailleurs?
Any experience with this size on standard-cage derailleurs?
My own UO-8 has a short cage SunTour Cyclone II, the Bianchi has its original (short-cage) Campag. NR, and the Capos have various short-cage Campags. I know the Cyclone II won't go beyond 26T, and the 1980 NR has to be set up "just right" to hit 28, which is why I have always self-limited to 26T with it. When I had the Cyclone on my now-deceased (cracked chainstay) UO-8 commuter, I ran 52-42 up front, because that's what I had on hand, with 16-18-21-24-26 (again, no 28) in back. That's when I learned that, although I am not at all into really high top gears, I do want something above 90 gear-inches -- I wound out in traffic too many times with 52/16 = 88 gear inches. That extra 5 to 10 percent to the mid-90s is exactly what I need.
I did have very good luck with a lowly short-cage SunTour V-Luxe on a 52-42 / 14-16-18-21-24-28 setup, which adds a nice 40-gear-inch low to the classic 52-42/14-24 road racing setup.
I am currently hoping against hope that I can somehow get my "keep it original-ish" 1960 Capo Sieger's OEM Campag. GS to work with 49-45 / 14-17-20-24-28. If not, I'll tighten up to 14-16-19-23-26.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069