ISO/WTB Suntour Ultra 7 freewheel
07-24-22, 09:10 AM
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ISO/WTB Suntour Ultra 7 freewheel
I am looking for a Suntour Ultra 7 freewheel, preferably with a 28T - either 13-28 or 14-28. English or ISO thread. Thanks for looking!
Andy
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07-24-22, 12:20 PM
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Unless you are looking specifically for a Suntour, ultra 7 became the standard spacing for most 7s freewheels.
-j
-j
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07-24-22, 01:40 PM
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What were the 8 speed free wheels spaced?
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07-24-22, 02:51 PM
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07-24-22, 03:06 PM
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Which, with friction wouldn't really matter, I presume.
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07-24-22, 03:42 PM
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Not knowing the OP's shifters, we're flying blind. I'll assume he knows what he wants.
I'm also assuming that 7 speed Ultra is the same as the Alpha model freewheels? Inquiring minds...
I'm also assuming that 7 speed Ultra is the same as the Alpha model freewheels? Inquiring minds...
07-24-22, 06:03 PM
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@75Iechamp I could probably fix you up.....I have a bunch of good NWN bodies, spacers for Ultra-7, and a heap of cogs. Get back to me a first ,and perhaps, a second choice for your ideal tooth count by position. I will get back to you with what I can provide and a shipped price. PM or Quick Reply as you wish.
FWIW, I run Ultra-7 on frames spaced at 126 mm.
Dean
FWIW, I run Ultra-7 on frames spaced at 126 mm.
Dean
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07-24-22, 06:28 PM
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7-speed cog spacing varied between manufacturers. The spacing on a 7-speed Suntour would not be identical to, let's say, a Regina America 7-speed.
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07-25-22, 03:06 PM
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The 7s work on 126 OLD but freewheel bodies do not have a uniform width (they vary a bit by manufacturer). That means that if installing a 7 speed freewheel on a bike for the first time, you may have have to tweak the drive side spacers a bit (and perhaps redish the wheel a tad) so that the chain doesn't rub the stay. If that is a problem, a quick fix is to insert a 1 mm spacer on the drive side and call it a day. Yes the wheel won't be perfectly centered but you'll still be able to ride it just fine.
07-25-22, 05:54 PM
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Freewheel Body Widths
Some Guestimated charts that I found online:
From Sheldon Brown RIP
Real life examples. I checked a milk crate full of freewheels and found the widths all over the place. Note: many freewheels have a 1mm to 2mm recess in the rear so you can measure that and subtract it from the width.
IRD used to publish the actual widths of their freewheels. The body widths on their most recent version, the Cyclone Mk 1 run wide and the 5 speed FWs use a 6 speed body minus the outer sprocket so you may as well buy their 6 speed! Rather ingenuous...
IRD Cyclone Mk 1 7 speed FW.
To muddy the water further, there was no REAL standard for the "D" width dimension on hubs. Suntour specified "More Than 36mm" "D" width. Some 7 speed FWs are almost 36mm wide!!! A 2mm recess gives you 34mm from the hub shoulder to the end of the axle. Ideally you should have about 4mm of clearance from the end of the FW body to the end of the axle.
Where this becomes a problem is when shifting off of the small sprocket, the chain can catch on the inside bottom of the seat stay. A fast and dirty fix is to add some spacers to the end of the axle but that throws the wheel dish off plus the wheel is no longer aligned with the dropouts.
A better solution is to file some clearance on the bottom of the seat stay. We did that on a lot of the better bikes that we sold plus I did it on all of the frames that I built.
Attn: Pastor Bob pastorbobnlnh
verktyg
From Sheldon Brown RIP
Real life examples. I checked a milk crate full of freewheels and found the widths all over the place. Note: many freewheels have a 1mm to 2mm recess in the rear so you can measure that and subtract it from the width.
IRD used to publish the actual widths of their freewheels. The body widths on their most recent version, the Cyclone Mk 1 run wide and the 5 speed FWs use a 6 speed body minus the outer sprocket so you may as well buy their 6 speed! Rather ingenuous...
IRD Cyclone Mk 1 7 speed FW.
To muddy the water further, there was no REAL standard for the "D" width dimension on hubs. Suntour specified "More Than 36mm" "D" width. Some 7 speed FWs are almost 36mm wide!!! A 2mm recess gives you 34mm from the hub shoulder to the end of the axle. Ideally you should have about 4mm of clearance from the end of the FW body to the end of the axle.
Where this becomes a problem is when shifting off of the small sprocket, the chain can catch on the inside bottom of the seat stay. A fast and dirty fix is to add some spacers to the end of the axle but that throws the wheel dish off plus the wheel is no longer aligned with the dropouts.
A better solution is to file some clearance on the bottom of the seat stay. We did that on a lot of the better bikes that we sold plus I did it on all of the frames that I built.
Attn: Pastor Bob pastorbobnlnh
verktyg
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Last edited by verktyg; 07-25-22 at 06:26 PM.
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07-28-22, 07:24 PM
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Found one, thanks all!
