Saddle Tripper 

Hi. I am wrapping up a bicycle build for my son. I don’t have a reference to what cantilever brakes look like on a Quadra fork. Seems like I am missing something or do not have correct brakes for this. Can someone give me some guidance? Do I need a barrel adjuster for example on the fork or from the headset?

or is the only application a V-brake?

? This was a mock up using old cables. Planning to replace the short cable in the photo too.

ClydeClydeson

It looks generally correct.

Two things - 1. Obviously you need brake pads. THose brakes require smooth post style...
example...Bikeman: Jagwire Mountain Pro Cantilever Brake Pads, Black

2. The round bit on the cable 'link wire' needs to be set lower so the brake can be actuated without the round thing hitting the cable stop on the fork.
You can get a better range of adjustment by either (a) removing the grey tube from the link wire and making your own with a segment of brake cable housing, or (b) by getting a separate straddle cable - Bikeman: Dia-Compe E-Z-R Single-End Straddle Wire (986, 987) with handle for easy release, Each - and a cable yoke - Dia-Compe 1242 Triangular Cable Carrier Silver | Bikeparts.Com. THis is a slightly more complicated setup, but allows more freedom.
There are also many different lengths of link wire assemblies available. Generally speaking, the shorter the link wire, and closer the link wire is to the tire, the stronger the brakes will be for a given amount of force at the lever.

Here's some further reading:
About Bicycle Brakes with Brazed-on Fittings (sheldonbrown.com)

Saddle Tripper 

Understood - good to know I can shorten the cable housing. That will do for now.

( yeah brake shoes on the brakes may help but just a little

appreciate your help!!

Schweinhund

On the bridge you're using now? You can't. the cable and housing on the opposite side have to be equal length. and the cable is set length you can't shorten it. You have to use a straddle for what you have going on, or switch to v-brakes and eliminate the hanger.

alcjphil

The problem with a straddle wire is that if the brake cable breaks, the straddle wire will drop down onto the tire and very possibly lock up the front wheel

ClydeClydeson

Saddle Tripper I was wrong - there is no way to switch out the tube on the link wire assembly you have. It was a trick I used on a previous version (c. 1990) of Shimano link wires that were a major nuisance to get set up properly - there were these colour-coded plastic jigs that were supposed to simplify brake setup, but were just a major PITA, but you could cut a length of cable housing to essentially turn the link wire assembly into the more modern one that you have.

With the style you have, the length is fixed and to change lengths you need to buy a different length of link wire.

V brakes are way simpler to set up - no thought necessary to link wire or straddle cable/yoke arrangement. The only issue is that OP would need to swap brake levers to long-pull style, unless running skinny tires and then mini-Vs, which are compatible with the same levers as canti brakes, can be used

ClydeClydeson

Theoretically this was an issue, so companies came up with the far-inferior link-wire arrangement, but in practice, if your equipment was in good nick and properly put together (ie all bolts tight) it almost never happened in practice.

Schweinhund

So get a straddle that won't allow that, lol.
it's both captured and has set screws for the crossover cable
Tektro

Schweinhund

They may work as is, worth a try.

ClydeClydeson

It's been tried. The combination of canti or 'short pull' levers with full length V brakes is not a good match. You either have problems with rubbing brakes or with the levers bottoming out before adequate stopping force occurs. V brake levers are too common to bother trying to kludge together a crap setup.

alcjphil

You are correct, this almost never happened in practice, and you could install a reflector bracket that would catch the straddle cable before it touched the tire

maddog34

There are THREE lengths of that special stirrup cable available(the short length with the lead ends)... 80, 90, and 100mm. Measure yours. If it.s not the 80mm version, Go to a Co-op,bike recycler and locate an 80mm one. trim the gray tube to match it or just use the entire 80mm donor stirrup...

You will need to install the Brake Pads before setting a cable adjustment.. the short gray casing is SET TO MATCH THE STIRRUP CABLE YOU HAVE.. DO NOT CUT THAT TUBE or your brake arms will not be centered.

the brake arms need to be at a Vertical Position once the pads are installed, or slightly tilted to the outside of the fork, when the pads contact the rim.
Setting Cantilever brake pads is a hassle. make sure they are aligned to the rim and are both evenly extended from the arms.

there are any number of vids online explaining the procedure... i highly advise watching a few.

Good luck.
PS.. there are other, more ADJUSTABLE stirrup setups available.. ask the shop folks to show you some.. CX riders use a lot of canti brake setups.. the UPDATED setups will end your old, OUTDATED cable setup issue quickly.

Russ Roth

You missed the lack of pads. Once the pads are installed and the brakes moved an appropriate distance from the wheel there will be plenty of space. Notice the straddle cable is at a 70ish degree angle but set up properly the cable shouldn't have less than a 90* angle when braking for optimal braking power.

Schweinhund

No, I didn't.
Missing pads are part of the reason I suggested a set of vbrakes.
Because for 20 bucks, these are better than the cantilever style brakes he has
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145012273501?

Ironfish653

Interesting that only Shimano uses the link-wire; where Avid, Tektro, Paul's, et. al. continued to use separate straddle cables and carriers.

I think; based on a couple decades in Assembly plants; that the Shimano arrangement is primarily to simplify assembly on the production line, or during PDI (pre-delivery inspection) with the tube and fixed link-wire, everything only goes together a certain way, with a single point of adjustment. Saves a lot of time that way, and time savings is cost savings.

Ironfish653

You should get the pads installed first, before you try to set the cables.
The pads will set the position of the brake arms, which will then dictate the cable runs.
I generally try to get the pads set so that the lower arm (from the mounting post to the pad slots) is roughly parallel to the fork, which brings the straddle cables pretty close to the "ideal" 45* angle without a whole lot of extra fussing around.
Your brakes look like they ought to work, once the pads are on, and the arms correctly located.

* One tip: when you go to set the pads and center the arms, pull the tires off and set the brakes on the bare rim. Things like setting the toe-in, pad height, and making sure the arms are even side-to-side, are way easier to do without the tire in the way, especially on a fork where clearance is limited.

Saddle Tripper 

I used short pull (DA) brake levers on this bike because that’s what I had. I was able to cobble together these LX cantilever brakes; and set the pads to the rim. The brakes pull fine- but could be better…. Somewhat squishy but could be worse. The levers don’t bottom out.

I understand that V brakes would be softer and the brake levers bottom out - so with this set up for now it’s adequate. Not craving great, but adequate.

my son wanted the drop bars and bar end shifters. I need to learn a lot more about brakes and levers - and see if there is a better set up for drop bars in an older mountain bike. Here are a couple pictures- I used old XT derailleurs, a crankset that was sitting on a shelf for 8 or so years, a 2000 Specialized 23” RockHopper frame, and LX brakes from my old Trek. It was his birthday present - he can’t afford a new bike and always got the hand me downs.

I enjoy this. my next project is a 1996 (maybe 1995) Bianchi Cross Prject/. The down tube height was fine… but the top tube always felt short for my long back. And the LBS I didn’t know too well mixed and matched the brifters with S-105 and 600. Wasn’t happy about that with the 105 crankset and low end cantilever brakes. For the money then they cut corners when I picked it up and didn’t know better.

they added a really long stem to the short frame and lifted it way high too. Oversized cheap quill stem looked weird. Forced fit. But the frame has promise abd will need advice here as I learn the ins and outs. Thank you for the help and advice/. Tom


Zoom shock seat post, NOS Quadra fork, 1993 Trek 950/970 Matrix rims with LX hubs, Ritchey HS, bars and stem, XT derailleurs, DA brake levers, LX cantilevered brakes, 7 speed triple, DA bar end shifters, 2000 RockHopper 23” ProComp A1 frame ( named StumpHunter for my sons’’ name on his bike - Hunter). Two stage Nason base coat/clearcoat paint, Brooks Pro seat, leather handlebar wrap, Wellgo pedals, added Schwalbe “Pickup” tires… not for performance but ruggedness and varied riding. Stuff I had laying around but not the seat and post.

t2p

are the calipers in the picture the calipers you plan to use ?

if so - they don’t appear to be a matched set ? ... maybe it’s my eyes

???

Saddle Tripper 

Yeah, they are both the same calipers.

t2p

maybe this will assist

Ironfish653

Ah, I see, this is a drop bar conversion (nice job on the rebuild, btw; I like that color!)

t2p picture shows a pretty good setup: moving the pads out on their posts like he has will spread the arms and give you a wider straddle angle, which should produce more "power" at the rim.

Might take a little bit of back-and-forth to get it dialed in the way you want, especially since you're dealing with a fixed link-wire instead of a separate straddle cable

Saddle Tripper 

[QUOTE=Ironfish653;22858749]Ah, I see, this is a drop bar conversion (nice job on the rebuild, btw; I like that color!/QUOTE

My son texted me a green he wanted. So I went to NAPA and looked at their color chips. Using the color on my phone he texted —- we got close. Chose the lighter shade than a darker shade when I had to choose/. The red accents and decals help the green along too. The Swordfish brand crankset wouldn’t have been my first color choice with the white crank arms/// but it’s fine and what I had. Price was right.

Saddle Tripper 

perfect. Thank you.