2011 Madone 5.5 Project Bike
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2011 Madone 5.5 Project Bike
I an opportunity to pickup a 2011 Madone 5.5 frame for $100 thinking it would be a fun project bike. I have 2006 Madone 5.2 and thought I could put the Ultegra components on from that bike on the newer frame. Any thoughts? Are they compatible?
I would also need to get a new BB and thought a Token BB3274 would be a good choice. What are your thoughts on that BB? Any experience with that?
BTW the 06 Madone is being replaced due to a car vs bike incident. Everyone survived but the frame.
Thanks for your Suggestions!
T
I would also need to get a new BB and thought a Token BB3274 would be a good choice. What are your thoughts on that BB? Any experience with that?
BTW the 06 Madone is being replaced due to a car vs bike incident. Everyone survived but the frame.
Thanks for your Suggestions!
T
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Glad to hear that riders didn't suffer in the incident (and I rarely call a bike crash an accident). Been there and did that a few times myself (walking home with the bike on one's shoulder gives one a lot of time to reconstruct the incident and see how they contributed to the crash).
While I have worked in Trek shops I never bothered to do the homework of comparing model year versions and how much remained the same or were deferent WRT swapping over parts. The BB shell, head tube and steerer, brake caliper spec, cable routing and adjusters could all be deferent enough to not play nice. Also know that in 2001 tire widths and the frame clearances were pretty tight. If you are hoping to run 28mm tires or wide rims do that check before spending $. I will also suggest having the 2001 frame and fork inspected by someone who knows about carbon and its failure modes before your $ leaves your hands. Andy
While I have worked in Trek shops I never bothered to do the homework of comparing model year versions and how much remained the same or were deferent WRT swapping over parts. The BB shell, head tube and steerer, brake caliper spec, cable routing and adjusters could all be deferent enough to not play nice. Also know that in 2001 tire widths and the frame clearances were pretty tight. If you are hoping to run 28mm tires or wide rims do that check before spending $. I will also suggest having the 2001 frame and fork inspected by someone who knows about carbon and its failure modes before your $ leaves your hands. Andy
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Glad to hear that riders didn't suffer in the incident (and I rarely call a bike crash an accident). Been there and did that a few times myself (walking home with the bike on one's shoulder gives one a lot of time to reconstruct the incident and see how they contributed to the crash).
While I have worked in Trek shops I never bothered to do the homework of comparing model year versions and how much remained the same or were deferent WRT swapping over parts. The BB shell, head tube and steerer, brake caliper spec, cable routing and adjusters could all be deferent enough to not play nice. Also know that in 2001 tire widths and the frame clearances were pretty tight. If you are hoping to run 28mm tires or wide rims do that check before spending $. I will also suggest having the 2001 frame and fork inspected by someone who knows about carbon and its failure modes before your $ leaves your hands. Andy
While I have worked in Trek shops I never bothered to do the homework of comparing model year versions and how much remained the same or were deferent WRT swapping over parts. The BB shell, head tube and steerer, brake caliper spec, cable routing and adjusters could all be deferent enough to not play nice. Also know that in 2001 tire widths and the frame clearances were pretty tight. If you are hoping to run 28mm tires or wide rims do that check before spending $. I will also suggest having the 2001 frame and fork inspected by someone who knows about carbon and its failure modes before your $ leaves your hands. Andy
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Glad to hear that riders didn't suffer in the incident (and I rarely call a bike crash an accident). Been there and did that a few times myself (walking home with the bike on one's shoulder gives one a lot of time to reconstruct the incident and see how they contributed to the crash).
While I have worked in Trek shops I never bothered to do the homework of comparing model year versions and how much remained the same or were deferent WRT swapping over parts. The BB shell, head tube and steerer, brake caliper spec, cable routing and adjusters could all be deferent enough to not play nice. Also know that in 2001 tire widths and the frame clearances were pretty tight. If you are hoping to run 28mm tires or wide rims do that check before spending $. I will also suggest having the 2001 frame and fork inspected by someone who knows about carbon and its failure modes before your $ leaves your hands. Andy
While I have worked in Trek shops I never bothered to do the homework of comparing model year versions and how much remained the same or were deferent WRT swapping over parts. The BB shell, head tube and steerer, brake caliper spec, cable routing and adjusters could all be deferent enough to not play nice. Also know that in 2001 tire widths and the frame clearances were pretty tight. If you are hoping to run 28mm tires or wide rims do that check before spending $. I will also suggest having the 2001 frame and fork inspected by someone who knows about carbon and its failure modes before your $ leaves your hands. Andy
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Back on topic..
With Trek the changes would mainly be to the BB, seatpost and headtube areas. Trek seems to tweak these parts of the frame regularly.
2011 was still in the middle of the 10 speed era for Shimano race level groups. Not much had really changed that would affect fitment of parts. Derailleurs were the same, Shimano Shadow RD weren't in road groups yet. Brakes were still the same since wheels mainly still used rims in the 20-22mm outside width. Compact cranks were just beginning to appear so 53/39 or so, was still expected.
So, if the frame came with fork, headset and seatmast, most parts should be OK. You seem to have the BB figured out.
With Trek the changes would mainly be to the BB, seatpost and headtube areas. Trek seems to tweak these parts of the frame regularly.
2011 was still in the middle of the 10 speed era for Shimano race level groups. Not much had really changed that would affect fitment of parts. Derailleurs were the same, Shimano Shadow RD weren't in road groups yet. Brakes were still the same since wheels mainly still used rims in the 20-22mm outside width. Compact cranks were just beginning to appear so 53/39 or so, was still expected.
So, if the frame came with fork, headset and seatmast, most parts should be OK. You seem to have the BB figured out.
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28 mm tires will definitely clear the 2011 frame, but if you're using narrower 2006-era rims, they'll be happier with 25s or 26s.
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And that brings up an issue. If your old Madone was a 2006, it probably has those infamous paired spoke wheels. I had those on my 2007 Pilot and the rear wheel developed cracks at 4000 miles. Check the rear wheel spoke holes with a magnifying glass. They are well known for cracks. If you are very lightweight, then maybe they're OK. If so, they're 14mm internal width and the 28mm tires will go on just fine.
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If the BB has bearings installed, check their part number before buying BB parts. I have the same model year madone and I had to install oversized bearings after couple of years. No problems after that. The oversized bearings have a diameter of 0.1mm larger for a snug fit. Trek at one time would rework the BB shell to bring it back into tolerance, however I believe they’ve given that practice up.
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Thanks all for the suggestions and thoughts. I'm gonna give it a go.
It will be interesting to see how the old components interchange the new frame. Couple of the grommets are missing but I think I can 3D print some replacements (not seeing those parts readily available).
Great suggestion on wheels. I do want to try 28s for some long rides.
Will be fun to see how a newer BB works out.
It will be interesting to see how the old components interchange the new frame. Couple of the grommets are missing but I think I can 3D print some replacements (not seeing those parts readily available).
Great suggestion on wheels. I do want to try 28s for some long rides.
Will be fun to see how a newer BB works out.
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Thanks all for the suggestions and thoughts. I'm gonna give it a go.
It will be interesting to see how the old components interchange the new frame. Couple of the grommets are missing but I think I can 3D print some replacements (not seeing those parts readily available).
Great suggestion on wheels. I do want to try 28s for some long rides.
Will be fun to see how a newer BB works out.
It will be interesting to see how the old components interchange the new frame. Couple of the grommets are missing but I think I can 3D print some replacements (not seeing those parts readily available).
Great suggestion on wheels. I do want to try 28s for some long rides.
Will be fun to see how a newer BB works out.
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Thanks all for the suggestions and thoughts. I'm gonna give it a go.
It will be interesting to see how the old components interchange the new frame. Couple of the grommets are missing but I think I can 3D print some replacements (not seeing those parts readily available).
Great suggestion on wheels. I do want to try 28s for some long rides.
Will be fun to see how a newer BB works out.
It will be interesting to see how the old components interchange the new frame. Couple of the grommets are missing but I think I can 3D print some replacements (not seeing those parts readily available).
Great suggestion on wheels. I do want to try 28s for some long rides.
Will be fun to see how a newer BB works out.

PS. With time the tire will stretch and expand about 1 mm width each side.
Last edited by biker128pedal; 12-02-22 at 02:44 PM.
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The only other oddball item on a Madone of that generation is the seat mast (not a seat post). There were different mast lengths and you could also trim them, depending on your needs (there's up and down adjustment, but it's not as much as a typical seat post). If your inseam is more than a few inches longer than the previous owner, you might need to find a longer mast.
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The only other oddball item on a Madone of that generation is the seat mast (not a seat post). There were different mast lengths and you could also trim them, depending on your needs (there's up and down adjustment, but it's not as much as a typical seat post). If your inseam is more than a few inches longer than the previous owner, you might need to find a longer mast.