Bar end shifter modification
#1
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Bar end shifter modification
I recently swapped out my 10 speed cassette to get lower gearing. Now my old 9 speed friction shifter won't clear the entire range (doesn't get to highest gears). Before I buy a replacement shifter I'm wondering if it's possible to modify the old one to get more cable range.
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I recently swapped out my 10 speed cassette to get lower gearing. Now my old 9 speed friction shifter won't clear the entire range (doesn't get to highest gears). Before I buy a replacement shifter I'm wondering if it's possible to modify the old one to get more cable range.
when you say you "swapped out the cassette" what did you swap it out in favor of ? another 10 speed cassette with higher tooth count ?
However - you might be right, your old shifter probably does not have the cable take up range to reach the low gears on the large rear cog.
make sure the cable is properly adjusted when on the small cog so as to give you the maximum cable take up range.
there is a modification that might work. But need more info first so as to prevent 100+ "helpful" posts based on massive speculation.
help us, help you
/markp
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#3
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There is not enough info here to properly answer your question, we'd need at least part / model numbers and more detail.
when you say you "swapped out the cassette" what did you swap it out in favor of ? another 10 speed cassette with higher tooth count ?
However - you might be right, your old shifter probably does not have the cable take up range to reach the low gears on the large rear cog.
make sure the cable is properly adjusted when on the small cog so as to give you the maximum cable take up range.
there is a modification that might work. But need more info first so as to prevent 100+ "helpful" posts based on massive speculation.
help us, help you
/markp
when you say you "swapped out the cassette" what did you swap it out in favor of ? another 10 speed cassette with higher tooth count ?
However - you might be right, your old shifter probably does not have the cable take up range to reach the low gears on the large rear cog.
make sure the cable is properly adjusted when on the small cog so as to give you the maximum cable take up range.
there is a modification that might work. But need more info first so as to prevent 100+ "helpful" posts based on massive speculation.
help us, help you
/markp
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Fair enough! Yes, swapped 10 speed cassette with another 10 speed going from 38 lowest gear to 46. If I adjust for highest gear (11) I don't have enough pull to get to the 46. I don't really care about the highest gears so it's now adjusted to be able to reach the 46. Seems like a few mm more would get me there!
Take your shifter and carefully observe where the cable is on the little track on the lever's take up drum. Mark with sharpie.
then mix up some epoxy or JB weld and put a little dab right at that spot where the lever goes to the low gear position. Use a toothpick to apply it. Doing this gives you a couple extra mm of take up right at the end of the lever travel. Shape with a small file if necessary.
Interested to know if this works for you.
/markp
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What happens if you bypass the shifter and just pull the cable? That would isolate a shifter issue from any other problem.
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#6
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Alright, so here is a hack. I will prolly be banned from the forum for posting this but here's what you can do. 36 to 46 is a big jump and you need a little more cable pull.
Take your shifter and carefully observe where the cable is on the little track on the lever's take up drum. Mark with sharpie.
then mix up some epoxy or JB weld and put a little dab right at that spot where the lever goes to the low gear position. Use a toothpick to apply it. Doing this gives you a couple extra mm of take up right at the end of the lever travel. Shape with a small file if necessary.
Interested to know if this works for you.
/markp
Take your shifter and carefully observe where the cable is on the little track on the lever's take up drum. Mark with sharpie.
then mix up some epoxy or JB weld and put a little dab right at that spot where the lever goes to the low gear position. Use a toothpick to apply it. Doing this gives you a couple extra mm of take up right at the end of the lever travel. Shape with a small file if necessary.
Interested to know if this works for you.
/markp
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Also, IIRC a 10 speed cassette is 1mm narrower than a 9 speed so cable pull should be adequate.
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as stated above, make absolutely sure that the derailleur limit screws are adjusted so that it actually will shift onto that low gear.
and adjust the cable properly before you add your epoxy "bump"
get all the pieces working in your favor.
No warranty expressed or implied.
/markp
and adjust the cable properly before you add your epoxy "bump"
get all the pieces working in your favor.
No warranty expressed or implied.
/markp
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Alright, so here is a hack. I will prolly be banned from the forum for posting this but here's what you can do. 36 to 46 is a big jump and you need a little more cable pull.
Take your shifter and carefully observe where the cable is on the little track on the lever's take up drum. Mark with sharpie.
then mix up some epoxy or JB weld and put a little dab right at that spot where the lever goes to the low gear position. Use a toothpick to apply it. Doing this gives you a couple extra mm of take up right at the end of the lever travel. Shape with a small file if necessary.
Interested to know if this works for you.
/markp
Take your shifter and carefully observe where the cable is on the little track on the lever's take up drum. Mark with sharpie.
then mix up some epoxy or JB weld and put a little dab right at that spot where the lever goes to the low gear position. Use a toothpick to apply it. Doing this gives you a couple extra mm of take up right at the end of the lever travel. Shape with a small file if necessary.
Interested to know if this works for you.
/markp
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Campagnolo made a lever (shown below) that had a large(r) drum on the RH lever for more cable take up - presumeably for wide range setups.
This is a rare part.
/markp
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some guys shave the top of the barend pod to allow the shifter to pull further up. i found this other post on google groups where they friction fit a brass bar into the channel of the barend shifter to increase the diameter for more pull ( they modified both barendshifters and thumbshifters) :
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A properly adjusted 9 speed (or for that matter, 8 speed) friction shifter should be easily able to shift a ten speed cassette, as it is not wider.
Something is not adjusted properly.
Did you install an RD capable of shifting a cog that large? If not, that or other suggestions above may be your issue.
Something is not adjusted properly.
Did you install an RD capable of shifting a cog that large? If not, that or other suggestions above may be your issue.
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DON'T MODIFY YOUR SHIFTER!
If it shifted 10 speed before, changing to a different cog size should not change that. The diameter of the cogs has nothing to do with lateral movement of the derailleur and the amount of cable needed to do so.
Did you change derailleurs?
If it shifted 10 speed before, changing to a different cog size should not change that. The diameter of the cogs has nothing to do with lateral movement of the derailleur and the amount of cable needed to do so.
Did you change derailleurs?
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a 10 sp. cassette has the SAME STACK HEIGHT as a 9 sp. Cassette.. what is happening is the Derailleur cage is not able to freely push the chain toward the Low gear position because it's now hitting the larger gear's face.
you need to install a hanger extension (AKA: Wolf Tooth) and check your cable for any slack when it's in the Smallest, high gear position, then adjust that cable tension to eliminate any slack whatsoever... the derailleur should move as soon as the shifter is moved from the "High Gear" position...
quit thinking the shifter is the issue... look at what was CHANGED (low gear cog diameter/tooth count) and it's relationship to the DERAILLEUR.
you need to install a hanger extension (AKA: Wolf Tooth) and check your cable for any slack when it's in the Smallest, high gear position, then adjust that cable tension to eliminate any slack whatsoever... the derailleur should move as soon as the shifter is moved from the "High Gear" position...
quit thinking the shifter is the issue... look at what was CHANGED (low gear cog diameter/tooth count) and it's relationship to the DERAILLEUR.
Last edited by maddog34; 05-20-23 at 11:18 AM.
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#18
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Update: didn't work. These were all great ideas but neither the JB weld spot or grinding back the shifter pod gives enough cable pull. I did fail to mention that when I replaced the cassette I also replaced the derailleur with a long cage (don't beat me up). I threw in the towel and ordered a microshift 10 speed shifter. These were all great ideas, thanks!
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Update: didn't work. These were all great ideas but neither the JB weld spot or grinding back the shifter pod gives enough cable pull. I did fail to mention that when I replaced the cassette I also replaced the derailleur with a long cage (don't beat me up). I threw in the towel and ordered a microshift 10 speed shifter. These were all great ideas, thanks!
You probably have one of the newer "11 speed" rear derailleurs that require much more cable pull than older ones. That 10 speed Microshift is going to have the exact same shape as your current shifter, and the exact same problem. For those shifters you need to stick with derailleurs based on Shimano road 6-10 or mtb 6-9 speed.
This is why I asked if you changed derailleurs.
#20
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That probably won't work either.
You probably have one of the newer "11 speed" rear derailleurs that require much more cable pull than older ones. That 10 speed Microshift is going to have the exact same shape as your current shifter, and the exact same problem. For those shifters you need to stick with derailleurs based on Shimano road 6-10 or mtb 6-9 speed.
This is why I asked if you changed derailleurs.
You probably have one of the newer "11 speed" rear derailleurs that require much more cable pull than older ones. That 10 speed Microshift is going to have the exact same shape as your current shifter, and the exact same problem. For those shifters you need to stick with derailleurs based on Shimano road 6-10 or mtb 6-9 speed.
This is why I asked if you changed derailleurs.
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This is why you are having problems. The new cassette is not the cause of your difficulties. Unless the Microsoft shifter you ordered is compatible with the longer cable pull requirements of Shimano Dynasys rear derailleurs your problem will persist
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Oh.
forgot to tell you I put a new dee-railer on there too.
23 replies to an incomplete problem statement
what a waste of time
don't forget to check the air in the tires.
/markp
forgot to tell you I put a new dee-railer on there too.
23 replies to an incomplete problem statement
what a waste of time
don't forget to check the air in the tires.
/markp
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