Your gearing
#51
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What's more important than anything is to race the gear that you're in. People who use smaller gears have to race differently than those who run larger gears. In a Wednesday night points race at Dick Lane, you'll see everything from 90-102 in the A race with no direct correlation as to which gear performs better. I've been running a relatively big gear for my timed events this year, and sometimes I get lazy and leave it on for the next few weeks. In that situation, I just have to adjust and race accordingly. I'd say just try a bunch of different gears and ride whatever feels good.
#52
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Gears
Want to know which one is your next step up? I made this handy table.
All the possible combinations with 44-56 chainrings and cogs from 12 thru 18.
I have one printed and I circled the gear combinations I use.
50x15 for most trainings and 48x14 for racing (333m track)
I like it because I can see the equivalences and overlaps of the gears.
Also, look on the table to the right for the exact nominal gear inch ratio.
Here is the table with higher resolution:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k5mlbzj8im...n2016.png?dl=0
Compact Version (48-52 x 13-16):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl3timxrcf...mpact.png?dl=0
All the possible combinations with 44-56 chainrings and cogs from 12 thru 18.
I have one printed and I circled the gear combinations I use.
50x15 for most trainings and 48x14 for racing (333m track)
I like it because I can see the equivalences and overlaps of the gears.
Also, look on the table to the right for the exact nominal gear inch ratio.
Here is the table with higher resolution:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k5mlbzj8im...n2016.png?dl=0
Compact Version (48-52 x 13-16):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl3timxrcf...mpact.png?dl=0
Last edited by Cen; 05-24-16 at 12:31 AM.
#53
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#54
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This sounds reasonable.
I have a free app in the Apple App Store called "Track Cycling Gear Calculator". It will help you keep track of the gears you can make.
Pay close attention to your cadences. Learn to feel the 3 sensations:
1) Gear is too big: This is often called, "Under the gear", "Bogged down", or "Couldn't get on top of it.". This is because you can't get up to your optimal cadence range.
2) Gear is too small: This is often called, "Spinning out", "Spinning like a hamster", "Revving out". This is where the gear is so small/light that you are capable of going past your optimal cadence range.
3) Gear is perfect: This is called, "On top of the gear."
...just like Goldilocks!
You will find that your gearing will evolve with your rest, fitness, and as the season progresses. What feels good one week may feel awful the next. Feel is important in gearing....and cadence
I have a free app in the Apple App Store called "Track Cycling Gear Calculator". It will help you keep track of the gears you can make.
Pay close attention to your cadences. Learn to feel the 3 sensations:
1) Gear is too big: This is often called, "Under the gear", "Bogged down", or "Couldn't get on top of it.". This is because you can't get up to your optimal cadence range.
2) Gear is too small: This is often called, "Spinning out", "Spinning like a hamster", "Revving out". This is where the gear is so small/light that you are capable of going past your optimal cadence range.
3) Gear is perfect: This is called, "On top of the gear."
...just like Goldilocks!
You will find that your gearing will evolve with your rest, fitness, and as the season progresses. What feels good one week may feel awful the next. Feel is important in gearing....and cadence
Will experiment with gearing for matches; thinking initially, I should be down in the 94-96 area. That's what I'm using in general practice, and it feels light enough to get up to speed suddenly without bogging down badly, but still has enough top end for a lap or two at decent speed. I'm not naturally a high cadence person. Once I get some diligent strength training in, I might adjust, but going by feel right now, it's apparent that I'm not really ready for big gearing (over 102).
Last edited by Super D; 09-10-19 at 09:34 AM.
#56
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This is great. I'm working on gear selection, and noticing that I'm feeling decent (manageable HR max) at 120-126 rpm in a sprint, and in current fitness, that's matching to 100-102 gear inches. But that's for a relative newb in the 200, lots to learn, but enjoying it immensely.
Will experiment with gearing for matches; thinking initially, I should be down in the 94-96 area. That's what I'm using in general practice, and it feels light enough to get up to speed suddenly without bogging down badly, but still has enough top end for a lap or two at decent speed. I'm not naturally a high cadence person. Once I get some diligent strength training in, I might adjust, but going by feel right now, it's apparent that I'm not really ready for big gearing (over 102).
Will experiment with gearing for matches; thinking initially, I should be down in the 94-96 area. That's what I'm using in general practice, and it feels light enough to get up to speed suddenly without bogging down badly, but still has enough top end for a lap or two at decent speed. I'm not naturally a high cadence person. Once I get some diligent strength training in, I might adjust, but going by feel right now, it's apparent that I'm not really ready for big gearing (over 102).
Long ago when I started, I thought at first I had some early form of asthma as I just couldn't breath and people were passing me. Then I realized that 48x16 was just a little too low when I was in good shape. LOL.
#59
Full Member
That sounds about right. I think most of us locally get it up to 135 - 140rpm in training. Certainly practice in a low gear and teach yourself how to spin (without bouncing too much!). Some races limit the field to 90 inches, so you should (eventually) be able to go all out at that gearing (although sometimes that makes me feel like my heart is going to pop!).
Long ago when I started, I thought at first I had some early form of asthma as I just couldn't breath and people were passing me. Then I realized that 48x16 was just a little too low when I was in good shape. LOL.
Long ago when I started, I thought at first I had some early form of asthma as I just couldn't breath and people were passing me. Then I realized that 48x16 was just a little too low when I was in good shape. LOL.
I think because I'm used to pushing bigger gears and lower cadence in road TT (93-98 avg in races) and on road bikes, 130 feels like high cadence relatively.
I'll try 108 gearing in practice next for the 200 and see if I can get on top of that with an early ramp up. It felt like I could've this week, which was unexpected. Then I can go back down to 100 or 102 for matches.
Last edited by Super D; 09-13-19 at 04:54 PM.
#60
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130rpm is pretty good (if your are comfortable and smooth). Looking at our last training session - most people were not going much over 130. Some of the really fast guys peaked at 140.
#61
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130 feels as fast as I can comfortably spin with any fluidity. I'd say I could develop higher cadence with some diligent training in smaller gears, which may be true, but...I'm not so sure I should focus on bringing max cadence up. HR in the sprints was peaking at 180, and although I've seen higher HR's in road race sprints, I don't think spinning higher cadence with max HR as a practice may be a safe path for me. If I can build some leg strength, run heavier gearing, and generate speed without spinning up higher (including not driving my respiratory rate and HR higher), my perception is that it'll be easier on my heart and I may last longer as a cyclist. Of course, that's just a personal theory (with some cautionary thoughts from family heart health history lurking in the background).
All of these self-cautionary thoughts aside, there is no doubt that pedaling smoothness can benefit from training with lower gearing and faster spinning. It just doesn't necessarily have to be under high power output.
#62
Senior Member
Regarding gearing and cadence, I think it's great practice to train on gears both much larger and much smaller than your race gears to stretch your power-at-cadence range. I will sometimes train on 51/12, 49/13, and 48/14 all in the same session even, depending on time of the season.
#63
Full Member
Regarding gearing and cadence, I think it's great practice to train on gears both much larger and much smaller than your race gears to stretch your power-at-cadence range. I will sometimes train on 51/12, 49/13, and 48/14 all in the same session even, depending on time of the season.
#64
Full Member
Want to know which one is your next step up? I made this handy table.
All the possible combinations with 44-56 chainrings and cogs from 12 thru 18.
I have one printed and I circled the gear combinations I use.
50x15 for most trainings and 48x14 for racing (333m track)
I like it because I can see the equivalences and overlaps of the gears.
Also, look on the table to the right for the exact nominal gear inch ratio.
Here is the table with higher resolution:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k5mlbzj8im...n2016.png?dl=0
Compact Version (48-52 x 13-16):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl3timxrcf...mpact.png?dl=0
All the possible combinations with 44-56 chainrings and cogs from 12 thru 18.
I have one printed and I circled the gear combinations I use.
50x15 for most trainings and 48x14 for racing (333m track)
I like it because I can see the equivalences and overlaps of the gears.
Also, look on the table to the right for the exact nominal gear inch ratio.
Here is the table with higher resolution:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k5mlbzj8im...n2016.png?dl=0
Compact Version (48-52 x 13-16):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl3timxrcf...mpact.png?dl=0
#65
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I have a copy of Cens spreadsheet here. I added some extra gears to the sheet up to 63t for bigger sprinting ratios. There is some highlighting in the sheets that i added for my own use, but that should be easy for you to remove.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=11G...bQfVyBnkySBTZG
Cen - if you see this & want me to remove this file, please say so and I will do as it is your work and i take no credit for it.
Last edited by Kaben; 09-25-19 at 04:43 AM.
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#66
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Hi Super D,
I have a copy of Cens spreadsheet here. I added some extra gears to the sheet up to 63t for bigger sprinting ratios. There is some highlighting in the sheets that i added for my own use, but that should be easy for you to remove.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=11G...bQfVyBnkySBTZG
Cen - if you see this & want me to remove this file, please say so and I will do as it is your work and i take no credit for it.
I have a copy of Cens spreadsheet here. I added some extra gears to the sheet up to 63t for bigger sprinting ratios. There is some highlighting in the sheets that i added for my own use, but that should be easy for you to remove.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=11G...bQfVyBnkySBTZG
Cen - if you see this & want me to remove this file, please say so and I will do as it is your work and i take no credit for it.
#67
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If you are an iPhone user, I made a free app in the App Store called "Track Cycling Gear Calculator" that helps with all of that. It even let's you keep an inventory of your road and track bike chainrings and cogs. I created a "Reverse Gear Calculator" feature that, for a given gear inch/meter/ratio, present you chainring/cog options.
It also has a normal gear calculator feature where you just enter chainring/cog and it calculates gear inches, meters, and ratio depending on what's common in your region of the world.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/track-...or/id925659197
It also has a normal gear calculator feature where you just enter chainring/cog and it calculates gear inches, meters, and ratio depending on what's common in your region of the world.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/track-...or/id925659197
#68
Full Member
@carlton that’s amazing, thank you for sharing that! Do you ever get to San Diego? I can’t accept using the app for free, I have to pay you in fish tacos. Take me up on it, please.
Is it difficult to add parameters? Now that we’re looking at the spreadsheet with RPM and seeing resultant speed per gearing combination, it’s kind of changing the way I’m looking at gearing overall. I’m thinking for the 200, the resultant max speed is the why, and RPM is the how.
Not to oversimplify... of course, there are situations beyond the 200 where other factors come into play, such as spooling up from a standing start, length of race, etc. I’m starting to understand gearing basics better. This is so helpful.
Is it difficult to add parameters? Now that we’re looking at the spreadsheet with RPM and seeing resultant speed per gearing combination, it’s kind of changing the way I’m looking at gearing overall. I’m thinking for the 200, the resultant max speed is the why, and RPM is the how.
Not to oversimplify... of course, there are situations beyond the 200 where other factors come into play, such as spooling up from a standing start, length of race, etc. I’m starting to understand gearing basics better. This is so helpful.
#69
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@carlton that’s amazing, thank you for sharing that! Do you ever get to San Diego? I can’t accept using the app for free, I have to pay you in fish tacos. Take me up on it, please.
Is it difficult to add parameters? Now that we’re looking at the spreadsheet with RPM and seeing resultant speed per gearing combination, it’s kind of changing the way I’m looking at gearing overall. I’m thinking for the 200, the resultant max speed is the why, and RPM is the how.
Not to oversimplify... of course, there are situations beyond the 200 where other factors come into play, such as spooling up from a standing start, length of race, etc. I’m starting to understand gearing basics better. This is so helpful.
Not to oversimplify... of course, there are situations beyond the 200 where other factors come into play, such as spooling up from a standing start, length of race, etc. I’m starting to understand gearing basics better. This is so helpful.
That's in my other app...for that I charge A LOT.
...$1.99
Look for the "Simulator" feature in the app. You can change parameters and see what the calculator computes your time to be. It's the 3rd image here:
I can't link directly to it because I'm not a paying advertiser here and I don't want to get in hot water. But, if you click the link above and then click my name, you'll see my apps. Or search the store for "Track Cycling Stopwatch" or "Carleton Hall".
EDIT: I removed the head to head TT part from my app. I need to remove it from the screenshot.
BTW, Lots of top coaches and athletes use this. I've even seen it used on WR attempts. My buddy says he saw a coach using it on the Rio Olympics.
I should charge more...
#70
Senior Member
I can vouch for this app, it's super useful. I use it everytime I train at home of at the track. Buy it.
#71
Full Member
Deal!
Hmmm....let me think about it...
That's in my other app...for that I charge A LOT.
...$1.99
Look for the "Simulator" feature in the app. You can change parameters and see what the calculator computes your time to be. It's the 3rd image here:
I can't link directly to it because I'm not a paying advertiser here and I don't want to get in hot water. But, if you click the link above and then click my name, you'll see my apps. Or search the store for "Track Cycling Stopwatch" or "Carleton Hall".
EDIT: I removed the head to head TT part from my app. I need to remove it from the screenshot.
BTW, Lots of top coaches and athletes use this. I've even seen it used on WR attempts. My buddy says he saw a coach using it on the Rio Olympics.
I should charge more...
Hmmm....let me think about it...
That's in my other app...for that I charge A LOT.
...$1.99
Look for the "Simulator" feature in the app. You can change parameters and see what the calculator computes your time to be. It's the 3rd image here:
I can't link directly to it because I'm not a paying advertiser here and I don't want to get in hot water. But, if you click the link above and then click my name, you'll see my apps. Or search the store for "Track Cycling Stopwatch" or "Carleton Hall".
EDIT: I removed the head to head TT part from my app. I need to remove it from the screenshot.
BTW, Lots of top coaches and athletes use this. I've even seen it used on WR attempts. My buddy says he saw a coach using it on the Rio Olympics.
I should charge more...
#73
Full Member
Great app! Playing with it now, my wife’s asking when I’m coming to bed. She has no idea I’m fantasizing about gearing to drop into the low 11’s and 40mph max speed instead of what I’m supposed to be focused on, lol! (Carl’s getting me in trouble.)
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#74
Senior Member
This thing is great. This app and a speedo with max speed (and the occasional stop watch/operator) is all the data I have at my disposal and it doesn't seem to be slowing me down. Who needs a power meter?
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#75
Full Member
I have a power crank on my TT bike, but basically, I look at the avg speed target for a race and manage that instead of power during the race, so power is sort of a retrospective supporting data point. HR with a 10s time range is something I’m experimenting with as well, because whatever health and fatigue state I’m in that day, I know from 163-170bpm is my hour avg HR threshold, so if I’m putting in long efforts to bring my avg speed up, I know I’ll need to avoid going over 170 for too long, unless it’s the last 1-2k where you dump all remaining matches and die the last few deaths.