Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#8251
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How to mechanic continued.
First we'll get the old crank off. To do that we need to remove the dust covers and crank bolts. Then we will pull the crank. We need a small flathead screwdriver to pop out dust covers. We we also need a socket wrench, 14mm socket and a crank arm puller. We also need to anchor the bike so it is steady. Use whatever you need to for that.
First we'll get the old crank off. To do that we need to remove the dust covers and crank bolts. Then we will pull the crank. We need a small flathead screwdriver to pop out dust covers. We we also need a socket wrench, 14mm socket and a crank arm puller. We also need to anchor the bike so it is steady. Use whatever you need to for that.
Last edited by seypat; 03-22-20 at 09:12 PM.
#8252
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How to mechanic continued.
Dust covers and bolts are removed. Time for the crank arms. This is the most important part of the process. Edit: Good suggestions from Hudson308.
THREAD THE CRANK PULLER IN AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. REPEAT. THREAD THE CRANK PULLER IN AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. Put a wrench on outer screw part and begin turning clockwise. Use the free hand for resistance on the crank arm. Remove the crank arm and repeat on the other arm.
Dust covers and bolts are removed. Time for the crank arms. This is the most important part of the process. Edit: Good suggestions from Hudson308.
My only additions would be:
-MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T A WASHER LEFT BEHIND WHERE THE RETAINING BOLT/NUT WAS!!! Don't ask me how I learned about this. Maybe even a couple times.
-Use some WD40 and a toothbrush to clean any gunk out of the crank extractor threads before screwing your removal tool in. This is especially true if either of the dust covers have been missing for awhile. This will help ensure that you can thread the tool in as far as it needs to go for maximum thread engagement.
-MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T A WASHER LEFT BEHIND WHERE THE RETAINING BOLT/NUT WAS!!! Don't ask me how I learned about this. Maybe even a couple times.
-Use some WD40 and a toothbrush to clean any gunk out of the crank extractor threads before screwing your removal tool in. This is especially true if either of the dust covers have been missing for awhile. This will help ensure that you can thread the tool in as far as it needs to go for maximum thread engagement.
Last edited by seypat; 03-22-20 at 08:38 PM.
#8254
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Gearing how to continued.
How big of a sprocket will the 2 RDs take? Let's find out. I have a wheelset with a 28t big cog and one with a 30t big cog. First, the 600 SIS RD.
28T,
30T,
Both need some more chain, but the top jockey wheel hits the 30T with more slack. So, 28T is the biggest you can go on the back.
The same thing happens with the 105 RD. 28T works, but the jockey wheel hits the 30T. 28T is the largest that will work.
If you have the right chain length, both will work with a 28T and a triple up front. That's what I run on my 87. A 12-28 52/42/30 combo.
If you want to run >28T, get a Shimano MTB RD from the same era. Deerhead or Deore. Go to Velobase and figure out which one you need.
How big of a sprocket will the 2 RDs take? Let's find out. I have a wheelset with a 28t big cog and one with a 30t big cog. First, the 600 SIS RD.
28T,
30T,
Both need some more chain, but the top jockey wheel hits the 30T with more slack. So, 28T is the biggest you can go on the back.
The same thing happens with the 105 RD. 28T works, but the jockey wheel hits the 30T. 28T is the largest that will work.
If you have the right chain length, both will work with a 28T and a triple up front. That's what I run on my 87. A 12-28 52/42/30 combo.
If you want to run >28T, get a Shimano MTB RD from the same era. Deerhead or Deore. Go to Velobase and figure out which one you need.
#8255
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How to mechanic continued.
Now we can look at the options we have available.
Left top is original.
Left bottom is 130/86bcd.
Middle is 110bcd.
Both right are 110/74bcd.
Not pictured: 86bcd. I have one. Didn't want to pull it for the pic.
130bcd low limit is 38t.
130/86bcd adds a 3rd ring in the 52-28t range.
110bcd will take a 33t low, but those are unobtainium. 34t is the norm.
110/74bcd adds a 3rd ring down to 22t.
86bcd is a real sleeper. Double or triple combos from 52-28t.
If you decide on a triple. The FD-6207 600 FD will swing/move enough to run a triple. The FD-105X 105 FD will not.
Now we can look at the options we have available.
Left top is original.
Left bottom is 130/86bcd.
Middle is 110bcd.
Both right are 110/74bcd.
Not pictured: 86bcd. I have one. Didn't want to pull it for the pic.
130bcd low limit is 38t.
130/86bcd adds a 3rd ring in the 52-28t range.
110bcd will take a 33t low, but those are unobtainium. 34t is the norm.
110/74bcd adds a 3rd ring down to 22t.
86bcd is a real sleeper. Double or triple combos from 52-28t.
If you decide on a triple. The FD-6207 600 FD will swing/move enough to run a triple. The FD-105X 105 FD will not.
Last edited by seypat; 03-22-20 at 07:18 PM.
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How to mechanic continued.
Looks are important also.
Looks are important also.
Last edited by seypat; 03-22-20 at 06:19 PM.
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How to mechanic continued.
There it is. Weigh the benefits/costs and do what works for you. One other optional component to mention. Toss the standard crank bolts/dust covers and use these instead. Around $10 for a pair. Most multi tools have the matching size wrench for emergency repair on the road. I need to fill in the letters on the crank arms with a sharpie. Better do that now.
For myself, I would go with a triple. This is the loaner bike however, so I overhauled the BB then put on a 110/74 crank with the same spindle. It is now a 52/36 semi compact double. I took pictures of the BB overhaul, but that will have to wait for another episode of Ironman Nation "How to."
Now it's time to turn it over to the hot riders, the outlaws and the rebel rousers that can show you how to trick out you IM with the latest/greatest modern components. I'm talking about experts like RT, rccardr, txsailor, texpandj and others. Take it away, people!
There it is. Weigh the benefits/costs and do what works for you. One other optional component to mention. Toss the standard crank bolts/dust covers and use these instead. Around $10 for a pair. Most multi tools have the matching size wrench for emergency repair on the road. I need to fill in the letters on the crank arms with a sharpie. Better do that now.
For myself, I would go with a triple. This is the loaner bike however, so I overhauled the BB then put on a 110/74 crank with the same spindle. It is now a 52/36 semi compact double. I took pictures of the BB overhaul, but that will have to wait for another episode of Ironman Nation "How to."
Now it's time to turn it over to the hot riders, the outlaws and the rebel rousers that can show you how to trick out you IM with the latest/greatest modern components. I'm talking about experts like RT, rccardr, txsailor, texpandj and others. Take it away, people!
Last edited by seypat; 03-23-20 at 06:24 AM.
#8259
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Dust covers and bolts are removed. Time for the crank arms. This is the most important part of the process. THREAD THE CRANK PULLER IN AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. REPEAT. THREAD THE CRANK PULLER IN AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. Put a wrench on outer screw part and begin turning clockwise. Use the free hand for resistance on the crank arm. Remove the crank arm and repeat on the other arm.
My only additions would be:
-MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T A WASHER LEFT BEHIND WHERE THE RETAINING BOLT/NUT WAS!!! Don't ask me how I learned about this. Maybe even a couple times.
-Use some WD40 and a toothbrush to clean any gunk out of the crank extractor threads before screwing your removal tool in. This is especially true if either of the dust covers have been missing for awhile. This will help ensure that you can thread the tool in as far as it needs to go for maximum thread engagement.
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"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
#8260
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Thanks for posting the quick tutorial on crank removal. Turns out there are actually a couple guys (and gals) out there who have never done that.
My only additions would be:
-MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T A WASHER LEFT BEHIND WHERE THE RETAINING BOLT/NUT WAS!!! Don't ask me how I learned about this. Maybe even a couple times.
-Use some WD40 and a toothbrush to clean any gunk out of the crank extractor threads before screwing your removal tool in. This is especially true if either of the dust covers have been missing for awhile. This will help ensure that you can thread the tool in as far as it needs to go for maximum thread engagement.
My only additions would be:
-MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T A WASHER LEFT BEHIND WHERE THE RETAINING BOLT/NUT WAS!!! Don't ask me how I learned about this. Maybe even a couple times.
-Use some WD40 and a toothbrush to clean any gunk out of the crank extractor threads before screwing your removal tool in. This is especially true if either of the dust covers have been missing for awhile. This will help ensure that you can thread the tool in as far as it needs to go for maximum thread engagement.
#8261
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Yeah you won't like the results after using a removal tool with those washers left in. It WILL ruin your day.
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#8262
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Ok, folks. We have to get this IM ready to ride for the season. Any suggestions for things to do to get it roadworthy? The next episodes will be servicing the BB/Headset and swapping a freehub body to 7 speed.
#8263
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I put the 52/36 crank on and something doesn't look right. It looks incomplete. I figured it out. It will take about 30 seconds to change.
Much betta! Use a thick pointed Sharpie/permanent marker. Fill it in, then wipe off the excess quickly with a paper towel. But now I see the bare, maybe rusty spots on the chainstay. To treat those, clean them up with some metal wool. After that, put some rust stopping primer on such as this. Brush/poke it on with a Q tip. Let it dry and apply touch up paint, or not. Finally, put on a clear sealant like fingernail paint/polish.
Much betta! Use a thick pointed Sharpie/permanent marker. Fill it in, then wipe off the excess quickly with a paper towel. But now I see the bare, maybe rusty spots on the chainstay. To treat those, clean them up with some metal wool. After that, put some rust stopping primer on such as this. Brush/poke it on with a Q tip. Let it dry and apply touch up paint, or not. Finally, put on a clear sealant like fingernail paint/polish.
#8264
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If you are swapping freehub bodies, go 9 speed and you have 7,8 or 9 speed capability.
Crank fixing bolt washers are no joke. I once broke a removal tool trying to pull a crank over the washer☹️
Please dont post any more pictures of that IM without adjusting those bars😉
Crank fixing bolt washers are no joke. I once broke a removal tool trying to pull a crank over the washer☹️
Please dont post any more pictures of that IM without adjusting those bars😉
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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If you are swapping freehub bodies, go 9 speed and you have 7,8 or 9 speed capability.
Crank fixing bolt washers are no joke. I once broke a removal tool trying to pull a crank over the washer☹️
Please dont post any more pictures of that IM without adjusting those bars😉
Crank fixing bolt washers are no joke. I once broke a removal tool trying to pull a crank over the washer☹️
Please dont post any more pictures of that IM without adjusting those bars😉
#8266
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It reminds me that someone said I should raise my Brifters...so I did.
The thing is, with regular brake levers I line up the bottom of the bars and the bottom tip of the brake levers. However the Brifters are longer and when you do that, the hoods are too high for my liking. But I went ahead and did it the regular way . It's ok so far.
The thing is, with regular brake levers I line up the bottom of the bars and the bottom tip of the brake levers. However the Brifters are longer and when you do that, the hoods are too high for my liking. But I went ahead and did it the regular way . It's ok so far.
#8267
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A little after the Shelter in place was issued for our county my biking buddy text me and asked if I was gonna get on the trainer. I told him I was still in Fight Fit mode and didn't plan on it. But that I was really getting the itch to ride. He responded with "we already practice social distance when I drop you".
The funny bastud.
Reality is, I've been a little sick the last couple of weeks but plan on riding my Miami Vice when my wife gets home today. A little 20 miler. What about y'all?
The funny bastud.
Reality is, I've been a little sick the last couple of weeks but plan on riding my Miami Vice when my wife gets home today. A little 20 miler. What about y'all?
#8268
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Yesterday, I contemplated an "upgrade" or two on my Classic. This morning, I almost swapped the brakes for dual pivot Ultegra and the levers for new Gran Comp Aero with the spring return. And I was also planning to replace the BioPace with a pair of TAs in 39-53.
All I did was pump up the tubulars (Vittoria Rally on GL 330/7400) and then went for a ride. 32 miles and 2800 feet of climbing. Climbing at 9.6 mph instead of my best 10.0 mph. Further upgrades are postponed again.
All I did was pump up the tubulars (Vittoria Rally on GL 330/7400) and then went for a ride. 32 miles and 2800 feet of climbing. Climbing at 9.6 mph instead of my best 10.0 mph. Further upgrades are postponed again.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#8269
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Well I only rode 17 miles today on my Miami Vice. Today's high was 86 however it was about 80 by the time I finally rode.
My ride was amazing and fantastic. It was like I had a motor. I was thinking that maybe this is how people with e-bikes feel. Yeah it was that good. My MV is Not my fastest Ironman but it is my heaviest. No matter, that was F-U-N.
Frankly I was a little surprised how good I felt especially cause I still have a cough. Fortunately it's not a dry cough.
My MV is the only bike that is basically original. The 105 group is solid performing although a bit heavy.
The turbo saddle, 600 aero seatpost, 7 speed 13-28 freewheel, Scott DH aerobars, and 7 speed gripshift are the only things not original. BTW, I have all the original components (sans the 6 speed shifters) if I ever need to return it to original specs. But for now it's 7 speed because it's a '87.
My ride was amazing and fantastic. It was like I had a motor. I was thinking that maybe this is how people with e-bikes feel. Yeah it was that good. My MV is Not my fastest Ironman but it is my heaviest. No matter, that was F-U-N.
Frankly I was a little surprised how good I felt especially cause I still have a cough. Fortunately it's not a dry cough.
My MV is the only bike that is basically original. The 105 group is solid performing although a bit heavy.
The turbo saddle, 600 aero seatpost, 7 speed 13-28 freewheel, Scott DH aerobars, and 7 speed gripshift are the only things not original. BTW, I have all the original components (sans the 6 speed shifters) if I ever need to return it to original specs. But for now it's 7 speed because it's a '87.
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#8270
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I rode my Purple Haze 27 miles this afternoon. The first time on a road bike since Feb 15. I have been doing TrainerRoad and doing some gravel rides on my High Sierra along with some rides to the gym on my fake Salsa single speed, so I haven't got too out of shape. I also felt fast while I was going South since I had a 12-15 mph tail wind but my speed went downhill fast when I headed back North. Oh well I felt like a bad a$$ for a little while.
I was supposed to work this week but I didn't feel safe at work anymore so I bailed and took some vacation time. Next Monday is my last scheduled day to work and I will be officially retired. Its sort of a bummer, I was slated for a retirement dinner for our whole department and I was going to savor marking my last days in Air Force Plant #4 off the calendar. Now I get to worry about my friends and coworkers who are required to work in what I feel are unsafe conditions.
I was supposed to work this week but I didn't feel safe at work anymore so I bailed and took some vacation time. Next Monday is my last scheduled day to work and I will be officially retired. Its sort of a bummer, I was slated for a retirement dinner for our whole department and I was going to savor marking my last days in Air Force Plant #4 off the calendar. Now I get to worry about my friends and coworkers who are required to work in what I feel are unsafe conditions.
#8271
Senior Member
Well I only rode 17 miles today on my Miami Vice. Today's high was 86 however it was about 80 by the time I finally rode.
My ride was amazing and fantastic. It was like I had a motor. I was thinking that maybe this is how people with e-bikes feel. Yeah it was that good. My MV is Not my fastest Ironman but it is my heaviest. No matter, that was F-U-N.
Frankly I was a little surprised how good I felt especially cause I still have a cough. Fortunately it's not a dry cough.
My MV is the only bike that is basically original. The 105 group is solid performing although a bit heavy.
The turbo saddle, 600 aero seatpost, 7 speed 13-28 freewheel, Scott DH aerobars, and 7 speed gripshift are the only things not original. BTW, I have all the original components (sans the 6 speed shifters) if I ever need to return it to original specs. But for now it's 7 speed because it's a '87.
My ride was amazing and fantastic. It was like I had a motor. I was thinking that maybe this is how people with e-bikes feel. Yeah it was that good. My MV is Not my fastest Ironman but it is my heaviest. No matter, that was F-U-N.
Frankly I was a little surprised how good I felt especially cause I still have a cough. Fortunately it's not a dry cough.
My MV is the only bike that is basically original. The 105 group is solid performing although a bit heavy.
The turbo saddle, 600 aero seatpost, 7 speed 13-28 freewheel, Scott DH aerobars, and 7 speed gripshift are the only things not original. BTW, I have all the original components (sans the 6 speed shifters) if I ever need to return it to original specs. But for now it's 7 speed because it's a '87.
#8272
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#8273
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#8274
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I have new Panaracer Catalyst Sport blackwalls with a yellow stripe on each side and a black face. It is not the orange-y yellow of the Vice.
I have used Vittoria Pro Team Action Kevlar skinwalls, then a yellow stripe, then a black face. It is the orange-y yellow of the Vice. Plenty good shape.
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To all, you should take a look at the "HELP identify an 80s bike" thread if you haven't already. It might be a Centurion/Diamondback missing link type bike.