Robvolz 

1971 large flange, Hub, Regina Oro free wheel that takes two prong removed tool

Yes, I did the trick where you use your quick release to hold the remover tool in proper place.

I shared that stuff right off.

I have it soaking in PB blaster overnight. Thinking I need to drill a couple holes, sacrificing the free wheel, thread, some bolts in there and torque on those unless somebody has a better idea.

brooklyn_bike

Mad Honk 

The pin spanner might have a bit of a problem with the mangled body of the freewheel. If you can get Dremel with a cutter bit in the space to remove some of the burrs, and help with the removal of the lock ring. Good luck! Smiles, MH

bboy314

If you don’t mind destroying the freewheel and have access to a welder, you can weld it “fixed” and remove with a chainwhip.

Nwvlvtnr 

Hit it with an upside can of spray duster followed by a drop of oil. The cone should come apart with a drift and hammer to the pin holes followed by the RJ pipe wrench method.

chain_whipped

Easy, fellow.

1) In place of the skewer securing the tool, use a long panhead screw, and for the obverse a washer and nut. Tighten securely.

2) Air or electric impact wrench / socket to the freewheel tool.

They come off like butter. Threads on the hub are forgiving so make sure you run the impact lefty loosey.
PS. If you don't have access to a pneumatic or electric impact wrench, just get a cheapie from Harbor Fright or Amozone. If you don't want to spend even for this, take the entire assembly to car dealer / repair shop to this in under a minute, or use for free the loaner tool from one of the big chain auto parts stores.

repechage

Looks like a Suntour early two prong remover to me. The teeth are too deep for a stubborn Regina.

there are a few ways to attack the problem, most murder the body, you have to decide soon if you want to save the cogs before taking measures.

chain_whipped

Even if the notches of FW body are boogered, use a mini rotary tool and cut new ones. Admit its tedious but the task goes quickly. You're not on shop time so enjoy the challenge. Good luck-

Kabuki12

I have a Regina removal tool that is pretty cool and works very well. The tool is threaded to accept the skewer which firmly secures the tool while loosening. I place the tool in a bench vise and turn the wheel, bingo! I learned the vise method from my local bike shop years ago . Mark hated to see two prong SunTour or Regina FW’s but never butchered them no matter how stubborn they were , he has finesse and patience. After years of having my wife or a friend hold the wheel while I struggled with a big wrench , I saw Mark loosen one with the vise method and now I don’t fear the FW!

daka

I've had to use the "disassemble and use a pipe wrench" method once. Putting a rag between the freewheel ratchet and the pipe wrench minimized damages and I was able to reassemble a working freewheel again afterwards, though yours is already pretty torn up so there may not be any point.

Robvolz 

I have a spare body, and a box of various gears. I'm not opposed to decrying the freewheel.

After lunch, I'll see what happens.

Sigh.

RCMoeur 

Regina Oh-no. Ouch.

daka

I think the lock ring is a left-hand thread.

Robvolz 

After trying several methods. Including using fresh tips on a VAR tool and not succeeding.

it left me no choice.

Robvolz 

The freewheel is free. I was able to save 2 cogs.

Manny66 

Beer Time !

droppedandlost 

real men don't have shields on their grinders

steelbikeguy

That sounds like the tool that I've got...










It should be noted that it requires a somewhat unique thread on the skewer. I think this old Schwinn skewer might be French in origin?? A Campy skewer doesn't work.

The knurled portion that the skewer threads into is loosely swaged into the remover portion, and would be a bit of work to remove from the remover portion.

Steve in Peoria

Kabuki12

mine threads easily onto a Campagnolo Skewer , and it looks just like yours. I’m just curious , does yours have a BC stamped on it?

I’m not sure you can see the stamp on the knurled end , it is stamped BC

Kabuki12

Good news. You really had to work for it , but it paid off.

steelbikeguy

It has BA stamped on it, and I was wondering what that meant...



Using a thread pitch gauge, it looks like the Schwinn skewer that fits this tool has 0.9 thread pitch (threads per millimeter).
Checking a Campy skewer, it appears to use threads with a pitch of 0.8.
Did Campy just decide to use a proprietary thread, or is this a French thing? (assuming that the Schwinn skewers were made by Normandy or another of their French suppliers)

Steve in Peoria
(to whom it may concern: I'm not using this Regina tool anymore... please contact me if there is any interest)

Kabuki12

Steve, It’s funny you say that, all my bikes , except for one , have Campagnolo skewers . I will have to see if the tool I have will thread on to the other bike with Superbe / Sunshine skewer. Hmmm. This is my favorite FW tool though. I only have a couple of Regina FW’s , most are SunTour and take a different tool. Glad to see Rob got the stuck FW off the hub , but man , he had to work for it!

madpogue 

Srsly? Doesn't the metric standard use millimeters per thread otherwise?

Neat idea. Leaves me wondering why no one ever came up with one for a two- or four-notch Suntour.

steelbikeguy

oops... sorry. It is indeed mm per thread. (it's still early. )

As for why the idea wasn't more widely used... I don't see the benefit to it. The swaged-on threaded portion just replaces the QR nut that you probably already have in your hand when you pulled the QR out of the hub.

Steve in Peoria

John E

What works well for me is to use a QR nut with a slightly conical outer end and to flip it around when using it with a SunTour remover. This restricts any tendency of the remover to squirm from side to side.