VintageSteelEU

Suntour freewheel has been adjusted and the play is gone. Seems smooth so far, though I will have to take some time and listen to it for a bit to make sure all is good. I mean, in all fairness, there's a bit of wear to the ratchet, so probably I should look at other freewheel bodies I have and see if I can transplant the sprockets to it. But that's not something urgent.
Other than that I managed to find some time to start digging up parts for C5 and Superator. Now I'm not sure whether I will use Huret Success Titane for C5. On one hand, that would keep it very authentic, on the other though, it will be a downgrade to anything else I might put on it (most likely Suntour Vx, I have one NOS). Looking at that poor Huret, which, other than Jubile, was their top of the line, and comparing it to Suntour Vx is like comparing a crude stone age tool to a nice, artisan made one. So perhaps instead of going for all genuine Motobecane components, I should just go for period correct, perfectly functional and comfortable in use.
Other than that, got a Suntour Blue Line rear derailleur in post today. Lots of muck, grime and rust where it could rust. So we'll see how this goes. Mechanically seems sound and I have some spare parts from 2 Vx. One nice thing is that the pulley wheels do not seem to have much wear. I don't have many Suntour pulley wheels in good condition to spare, so this will be handy whatever the outcome of this overhaul. The idea is to use this RD together with Blue Line FD on some mixte frame in the future.

52telecaster

Many motos came with suntour. Seems like a reasonable move. Vx is the bomb. Cheap, light and great working.

VintageSteelEU

It's interesting how after a year of handling and using mostly Suntour derailleurs (Superbe and Vx), pulling the set of Huret Success TItane from the box feels like going back in time more than to the mid-70's. The RD is quite nice actually and I like the fact I can nearly completely dismantle it, including pulling parallelogram bolts out. Unfortunately, the picot spring is tired and probably could use a replacement, so that's something I will have to look for. I'm hoping one of the 10 or so Sachs/Huret derailleurs I have gathering dust, can become a donor. As for the front derailleur, that is one clunky mechanism. This does feel ancient in terms of design. The quality of finish isn't great, even comparing with something mid-range like Suntour Vx. Great thing about it though is that, again, it can be dismantled nearly completely. Not that it's easy to put back together But overall, both of these I think would work great on a late 60's frame and wouldn't feel out of place.
The parts I have for this build came off French market Motobecane C5: Belleri stem and handlebar, Hutchinson rubber covers, Weinmann 605 levers and brakes, Stronglight / Motobecane headset, Stronglight Competition bottom bracket, Stronglight 105 BIS TER crankset, SR pedals. I might even reuse Sedis chain from that one. I haven't decided on the seatpost yet, but it will likely be SR Laprade (as the original one) or JPR. Original saddle I had was Turbo, I will probably switch to San Marco Concor. Orginal wheels were basic Maillard hubs on Weinmann concave rims - this will be changed to Normandy Luxe Competition on MA40 when I get the chance to overhaul the hubs and rebuild the wheels. Interestingly, the freewheel I had with this bunch was Suntour NWN. And Huret Success Titane derailleurs. This configuartion was very typical for Motobecane C5 sold in Europe. Other variants were, from what I've seen in the catalogs, Super Champion rims, Pelissier 1000 hubs and Philippe handlebar. I have also seen C5s with top level Simplex derailleurs (and SLJ shifters instead of Huret ones). In France, they would typically be equipped with French derailleurs. But of course, I don't have to keep it exactly the same way it appears in the catalog. Bicycles are for riding, so they should be well equipped for that.
The thing is: I can keep it as close to original, as possible, and it will be a nice, relaxed ride occasionally. But the handlebar is a bit to narrow with the current bend, the brake levers are a bit too forward with Hutchinson rubber handlebar cover not allowing to move them up. So I can foresee making some upgrades in the future. Perhaps this is the frame I should put Suntour Sprint components on and use Vx ones on my commuting bike?

IdahoBrett 

Victorious!

abshipp 

I got a frame back from powder coating and had some fun with a paint pen. Need to do some lining touch ups, chase & face the BB & headtube, and clean up the top of the seat cluster but it should be getting built up in the next week or so.





Unfortunately there was some residual anti-corrosion stuff inside the seatstays that vaporized in the curing oven and discolored the frame around the seatstay vents, but overall it's turning out exactly as I hoped it would. Maybe I can find a good way to touch it up.

daverup 

That was fast! Especially seeing those rings of rust on that stem!

IdahoBrett 

Kroil it, don’t spoil it.

52telecaster

I did actually use a wrench on the nut holding the volume control in. Picked this up today and found a bad solder joint. Now it sounds lovely!

FM3, new to me!
Dynaco for the win.

jdawginsc 

Gorgeous! Powder coat and your own additions look great.

georges1

Very nice model from the late 1990's early2000's

Mr. 66

Difficult to make time, enough though. Enough to clean and break free the stuck seatpost with a good snap. The seatpost has been cleaned of, and the seatube honed clear of rust. Saddle has been lowered to my stride, also pulled forwards a solid quarter inch. The ‘Status’ stem,110mm, has been lowered also 1/4”. So hear is the as purchase from the nonprofit lbs.

Wow, whom ever the previous some long legs, I probably lower the post 2”+, it was set at minimum insertion.

Here the Serotta is set up for 66.



One thing I find interesting is that the Atlanta uses a clamp adapter for braze on derailer.

The pedals are Specialized pista with MKS dust caps, these look a lot better than I thought they would.

rjhammett

Rehabbing a 1981 Holdsworth Special. Here is what it looked like as purchased. I am replacing all components except the wheels. It will be a proper vintage road bike for my granddaughter when I am done with it. We will be able to ride our Holdsworth's together.

VintageSteelEU

Not much time today, but decided to make a start on the Superator. Started with cleaning the inside of the seat tube. Initially with a wire brush bit on the drill at the top bit of it, then creating a make-shift tool using a plastic rod and said brush with a scouring pad wrapped around it. Somehow I ended up pushing about 2x2cm piece of solid gunk into the BB shell afterwards (no photos, it was gross). It's still not perfect, but for that I will need a wider brush and a longer rod. Predictably, with the make shift tool the length of about 40cm and with another piece taped to it to reach the bottom of the seat tube, I ended up loosing it inside. That wasn't fun, but thankfully, managed to get it out pretty quickly. Ideally, I'd like to round the seat tube and hone it, but I don't have tools suitable for that at the moment, so it will have to wait. I've put a generic 26.6mm seatpost in until I decide on the final one. I'd like to use SR to match the crankset, BB, stem and handlebar, but they are all either too short or too heavy. Most likely I will go with a slightly sanded down, cut shorter and polished Nitto S65 / Ritchey.






After cleaning inside the BB shell and the threads it was time for a layer of Red 'n' Tacky. Mostly because it's tacky, which makes installation of the BB cups with loose balls a breeze. Unfortunately, I've used almost whole tub over the past few years and I think it will be either time to buy another one or switch to Mobil XHP222. I have a feeling that Red 'N' Tacky might be a better choice for the British weather.
The BB itself is a combo. I used SR Royal (steel, not titanium version) spindle with French cups from a more common model (Custom?). I would definitely prefer adjustable cup to have normal pin holes as I don't have a tool to fit the groove they've put in it, but somehow managed to screw it in, all sits in nicely and spins like a dream. Still needs a bit of adjustment as there's a very minimal amount of play (barely perceptible), but that's something to do when I'm putting the crankset on. Crankset bolts are Sugino, because that's what I had and I didn't want to use modern ones. So a bit of mish-mash, but for now it will put the bicycle back on the road and the cups are new, so can't really complain. Maybe at some point I will find French threaded cups for Royal (where the adjustable cup has standard holes).




Derailleurs are going to be Suntour Superbe (first version) and I wanted to use Suntour Sprint ratcheting shifters. Unfortunately, the set I have is not perfect, ratcheting doesn't work too well. I'm hoping that flushing them well with paint thinner might help, but remains to be seen. Worst case scenario, I can always get a modern copy by Dia Compe or perhaps someday I'll find a set of Sprint levers in a better mechanical condition. Not too fussed about it though, they will still work.



The wheels have been built and I've been testing them on another bicycle. Rather happy with them so far. The next step will be locating my Stronglight P3 headset (the earlier, lighter version with 4-pin locknut). I swear I had it somewhere a couple weeks ago, now the question is: where on Earth did I put it? Then cleaning and polishing other components I didn't have time to overhaul yet (mostly handlebar and perhaps crankset) and hopefully sometime around Easter I will be able to see how this thing rides. And whether I managed to get it below 8kg For now I'm keeping the paint as is, but the plan is to repaint it in winter if I like the ride quality. Considering the frame has been built by Bernard Carre and the components are top of the line, I'm hoping I will like it. And if not, there's always the next frame I have coming and it can take all the components, except for the seatpost and the BB, so it will be relatively easy to switch.

cjefferds 

1983 Ross Force One ready for final assembly. Everything coming together nicely so far.

IdahoBrett 

I was skeptical. I am now a believer. Even the cable adjuster now works. It made me wonder; how many gallons in a kiddie pool to submerge 27 X 1 1/4 steel wheels?

Scroll up for the before picture…

2cam16

I can't live without Evaporust. lol

curbtender

You can soak some paper towels and cover with plastic wrap.

merziac

Huh, well glad you got there and know full well that ROSS hold their own well enough but like you said.

Can't imagine parting out a Stumpy for just about anything else.

jdawginsc 

One of the few products that lives up to the legend!

daverup 

I highly recommend this method. I've used evaporust on some Schwinn rims and if you immerse them, it will take a very long time to get it out. Your rims will ooze the stuff.
Sun CR-18 alloy rims are a nice replacement, much lighter and stop better too.

Trav1s

Trek 820 sport ready for a new home.

Trav1s

Curb find that had a rough life. Nothing like JB weld to hold a snap ring in place. 🤣. Probably won't make money after I replace tires, chain, grips, and account for my time. Currently the parts are getting cycled through the ultrasonic cleaner.

cjefferds 

In the cold light of day I’m having second thoughts and leaning toward rebuilding both bikes with their original components. I appreciate the subtle intervention!

georges1

Touching the paint chips on the trek 2300

merziac