What have you been wrenching on lately?
#7626
Edumacator
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Two more student giveaways! N-2
After these two, hopefully I have taller students who need and want bikes.
GT was a rust bucket but some heavy rubbing compound has it in a good stasis...
Red K2 cleaned up nicely.
Also got to use some parts that were languishing and would t have been used elsewhere...I DO like doing 1x7 or 1x 8 for kids. The left hand shifters go unused but easier to move out the door and in the low country, hills are non existent.
No splashy-ness here. Just a heavy steel triple triangle Outpost Trail which apparently is dark grey not black (oops).
I am loving these Maxxis Hookworms.Wish they came in 700c x 33 or something.
Rubber stopper for the stem
Cleaned up nicely. 1x7
I hate V brakes with a passion.
Coronado crank gets re-life!
GT was a rust bucket but some heavy rubbing compound has it in a good stasis...
Red K2 cleaned up nicely.
Also got to use some parts that were languishing and would t have been used elsewhere...I DO like doing 1x7 or 1x 8 for kids. The left hand shifters go unused but easier to move out the door and in the low country, hills are non existent.
No splashy-ness here. Just a heavy steel triple triangle Outpost Trail which apparently is dark grey not black (oops).
I am loving these Maxxis Hookworms.Wish they came in 700c x 33 or something.
Rubber stopper for the stem
Cleaned up nicely. 1x7
I hate V brakes with a passion.
Coronado crank gets re-life!
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
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#7627
Bianchi Goddess
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The crew here at Trash Panda Werks started a “Dark Project” this morning
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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#7629
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Derailleur decision has been made. Moto C5 will be getting Suntour Superbe derailleurs (late 70's version) as it was the best derailleur on the market when the frame was manufactured. Thus it shall become the one and only (well, probably not) Motobecane Superbe. I wanted to keep it all French, but I think getting a bicycle with a nice Columbus SL frame and nice and well working components will give me more fun riding it. I thought for a moment about getting Simplex 6600, then saw the price, thought about potential problems getting it to work in a standard dropout and that combo was just a no go. Other option, Huret Jubilee, though can be found in a Campy-style dropout version, ain't exaclty cheap either. So, if I have a perfectly capable derailleur from the era, I think it's best to make use of it.
Weight weenie B Carre / Superator is getting Suntour Cyclone MK1. I just ordered a set, which doesn't look like much, so there will be some cleaning and overhauling. Here's hoping they are in good mechanical condition. For now I dug out two rear Cyclone derailleurs to see whether I can make the cable anchor bolt work and it seems with a spring washer this might be an option. Now more digging to figure out where I've stashed away spare Suntour pulley wheels.
Weight weenie B Carre / Superator is getting Suntour Cyclone MK1. I just ordered a set, which doesn't look like much, so there will be some cleaning and overhauling. Here's hoping they are in good mechanical condition. For now I dug out two rear Cyclone derailleurs to see whether I can make the cable anchor bolt work and it seems with a spring washer this might be an option. Now more digging to figure out where I've stashed away spare Suntour pulley wheels.
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#7630
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There is a full blown expose' with lots of 8x10 glossy B&W prints with circles and arrows and paragraph on the back plus a video!
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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#7631
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I'm an electronics guy, so it makes sense to me.
It also reminds me that I need to make time to tear my trusty Pioneer SX-880 apart and clean all of the pots and switches. Probably need to check the capacitors and replace anything that looks sketchy. I bought it new in the late 70's, and it would be nice to use it again.
... and I also need to do the same for the Yamaha receiver that I bought to replace the Pioneer. <..sigh..>
Honestly, mechanical switches and potentiometers are just trouble waiting to happen, but it does take time to happen.
Steve in Peoria
(I've got a nice Walkman that should get the belt replaced too)
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#7632
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No real news here.
I did have an adjusting screw seize up in a SunTour Superbe Pro front derailleur and had a rough time getting it out. It ended up with a bit of mangling of the phillips head on the screw before getting serious about the penetrating oil and (eventually) some heat to break the aluminum body free of the steel screw.
In fairness, I've been using the derailleur for 34 years, and doubt that I've ever lubed the screw, so it's my fault.
This was a good opportunity to learn that the limit screws are M4 with a 0.5mm thread. Not exactly something that you find at the hardware store.
I did try to raid one from an older Cyclone that I'd stripped some threads out of, only to find that someone had replaced the equivalent limit screw with a coarser threaded M4!
As an interim fix, I just threw on a different Cyclone while waiting for the penetrating oil to work its magic.
For reference, here's the original limit screw....
This seemed like a good time to tear things apart and clean them up.
While doing so, I noticed that pivot points on the parallelogram had brass inserts! Very nice!
The limit screws now have plenty of anti-seize goo on them, and should be good for another 30 years of abuse (unlike my knees, I'm sure).
Steve in Peoria
I did have an adjusting screw seize up in a SunTour Superbe Pro front derailleur and had a rough time getting it out. It ended up with a bit of mangling of the phillips head on the screw before getting serious about the penetrating oil and (eventually) some heat to break the aluminum body free of the steel screw.
In fairness, I've been using the derailleur for 34 years, and doubt that I've ever lubed the screw, so it's my fault.
This was a good opportunity to learn that the limit screws are M4 with a 0.5mm thread. Not exactly something that you find at the hardware store.
I did try to raid one from an older Cyclone that I'd stripped some threads out of, only to find that someone had replaced the equivalent limit screw with a coarser threaded M4!
As an interim fix, I just threw on a different Cyclone while waiting for the penetrating oil to work its magic.
For reference, here's the original limit screw....
This seemed like a good time to tear things apart and clean them up.
While doing so, I noticed that pivot points on the parallelogram had brass inserts! Very nice!
The limit screws now have plenty of anti-seize goo on them, and should be good for another 30 years of abuse (unlike my knees, I'm sure).
Steve in Peoria
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#7633
Overdoing projects
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Putting in some of the hard work today of routing the dynamo wiring through the frame. Soldered on the SON coaxial connectors and found a way to easily route the cables through the frame. It involves a stiff brake cable and about 5 cm of 4:1 heat shrink tubing with glue on the inside. It barely makes the cable thicker and as long as the brake cable came through the rest is going to be surprisingly easy.
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#7634
Bianchi Goddess
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Soldering shares certain fundamentals with brazing a frame together, so it sorta qualifies??
I'm an electronics guy, so it makes sense to me.
It also reminds me that I need to make time to tear my trusty Pioneer SX-880 apart and clean all of the pots and switches. Probably need to check the capacitors and replace anything that looks sketchy. I bought it new in the late 70's, and it would be nice to use it again.
... and I also need to do the same for the Yamaha receiver that I bought to replace the Pioneer. <..sigh..>
Honestly, mechanical switches and potentiometers are just trouble waiting to happen, but it does take time to happen.
Steve in Peoria
(I've got a nice Walkman that should get the belt replaced too)
I'm an electronics guy, so it makes sense to me.
It also reminds me that I need to make time to tear my trusty Pioneer SX-880 apart and clean all of the pots and switches. Probably need to check the capacitors and replace anything that looks sketchy. I bought it new in the late 70's, and it would be nice to use it again.
... and I also need to do the same for the Yamaha receiver that I bought to replace the Pioneer. <..sigh..>
Honestly, mechanical switches and potentiometers are just trouble waiting to happen, but it does take time to happen.
Steve in Peoria
(I've got a nice Walkman that should get the belt replaced too)
Pic courtsey of the interwebs
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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#7635
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First snag with the build: headset. I found my Stronglight P3 for the Superator yesterday. First problem is the crown race. Or the steerer tube, rather. There is that thicker section the crown race is supposed to sit on. With my other bicycles (Motobecane ones, at least), that section was thicker at the bottom, next to the fork crown, and thinner at the top to match the inside shape of the crown race. Which doesn't seem to be the case with this one and I'm guessing I will have to grab a metal file later and modify it. Because right now the crown race sits 2mm above the fork crown. That's something to look into when I get myself a length of PVC pipe, so no rush.
The second problem, as pictured below, is a bit more puzziling. The flat section of the steerer tube, which on steerer tubes I have on other bicycles goes down a couple of centimeters, on this one is about 8-10mm only. As a result, the serrated spacer sits well above the top race. I think with the bearing balls in and the crown race seated properly, I think the gap might be slightly smaller, but not by much.The locknut has a lip that steerer tube buts against, so that's fully on (ideally I'd like it to sit 0.5mm above the top edge of the steerer). This is a new one for me, I usually had the opposite problem: headset stack being too high for the steerer tube.
The gap itself is not a problem, I can always look for more round spacers, refelctor holders etc. Serrated side not being flush with the top race is a problem. This makes headset adjustments impossible. Does anyone know if it's fine for me to file down the steerer tube and extend the flat section? What would be the best method for that? Handheld file, rotary tool?
The second problem, as pictured below, is a bit more puzziling. The flat section of the steerer tube, which on steerer tubes I have on other bicycles goes down a couple of centimeters, on this one is about 8-10mm only. As a result, the serrated spacer sits well above the top race. I think with the bearing balls in and the crown race seated properly, I think the gap might be slightly smaller, but not by much.The locknut has a lip that steerer tube buts against, so that's fully on (ideally I'd like it to sit 0.5mm above the top edge of the steerer). This is a new one for me, I usually had the opposite problem: headset stack being too high for the steerer tube.
The gap itself is not a problem, I can always look for more round spacers, refelctor holders etc. Serrated side not being flush with the top race is a problem. This makes headset adjustments impossible. Does anyone know if it's fine for me to file down the steerer tube and extend the flat section? What would be the best method for that? Handheld file, rotary tool?
#7636
Bianchi Goddess
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First task of the day. Not only does the ironing board do double and triple duty but the bike stand pitches in too!
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#7637
aka Tom Reingold
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@IdahoBrett, you got the fork out with penetrating oil. Did you use any other tricks?
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#7638
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@IdahoBrett, you got the fork out with penetrating oil. Did you use any other tricks?
I tried hitting the expander bolt with a rubber dead blow hammer throughout. But it was a ball peen hammer that knocked the “nut” loose with a single rap when the dead blow had no effect. I then chucked the fork up in a vise, supported by a couple pieces of 2x4 with card board for scratch protection. The BB sat nicely on my workbench.
I used the bars for leverage and started a twisting motion back and forth. The stem almost gave a perceptible “click” when the disimilar metal corrosion bond broke free. From there it was about 90 seconds of twisting while pulling up to remove the stem.
If there was one trick it would have to be the wrench set up I used for the lock nut. A large adjustable/crescent isn’t precise enough of a fit. A 1 3/16” Bonney style wrench with a custom cheater bar is what I used. I did not want to slip and round the edges off. I’ve used this set up a time or two in the 3 decades of wrenching on stuff that flies 6 miles up in the sky.
(reassembly began yesterday)
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“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
Last edited by IdahoBrett; 03-24-24 at 07:25 AM. Reason: Wrench info
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#7639
Steel is real
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Preparing the spare parts list to be bought with new zipp quick releases, look delta pedals, probably another rare columbus genius frame at a good price if it is not sold
#7640
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Too too windy for riding so I spent most of the weekend building a trailer for my new to me Chester Yawl. The Yawl came on a double decker trailer and I’m using much of the upper deck for a bicycle trailer. Parts on hand don’t always work together as envisioned. Did a test ride with the lighter and shorter kayak—better to fail with a plastic boat. I should be able to make these wheelchair wheels from my Carry Freedom trailer work on this boat trailer. More tweaking to come. The Grand Jubile will do the hauling. The stock 32 in the back might not be enough with the 42. We’ll see.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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#7641
Learning To Fly
So after coming to my senses the 84 Stumpjumper is almost ready to roll. Just waiting on some new oversized brake cables and housings.
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#7642
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Too too windy for riding so I spent most of the weekend building a trailer for my new to me Chester Yawl. The Yawl came on a double decker trailer and I’m using much of the upper deck for a bicycle trailer. Parts on hand don’t always work together as envisioned. Did a test ride with the lighter and shorter kayak—better to fail with a plastic boat. I should be able to make these wheelchair wheels from my Carry Freedom trailer work on this boat trailer. More tweaking to come. The Grand Jubile will do the hauling. The stock 32 in the back might not be enough with the 42. We’ll see.
Today I had a novel idea: how about I actually measure the crown race ID and the steerer tube OD. The result? Well, the crown race ID is 26.5 and 26.4 (this crown race has a lip inside). Steerer tube section / shim the crown race goes on is 27.0mm. So it looks like some extra work will be needed, both to shave 0.5mm of that shim (or whatever it's called) and mirror the lip on the crown race. Then I think I'll grab the rotary tool to extend the flat section down the thread a bit and chase the threads with a spare French locknut and use reflector holder plus spacer to get the stack height right. At least that's the plan.
Speaking of plans, the Superator concept got modified today (again). I got Cyclone MK1 derailleurs on their way, but today I have also found a Huret Jubilee that seems to fit Campy dropouts. I tried to resist, I really did. I've got probably 20 derailleur sets I should get rid of. But then I looked at the Jubilee and it just looked sooo pretty. So. I've got Jubilee on the way. Since Superator is supposed to be the weight weenie, perhaps it's best if it gets the lightest vintage derailleur available. 50 grams lighter than the Superbe originally planned for it. Still need to find a front Jubilee and that probably won't be much lighter than Superbe FD. Shifters got changed to Simplex SLJ (5g lighter than Suntour Sprint ratcheting ones). Switching to Weinmann brakes shaves another 50g though. So whilst 100g is not that much, this might be of some use if I don't use a modern saddle.
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#7643
Cantilever believer
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I looked at the bars to see if it used Suntour Power Ratchet thumbies, but instead they're the bulky profile of Shimano shifters (OK for their time, but IMO not quite as nice as the Suntour version). But a glance at the rest of the bike reveals a deer head Deore group, so the shifters can be forgiven for being part of the set.
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
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#7644
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I looked at the bars to see if it used Suntour Power Ratchet thumbies, but instead they're the bulky profile of Shimano shifters (OK for their time, but IMO not quite as nice as the Suntour version). But a glance at the rest of the bike reveals a deer head Deore group, so the shifters can be forgiven for being part of the set.
#7645
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Sticks are the enemy of fenders. I was feeling pretty smug on my ride as yesterday's heavy rains left behind puddles and little streams crossing the trail. With fenders, I didn't get any spray. Nice. But - bam! A stick got caught up high enough in the fender to do some serious damage. I was able to ride home, going slow the whole way. It's not too far.
The fender is already off and I'm thinking about new fenders. My preference has been Planet Bike or Velo Orange. I think these SKS fenders are more for the road. On the trails that I ride, these have taken a beating. The rear suffered a stick attack about two years ago and was shortened to cutaway the damage part.
The break-away tabs didn't release. I don't think it would have saved the fender anyway.
The fender is already off and I'm thinking about new fenders. My preference has been Planet Bike or Velo Orange. I think these SKS fenders are more for the road. On the trails that I ride, these have taken a beating. The rear suffered a stick attack about two years ago and was shortened to cutaway the damage part.
The break-away tabs didn't release. I don't think it would have saved the fender anyway.
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#7646
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#7647
aka Tom Reingold
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@Velo Mule, that happened to me riding on a trail. It ruined a nice white Bluemels fender. They have been hard to get. It's sad.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#7648
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Nothing special. Just a liberal application of Kroil. About 12 hours upright in the stand. Followed by 12 hours upside down on the floor.
I tried hitting the expander bolt with a rubber dead blow hammer throughout. But it was a ball peen hammer that knocked the “nut” loose with a single rap when the dead blow had no effect. I then chucked the fork up in a vise, supported by a couple pieces of 2x4 with card board for scratch protection. The BB sat nicely on my workbench.
I used the bars for leverage and started a twisting motion back and forth. The stem almost gave a perceptible “click” when the disimilar metal corrosion bond broke free. From there it was about 90 seconds of twisting while pulling up to remove the stem.
If there was one trick it would have to be the wrench set up I used for the lock nut. A large adjustable/crescent isn’t precise enough of a fit. A 1 3/16” Bonney style wrench with a custom cheater bar is what I used. I did not want to slip and round the edges off. I’ve used this set up a time or two in the 3 decades of wrenching on stuff that flies 6 miles up in the sky.
(reassembly began yesterday)
I tried hitting the expander bolt with a rubber dead blow hammer throughout. But it was a ball peen hammer that knocked the “nut” loose with a single rap when the dead blow had no effect. I then chucked the fork up in a vise, supported by a couple pieces of 2x4 with card board for scratch protection. The BB sat nicely on my workbench.
I used the bars for leverage and started a twisting motion back and forth. The stem almost gave a perceptible “click” when the disimilar metal corrosion bond broke free. From there it was about 90 seconds of twisting while pulling up to remove the stem.
If there was one trick it would have to be the wrench set up I used for the lock nut. A large adjustable/crescent isn’t precise enough of a fit. A 1 3/16” Bonney style wrench with a custom cheater bar is what I used. I did not want to slip and round the edges off. I’ve used this set up a time or two in the 3 decades of wrenching on stuff that flies 6 miles up in the sky.
(reassembly began yesterday)
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from the net
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Soldering shares certain fundamentals with brazing a frame together, so it sorta qualifies??
I'm an electronics guy, so it makes sense to me.
It also reminds me that I need to make time to tear my trusty Pioneer SX-880 apart and clean all of the pots and switches. Probably need to check the capacitors and replace anything that looks sketchy. I bought it new in the late 70's, and it would be nice to use it again.
... and I also need to do the same for the Yamaha receiver that I bought to replace the Pioneer. <..sigh..>
Honestly, mechanical switches and potentiometers are just trouble waiting to happen, but it does take time to happen.
Steve in Peoria
(I've got a nice Walkman that should get the belt replaced too)
I'm an electronics guy, so it makes sense to me.
It also reminds me that I need to make time to tear my trusty Pioneer SX-880 apart and clean all of the pots and switches. Probably need to check the capacitors and replace anything that looks sketchy. I bought it new in the late 70's, and it would be nice to use it again.
... and I also need to do the same for the Yamaha receiver that I bought to replace the Pioneer. <..sigh..>
Honestly, mechanical switches and potentiometers are just trouble waiting to happen, but it does take time to happen.
Steve in Peoria
(I've got a nice Walkman that should get the belt replaced too)
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