I think I ride too much. too many worn out parts.
#1
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I think I ride too much. too many worn out parts.
Got over 9000 miles on my bulls crossover. about 1.5 years of riding. got great life out of the Schwalbe Marathon plus about 8000 0n the front I screwed the back up so I can't know how long that would have lasted. on the 5th chain and the shifting is getting a little clunky.one shifter cable cause there was no practical way to lube it so I replaced it. headset bearings were not sealed and after months of riding in the rain they were leaking rusted grease. rear wheel rim had cracked after 9000 miles shop said it was just normal wear and tear. but it was a cheap rim. I was hearting a clicking sound I could not find out what it was. Mechanic found it the pedals are all sloppy. well about 8000 miles on them rain and shine so they need rebuilt but that's only about 20.00. second set of hand grips just replaced those cant complain about that life. I ride every day ifI am not injured and there is no ice or snow on the ground. I got 156 miles this week and I got 6000 miles in a year.
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Saw your title and thought that is the nature of old age.
The good thing about wearing out parts is you get to upgrade to better ones.
On a bike at least...
The good thing about wearing out parts is you get to upgrade to better ones.
On a bike at least...
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Old age and muscle, tendon, bone wear, and strength decreases are all inevitable so ride nice bikes to minimize this and maximize the fun !
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#8
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Electric bikes eat consumables and components like mad. You're carrying more weight and speed, plus a mid-drive is putting way more wear on the geartrain. My Gen 3 Bosch stuff can wear through a new cassette and chain before it hits 800 km because of the small drive pinion and the extra tension and bending arc it puts the chain through.
It's just part of the cost of running one. Way cheaper than a car, but you gotta keep it fed with lots of tires, chains, gears, brake pads, rotors...
It's just part of the cost of running one. Way cheaper than a car, but you gotta keep it fed with lots of tires, chains, gears, brake pads, rotors...
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Electric bikes eat consumables and components like mad. You're carrying more weight and speed, plus a mid-drive is putting way more wear on the geartrain. My Gen 3 Bosch stuff can wear through a new cassette and chain before it hits 800 km because of the small drive pinion and the extra tension and bending arc it puts the chain through.
It's just part of the cost of running one. Way cheaper than a car, but you gotta keep it fed with lots of tires, chains, gears, brake pads, rotors...
It's just part of the cost of running one. Way cheaper than a car, but you gotta keep it fed with lots of tires, chains, gears, brake pads, rotors...
#10
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My conditions are close to worst-case, though; extremely steep roads and trails in a rainy area that frequently salts the roads, carrying heavy loads (often over 100 kg) on a big cargo bike, plus I'm close to 100 kg myself and I ride hard at max boost on the strongest motor Bosch makes. So putting that kind of tension through a drivetrain when there's constant salt and grit present really shortens component life. If I was riding an unloaded bike in a flat dry area, I'm sure I'd see 5-10X the drivetrain life.
#11
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Ah wait, it's Gen 1 and Gen 4 that use the 1:1 ratio. Regardless, load and riding conditions/style play a huge factor.
Same deal with brake pads; I get under 1000 km from a full set of Magura quad-piston ones because hard braking with well over 200 kg of rolling weight from high speeds puts huge loads on them. And it's well worth it.
Same deal with brake pads; I get under 1000 km from a full set of Magura quad-piston ones because hard braking with well over 200 kg of rolling weight from high speeds puts huge loads on them. And it's well worth it.
Last edited by hydrocarbon; 06-25-21 at 01:07 AM.
#12
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Yeah it depends a lot on riding conditions and style, plus the Gen 2 motor uses a 1:1 drive which is way easier on drivetrains, vs. the Gen 3 which has a 2.5:1 step-up gear, so it's spinning a tiny pinion (I run 17T and 20T on my two G3s).
My conditions are close to worst-case, though; extremely steep roads and trails in a rainy area that frequently salts the roads, carrying heavy loads (often over 100 kg) on a big cargo bike, plus I'm close to 100 kg myself and I ride hard at max boost on the strongest motor Bosch makes. So putting that kind of tension through a drivetrain when there's constant salt and grit present really shortens component life. If I was riding an unloaded bike in a flat dry area, I'm sure I'd see 5-10X the drivetrain life.
My conditions are close to worst-case, though; extremely steep roads and trails in a rainy area that frequently salts the roads, carrying heavy loads (often over 100 kg) on a big cargo bike, plus I'm close to 100 kg myself and I ride hard at max boost on the strongest motor Bosch makes. So putting that kind of tension through a drivetrain when there's constant salt and grit present really shortens component life. If I was riding an unloaded bike in a flat dry area, I'm sure I'd see 5-10X the drivetrain life.
Now I need tp find pants that wear better found some but they had reinforced knees and they rubbed my knees raw.
#13
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With the cargo bike on these hills, a lot of the riding is full-assist climbing or full-brake descending. It's a lot to put a chain through.
For the pant thing, maybe some separate knee guards would work well? I dunno, fit can be really tricky and a lot of mountain bike clothing has tough stitching on heavy-duty nylon so there can be a lot of sawing. Could also try wearing some thin roadie knee warmers underneath the reinforced stuff to give some relief from the cheese-grater effect.