ClydeClydeson

There are too many bikes that are built to accept derailleurs that trying to convert a 'Dutch Bike' to use a derailleur is a terrible waste of time and effort. Furthermore, using a derailleur and multiple rear cogs will require the chain case to be removed, which removes a big part of what makes Dutch Bikes so practical. You will also likely have to re-space the frame to fit a wider hub with multiple cogs.

Also, your front chainwheel is likely made for 1/8" chains which don't work well with derailleurs, and derailleur chains (3/32") don't work well with chainwheels made for 1/8" chains.

Lastly, your rear brake is built into the hub, so you would need to figure out another way to affix a rear brake. Most hubs designed for multi-cog drivetrains are not equipped with a drum brake, and coaster brakes do not work with derailleurs.

The moral of my story is: Sell the Dutch bike and get a bike deigned for use with a derailleur.

79pmooney

How hard is it to pull the rear wheel to repair a flat? It looks like you pull wheel and hanger with derailleur off the track end, then have to un-thread the hub nut to separate the hanger, derailleur and chain from the axle. I'm guessing there's a trick but it looks to me like a roadside juggling act.

Dylansbob 

If you've ever dealt with an old Klein, it's about the same.

Not really that big of pain in the ass (unless you've also got a rapidrise rd on it), just more of a hassle than we've become accustomed to. Absolute worst case scenario, you pull the QR and let the derailleur hang.

oxfords1

I found this YouTube video. It's pretty interesting, his rear dropouts are exactly like mine

oxfords1

lol clyde on your comment to sell it. I have two mixtes one with 21 speeds( it'll be built next week. I have the frame and component just waiting on the shop) and another with a rear hub 7 speeds. I love this British bicycle it's smooth as silk and I like riding it short distances, no more than 10 miles. It's not about the gears it's about taking some weight off it. I'm in my cough cough early 60's and it's getting hard to lift that ton of bricks but I've done pretty good so far with the stuff I took off it, I made it into a 35 pound bicycle from 44 pounds, and it's much more manageable. I might just end up putting a three speed hub on it that'll bring it down to a 33 pound and call it a day. I know I can't make an elephant into a cheetah but what I've done so far has helped a lot. I appreciate all the input the pro and the cons it helps me have all the information to make a well thought out decision.

alo

The downside with this installation is, you will have to remove the derailleur every time you remove the back wheel. You may or may not be concerned about that.

You could weld a hanger to the frame, and avoid this. Another option is to make your own hanger which bolts to the frame, but does not have to be removed when you remove the back wheel.

The best brakes are disk brakes. You could also look at installing them.

alo

It is interesting, you say you are doing this to reduce the weight of the bike. Most likely a heavier bike is stronger. I like strong bikes. I would keep it that way.

cudak888 

I'm quite impressed to see that he did every last bit of that correctly - frame and dropout alignment and all.

It's possible, but I think you'll find that by removing the IGH, you'll wind up removing a lot of what makes a Pashley Roadster (or for that matter, Raleigh DL-1) feel the way they feel. I still maintain that a Nexus 8-speed hub is a much better way to lighten it up and gain a number of excellent low gear ratios.

Also keep in mind that you'll pay quite a bit to do the derailer conversion. Either in shop labor (not to mention you'll have to hope they know enough about steel frames not to screw it up), or the cost of the frame gauge (cheap) and the dropout alignment tools (not) to do it right.

Also, we haven't discussed your crankset either - you'll have to replace that with one that'll accommodate the narrower derailer chain. Speaking of which, is your Pashley Roadster old enough that it still has cottered steel cranks? If so, upgrading to the current aluminum cranks and a square taper BB ought to save you even more weight.

-Kurt

oxfords1

Yes I'm leaning more towards not doing the derailleur conversion, after reading everything and either buying a lighter hub or going down to a three speed rub with the roller brake. I've located a three speed with roller brake that would a significant amount of weight off the back. It does take me down to a three speed but I just ride around flat areas with her so it's no big deal. I'm looking into the 8 speeds you suggest and the first one I looked at with a roller brake takes off the 2 pounds. So I'm going with that option. Thanks so much, and YES on the steel cranks, I did bring that up with a bike shop guy who was going to look at getting aluminum ones for me, but after two weeks he did nothing so I'm going to look for them myself. thanks so much for your input

cudak888 

I'd go for a well-priced Nexus 8 off eBay and bite the bullet for spoke + lacing cost before settling for the Nexus 3. You'll adore the lower gear ratios.

I'd ask Pashley what the BB length is on the current Roadster and if they have a model for the crank. Chances are you won't be able to get exactly the right crank, but the chainline data will help determine what bottom bracket will be required to ensure the crank won't rub on the chaincase.

This one isn't particularly nice, but it's affordable and should clear both the chaincase and pie plate. Your Pashley will probably have a 44t or 46t:
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/mijnen-...et/137491687/p

-Kurt

oxfords1

thanks cudak888, I appreciate the extra time you've taken to help out as well as all others on this forum. I'm definitely going with the nexus inter 8. I have a couple of models already that I'm looking to buy. I have one more question if you don't mind answering. What's the difference between a roller brake and a drum brake on the hubs. The one the Pash has now is a drum brake, the new shimano would have a roller brake. I'll email pashley as suggested, they're pretty good at answering the first question but horrible at follow ups. so I should get an answer about the cranks and such.

cudak888 

The roller is basically a metal-to-metal friction drum brake loaded with a lot of grease to ensure it runs smoothly: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rollerbrakes.html

They feel a bit different than drums, but they fit onto the frame similarly. Not all have as large a heat dissipation disc as on this one.



The only thing you'll really want to be sure of (not that this can't be worked around, but if it fits directly, even bette) is that the roller brake's torque arm isn't shorter or longer than the slot on the frame to accept its fixing bolt.

-Kurt

oxfords1

sorry I had not responded to your last, a lot of stuff was keeping me busy. thanks kurt, when I saw pictures of the one with roller brakes I didn't see the little arm like the one mine has so I was concerned how that would work.

I just had my soma built finally (waited 4 weeks for the bike shop just to be told on my day of the appt that they were backed up and didn't know when they could get to it). I found a mobile bike builder and he came right out built it for me at a very reasonable price and that meticulous way of doing things right and focused on just that one thing paid off.

how to buy the one for the Pashley and calling this guy again to put it on. things are moving along.

cudak888 

Fantastic. If you want, post a photo of the parts you have for the Pashley so far; that'll make sure everything is on hand for the conversion. Are you having him relace the wheels, or will there be a new wheel built?

-Kurt